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Ok. So I just finished quikshading 16 Ultramarine Tact squad and 10 Ultramarine Assualt Termies and I'm not very happy with the finish so far. I followed the dirictions on the tin and used the dunk method. I properly dried them off by violently flingly my models while they are held by my pliers hoping that the plastic wont crack from the amount of force i needed to apply to get what i thought was enough off to not leave a thick goopy finish. Its to hard at this point to wipe it off and i stupidly didnt read any of the post about this stuff and how theres much more to it than what they advertise and show you. Ill put some pics up once they are done drying for 24hrs....maybe they wont look as bad after i spray them with a matt finish. I dont even think an Iron Warriors slave could clean so much gore off the armour for it to shine like my models do now even if they were promised an eternity of pure dark pleasures in the service of chaos.

PS...I was using Army Painter Quikshade

ok so here are the pictures of the models 24hours after applying the quikshade......let me know what everyone thinks if i should strip them all down and start from scratch or if they look ok....i have the matt finish to spray them with still so i will post those pics up soon.

Try applying a Matte finish to a Tactical Marine first. If that doesen't work, you can strip the rest easily. Are you using quickshade by Army Painter or Minwax? People have had different experiences with both.For best results, I suggest you use Testor's Dull Coat.


From what I've read and seen, the dipping technique works best on models like skeletons and Tyranid armies. I would bet my left testicle that it would make a kick ass Nurgle army as well.

Wash wise, I'm more of a paint on person

Dunking I think is mainly for mass models like skaven or skeletons. Other models could use a bit more time

evilghost555 wrote:Ok. So I just finished quikshading 16 Ultramarine Tact squad and 10 Ultramarine Assualt Termies and I'm not very happy with the finish so far. I followed the dirictions on the tin and used the dunk method. I properly dried them off by violently flingly my models while they are held by my pliers hoping that the plastic wont crack from the amount of force i needed to apply to get what i thought was enough off to not leave a thick goopy finish. Its to hard at this point to wipe it off and i stupidly didnt read any of the post about this stuff and how theres much more to it than what they advertise and show you. Ill put some pics up once they are done drying for 24hrs....maybe they wont look as bad after i spray them with a matt finish. I dont even think an Iron Warriors slave could clean so much gore off the armour for it to shine like my models do now even if they were promised an eternity of pure dark pleasures in the service of chaos.

spin dry with a power drill

Yea, get some 1/32 or slightly thinner metal rod, bend one end to a circle, put in a drill and use large paper clip to hold the base onto the wire.

If it's just how shiny they are you have nothing to worry about. Get a can of "Testors Dullcote" spray can and put a few light coats onto the model to get rid of any shine (reapply gloss with a brush if you want shiny parts). You can also get the dullcote in paint bottles and brush it on, just keep in mind you only need a little bit and too much turns the surface white.

I don't have any experience with dipping, but my guess would be, like washes, it's best suited to models with a lot details and sharp curvature changes so it can settle in the crevices (tyranids, lizardmen, imperial guard, orks, etc) rather than models with lots of flat spots or gently curving surfaces where it can't naturally go into the spots that need shading (things like marines).

When applying Quick shade dip to models i use a cheep brush to put it on... by cheep i mean i picked up a pack of 100 at wal mart for like 2 bucks.

by using a brush you

1. use less of the expensive can of magic
2. can apply it lighter or heavier wherever you wish
3. can easily clean up the pools
4. have tons more controll

linky to my death guard pics.... it was all done with using a brush to put the quick shade on.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-4455-14450_Chaos%3A%20Death%20Guard.html

I apply dip with a brush.

Actually dunking is wasteful and won't get you the results you want.
Unless you want people to think a pre-schooler painted them with a trowel.

The secret to the dunk method is after flicking them, let them sit for about 3 - 4 minutes. Then take a cheap brush, and remove any excess dip from recesses, etc.

Alternatively you can paint it on as well. Always requires matte varnish after they have dried to look normal again.

I've never used the army painter dip though. Always used minwax polyshades antique walnut. Done right it looks ok. I did a camo marine army completely out of assault on black reach models awhile back. Not bad for a weeks work, and less than $100 worth of marines for 2000pts.

+1 for Minwax Walnut. I dipped my whole TK army including the chariots and giants and got great results. A few points:
- Use an old brush to remove excess dip after a few minutes.
- STIR your dip thoroughly before use. Do not shake, causes air bubbles.
- Even after dipping, you still have a lot of highlighting and detail work to do, if you want the figures to look their best.
- Storing your dip in an airtight container will preserve it almost indefinately. I put 2 1-quart cans of Minwax water based walnut woodstain into a tall tupperware container shaped roughly like a cereal box. That was 6 years ago and its still ready to go after a ten minute stir session. Dipping an army doesn't use up much dip at all.

For the blue you're using I would try the dark-shade, I think that will probably work for what you're expecting.

As mentioned above, you have to mix the shade like CRAZY. It looks like it's a bit thin to me.,

Also, dipping then brushing off will give you better results than flicking, just use a large brush (the size of the Citadel large dry brush) but just buy a cheapo from the art store (don't cheap out too much cause a really cheap brush will lose bristles onto the models).

Brushing off will save your arms for sure, and you can control where it pools etc.