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Hi,

As stated previously i wanted to have a crack at a Flesh Tearer and finally get some exposure to painting brighter colours as thus far i have only been painting black templars.

It took me quite some time to finish this model as i had a 6 week trip to Europe in the middle.
Overall i am happy with the result and the experience was fulfilling as i got the chance to try my hand at dry-brushing & i also think i managed to pay more attention to my highlighting.

Have a look and let me know what you think and how you think i could improve.

I have a new pet hate now! Transfers.... transfers... transfers, transfers......
I hate how the film curls in on its self if you leave it exposed for more than three seconds
I hate how the transfer moves on the surface right when you have it just right
I hate the length of time they take to dry on
& I hate trying to get them to hug curved surfaces

so if you notice - yes i am aware my transfer jobs absolutely suck!
I am definitely going to use some gloss varnish & medium next time.

Overall, I think it looks pretty good.

A couple of things that might help. For the transfers, use a gloss coat on the pads or anywhere you want to put transfers. Then add the transfer with micro-sol and micro-set (they basically allow it to conform to rounded areas, and shrink the transfer to fit). Then use a dullcoat or flat coat to take the shine off. This blends it all into the pad and makes it look painted on.

Right now the black looks weathered and worn. If that's the look you're going for, then nothing else needs to be done. If you want it darker, another wash or two of badab black would darken the overall look while still allowing your highlight through. Again, it ties the drybrushing and highlights together, but may end up looking too subtle.

A small nitpick, the second photo down, left arm, it looks like the red didn't completely cover the arm on the forearm.

When I did my last bunch of Flesh Tearers, I used GW black primer (thin) followed by Army Painter Red. This gave a nice deep red, with shadowed recesses. I then built up the red a little bit brighter. Saved a lot of time, and with washes, really made the crevices dark. Another batch I started just with Army Painter Red, and hand brushed the black areas on pads, helmet, etc. Also very easy to do while using washes to create shadows.

Looks pretty nice, good job. Judging from the lack of shiny on the model, and the shiny around the transfer, I assume you didn't use any varnish?

Not only will varnish protect the model, it will also help a lot with the transfers. You can always try it on a very plainly painted model first to try it out. Paint the entire model with a gloss varnish (I like Glosscoate from Testors, a spray), it will make th entire model shiny, but also very smooth. When you apply your transfers they will slide on the model much easier. After making sure they are dry (I wait a day) hit the entire model with a matt varnish. It will take the shine of the model again, and it will also get rid of the shiny area around the transfers.

thanks for the feedback guys.
I put some of your advice into practice and posted the results here - http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/477944.page#4796737