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Made in gb
Stubborn Dark Angels Veteran Sergeant






Hi Dakka, I am currently working on painting up a Ravenwing list and am looking for advice on using varnish. I will be using the models for gaming, so varnish is a must.
I am currently unsure between matt and gloss, and also abut the qualities of spray varnish.
Do any DA or BT players have any advice for varnish on black power armour?
I'll provide some pics of how I've painted my bikes so far.
Thanks in advance.
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Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Well, I don't paint/play either of the armies listed, but I have varnished over more than a bit of black, so I'll weigh in, anyway.

The lovely thing about varnish is that it's clear - what color is underneath it matters less than personal preference regarding luster. While gloss finishes have their place, especially when starkly differentiating between the reflectivity of dissimilar details (shiny gems/lenses or wet blood/saliva, as opposed to rough cloth), matte is generally the weapon of choice. It gives the best sense of full-size objects viewed at a distance (atmospheric perspective in a can) and keeps ambient light from reflecting harshly and washing out painted highlights. Satin can sometimes lend a sense of "gloss at scale," having a bit of a sheen without being as prone to sharp glares.

Keep in mind that varnishes can be applied in layers and the topmost coat will determine the final look. Lots of people will apply a layer or two (or more) of gloss varnish first, for robust protection, then a final coat of matte to restore a more natural look. I do this, too, but my reliance on gloss is more about money and hassle than relative strength - acrylic gloss sprays are less finicky than matte ones, in my experience, and dry both more quickly and with less stink than lacquers. I can do the heavy lifting with those and use my comparatively expensive but completely worthwhile Dullcote sparingly, while still getting the desired look and protection.

Everyone has their favorite brands of spray, the names of which you've likely heard before - Krylon, Rust-oleum, Testors, etc. There are also a number of options that can be brushed on by hand or sprayed by airbrush - Vallejo and fine arts brands like Liquitex and Golden spring to mind. Personally, I use Krylon's Crystal Clear gloss, followed by Testors Dullcote. If I want to re-gloss any details, I'll go back in and apply Vallejo gloss by brush.

[multiple edits: Time for bed, methinks...]

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/07/04 07:25:45


The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in nl
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot






I second what oadie just said I use a good coat of gloss varnish for protection, followed by a light coat of matt to take all the shine off. (I airbrush vallejo's varnishes for this)

3000p
2000p
7500p 
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





Before you do, consider getting a thin permanent marker pen (like the ones used to write on dvds) and writing something on the scrolls like the big one on his right shoulder pad.
   
Made in gb
Stubborn Dark Angels Veteran Sergeant






Thanks for the advice Oadie, I've bought a can of gloss and matt spray.
However I am living out in China at the moment, and Dullcote & Krylons aren't available here.
Following advice from a Chinese modeling forum, they suggested Mr. Hobby products as the best available.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Clear-Spray-170ml-Gundam/dp/B002DTL7Y4

If there's anything I should know about this stuff please tell, though I doubt many people on dakka would have used it.

Cadbren - Thanks, I know they do look a bit bare. But I'm already on it, ordered some fine markers earlier this week, just waiting for them to arrive before I finish the model off.
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Sneaky location flags. I assumed you were in the UK.

No experience with it, personally, as you've guessed, but Mr. Hobby is reasonably well known in the historical/Gundam modeling communities. I've seen positive reviews for Mr. Surfacer, but have heard nothing about their varnishes. From poking around online at various points, I get the feeling that Mr. Hobby is rather like Vallejo - broad range of products and nearly all of them are safe bets. I don't think sub-par hobby supplies would survive the Japanese market, anyway.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in au
Xeno-Hating Inquisitorial Excruciator





Australia

Test miniature - sacrifice an unwanted miniature (with the right colour scheme) before you attack your meticulous paint job - best advice I've ever received regarding varnishing.

   
Made in us
Squishy Squig



Davis, CA

Don't spray your varnishes (especially matte) on really humid days, or in extreme heat or cold. Other than that, you should be good.
   
Made in gb
Stubborn Dark Angels Veteran Sergeant






Ok thanks for all the help guys, I have a converted librarian on a bike I want to repaint, so I guess I'll test the varnish on him then strip him down after.

I've heard of temperature and humidity effecting the spray before, but I've also heard of acclimatising both the model and the spray to the same temperature to help solve the problem of heat at least. (I don't know how true this is.)

In the Summer this would be fine, however winter hits -30 degrees C here, and I don't fancy leaving my aerosols outside in that, is it possible to prime/ varnish in such weather, short of varnishing in a ventilated place indoors?
Or would I have to stock up on primed models in the autumn?
   
 
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