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So, I recently had a thread about coloring and such for my Tau. One of the nice people on there said that one of the color schemes I came up with (All black with just some pink highlights) looked too 'Raver-ish'. He might have been saying it as a negative...but I LOVE Raver styles - bright colors, uniqueness, etc...

So how would someone go about painting a model with a 'Raver' style - bright, without being garish; 'energetic', and unique...

I am looking for things like how would you layer, highlight, color selections, etc....

Sorry - kinna new and want to see how to do this....I want bright and shiny Tau....to throw them off with the happy colors on the field of BATTLE!!!!

As always, thanks for your time...

~J~

The best advice I can give you is to use google images of what you want it to look like, Keep it open and in front of you as you paint. It will give you a good perspective and you can always hold up your models to the screen and compare how its coming along to what your ultimate goal is.

I would just paint colors in the cracks on the armor, and in between the plates. I would start off with a dark color, and then progress to a very light version of that color, ending in white. This would make it look like there are glow lights or something under the armor. The top armor plates would be painted a color that really contrasts with the lights, like black, dark blue, or dark purple. i wouldnt do too many highlights on this part. And that is basically it. If i wanted to make an army like this, I might paint the glow lights of the different squads different colors, but keep the top armor the same. It would still probably look more cohesive if the whole army was the same color though. I think this idea would look really good with a dark green blue armor with light green glowing parts. Good luck

Neon paint, you would have to carry a black light though...it would be glorious.

Raver style is extremely garish... Like garish defines raver style completely and I'm not saying this from observation... I second the neon paint and black light for "raver style".

 vir6 wrote:
Neon paint, you would have to carry a black light though...it would be glorious.

^---THIS! OH JELLS YES THIS! More realistically, like visor ports would be source lighting effect reds, blues, greens, purples etc. Larger vision ports like on vehicles would have one color on one side(or top or bottom) and another color on the other to look like there was a party with flashing lights inside. Lots of source lighting. Ask around about how you could do high gloss over the colors in the armor 'cracks' and have the armor be flat tone black with source lighting. Also on vehicle armor it should look like there' are blips of light travelling down through the 'cracks' with several colors traversing the hull every which way. And lots more source lighting. With neon paint and black lights.

So, after some investigating...I found a guy who did cyberpunk necrons...that had blacklight reactive paint!!!..

Would anyone see a painting problem with using paint like these:
http://www.blacklight.com/items/WF161IND

To paint the coloring/designs on them? 6oz is probably WAY more than I will need and I am still looking for a reasonably priced one...

Love the idea about the blips in the cracks of the vehicles - I never thought of that. The good thing is that my FLAGS tere is a TON of people, some close to Golden Deamon quality painters who are always willing to help...

As always, thanks for your time...

~J~

Vallejo do a couple of fluorescent colours and I'm pretty sure you could get some fluo pigments that you could mix with their glaze medium for other colours.

I'm a big fan of Fluorescent paints (UV Reactive)
Take a look at my Tyranids folder in my gallery, see what I mean.

What I would do is what Color Sgt. Kell said. Bring fluorescent colors for your cracks and edges, and a darker, normal version of the same color as your normal surfaces.

Prime white, Basecoat white. Go through and airbrush or paintbrush your fluorescents wherever you want them. Good, now go through with your normal color and get all your normal surfaces, taking care not to paint into your cracks.

This leaves the fluorescent showing in the cracks, and normal on the flat surfaces. Normal acrylic paint is non-reactive to UV, and the fluorescent is so faint (needs a few coats to get to full strength) that covering it near the edges won't be any issue.

While I'm at it:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=spectra+tex+fluorescent
Big bottles, small bottles, all fluorescent, airbrushable or paintbrushable, no thinning required for either.

And to make 'em "Glow on the Go:"
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_1?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Abattery+blacklight&keywords=battery+blacklight&ie=UTF8&qid=1362059122

I plan to eventually convert a spare room to a gaming room, with a table, and a 4' ceiling ballast with black light bulbs in it for my nids WITH CUSTOM NIDDY TERRAIN THAT GLOWS TOO!

Sorry, got excited...

Fenrir! You found the BEST paints! OMG! Right price too! And Black lights!

Good thing you got a good FLGS. Many have fantastic painters who come in and sit around the tables and paint for a while and generally be chill bros, and many are too small to have the space/availability to support them sadly. I totally wish I could be there to help bring this project together. I could use some painting practice anyway. The paint crew at our FLGS is such a tight knit group of friends that are always so deep in their work that they seem a little unapproachable y'know?

[quote=fenrir1997 510677 5336527 c9736dfa86968960afa6361ba91f79af.pngPrime white, Basecoat white. Go through and airbrush or paintbrush your fluorescents wherever you want them. Good, now go through with your normal color and get all your normal surfaces, taking care not to paint into your cracks.

This leaves the fluorescent showing in the cracks, and normal on the flat surfaces. Normal acrylic paint is non-reactive to UV, and the fluorescent is so faint (needs a few coats to get to full strength) that covering it near the edges won't be any issue.

I plan to eventually convert a spare room to a gaming room, with a table, and a 4' ceiling ballast with black light bulbs in it for my nids WITH CUSTOM NIDDY TERRAIN THAT GLOWS TOO! .

Amaraxis wrote:
Also, thought you might like to see this - I saw this, and while a bit spendy, would make a FANTASTIC addition to a centerpiece terrain to help light up the models
http://www.carid.com/universal-led-lights/plasmaglow-led-lighting-860478.html?CAWELAID=1764755540&nid=PLA&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CP6etPDH2bUCFaI-MgodQzoAHQ

Thank you JESUS!

Awesome has been achieved. Also, take some translucent multicolored olive spears and make thruster exhaust with them! Did that with sword shaped ones on mine. Have to superglue them on after painting and depending on how you make 'em they can be pretty fragile or solid as hell. Right XV-85 is fragile, Left XV-25 is solid. Sorry bout quality, cant really see them but you get the Idea.

From what I can see, not bad. See if you can take a sharper photo and I can comment more

1. Paint each model to look as naked as possible or green stuff on those pants with the giant leg openings.
2. Slap on a gloss coat to make them look as sweaty as possible.
3. Open up a few glow sticks and spray that all over the models.
4. Festival mud weathering powder
5. Glitter

Your bases could be done up to look like mud with dozens of tiny plastic bottles in the mud.

Oh and black lights in the vehicles. Strobe black lights. If you're doing Space Marines, your Land Raider could be your 'Ace of Bass' and you could drop a speaker and MP3 player in there.

Alternatively, instead of big pants and glow sticks, how about tie-dye and patchouli oil - now they're Woodstock attendants instead of Ravers.

Pretty sweet, right?

Jawn is a new hero. He knows Ace of Bass!

"I saw the sii-ign, and it and it opened up my eyes I saw the sign!"

okay what if you didn't do it with tau, but did it with necrons and swapped out their little green thingies with blacklights? obviously the amount of effort wouldn't be worth it on infantry models, but what about tanks or HQs, i think that could look incredible. (you could use a watch battery in the base to power it, just take out the battery when you didn't want it on, an on/off switch would require more effort. also you'd have to find a way to make the wires look good but i'm sure you could do it)