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So I just got all my necrons in (all 4000pts worth) and I have an idea on paint, but I want to ask people to make sure I have the right idea on how to execute this scheme.
So I attached a few photos below to give the idea of it...but basically I want to do gold bodies silver limbs, silver heads, and foul green glow (Bluetablepaintings rust necron glow) But I am going to dry brush bone over the faces of the army like war paint.
So...
you can see in the photos below...from forge world how they have a color mix where the gold looks dull and almost like it has bronze tint to it. also you see it on the silver too, can anyone give me an idea on the colors to achieve this look throughout my army?
Thanks!
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Better late than never...While I'm no expert I do know that FW doesn't use too much in the way of GW paints and they use more professional products and techniques. My guess on this particular model is that they used a couple different gilding waxes. They often use Rub n Buff pewter and gold which I think comprises the FW scheme over a black primer coat. The rub and buff goes on very smooth and thin and when stippled on gives that pitted metal look. After that they likely use a very diluted coat of Tamiya smoke to give it that tarnished look followed by another application of pewter rub n buff to create "fresh gouges." This is a monolith and some other necron units that I've been working on using the above mentioned technique but also incorporating tamiya clear green in some spots to tie in my green OSL. The rub n buff effect looks great on larger flat surfaces such as those on the Night Scythe and Monolith. Its a little harder to notice on the Jet Bikes. I'm not a pro painter by any means but I can paint by numbers and I'm pretty steady with an airbrush. Anyways hope this helps. My two cp
How does the rub and buff stuff stand up to handling? AK interactive make some buffing metallics in tubes that you just apply which I believe are much the same, but I've always wondered how well they'd work on wargaming models that you are handling all the time, if they'd eventually just get wiped off completely.
It holds up well if you varnish or tint with something like tamiya clear colors. A final matte varnish knocks down any sheen and protects the paint. I play with these models and found their disability to be good.