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First post ever here so if this has been covered already, sorry. I just bought a new Warhound from Forgeworld. What kind of issues am I looking at having when it arrives? Its the first time I have ever put something that big together so I just want to be prepared. Thanks for any help and advice.

Probably better in here...

And... good luck!

Decide what pose you want first, look up some of the blogs online because the forgeworld instructions are a joke.

Dry fit dry fit dry fit EVERYTHING before you glue...and if you don't already have a pinvice or dremel, get one. You need to pin a lot of the parts, especially in the feet.

I also recommend basing the feet regardless of your pose, for added stability. Glueing two or three cd's together and then onto the feet works well.

I would also say that you should make sure you have green stuff, two part epoxy, and super glue...the epoxy works great for making a super strong bond while the super glue holds the two pieces together in the short term.

Also paint the thing as you go. If you try to fully assemble it and then paint, it will be a nightmare. This especially includes the interiors before gluing any of them together, and also the hips/legs section.

Buy some magnets and use them, unless you have some other method planned for being able to replace weapon arms and the torso

Hey there!

I recently completed building a Warhound. It's a great model that was a lot of fun to make but not without it challenges.

First of all it's a big kit with a lot of bits so organisation is key. I used some zip bags to place pieces into groups like right leg, head and so on.

Clean up was a major issue. took a couple of days to remove excess resin, mould lines and swarf. Honestly though the more time spent on this the easier life is later.

Dry fit pieces togther to look for distotions caused by cooling. These can the be corrected by bathing the pieces in hot water and re shaping. I also found a little carving and filing was needed here and there.

Wash all the parts in warm soapy water to remove the mould release agent. This will help the glue/ paint to adhere later.

Planning the stance and positioning of the titan is important. the legs are made from alot of individual bits and finding a pose that looks good but alows the titan to stand balanced is a little tricky.

I constructed to torso, head and legs seperatly and brought them together when the glues on each assembly had completely set.

To glue the model I found super glue was a little lacking in strength so I went for a two part epoxy with a 5 minute setting time. enough to have a little play on position but fast enough to prevent sagging when left to set. I'd advise use of clamps and tape to hold pieces together while setting.

Take your time on it and is should be a relativly straight forward and fun project.

I'll try and get som wip pics when i'm not at work.

Thanks guys. Anything else you can think of would be great. I've built models and 40K pieces for a long time. But never anything like this.

Just unboxed my warhound and after having a look through the box, I 100% agree with everything Atriedes said. Be sure you are ready for a lot of meticulous work and please share some wip pics as I will try to do as well.

I built mine in 3 sections

- Main Body
- Legs/waist
- Weps

Dry fitting and then dry fitting with blu tack and pins really helped when I did mine. Spend alot of time cleaning it and then wash it really good before you assemble and spray.

I've got the Chaos one and I found it easier to paint the inside before assembling the body

Some pics HTH!




















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BTW: Paint the legs with the pistons OFF!!! makes life so much easier..... don't learn the hard way like me

I'll do my best to put WIP pics up as I go. It has to arrive first. I just noticed the typo... Forgeworld. Thanks for the suggestions. At least I have a better idea on what I need so I can get supplies to start on it straight away.

I believe i have heard glorious things about JB Weld.

also; here's a friendly video from BTP

Well I'm just waiting on magnets for this beast now. As far as the final assembly goes it should be easy. I will do any touch ups and adjustments hen I do final fit for it. Hopefully I can have pictures here soon.

Having gone through the agony of a Warhound and a Reaver myself I'll say the following:

1: Dry fit everything. If at any point you're unsure about a fit, you go back and check it regardless of what piece it is or how long it's taken you so far.

2: Be absolutely positive on how the legs are positioned. Not only do you need it to balance well, but also to look like a natural pose, not too static.

3: Take your time painting this thing. I can't stress this enough, and I know about this as I'm currently stripping both mine down and starting over.

Haven't done a Warhound, but I've done a lot of other FW stuff.

1) As everyone else has said, dry fit everything. FW kits are notorious for badly fitting parts, you will certainly have to do a lot of straightening parts in hot water and may have to do some green stuffing/plasticard bits/etc. You need to find these problems before you start assembling anything. Don't glue a single piece without carefully testing to make sure it's going to fit properly.

2) When in doubt, pin it. Big FW models are heavy blocks of resin, and even if you think your glue is strong enough to hold it a good pinning job will make it a lot easier to keep everything in place while the glue dries. I'd pay careful attention to the Warhound's legs, since the full weight of the body is sitting on rather delicate leg joints that will be under a lot of twisting force.

3) Think before you build. Think about how to assemble it, think about how to paint it (for example, how will you hold a part while you paint it), etc. FW assembly instructions can be pretty minimal, so make sure you've thought carefully about the best way to do everything. You don't want to discover halfway through a $500 titan kit that you've lined something up wrong, or glued it all together and can't reach a spot with a paintbrush unless you break it all apart again.

This will help you a lot.

Don't forget to wash the models and scrub them down before painting them: otherwise the paint flakes off. Also, the mars pattern has a really cool shoulder joint: by setting a pin through the top of the upper arm into the cap on the shoulder, it is possible to make the shoulder rotate freely, along with the cap on top. Then use large rare-earth magets on the guns to magnetize them to the arm (you need to flatten the ball joint on the bottom of the arm, and clean out a recess in the gun).
It is also possible to light the head if you are careful: if you do, set the lights behind the command chair, and cover the eye sockets of the cockpit with a coloured plastic (tic-tac box or coloured plastic wrap looks ok). If you are careful, you can get the "eyes" of the warhound to glow!