Switch Theme:

How can I improve on my imperial fists?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






I am looking for tips on painting. I am not a good painter by any means, and would like a faster way to get a tabletop quality army than the current Averland sunset layer x2, sepia wash, rehilight with averland, highlight with yriel, then bleached bone.

This guy took me 2 hours to do, and it was the absolute best I could paint it. I am thinking of just basecoating black, a few thin layers of averland, sepia wash, do the metal details and red, then sponging on battle damage and a mix of nuln oil and aragax earthshade. Guess Ill try that out tomorrow. But until then...any pointers?
[Thumb - IMG_2162.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_2163.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_2164.JPG]


warhammer 40k mmo. If I can drive an ork trukk into the back of a space marine dread and explode in a fireball of epic, I can die happy!

8k points
3k points
3k points
Admech 2.5k points
 
   
Made in us
Grisly Ghost Ark Driver





Some Tomb World in some galaxy by that one thing in that one place (or Minnesota for nosy people)

Well first off with painting yellow you will be better off with a white primer otherwise you will spend an annoying amount of time getting all the yellow down for a basecoat

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/08/22 04:11:37


"Put your 1st best against you opponents 2nd best, your 2nd best against their 3rd best, and your 3rd best against their 1st best"-Sun Tzu's Art of War

"If your not winning, try a bigger sword! Usually works..."

10k
2k
500 
   
Made in us
Sergeant





Yeah. Get an airbrush, prime white, airbrush several light coats of averland, sepia and so forth, airbrushes are seriously your best friend when painting yellow, my first army was IF I used model master deep yellow for the color, its an enamel and requires more skill to properly airbrush. I'm currently working on DA BAD MOONZ!! Using a different technique, priming black and doing broad highlights using the new yellow base(forgot name) it works quite well. So to summarize, get an airbrush...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/08/22 04:16:47





 
   
Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Also any good place to get just the mark 2 crusader helmet in bulk? I think its a nice look for an imperial fist army.

warhammer 40k mmo. If I can drive an ork trukk into the back of a space marine dread and explode in a fireball of epic, I can die happy!

8k points
3k points
3k points
Admech 2.5k points
 
   
Made in gb
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





UK

For IF, one thing that woks really well is sponge-weathering, as it breaks up the yellow. Dip a piece of sponge in a 1:1 mix of black and gunmetal, and lightly dab this on the mini on areas where paint would chip, like lower legs, gauntlets and any CC weapons. This helps break up the large expanses of colour and provides a nice contrast.

Unfortunately for the yellow itself, there really are no short cuts, but I will second the white basecoat. to get a brighter tone from the off. An Airbrush will help, but is not mandatory, it will just speed the process up a lot.

 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




United kingdom (derby)

If you don't mind using paints from other ranges I would highly recommend the deamonic yellow primer from army painter give it a wash with agrax earth shade and you can leave it at that or give it a highlight of yellow for a better finish.
   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





I recommend that you go over the washed areas with the underlying yellow to clean it up, as you are putting bright, clean highlights on a dark, dirty, washed yellow. The highlight is right next to the dark washed yellow which creates a huge contrast. A smoother transition would be to have dark washed recesses, clean yellow surfaces, and bright highlights on the edges.

Or alternatively, you can highlight with the base yellow you used before the wash instead of using a lighter yellow.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/08/22 13:01:22


Hail the Emperor. 
   
Made in gb
Nurgle Predator Driver with an Infestation





Plymouth

Easiest way i've found to paint yellow (working on a Bad Moonz army) is to actually prime it yellow to begin with! Army Painter do some great spray paints for this, but im currently using humbrol yellow number 69, and it makes yellow so much easier, then you can layer on details afterwards.

You're rich! You're flashy! You 'ave a proppa Orky stoutness about your belly! And you've got more big, shooty, and dead 'ard gear than any 2 other Orks put together. Da uvver clans orta make way for da Bad Moons!

7th Ed Orks 63-14-2 
   
Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Some more pics. I have made my versions super gritty, partly because I don't like that out of the factory look of armies, and partly because I am not a good painter, and nicely done grit can distract the eyes from bad detail. And while I don't think ill be winning any painting competitions, I think my army will have a fun, uniform look when done. Couple troops done up for the commander, going to add decals since I am not so hot with small detail stuff. I tend to really gritty up the legs, since I imagine they would take the bulk of scratching and obviously trouncing thru the mud. And got my fickle flash to work, so there is more light to see the detail, what little of it there is.
[Thumb - IMG_2165.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_2166.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_2167.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_2171.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_2172.JPG]


warhammer 40k mmo. If I can drive an ork trukk into the back of a space marine dread and explode in a fireball of epic, I can die happy!

8k points
3k points
3k points
Admech 2.5k points
 
   
Made in us
Grovelin' Grot Rigger





Gloucester Point, VA USA

I agree with the earlier posts, start with a much lighter primer color for a bright color scheme like the IF have. OR if you prefer having the black primer, since you already hvae it, prefer it for the metal parts of the model, etc, start your yellows with a light brown color and work your way up from there. It will make your life much easier to have solid yellows at the final stage, without lots and lots of coats.

: 4000+ points
2000 + points (Alpha Legion)
Just started! ( <500 points ) 
   
Made in gb
Waaagh! Warbiker





Chelmsford

Hi mate,

Awesomepaintjob on youtube does 2 painting tutoitals or sterotypically nasty colours to apply, being red and yellow in this case. They are simply named "I hate painting yellow" and "I hate painting red".

Well worth a look for this. Also, if you do consider getting an airbrush as one of the posts suggests (great idea) then vallejo do a lovely yellow primer.

All the best

   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: