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Made in us
Virulent Space Marine dedicated to Nurgle





Portland, OR

Hey everyone, the latest video has been put up. Hope you enjoy it!




Don't forget to rate and comment!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/04 06:27:58


 
   
Made in ca
Been Around the Block




All your videos have been really helpful for me.

Thanks a bunch.
   
Made in us
Virulent Space Marine dedicated to Nurgle





Portland, OR

I'm glad you've found them to be helpful!

Anything in particular you'd like to see me do a tutorial of? It'll take a while as I've got about twenty more ready to be filmed but if it's close to something I'm already doing I can see about adding it in.
   
Made in us
War Walker Pilot with Withering Fire





USA - Salem, OR

I've found "juicing" to be a useful technique in blending a transition of two colors together as well, such as blending the color transitions of Eldar gems. One or two passes with different colors can make it easy to blend and avoid building up excess paint.

Past armies 4500 pts, 4000 pts 2000 pts
current armies Space Marines 4000 pts, Eldar 3000 pts
Successful Trades: 4
Swap Shop - CSM/Demons for sale 
   
Made in gb
Emboldened Warlock




Seen this last night, very very helpful video, really enjoyed it.

I've tried juicing / glazing/ translucent layering before and always end up with a chalky finish and tide marks, any tips on avoid this?
   
Made in no
Nervous Karist Novitiate





Best videos I've seen for a beginner like me
   
Made in ph
Druid Warder





gilljoy wrote:Seen this last night, very very helpful video, really enjoyed it.

I've tried juicing / glazing/ translucent layering before and always end up with a chalky finish and tide marks, any tips on avoid this?


If i can answer this question:

tidemarks mean that youre loading your brush with too much paint. In the video you can see that UselesswizarD uses a paper towel to drain his brush of excess paint. You should generally have enough paint in your brush that when you paint a short line (say 1/3 of an inch or so) the start of the line is already beginning to dry.

as for the chalky finish, this usually means a couple of things:

1. Youre overdiluting your paint. use less water and see how it goes
2. Some paints (usually those with a lot of white pigment) just gets chalky. when this happens its best to "juice to shadow" instead

Hey, I just met you,
and this is crazy,
but I'm a demon,
possess you, maybe?
 
   
Made in us
Boosting Space Marine Biker





Decatur, IL

Another great video. Some of the best videos for beginners I think. Looking forward to your next one.

 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




this is maybe a good idea if you're spending 50 hours on a display model.

blood red is already a translucent semi transparent color. diluting it this much is going to be a pretty big waste of time for most people. adding a bit of water to the blood red is usually good enough.

unless like i said you're entering golden demon or something. you would also need to "juice" (glaze) with a hell of a lot more colors than just blood red to get your model up to display standard.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/04/29 06:57:52


 
   
Made in gb
Dipping With Wood Stain






England

kb305 wrote:this is maybe a good idea if you're spending 50 hours on a display model.

blood red is already a translucent semi transparent color. diluting it this much is going to be a pretty big waste of time for most people. adding a bit of water to the blood red is usually good enough.

unless like i said you're entering golden demon or something. you would also need to "juice" (glaze) with a hell of a lot more colors than just blood red to get your model up to display standard.


I think you may have missed the point of this tutorial. It was simply to show how the technique is done, to help people who want to use the technique and aren't sure how it works or how to do it. This is a fantastic technique which UselesswizarD's done a good job of showing, it's up to the individual painter to decide whether it is worth it to use it or not. I know I prefer it to wet-blending as it allows me a lot more control over the final look. While I would use less paint, so that the glazing dries almost instantly with each coat, and would have moved the glazing further up more quickly than in the tutorial (for a sharper gradient), that is ultimately down to personal preference and the effect the painter is trying to achieve.

You're quite right that it isn't really suitable for rank and file miniatures, unless you're insane and like to paint them to a display standard, however you really don't need to be aiming for a Golden Demon award to use more advanced techniques like this, wet-blending and so on. A lot of people like to paint their character models up to high tabletop/display standard.

And yes, the final effect on the marine could have been improved with another section on the top part using something like Blazing Orange. However, the tutorial is not a painting tutorial for a Space Marine, so that doesn't matter. What matters if is he successfully got the technique across, which I believe he did.



DR:80+S+GM++B+I++Pw40k07#-D+A+/mWD300R+T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in us
War Walker Pilot with Withering Fire





USA - Salem, OR

I certainly benefited from this tutorial, as I've used layers of washes to build up colors for highlights slowly (and use the transparency to blend), but I never realized the "juicing" effect of depositing more liquid & pigment where you end the stroke. Haven't tried it yet, but certainly will when I have the opportunity!

Past armies 4500 pts, 4000 pts 2000 pts
current armies Space Marines 4000 pts, Eldar 3000 pts
Successful Trades: 4
Swap Shop - CSM/Demons for sale 
   
Made in fr
Violent Enforcer







Very nice and thorough video. I subscribed to your channel and
I'm going to have a look around when I get a chance!
   
 
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