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Been painting some new Tau, and I purchased the Guilliman Blue glaze, along with Mourn Mountain Snow and Stirland Mud. I love them so far.

I picked up a 40k basing kit today in hopes of using it to add some flair to my tyranid bases along with two pots of astrogranite texture paint. Needless to say, the basing kit is getting exchanged tomorrow as astrogranite does the trick all by its self.

Rickfactor wrote:Not a favorable review.

That was fairly damning and well presented.

I'm eyeing Vallejo again, since it will mean little impact to my existing paints.

I have to say after watching this review I disagree about the layers, they're no thinner than you'd normally thin paint to anyway. In addition, they thicken up nicely if you just leave a little on a pallet. The bases are meant IMO as a replacement for the foundations, which can also be used as normal, whereas the layers are just normal paints. I have yet to use the dry paints yet as I don't do drybrushing.

Ok so a couple of points of view from me.
Firstly myself, I decided to grab the orc skin colour scheme this weekend (sans dry) to paint up some old Blood Bowl mini's, i've never been great at skin tbh, i also picked up the new how to paint book.
the book is nothing special, in fact i think the way it shows a lot of the layer work is a bit bitty for my liking, i prefer the older blended approach to models. still its a good book for noobs, more on that later.
now the orc skin setup: ok so waaagh flesh covers as a base should, its thick and goes on well, i use a matt grey primer on my models so i get even tones anyway but this goes on and dries nice and neutral. the one BIG issue i had from this is that i could not wash it out of my freakin brush. it took me a good 5 mins to wash my brush out properly the green stained by brush that bad!
not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing?
anyhoo, on to the wash, goes on well, pools well and its finally a decent green shade wash, no arguments.
now the layers.
ok so its effectively saying in the book and all other guides to paint the first layer on then highlight with the second.
this went pretty much as planned, i found the layers to be still quite dry like regular gw paints, and actually applied smoother off a wet palette then straight out of the pot, this is similar to the old blood red issue imo where it would cake a little on painting and leave a lumpy finish, i may use medium and water to thin out the pot a little more for future lazyness.
still i got good results in the end.
to finish i glazed one model with the new green glaze and really liked it, a thin layer all over was nice and gave it that final tie in, i like how the colour palette compliments itself well and i've got decent looking orc flesh, and hell its nice and bright like the orcs of old, none of this dull looking greenskin business!

the other point of view is that of my son, he's 9 and has been painting for around 6 months, he's still learning brush control but has already got good brush discipline i.e. amount of paint on the brush and keeping the point and keeping it clean etc. the rest will come with time.
for him we got the ultramarine setup for his assault on black reach miniatures, he has an orc army in the build as it is so the orc skin stuff should help him loads as i found it very quick but he did fancy some marines.

we've so far based and washed his first squad and the dread, and we've started the first layer on the squad, i was suprised at how dark the drakenhof nightshade really was! but it does shade blue very well indeed. the layers again are going on nice and smooth a bit easier from the pot this time.
once more the blue base colour was a pain to wash out of the brush, i think at this point GW may like to add brush soap to their tech range although they may just want to increase sales of brushes who knows?

we've used some of the techniques out of the book with my son, its a good way of showing basic techniques, i've watched the dvd and it does expand a little on whats in the book but i was a touch upset that they didn't feature all the armies and instead stuck with two. but overall its an ok noob guide, i'd like to see an eavy metal version in the future.

what i would like to see is less reliance on the spray gun, its bloody lazy and somewhat daft when you're applying a base, then a layer, then a wash and then having to redo the layer. this is wasteful and bad practice and gives the same results as basing properly, base layer, ink and layer.
too many layers really hit detail imo.

i did also pick up a texture paint and all the glazes. not tried the texture yet, oh also the base layer gold, i'm interested to see how that goes on, gold has always been a pain!
the glazes i like, they save time rather then making your own and do enhance colours well, i'm interesting to see how they do on blood angel armour both old style and new.
anyhoo just my tuppence worth.
ta
Pete

Anyone have a comparison on fenris grey vs the fang? i bought 10 bottles of fenris just to be sure but it will be good to know,

I bought some Biel-Tan Green to replace my expended Thraka Green, and I was really impressed. The pots are now properly filled, have much better coverage, and no longer smell!

After seeing plenty of info about how the new-to-old GW comparison chart is out of whack, has anyone done a "true" conversion chart?

reps0l wrote:After seeing plenty of info about how the new-to-old GW comparison chart is out of whack, has anyone done a "true" conversion chart?

I don't think you actually will find a "true" 1:1 conversion chart.

The alteration of paint colors and the addition of new colors means that it will be difficult to get 1:1 matches.

I guess, I'm not looking for matches but more of what to expect. Like Mephiston Red is closer to Blood Red in color than Mechrite Red. In the BuyPainted video above, he also points out one of the blues on the conversion chart is off. I know its comparing base to layer, but seems it would be more helpful than what was provided.

I bought the new Screamer Pink base to use on my Tervigon



It flowed easier than a foundation, and required less thinning to get it to the point, where I can put a good base coat over black in one, two in some spots coats.

Verdict is still out for me. Going to try to use just new green paints on my nurgle daemons.

On a side note, that's a pretty cooo Tervigon.

The new paints are incredibly smooth, i was impressed with how much faster I can get models done

Rickfactor wrote:Not a favorable review.

Why do people keep posting this video despite the evident issues with it which have been pointed out all over the place now. Once more with feeling; reviewer is an airbrush painter, dislikes GW, applies the paint differently depending on whether it's old or new, and contradicts his own footage on at least two occasions(says new Bases cover worse than Foundations, then shows Mephiston clearly covering better than Mechrite; and claims new metallics cover worse and have larger pigments, then shows Leadbelcher and Boltgun side by side with no evident difference other than the tone).

I really really wish I could be a bittervet about these paints, but they're no worse than the old ones for experienced painters, and are far far superior for beginners.

Aerethan wrote:Here is a quick 2 pics of the main colors I wanted to test(as I find these 3 are the hardest paints to do well).

First up is a fire warrior that was all black. This model has 2 coats of Averland Sunset, 2 coats of Ceramite White, and only 1 coat of Mephiston Red.


I'm quite pleased with each paints performance. Haven't tried out the 2 metallics I got yet.

I dont know why, uneven and incomplete coverage abound in the pics you've shown. I can get better results for a better price from P3 paints. Also, the whites look as chalky as my skull white paints did when I first started painting my firewarriors 4 years ago...

Ok so i've played with the reds, in general I'm finding that the paints all seem to have more of a matte finish, Argax (the new devlan) tends to do the same thing as devlan but it has more of a stain, same for the carroburg, so I'm thinking that a more targeted application of both is required, no more dunking i think, tomorrow i'll post pics side by side of devlan and argax over mechrite (as its the basis of all cloth in my undead army).

I'm doing a blood angel using new paints for the red, will put it up when i'm done (hopefully tomorrow) I'm using targeted washing rather than dipping (which I usually do) so we will see how it turns out, i'll put it next to the one I did using old paints and dipping, the new is a lot brighter but you can make your own decisions.

Huh? you mean you were dipping with devlan and the other washes and NOT getting stains, etc? If anything i think the new shades need less targeting than the old ones, but thats IMO.

Its my opinion that most of you saying that you didnt have to target with the old washes really don't have a very good eye for quality when it comes to painting, either that or you were working some massive voodoo with the stuff, because my minis looked like crap unless i was targeting.

Could I trouble someone to show Regal Blue next to Kantor Blue or whatever the equivalent is now? It's kind of important to my Crimson Fists!

I was able to try one of the dry colours: "Tyrant Skull".
My first impression is the thickness of the colour which is to be expected for a dry. Sadly this colour came in one of the old pots, so the lid does not stay open by itself, which is a pain for brushing, but nothing that a bent paper clip won't fix.
As for the work itself: its a very convenient colour for brushing - I'm used to Vallejos Bone colour which is very watery and therefore quite difficult to use for drybrushing. The colour of Tyrant Skull is slightly darker than (old)GW or Vallejo bone.

My verdict after my first experience with dry colours:
Convenient and nice quality. I will get some of those as long as the colours match my drybrushing needs.

And in comment to the above mentioned video - how would you drybrush without wiping your brush before???

As for the other categories - my FLGS only got half the colour range (by mistake - GW sent out two Boxes #2). As soon as the glazes and some more of the Layers are in, I will test those too.

well i'm off to get some more colours tonight and grab some of those dry's, i'm interested to see what they're about after all this.
poss get some more of the nice coloured washes too

Sirius42 wrote: Also the new red ink is darker than Baal red

Carroburg?

When I used it I found it to be damn near identical. Even on the pallet.

Carroburg is a lot darker, I'd say. Baal Red was practically unnoticable over Blood Red, whereas Carroburg over Mephiston gives a pleasing tint and shades recesses very nicely. I'm a fan of the Mephiston-Carroburg combo. I just need to find a good colour to highlight Mephiston with.

Check out this thread for some old to new color comparisons. Orki has been providing some great stuff
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/440381.page

Brother SRM wrote:Could I trouble someone to show Regal Blue next to Kantor Blue or whatever the equivalent is now? It's kind of important to my Crimson Fists!

I plan on doing one tonight so I will post up some picks when it dries. I'm just going to do a straight out of the pot onto the marine for each color. I know that's not how your supposed to paint but it is the only way to get a good baseline for each. Looking at the wet paint in the pot they look really close.

Haven't tried anything but the shades, but very impressed with Nuln Oil & Carroburg Red - they flow into the recesses very nicely and the red shade is much better that Baal Red. It actually shades since it's darker than Blood and Mechrite Reds. If this impreovement is continued throughout the whole range then I'll be well happy (and skint!). The only problem I have is justifying buying the new paints before I've used up what I have from the old range!

Archroy wrote:Haven't tried anything but the shades, but very impressed with Nuln Oil & Carroburg Red - they flow into the recesses very nicely and the red shade is much better that Baal Red. It actually shades since it's darker than Blood and Mechrite Reds.

That's good to hear. I had to add black ink to my Baal Red wash to be happy with it!

Someone earlier said the washes now known as shades don't flow as well as before, but it sounds like you had a different experience. Do you think they flow into the recess as well as the old washes? Do they 'glaze' or 'shade' flat surfaces as litle or as much as the old washes do?

The flow into recesses just as well, although they do leave behind a stronger stain on surfaces, albeit with less splotchyness thankfully. In general they are darker (and therefore better suited to shading), as well as containing a higher concentration of pigment (hence the staining).

Bah. Stronger stain on surfaces = fail.

You can always thin them slightly with a dash of water if the extra pigment is not to your tastes.

Picked up thirty of them to have a go, including all the ones I suspect will be highlighted for Dark Angels. The rest where mostly ones GW currently has no answer for, pinks, some flesh tones, greens, blues, dry paints and the glazes.

Used some of them on my Infinity figs I was already working on, and loved them. Went on smooth, nice rich colour and generally very impressed.

After a couple more stints of the past couple of days for around six hours painting time total, I am totally sold. In fact I am looking at the other colours and considering upgrading some more reds, yellows and blues to the new colours.

Very happy with the bases and layers overall so far.

Haven't got any shade yet though, will be in my next purchase, the Dry are awesome for me as I use drybrushing a lot for speed. The two times I've tested the dry paints so far they've gone on great.

Could I trouble someone to show Regal Blue next to Kantor Blue or whatever the equivalent is now? It's kind of important to my Crimson Fists!

As a fellow fist player I can tell you that RB and KB are near identical, although I've noticed the new base paints dry a lot quicker!

Anyone tried out Evil Suns Scarlet? I used Blood Red to paint helmets, and it was the suggested replacement. Does it cover better than Blood Red?