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Made in gb
Steadfast Grey Hunter





Essex, UK

Here is my rhino. Its the first one I've painted and is coming along nicely. As you can see I havent yet done the trimmings and the driver still needs to be assembled.

The doors will be hinged and one will have my wolf lords sigil. Also the top hatch magnetises in both the open and closed position. I plan to weather the hull with some faint black sponge dabs but may not if it doesn't look good. Was wondering if any of you guys had any weathering advice.

Thanks for looking
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Made in nl
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





Tilburg, Netherlands

Hi there!

Looking nice already. And you can take weathering quite far if you want to. But some basic things that always makes the model come to life are the usual weatherings like mud, sanddust, oily spots, dirt drips that run from top to bottom because of rainy days, rust spots, soot collections around exausts and then you could also have the battle damages like bullet holes tank grenade shredds or even claw marks.

So yeah... There's allot you can add but its all your oppinion on how damaged, dirty or clean you want it to be.

Things I would certainly add would be the mud and sand dust around the bottom. Some darker rainy stains from top down. The soot around the exaust and at least some battle damage where paint has chipped off.

   
Made in gb
Stealthy Grot Snipa





I second Remco,

in terms of your sponge weathering; its a great place to start, as its a simple but very effective technique. I suggest you start from the bottom and do a little there first. So dab a very dry black sponge (the reason I say very dry is that your likely to not get much paint transfer onto the model this way and for a first time it'll help you control the effect), then again with silver.

By not going above the bottom if you really dont like it you can then simply put your 'mud' effect over the top. For my mud I use powders, I have found there mightily effective, I apply them completely dry (which im not sure everyone does?) and then I seal them straight in with varnish from my airbrush. The reason I do this is pigment fixer tends to turn them into a liquid and I dislike losing the texture they have when done dry and thick. But thats purely my taste (especially with orks).

Tbh Remco really did cover most of it. Although for the oil runs and so forth, have you tried oil washes? recent discovery for me and I find them fantastic to work with, as the oil can take hours to dry which means you can fiddle and remove, touch up, changefor ages before you decide you like it. Plus a little white spirit and they go from being tacky/dry to completely workable and wet again. I'd look up some techniques on it if you fancy it

Although, I dont know if they can be done without, but I use an airbrush, which is how I seal and varnish my models for both of the techniques i've described above. Not sure how well they'd work without this; as the oil washes are good on a gloss varnish to help them run, and sealing pigments with an airbrush prevents them being picked up if you were trying to do it with a brush.

Favourite Game: When your Warboss on bike wrecks 3 vehicles simply by HoW - especially when his bike is a custom monowheel.

 
   
Made in gb
Steadfast Grey Hunter





Essex, UK

thanks guys, some really useful info therw. Especially with mud covering insatisfactual oil marks etc. Thanks


Automatically Appended Next Post:
thanks guys, some really useful info therw. Especially with mud covering insatisfactual oil marks etc. Thanks

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/11 03:26:29


 
   
 
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