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First door done, four to go.

The weathering is a nice effect.

You seem to be layering your paint on way too thick. I can see pools of blue paint from the small image alone. Thin down your paints and work in multiple layers.

Additionally, the red is noticeably patchy. Perhaps an extra layer of red paint would help that significantly.

Yeah, thin your paint a little. You need more coats but it looks better!!

Also, the weathering is good, but make it MUCH heavier towards the bottom, where it has streaked through the atmosphere, burning the paint off as it goes.

The bare metal effect looks good. Adding some black around the edges of the bare bits might help. GW's Rhino guide says how to do that.
I tried spreading various washes up the doors to to give it the appearance of re-entry scorch marks. It didn't work properly, but someone might be able to suggest how to make that work.

As mentioned, the paint is a bit thick. Mine came out like that, until I got an airbrush. I use that for all vehicle panels now.

I've got a post or two on my blog that might help.
Like the others mentioned, getting your paint smooth will help tremendously in all of the additional effects you add to the model in the later stages.
Here are a few tips for painting vehicles without an airbrush that might help get that "smooth" finish
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/01/7-tips-for-painting-vehicles-without.html

Painting hazard stripes on drop pod doors.
While the colors are not important here, the technique for getting accurate stripes is.
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2009/12/painting-hazard-stripes-on-drop-pod.html

Painting a drop pod Part 1 and Part 2
Part 1 http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/05/painting-drop-pod-in-sub-assemblies-pt1.html
Part 2 http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/05/painting-drop-pod-in-sub-assemblies-pt2.html

A look at re-entry weathering on a drop pod
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2009/12/forge-world-drop-pod-finished.html

Maybe dry brush the blue next time, might make it smoother then it currently is.

Disagree with any drybrushing. Unless you want it to look chalky/powdery, drybrushing is a bad idea.
Drybrushing only works well on natural formations (rocks, sand, etc) or weathering (scratches, etc).

Sorry Absolutionis, you are incorrect. Drybrushing is a technique that can be used for a great many things. If done correctly it should not look chalky at all. Here is an example:





Like any other technique, it takes practice to get it to look decent.

Whenever your painting red over black you need to use many coats, the stuff just does not cover. However, if you can get your hands on some Foundation paints Mechinite Red, this stuff works wonders for a base coat. It really cuts down on the number of coats that you need.

All the red (hell all the colors) on this model was painted over black primer using the foundation paints. It is so very important to get that first smooth coat down.