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Hey guys I'm about to start my new army and I want to try my hand at airbrushing. I'm currently looking at these two items. From what research I've done, it has been said that for primer, pre-shading, and base coats all I need is a decent cheap airbrush, and to make sure to get a compressor with a tank on it, along with pressure reg and water catcher. So all in all I wanted a setup that wasn't a professional level setup with the big big airtank and compressor and the 400 dollar German airbrushes etc. So I narrowed it down to these, and I'll explain why I'm looking at this airbursh.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390825931193?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

and the tank/compressor

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190949871802?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


So basically I know that to spray primer or a thicker solution through you need a bigger nozzle instead of pushing too much psi through the brush so I really liked this kit as it was the only one with a .5 mm nozzle with it. I did see a couple cheaper Siphon feed with up to a .8 nozzle that I thought would be okay for primer.

So is a .5 mm nozzle okay for a spray primer? I know it's not ideal for base coats etc as the .3 or .4 would work better for that but I guess I'm stuck with the .3

As for the tank, I did see that the same place has 2 and 4 piston setups but both have a smaller 3L tank and this one has a 3.5L tank. The 2 and 4 piston setups are more for professional setups are they not? I don't know much about them but will the single do everything I would need it to do?

I've been collecting paints in the Vallejo game color line and a couple others, so my last question is; Would the game color line work okay with the airbrush as I've seen some people saying on some of the threads I've searched to get the "model air" line of paints. So would I be okay with my current one? Should I say just be sure to thin out the paint a lot more or what?

Thanks for your time dakka.
Mitchell

Somewhat new to airbrush myself but learned a few things.
Some suggestions:
- The airbrush looks fine, it gives you all the options for fiddling with things like setting the stop when you pull back to apply paint. It is inexpensive enough not to be a worry.
- You might want to look into how loud that compressor is, you might want to fabricate a box to muffle the noise. Again, inexpensive enough not to be a worry.
- An in-line flow control at the airbrush will be helpful.
- Quick disconnects or using the flow control is helpful for cutting off the airline for cleaning (that has to happen often)
- Get paint specific mask to protect your lungs: any airborne paint is bad (Cadmium especially so).
- Get a good brush for cleaning the final nozzle, it tends to build up paint quickly.
- Get the tiny needle "brush" (more like a file) for cleaning the tiny paint nozzle.

Specific questions to answer:
- The smaller nozzle means smaller spray area which would mean more fussing around if you have many to do. I have taken the final nozzle off to get a wider spread which seems to help.
- The extra pistons just help with reducing "pulsing" in the spray (less air getting packed into the tank at faster intervals). The bigger the tank, the more it acts as a "shock absorber" so it would help the most. The braided line has some flex to it as well which also helps. I "think" (having not tried it though) you would be fine.
- Airbrush specific paints are ideal only because you can drop it into the airbrush direct with a consistent mix. Being careful to mix consistently "airbrush medium" with your paints would be as good and most likely cheaper (medium is usually distilled water and rubbing alcohol, more alcohol = faster dry).

Tips I have learned:
- Get a big jug with a small opening, drop inside paper towel end-first and rattle it around, this is a handy thing to spray into for purging or just to clean the brush.
- Brake fluid is a great airbrush cleaner but nasty on skin (does not hurt metal or rubber seals but kills paint), get a sealable glass bottomed container and gloves to clean.
- Some great teaching videos out there, best tip: "When painting, you always start with the air on the brush, then pull back to apply paint, turn off paint, then air when done.

Still have a ton to learn, block painted a ton of guard recently and for that alone I am VERY happy.

 Talizvar wrote:
Somewhat new to airbrush myself but learned a few things.
Some suggestions:
- The airbrush looks fine, it gives you all the options for fiddling with things like setting the stop when you pull back to apply paint. It is inexpensive enough not to be a worry.
- You might want to look into how loud that compressor is, you might want to fabricate a box to muffle the noise. Again, inexpensive enough not to be a worry.
- An in-line flow control at the airbrush will be helpful.
- Quick disconnects or using the flow control is helpful for cutting off the airline for cleaning (that has to happen often)
- Get paint specific mask to protect your lungs: any airborne paint is bad (Cadmium especially so).
- Get a good brush for cleaning the final nozzle, it tends to build up paint quickly.
- Get the tiny needle "brush" (more like a file) for cleaning the tiny paint nozzle.

Specific questions to answer:
- The smaller nozzle means smaller spray area which would mean more fussing around if you have many to do. I have taken the final nozzle off to get a wider spread which seems to help.
- The extra pistons just help with reducing "pulsing" in the spray (less air getting packed into the tank at faster intervals). The bigger the tank, the more it acts as a "shock absorber" so it would help the most. The braided line has some flex to it as well which also helps. I "think" (having not tried it though) you would be fine.
- Airbrush specific paints are ideal only because you can drop it into the airbrush direct with a consistent mix. Being careful to mix consistently "airbrush medium" with your paints would be as good and most likely cheaper (medium is usually distilled water and rubbing alcohol, more alcohol = faster dry).

Tips I have learned:
- Get a big jug with a small opening, drop inside paper towel end-first and rattle it around, this is a handy thing to spray into for purging or just to clean the brush.
- Brake fluid is a great airbrush cleaner but nasty on skin (does not hurt metal or rubber seals but kills paint), get a sealable glass bottomed container and gloves to clean.
- Some great teaching videos out there, best tip: "When painting, you always start with the air on the brush, then pull back to apply paint, turn off paint, then air when done.

Still have a ton to learn, block painted a ton of guard recently and for that alone I am VERY happy.

Thanks so much for the reply and the info. Yeah I've been watching youtube vids on painting your mini's and stumbled upon this channel from BuyPainted and this guy is like an airbrush master lol. I mean what he could do with pre-shading and how smooth the paint went on etc I was sold on airbrushing right there. The models he produced was just spectacular.

Could you comment on my question about the primer? would the .5 mm nozzle be okay for spraying it?

The VGC and Citadel paints are fine through an airbrush if you thin them properly. VMA are easier to use with an airbrush, depending on your nozzle size - I still like to thin VMA a bit.

I like the Vallejo polyeurethane primers a lot, and they go fine through an 0.5 brush.

The larger nozzle siphon feeds are great for things like scenery, where you're blowing a lot of cheaper paint.

 ruprecht wrote:
The VGC and Citadel paints are fine through an airbrush if you thin them properly. VMA are easier to use with an airbrush, depending on your nozzle size - I still like to thin VMA a bit.

I like the Vallejo polyeurethane primers a lot, and they go fine through an 0.5 brush.

The larger nozzle siphon feeds are great for things like scenery, where you're blowing a lot of cheaper paint.

thanks!

The first Airbrush I owned (and still have it) was a Masters G22. Its an ok brush. I am going to recommend spending an extra $30 on a Badger Patriot 105 or an Iwata Eclipse and here is why. A replacement needle for the Masters is going to run you $13 plus $8 in shipping. The replacement needles for the Badger or Iwata are $10 and can be picked up at Michael s or Hobby Lobby (respectively) Just one needle replacement and trust me you will replace the needle on your first brush will put you in the same price range as the better brushes.

It is not just about getting a compressor with a tank on it. It is about CFM's, something that is not talked about enough around here. Can you use a compressor with a CFM fairing lower that your brush? Yes, but it will run constantly and burn out within a couple of years. Constant running also leads to overheating of the motor, which means the air going through your brush is hotter. The hot air creates pressure problem flow problems and pulsating in the compressor motor.

Spend the time and research the right compressor, them spend the money once on one compressor.

A.

 darefsky wrote:
The first Airbrush I owned (and still have it) was a Masters G22. Its an ok brush. I am going to recommend spending an extra $30 on a Badger Patriot 105 or an Iwata Eclipse and here is why. A replacement needle for the Masters is going to run you $13 plus $8 in shipping. The replacement needles for the Badger or Iwata are $10 and can be picked up at Michael s or Hobby Lobby (respectively) Just one needle replacement and trust me you will replace the needle on your first brush will put you in the same price range as the better brushes.

so why are you replacing the needle though? I mean you can clean it off after every use so why would it need replacing?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Redfinger wrote:
It is not just about getting a compressor with a tank on it. It is about CFM's, something that is not talked about enough around here. Can you use a compressor with a CFM fairing lower that your brush? Yes, but it will run constantly and burn out within a couple of years. Constant running also leads to overheating of the motor, which means the air going through your brush is hotter. The hot air creates pressure problem flow problems and pulsating in the compressor motor.

Spend the time and research the right compressor, them spend the money once on one compressor.

A.

Very true, but there again was the main point of my post. I'm not a professional that is going to sit for hours doing this work. I'm going to take maybe 30 to an hour to paint and then do something else for a while. I'm simply not going to spend over 200 dollars on something that I'm not going to use every day. I get the idea of getting the good stuff and not having to deal with it ever again but honestly if the compressor / tank holds up fine for an hour every couple days then it's okay with me. Also I won't be painting balls to the wall so to speak so the tank if lowered will fill back up before I start back painting. But as I said I understand where you are coming from.

Maybe one day if I get really good at it, maybe I'll start making some money on the side painting this stuff or doing something else using the air brush. Then if that's the case I could see putting more money into it.

Your going to replace the needle because at some point you will bend it or bang it into something. It's gonna happen, usually at the point that you really need to finish a model right at that time.

 darefsky wrote:
Your going to replace the needle because at some point you will bend it or bang it into something. It's gonna happen, usually at the point that you really need to finish a model right at that time.

ah very true, sometimes I am like a bull in a china shop. But doesn't that end cap cover it so it doesn't get damaged though?

MitchellTyner wrote:

 darefsky wrote:
Your going to replace the needle because at some point you will bend it or bang it into something. It's gonna happen, usually at the point that you really need to finish a model right at that time.

ah very true, sometimes I am like a bull in a china shop. But doesn't that end cap cover it so it doesn't get damaged though?

Yes but it does not protect the needle when you pull it out to clean it. Or when you remove the cover to get the brush "just a little bit closer".

 darefsky wrote:

MitchellTyner wrote:

 darefsky wrote:
Your going to replace the needle because at some point you will bend it or bang it into something. It's gonna happen, usually at the point that you really need to finish a model right at that time.

ah very true, sometimes I am like a bull in a china shop. But doesn't that end cap cover it so it doesn't get damaged though?

Yes but it does not protect the needle when you pull it out to clean it. Or when you remove the cover to get the brush "just a little bit closer".

True, I'll have to be very careful then. Though honestly I don't think for what I'm going to be doing with it I'll need to get too close, Primer/pre-shade/base really doesn't need to be that close and fine with the brush work correct?

MitchellTyner wrote:

 darefsky wrote:
Your going to replace the needle because at some point you will bend it or bang it into something. It's gonna happen, usually at the point that you really need to finish a model right at that time.

ah very true, sometimes I am like a bull in a china shop. But doesn't that end cap cover it so it doesn't get damaged though?

To a degree.

Most times that I have damaged a needle have been after I removed it from the airbrush for cleaning. One of my most used airbrushes does not have a needle guard, and I have ruined one of those needles by bumping it against a model even though I am extraordinarily careful with it. It is just one of those things that happens some times, even when you try to avoid it.

Like Darefsky, I used a Master airbrush when I first started out. It was okay; it got paint on my models and didn't give me too much trouble but it is cheaply made and can't compare to a higher quality brush. I will second his advice to spend a few extra dollars and purchase a higher quality brush, it will benefit you in the long run.

 Redfinger wrote:
It is not just about getting a compressor with a tank on it. It is about CFM's, something that is not talked about enough around here. Can you use a compressor with a CFM fairing lower that your brush? Yes, but it will run constantly and burn out within a couple of years. Constant running also leads to overheating of the motor, which means the air going through your brush is hotter. The hot air creates pressure problem flow problems and pulsating in the compressor motor.

Spend the time and research the right compressor, them spend the money once on one compressor.

A.

Airbrush/compressor CFM isn't talked about much because most airbrush-specific compressors are rated to handle most readily available airbrushes. That compressor he is interested in is rated 0.8 cfm (23 l/m) which is perfectly fine as a minimum rating for use with most fine art airbrushes. Pretty much anything short of those super cheap tankless mini compressors will work just fine (those should be avoid at all cost for plenty of other reasons than their poor cfm ratings).

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:

MitchellTyner wrote:

 darefsky wrote:
Your going to replace the needle because at some point you will bend it or bang it into something. It's gonna happen, usually at the point that you really need to finish a model right at that time.

ah very true, sometimes I am like a bull in a china shop. But doesn't that end cap cover it so it doesn't get damaged though?

To a degree.

Most times that I have damaged a needle have been after I removed it from the airbrush for cleaning. One of my most used airbrushes does not have a needle guard, and I have ruined one of those needles by bumping it against a model even though I am extraordinarily careful with it. It is just one of those things that happens some times, even when you try to avoid it.

Like Darefsky, I used a Master airbrush when I first started out. It was okay; it got paint on my models and didn't give me too much trouble but it is cheaply made and can't compare to a higher quality brush. I will second his advice to spend a few extra dollars and purchase a higher quality brush, it will benefit you in the long run.

 Redfinger wrote:
It is not just about getting a compressor with a tank on it. It is about CFM's, something that is not talked about enough around here. Can you use a compressor with a CFM fairing lower that your brush? Yes, but it will run constantly and burn out within a couple of years. Constant running also leads to overheating of the motor, which means the air going through your brush is hotter. The hot air creates pressure problem flow problems and pulsating in the compressor motor.

Spend the time and research the right compressor, them spend the money once on one compressor.

A.

Airbrush/compressor CFM isn't talked about much because most airbrush-specific compressors are rated to handle most readily available airbrushes. That compressor he is interested in is rated 0.8 cfm (23 l/m) which is perfectly fine as a minimum rating for use with most fine art airbrushes. Pretty much anything short of those super cheap tankless mini compressors will work just fine (those should be avoid at all cost for plenty of other reasons than their poor cfm ratings).

Thanks for responding. I'll have to see if I win this auction or not, but if I don't I might step up to the Iwata, though most of the Iwata I've seen cost around 100+ dollars though.

The Patriot 105 is $79 and the Eclipse is $105 on amazon right now. Sometimes they clearence them and you can find them a lot cheaper. I go my Patriot for $60 and my Krome for $80

 darefsky wrote:
The Patriot 105 is $79 and the Eclipse is $105 on amazon right now. Sometimes they clearence them and you can find them a lot cheaper. I go my Patriot for $60 and my Krome for $80

I hear that, yeah I'll have to keep my eyes open but honestly I think I'm probably gonna end up winning this auction so I'll just end up with an el-cheapo for my first brush. But that's okay I think I'll be able to make due for now.

i.......i bought the GW flamer airbrush.......


atleast it looks cool..

 Phoenixmaster wrote:
i.......i bought the GW flamer airbrush.......


atleast it looks cool..

whats wrong with it? just over priced or what?

edit: oh gak I just googled it... man why GW why... that thing made me cringe lol
Sorry you got that one man, seriously how bad is it?

It's not really an airbrush, but a spray gun.

I sincerely hope the Master's brush works out for you. Their compressors are generally fine, it seems, but my G44 airbrush is utter garbage. Poor design (needle seat is recessed from color cup) and machining (base of color cup is rough, shredding paper towels and cotton buds) made cleaning a pain, but misalignments in the body have rendered the thing truly useless (leading to untold frustration before I was able to properly diagnose the problem, it being the brush I tried to learn on) - no number of replacement needles/nozzles can give a proper spray pattern when gun itself throws them out of whack. Perhaps they've got their quality control back up to the standards they were at when so many people were recommending them as starter guns. Mine, at least, is pretty much unusable.

As for nozzle size, 0.5mm is generally considered "big" for model work. Great for pushing thicker primers and varnishes at higher PSI, or basecoating large items like terrain. With proper thinning, though, you can do the same (in slightly more time, thanks to the tighter spray pattern) with finer nozzles. I spray Vallejo's PU primer thinned slightly with their airbrush medium (still sits and cures just fine) through the 0.35 nozzle of a HF siphon feed brush without issue. Can also do it at higher pressure without thinning, but that leads to such insane tip dry (at least on this setup) that it becomes pointless. I also use it to spray Pledge FloorCare (as an alternative to Future/Klear) as a gloss varnish, which goes through beautifully neat, thanks to the thin consistency and included surfactant. Still use aerosol Dulcote for matte finishes, as my early experiments shooting Liquitex products showed little promise.

With proper thinning, nearly any paint (you'll run into problems with very coarse pigment, like the flakes found in many metallic/iridescent paints) can be sprayed from nearly any gun. I'd recommend picking up a dedicated airbrush thinner/medium, to start, and add it to your non-airbrush-formulated paints at a 50:50 ratio, adjusting from there based on performance. It's the quickest way to get a useable consistency, allowing you to focus on learning to use the gun instead of fiddling with your paints.

 oadie wrote:
I sincerely hope the Master's brush works out for you. Their compressors are generally fine, it seems, but my G44 airbrush is utter garbage. Poor design (needle seat is recessed from color cup) and machining (base of color cup is rough, shredding paper towels and cotton buds) made cleaning a pain, but misalignments in the body have rendered the thing truly useless (leading to untold frustration before I was able to properly diagnose the problem, it being the brush I tried to learn on) - no number of replacement needles/nozzles can give a proper spray pattern when gun itself throws them out of whack. Perhaps they've got their quality control back up to the standards they were at when so many people were recommending them as starter guns. Mine, at least, is pretty much unusable.

As for nozzle size, 0.5mm is generally considered "big" for model work. Great for pushing thicker primers and varnishes at higher PSI, or basecoating large items like terrain. With proper thinning, though, you can do the same (in slightly more time, thanks to the tighter spray pattern) with finer nozzles. I spray Vallejo's PU primer thinned slightly with their airbrush medium (still sits and cures just fine) through the 0.35 nozzle of a HF siphon feed brush without issue. Can also do it at higher pressure without thinning, but that leads to such insane tip dry (at least on this setup) that it becomes pointless. I also use it to spray Pledge FloorCare (as an alternative to Future/Klear) as a gloss varnish, which goes through beautifully neat, thanks to the thin consistency and included surfactant. Still use aerosol Dulcote for matte finishes, as my early experiments shooting Liquitex products showed little promise.

With proper thinning, nearly any paint (you'll run into problems with very coarse pigment, like the flakes found in many metallic/iridescent paints) can be sprayed from nearly any gun. I'd recommend picking up a dedicated airbrush thinner/medium, to start, and add it to your non-airbrush-formulated paints at a 50:50 ratio, adjusting from there based on performance. It's the quickest way to get a useable consistency, allowing you to focus on learning to use the gun instead of fiddling with your paints.

Thanks for the info, yeah I've noticed with the cheap china knock offs that you will get a really bad one every once in a while. Yeah I'm about to drop some cash on the paints, primer, and thinner stuff. But it seems so much easier to do all the heavy work with the airbrush and then the fine detail with the brushes.

I just need to figure out what all I need specifically to the airbrush like the thinner etc

Here are a few things you are gonna want/need


Airbrush Cleaner. Some type of solvent lots of companies make them and there are tons of tutorials out there on how to make your own. I use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner and dilute it 1:1 with water.

Airbrush Thinner. Again lots of companies make it, you can make your own.

Pipe Cleaners and Q-Tips. For cleaning your shiny new airbrush.

Spray Booth. Just bite the bullet and get one, they come in at $70 from TCP Global and its worth every penny.

Here are things that I use that are not needs but definitely help.

Small plastic cups for mixing. I use medicine cups and get them on amazon they are $4 for 100.

Gloves. The plastic ones, for holding your models when you spray.

Respirator. For protection when shooting anything more than acrylics.

Gater clips and Cork, this gives you something to hold on to so you are not touching the model its self while spraying.

You might appreciate the beginner's tips in this link. The content discussing all the secondary supplies was especially helpful to me.

http://theleadheadblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/compleat-cheapskates-guide-to-getting.html

Also Don' s is a good site:

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/

I know that some have had some success with the Master airbrushes but I never have. It would be worth your time and money to get something like the Patriot of some thing on the lower side of cost but with a proven good name company. Like Badger, Paasche,...etc. These are make in the USA too. Paashe is out of Chicago. Not sure about Badger. Although Badger has released their own line of airbrush ready paints.

I went with a Paasche brush and never looked back. Night and day difference. I use a Master low end compressor(the one you have a link to but no tank) and it works just fine. It has a auto shutoff at 60psi and adjustable pressure.

Sorry you can't take back you bid but I do hope it works for you.

Good luck.

Hey Folks lets not rag hm on the fact that he got a Masters airbrush. Its still an airbrush its still a pretty exciting purchase for a new airbrush user, and hey its gonna still put paint on models. So lets help the man out and make it so he can get the best results possible.

I just got the Master Airbrush G22 model. And for base coating, and doing some work it seems to be just fine. I have a .3mm needle and it seems to spray GW paints thinned with window cleaner just fine. It’s the clumpier cheaper acrylics that are more of an issue. Quick tip on airbrush needles, when cleaning them THEY ARE REALLY SHARP! and if your not careful will stab you very deeply with little to no effort. So be careful

darefsky wrote:Here are a few things you are gonna want/need


Airbrush Cleaner. Some type of solvent lots of companies make them and there are tons of tutorials out there on how to make your own. I use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner and dilute it 1:1 with water.

Airbrush Thinner. Again lots of companies make it, you can make your own.

Pipe Cleaners and Q-Tips. For cleaning your shiny new airbrush.

Spray Booth. Just bite the bullet and get one, they come in at $70 from TCP Global and its worth every penny.

Here are things that I use that are not needs but definitely help.

Small plastic cups for mixing. I use medicine cups and get them on amazon they are $4 for 100.

Gloves. The plastic ones, for holding your models when you spray.

Respirator. For protection when shooting anything more than acrylics.

Gater clips and Cork, this gives you something to hold on to so you are not touching the model its self while spraying.

Thanks so much! Question, is a respirator needed when painting with acrylics or just with other stuff? and where can I get the Cork caps i see on the youtube vids that people have stuff attached to? I've heard a couple including in here, say that you can use brake fluid for the cleaner and window washer fluid for the thinner? I work on cars also so I have brake fluid out my ears and window washer fluid as well lol.

hurtmypony wrote:
You might appreciate the beginner's tips in this link. The content discussing all the secondary supplies was especially helpful to me.

http://theleadheadblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/compleat-cheapskates-guide-to-getting.html

Also Don' s is a good site:

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/

Thanks for the good read!!!

Gundor2 wrote:I know that some have had some success with the Master airbrushes but I never have. It would be worth your time and money to get something like the Patriot of some thing on the lower side of cost but with a proven good name company. Like Badger, Paasche,...etc. These are make in the USA too. Paashe is out of Chicago. Not sure about Badger. Although Badger has released their own line of airbrush ready paints.

I went with a Paasche brush and never looked back. Night and day difference. I use a Master low end compressor(the one you have a link to but no tank) and it works just fine. It has a auto shutoff at 60psi and adjustable pressure.

Sorry you can't take back you bid but I do hope it works for you.

Good luck.

Yeah I now going into it that cheap knock off products are rather hit or miss, though for the limited stuff I'll use it for such as primer, pre-shade, and base coats, I think it will work fine as long as it flows the paint well. Thanks for the reply though, if I get more serious into airbrushing I'll definitely invest in a better brush.

darefsky wrote:Hey Folks lets not rag hm on the fact that he got a Masters airbrush. Its still an airbrush its still a pretty exciting purchase for a new airbrush user, and hey its gonna still put paint on models. So lets help the man out and make it so he can get the best results possible.

Thanks buddy, I need all the help I can get to get the better results I'll be sure to post some pictures as I go along working on the marines. I'm stuck though I'm trying to figure out should I go with Ultra's or Salamanders. Started a thread in General about it as we speak.

zammerak wrote:I just got the Master Airbrush G22 model. And for base coating, and doing some work it seems to be just fine. I have a .3mm needle and it seems to spray GW paints thinned with window cleaner just fine. It’s the clumpier cheaper acrylics that are more of an issue. Quick tip on airbrush needles, when cleaning them THEY ARE REALLY SHARP! and if your not careful will stab you very deeply with little to no effort. So be careful

Yeah I've already noticed those things look like tiny spears lol, a little use of those things and I won't need any "blood for the blood god" paint hahahaha

I have no idea if Break Cleaner will work or not but that's pretty harsh stuff. Isopropal Alcohol and q-tips work really well.

As to thining with Windex. I know people do it. I never have so I can't comment on it.

I've owned 2 Master Series G44's, and I've had nothing but good luck. Though I have bent my share of needles, you can get them in packs or even consider getting a second one so you don't have to switch out needles all the time.

I ruined my first one, I left it soaking in Windex in my sonic cleaner for...months...maybe a year. It had all evaporated, ruined the airbrush. That's why I got a second one.

I love it, even though it's the only airbrush I've used. Nothing but good things to say. That could change if I ever decide to go in on a higher end airbrush.

I also own that compressor. I do tend to paint for hours on end, so it's run a little hot on me. It's not very loud (my wife can't hear it upstairs).

Just take care of your brush, clean it every time and you'll be fine. The Jewelry Cleaner (sonic cleaner) I got from Harbor Freight has been great for everything from cleaning my airbrush to stripping models. I use Windex/Simple Green.

Dropper Bottle paints will be your friend!

darefsky: wubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwub
wubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwubwub
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 darefsky wrote:
I have no idea if Break Cleaner will work or not but that's pretty harsh stuff. Isopropal Alcohol and q-tips work really well.

As to thining with Windex. I know people do it. I never have so I can't comment on it.

It's not the cleaner you want to use I don't think. Brake fluid eats paint, but doesn't hurt metal or rubber. Though you would have use use gloves to use it. Though you can get it and soak your air brush in it because it's cheap for the cheap stuff.

But I'm not saying this is 100% but I've been reading it online in a couple places.

Though I'm wondering if the thinner is windex or the stuff that goes in the windshield washer fluid tank in the car. .. not sure if they are the same thing or not.