Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I've resolved to get myself a lightbox as my photos are coming out far to dark and grainy with just natural light. So, I've set my eye on this one. It's essentially a non-reflective, scratch resistant acrylic box, with a soft strip light above an aperture in the front. Here's the specs and a link to it on ebay:

Brightness: 3750LUX
Color Temperature: 5500K
Lamp Life: 8000H
Product Size: 310 * 225 * 230mm
Shooting area: 296 * 215 * 200mm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301251815771?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

What I'd like to ask to the people who know about lightboxes or how to take higher quality shots of minis is - does this look good for taking pics of minis? I should clarify by saying that I'd like them to look quite high quality - at least semi-professional looking (Although I'll not be taking the pictures for business, simply for personal pride and posting here on Dakka). If this gets a decent opinion, then I suppose I'll splash out and get one.

Cheers for any help in advance.

I am by no means an expert but I've gone for this one by the same guy!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-60cm-Camera-Photo-Studio-Box-Light-Lighting-Cube-Tent-Kit-w-Tripod-UK/301134478966?rt=nc

Its a little bigger and comes with 2 lights (even though they will probs have yellow bulbs) and a little tri pod thing to go with it along with some diff colour backdrops. I know its a couple £ more but you get a few extra bits with it (im a sucker for extra bits) however you can get this one Which is smaller (but still bigger than yours) for 27.

I dont like the single led strip on your box (although it seems to light up that box really well so what can i say.) Although mine hasnt arrived yet, I like the idea of having external lamps so i can move them about in case the lighting isnt quite right.

I did look at that one, but I liked the idea of a self-contained unit, being easier to store and move around. I think the one I'm going for here has different colour backdrops, but I hear what you're saying about being able to move the lights around if the lighting is wrong. I'm not too fussed about size, as long as I can get in at least 5 PA marines - which I think I could squeeze. Anything bigger I tend to photograph separately anyway. All that said, thanks for the pointer - the help is much appreciated.

I've seen quite a few light boxes (but not that one) and to be quite honest, I find that they only help a little bit with photos. Part of the problem is that most of them lie about the included light sources -- they're usually not bright enough and not even remotely close the color temperature they claim.

To take great miniature photos, you need a camera on a tripod with manual settings for focus, aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. This almost always means a DSLR. You don't need a fancy lens, but a good quality lens (like a prime 50mm) will help. The backdrop is easy: just use a white 100% polyester pillowcase or other piece of fabric (polyester is nice because it doesn't wrinkle, and you can't see the fold. Finally, you need a decent light source.

The main problem that many people have is that point-and-shoot cameras will get a part of the miniature in great focus, and the rest comes up blurry. This is why a camera with manual settings is so important. Focus the camera on a part of the miniature that is mid-distance from the camera. If the camera has a live view with magnification, use that, because the tiniest bit of focus will make a huge difference. Next, set the camera to its highest aperture setting -- for instance, f22. A high (small) aperture will mean that very little light comes through, but the field of depth will be very great, meaning that you can have the entire miniature, from the point closest to you to the point furthest away, appear in focus at the same time (conversely, if photographing a diorama and you want only the subject in focus, widen the aperture).

Because the aperture is so small, you will need to greatly increase the exposure time. With good lighting, at f22, you might need a 1 second exposure. Either use a remote trigger, or the camera's timer. You don't want to move the camera when you press the shutter button.

As with all studio photos, use the fastest ISO setting, probably 100, so that the picture is not grainy.

Lighting is critical, but fortunately, your subject is tiny and immobile. The cheapest way to get a lot of light is to buy 400W-500W equivalent 5500k CFL bulbs. The look like gigantic (foot long) squiggly bulbs; you can get them on amazon for quite cheap (about $10 each, I think). They use a standard light bulb socket, but there are lighting sets that come with 4 bulbs, two stands, and two lamps that each hold two bulbs -- I think I've seen them as cheap as $60.

If this is too spendy for you, purchase the highest wattage daylight CFL bulbs at your hardware store or online. Phillips makes ones that have a 45W draw; without using a light meter, I would guestimate that they're maybe the equivalent of 150-200W incandescent. The color temperature is the most important thing -- you want white (bluish) light, not yellow light. The second most important thing is to have light from at least 2 directions, so that you don't get heavy shadows.

I have included a picture that I took using exactly the setup that I describe above -- I have a little photo nook where I leave a cheap Cowboy Studio set from Amazon, and an older Canon t2i with a 50mm 1.4 lens. I leave the tripod and camera focused on the same place, and I have a little mark where I put my models, so I never have to worry about focus, unless I change the angle

@Talys - An interesting point you have there and I can't argue with the proof of your images (Looking good btw ). I was trying to avoid having to buy all manner of equipment (Purely from an organisational point of view), that's why I quite liked the idea of having a self-contained unit. I don't have a DSLR myself, but it's not a problem as I can always borrow one from a relative of mine (Canon EOS Digital Rebel XS). The main problem I'm gonna have is getting a tripod for the camera, and I'm not keen on the idea of having to set up bits of paper/pillowcases, tripods and other paraphernalia every time I want to take a photo. I appreciate you say manufacturers lie about the light sources, but surely the manufacturers are using the same bulbs you can get on amazon? - I gather they are charging a price more for the tent/box than the bulbs. Anyway, thanks for the advice - I'm much obliged to you for the in depth answer.

 Warpig1815 wrote:
@Talys - An interesting point you have there and I can't argue with the proof of your images (Looking good btw ). I was trying to avoid having to buy all manner of equipment (Purely from an organisational point of view), that's why I quite liked the idea of having a self-contained unit. I don't have a DSLR myself, but it's not a problem as I can always borrow one from a relative of mine (Canon EOS Digital Rebel XS). The main problem I'm gonna have is getting a tripod for the camera, and I'm not keen on the idea of having to set up bits of paper/pillowcases, tripods and other paraphernalia every time I want to take a photo. I appreciate you say manufacturers lie about the light sources, but surely the manufacturers are using the same bulbs you can get on amazon? - I gather they are charging a price more for the tent/box than the bulbs. Anyway, thanks for the advice - I'm much obliged to you for the in depth answer.

Thank you!

A box or a stack of books will also work, if you don't have a tripod If your desk is long enough, you can even just put your camera on one end of the desk, as we usually don't want to photograph single miniature units on too much of an angle (otherwise, we lose the front).

The reason that I've bought my bulbs from amazon is, amazingly, they are cheaper there than anywhere else I've found. For instance, these are only $11 with free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/fancierstudio-Compact-Fluorescent-60W-Daylight/dp/B00947YBV4/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1411117724&sr=8-16&keywords=5500k+light+bulb

For a couple of bucks more, you can get 85W ones. My painting station actually has 2 of the 85W ones, plus one of the bendy arm magnifier lamps. They seem to last about a couple of years (I have them on a few hours every day).

@Talys - Well I've just found the same lightbox going cheap on an auction listing, so I *may* snap it up and see how it goes. If it's bad, then at least I haven't lost much and if it's good then I've got a decent lightbox. In the case it does turn out bad, I can always put it back on eBay and look into the set-up you've suggested. Could you point me to an appropriate stand for the bulbs you've suggested? - I'm really clueless as to what I'd need to build a decent set-up myself

If you go to amazon, just search for "studio lighting" and look at CFL setups that fit your space; generally more bulbs are better, and the higher color temperature, the more blue the light (5000k+ is important). The lamps can hold between 1 and 5 bulbs, generally, and the kits are a good way to start because they give you a bunch of bulbs.

If you have the space, this starter kit is only $50, and includes 3 bulbs, 3 stands, and 3 lamps (keep in mind that you don't have to use the umbrella -- you can just point the bulb at the miniature):

http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-Lighting/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411156964&sr=8-1&keywords=studio+lighting

If your space is quite limited, you can use a tabletop stand like this:

http://www.amazon.com/StudioPRO-Light-Photography-Studio-Lighting/dp/B00L5TGT82/ref=sr_1_89?ie=UTF8&qid=1411156574&sr=8-89&keywords=studio+lighting

This is the best deal on brighter bulbs (you can just use the dimmer bulbs and increase exposure time) -- $27 for two 105w bulbs:

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-105-Fluorescent-Daylight-Photography/dp/B004L75BGQ/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1411156846&sr=8-45&keywords=studio+lighting

I certainly wouldn't fault you for buying one of the lighting boxes. I bought one myself! I just almost never use it, because the light isn't really the right color on my cheapie kit, and all the sides do is diffuse my light source. Plus, I kind of like the shadows that are cast by the model and the fold in the backdrop (as you can see in my photos). They add a little more texture to the photo; with the light box, it comes out all white (or blue, red, green, etc.), and the model looks more like it's floating.

Hope that helps, and good luck!

I was tthinking your earlier posts over today and came up with a possible solution. Regarding the strip lamp, I could simply rewire the strip bulb and fit a socket for one of the bulbs you poster earlier on. It's a touch more work, but it may be a good balance between neat storage and the correct type of light. I'm not sure if that's a viable idea though...

 Warpig1815 wrote:
I was tthinking your earlier posts over today and came up with a possible solution. Regarding the strip lamp, I could simply rewire the strip bulb and fit a socket for one of the bulbs you poster earlier on. It's a touch more work, but it may be a good balance between neat storage and the correct type of light. I'm not sure if that's a viable idea though...

The CFL bulbs will work in any socket approved for the wattage of the rated bulb. So, for instance, don't try to put a 105W bulb into a 60W socket, or you'll risk a fire hazard, but otherwise, any type of socket and lamp that will fit it will do -- though the ability to point the bulb at the miniature is certainly helpful.

Keep in mind that these bulbs get bigger as the wattage goes up, and the 105W one is quite large!

Johnson & The Juice Crew wrote:
I am by no means an expert but I've gone for this one by the same guy!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-60cm-Camera-Photo-Studio-Box-Light-Lighting-Cube-Tent-Kit-w-Tripod-UK/301134478966?rt=nc

Its a little bigger and comes with 2 lights (even though they will probs have yellow bulbs) and a little tri pod thing to go with it along with some diff colour backdrops. I know its a couple £ more but you get a few extra bits with it (im a sucker for extra bits) however you can get this one Which is smaller (but still bigger than yours) for 27.

I dont like the single led strip on your box (although it seems to light up that box really well so what can i say.) Although mine hasnt arrived yet, I like the idea of having external lamps so i can move them about in case the lighting isnt quite right.

I have that model & can tell you that the lights get very very hot.
I bought the set Warpig has linked (2nd link) and these are excellent.

@Talys - I was referring more to the fitting than the wattage. The strip lights have a two pin bulb fitting, wheras the bulbs you've suggested have a screw fitting - hence I was thinking of adapting it.

However...

@bubber - Do you mean the acrylic box I linked above? I can't find any decent reviews of these, you your input is going to be akin to gold-dust here Any thoughts on it?

I've also noticed the acrylic box has a circular aperture in the top - perhaps, I can get one of those other lamps you suggested Talys, and get a top down light source, banishing any shadows from that region...

no - i meant the light tent that comes with the 2 lamps.
The lights I bought are the ones Talys listed (uk):
single lamp http://www.amazon.co.uk/PhotoSEL-LS11E21-Tabletop-Studio-Lighting/dp/B004DW8346/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1411174371&sr=8-33&keywords=studio+lighting
2 lamps http://www.amazon.co.uk/PhotoSEL-LS12E42T-Tabletop-Studio-Lighting/dp/B0042SKYGG/ref=pd_sim_ph_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=0KG9QGGK0YEB2NCPF6XX
BUT 2 singles are cheaper then the double pack!!

The acrylic box in your 1sr post does look pretty good.
3750lux is quite close to sky light (not the sun but the rest of the sky).
I think the hole in the top is to take photos from above however an extra light looks like a great idea.
Might pick one up myself.