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Made in us
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





TN, USA

This is my take on the mantis style paint scheme. ..


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Im wanting to explore some other options with lightening up the dark green...I don't really like the look of mostly light green marines....look like pretend orks....lol
[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-09-14-16-22.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-09-14-16-20.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-09-14-16-18.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-09-14-16-14.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-09-14-16-05.png]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/10/09 19:28:25


I used to like natural 20's now i like consecutive 6's...

I Traded in my DiceBag of Holding for a Box o' Dice... 
   
Made in us
Xenohunter with First Contact




Indianapolis, IN

If you're looking for input... the mini looks like a mess, honestly. Before you play around with paint schemes, you need to learn a few things.

The biggest piece of advice I could give is to thin your paints down. You are putting paint on soooo thick that you can see brush strokes. Get yourself some fresh water free of particulates (sold at most grocery stores). Alternatively you could use a painting medium. If you get paints from a GW they sell something called Lahmian Medium. Some people add medium straight to the pot, some add it to the paint once it's on a palette. I personally thin my paints straight in the pot, as they will start to dry out over time anyway. I also thin them a little on my palette. You do what works best for you.

Do you have a few spare marines just like this one? I suggest painting a few of them in different color schemes so you can get the basics of painting inside the lines. The ability to paint straight lines is important if you want to do quality work to share with the community. I guess it all depends on what you are going for: table top standard or above.

After all that, remember these basics when painting a mini: Prime/Undercoat - Base Coat - Wash - Touch Up Base Coat - Highlight 1 - Highlight 2. You can add many more steps depending on what degree of paint job you are going for, but these are the basics.

I mean all of this as respectful criticism. We all have to start somewhere! I sure remember my first minis! Practice, practice, practice, and you'll be painting better in no time!

Also, clean your mold lines! Just get in the habit of doing it early. You can have the greatest paint job in the world, but mold lines will kill all your hard work!

What is best in life? To crush your enemies, to see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentations of their women. Grrr.  
   
Made in us
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





TN, USA

Actually, Thanks for the criticism. I needed to get an evaluation on my skills, or lack thereof. Too often I have gone to play and the army that I’m up against is half painted or so badly painted that mine looks like the Mona Lisa in comparison.
These are an example of some of the work that I felt better about:
There was a method to my madness but I see that I have a need to reorder the levels of paint that I apply. It was:
(Prime)Black-undercoat
(Base coat)D-Green on Armor
(?)Detail work: -Black -Gold - yellow -red -white
(Wash)Black light – wash
But I see that I need to thin out the paint and add layers.
I was noticing, as I looked around, that every color scheme had two highlight layers for every color.
I am guessing that I will be striping and starting over in the near future.



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P.S: The lines...gotta use both hands on that one...lol I really had to look close to find what mold lines you were refering to. I see them now on the Helmet and the outer nee... am i missing any others?

Also I was wondering when you use a Dark Green, what do you use to highlight it (layer it with lighter shade?) mix white on the palette?
Thanks!!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/10/11 10:52:05


I used to like natural 20's now i like consecutive 6's...

I Traded in my DiceBag of Holding for a Box o' Dice... 
   
Made in au
Brainy Zoanthrope





Newcastle, Australia

When I look for mould lines I generally look at where I believe the model's center would be, I.E where the two halves meet. then once I find the line I follow it all the way around until I'm back where I started.

You will notice that it's very obvious in places but very subtle in others. Take the time to get it right before glueing the model together as the end product always looks better.

Also it's amazingly frustrating looking at a model you have finished or half finished and discovering you missed a mould line. That missed mould line will be the only thing you can see until you remove it. Well this is the case for me.

6000 - Hive Fleet Limax
4000 - Sons of Horus
5500 - Ultramarine's
1000 - Blood Raven's
3000 - Skaven 
   
Made in gb
Tough Traitorous Guardsman




London, England

better than my early stuff

www.leadmess.com - my painting and modelling blog! 
   
Made in gb
Frightnening Fiend of Slaanesh






One thing to say though, you just have to practice, it's learning and knowing the techniques and then practicing and applying them. i started probably worse than this but now i would say my models are above table top standard you just need patience and practice whatever you do keep your chin up and don't stop practicing!

KILL MAIM BURN 
   
Made in us
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





TN, USA

thanks for the supportive words gents!! I'll be smashing and stripping and starting over ...I want to be able to have one or two that are at least good table top quality if not tier 2...

Aim High...expect a few misses...use explosive rounds...

I used to like natural 20's now i like consecutive 6's...

I Traded in my DiceBag of Holding for a Box o' Dice... 
   
Made in us
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





TN, USA

so I am gonna rescue a mantis warrior stern guard squad that I had painted at an earlier time....


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The glue on the bases did quite the transformation and got foamy but ill just go with it... as long as the whole squad is on the same bases I won't be worried. after this picture I striped the paint off the marines and primer'ed with white and based with a watered down yellow...
[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-20-08-44-38.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-20-08-44-54.png]

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/10/20 17:16:16


I used to like natural 20's now i like consecutive 6's...

I Traded in my DiceBag of Holding for a Box o' Dice... 
   
Made in au
Brainy Zoanthrope





Newcastle, Australia

Don't be discouraged with painting yellow. It will take you many layers to get a nice colour. Just keep doing watered down thin layers until it comes up nice. Don't rush it and they will look very good.

I think those bases will come up nice with a black spray then some paint. Keep us posted.

6000 - Hive Fleet Limax
4000 - Sons of Horus
5500 - Ultramarine's
1000 - Blood Raven's
3000 - Skaven 
   
Made in us
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





TN, USA

Thanks for the words of support flukezor i'll try to post soon...life is getting in the way...

the bases had a funny reaction to me dripping wattered paint on them before they had dried solid....they puffed up like a pop-over... but they still will work well...

I used to like natural 20's now i like consecutive 6's...

I Traded in my DiceBag of Holding for a Box o' Dice... 
   
Made in us
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





TN, USA

Here are some new photos...I still dont have much time...
[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-23-23-26-41.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-23-23-26-48.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-23-23-27-07.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-10-23-23-27-14.png]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/10/24 09:54:43


I used to like natural 20's now i like consecutive 6's...

I Traded in my DiceBag of Holding for a Box o' Dice... 
   
Made in us
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





TN, USA

There are a few ways i could go with the "alien" terrain

I like the lava look as well as the darker alien terrain

This Time i wanted something that will blend well with the yellow armor...

next time I post I will try to see wich paint scheme looks better....
the yellow and black? the traditional color...

...or yellow and brown...a more subdued scheme


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I have found out what happened to the bases....the gorilla glue(wood glue) was desolveing the cat litter(tidy-scoop) and foaming up and drying...It is a cool affect one that i will use again

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/10/31 11:07:15


I used to like natural 20's now i like consecutive 6's...

I Traded in my DiceBag of Holding for a Box o' Dice... 
   
Made in us
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle





TN, USA

I was going to do a traditional tranquility pattern squad...but i went back to a slight variation...

canary yellow with a ochre yellow wash
shoulder borders and joints black
brown chest emblem (if i had choice i would use blank chest piece as per fluff)
still need to do:
bright green eyes
skulls and purity seals : normal color
black or yellow packs hard to choose...
weapons: need to jazz em up...


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Pics coming soon....cant post at work...


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tranquility pattern armour(unfinished) and bases...
[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-11-04-13-04-05.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-11-04-13-04-12.png]

[Thumb - Screenshot_2014-11-04-13-04-19.png]

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2014/11/04 19:13:04


I used to like natural 20's now i like consecutive 6's...

I Traded in my DiceBag of Holding for a Box o' Dice... 
   
 
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