3 Year newbie needs help painting (ad mech)

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**ninjafiredragon**

Uggh after three years of painting, I'm still horrible. So I sucked up my pride and came here.
The biggest thing I think i need help with is what color should go where, and how light/dark it should be. In my defense I am color blind, but still I would like some "professional" help.

1st of all these are my conversions for the Skitarri Dragoons. Yes they are part Eldar war walker, but it fits into the background of my force. (They are all part of an order Exenos inquisitorial retinue, and are deeply intrigued with the light and durable wraith bone and use it in many of their constructions).

What advise/tips/critiques do you have?
I know they are bad, so please keep your comments help full.

In addition, would you be apposed to playing against these in a game As a converted dragoon?

Thanks,
NFD

**Talizvar**

Will it be helpful to know that I had "sucked" as much or worse?
I am still made fun of my chaos space marine skimmer I made a long time ago so again, you are in good company.

Please try your best smoothing out all the rough patches of a model, the paint picks up on that no matter what you do.

Do you like bright or dark models?
That decides white or black primer, grey if you cannot decide.

A good "cheat" is to black prime then a quick shot of white from above the model slightly toward the front of the model.
This is called "Zenithal highlighting", good results, less effort.

Do you paint straight out of the pot?
Sometimes it is best to put some on a pallet (plate, whatever) and add some water so it goes on smoother.

We could get into too many techniques out there that are easily looked up, I tried to provide for the starting point that largely determines your method of painting.

Your red for instance can start with a deep almost purple and build-up.
Then the choice of a more fiery red with some orange edging or more blood with flesh / brown edging.

It really will boil down to practice.
I started out painting a squad at a time.
After squad #3 I wanted to go back and re-do #1.
You really learn that fast by doing.

Good luck and do not be hard on yourself: I would rather see your models than the bare plastic ones I usually face.

**ninjafiredragon**

Thanks for the helps.

Yes I paint pretty much out of the pot, I don't really have a good pallet, the makeshift one I try to use dries out the paint really easily.
How would you recommend smoothing out the model?
I think for these guys I would likrvthem darker. I did a black undercoat on him.

**Talizvar**

Well, for a "wet" pallet, this works pretty good:

The trick is the parchment paper lets the water in but keeps the paint from running off.
Added benefit you can close it up and the paint stays good for days.
It looks like the paint being too thick can give a "blobby" appearance which would be the main issue.
As you go to runnier paint, the good preparation of the model will be more important.
What paint brand are you using?
Some have more challenges than others.

"Smoothing" can be helped with this video:

Many of these sanding sponges can be found in the ladies nail care stuff.
It may be cheaper than a specific hobby file and have better buffing pads for a smooth finish.
The other techniques are a bit much but it is there.

Since you like Eldar, they have many round surfaces that are harder to file.
Here is a home made tool for sanding round surfaces:

My first model at 12 yrs old was a Spitfire.
My older cousin showed me how to run a strip of sandpaper over the fuselage bond to make the join smooth.
Ask at your local hobby shop if anyone is really good at models and see if they will teach.
Most people love the hobby and are happy to show many techniques.

Automatically Appended Next Post:
Looking real close at your models again:
It looks like your brighter color is going into recesses like a wash.
Try "block" painting the entire surface slightly brighter than the finished color you want.
Take a fairly wet darker red paint and cover the surfaces, especially in recesses.
After drying, take a brighter color and pick out raised top edges to highlight them.
Imagine if you would shine a bright light down on a model, what are the brightest spots?
This guy is more wordy than I am but makes the point of where to highlight:

Good luck.

**ninjafiredragon**

Thanks so much @Talizvar
The tips are really helpfull.
I think I have heard somewhere wax paper also works as a sub in for parchment paper, is this true?

**Inflatable love badger**

I've heard bad things about using wax paper, something about being too smooth and the wax sometimes coming off? But never used anything other than baking paper so could be wrong.

**Talizvar**

Wax paper is somewhat waterproof.
That is why it was the wrap of choice before Ziploc bags during the age of brown bag lunches.
The parchment paper is just fine enough to let water in but keep paint on the surface.
I know it is usually easier to use the supplies at hand.
Just get whomever does the shopping to get it.
I also wrap stuff and cook in that paper so it is tough stuff.
<edit> Not sure if you knew, it is inexpensive and in grocery store near where the mentioned wax paper is.

**bocatt**

Yeah I can testify, just go buy some baker's paper (not butcher's paper) from the local market
I use that, a small tupperware tub and paper towel as my "sponge"
It's disposable and cheap which is nice and keeps my paints good for a week+
I might upgrade my makeshift wet palette, but for now, it works just fine

**ninjafiredragon**

Sounds good. Ill ask said shopper to pick some up for me.
Started painting the 2nd model, already like the looks of it better.

Also, no one has really answered my other question, would these be acceptable conversions for the Skitarii Dragoons?

**Talizvar**

ninjafiredragon wrote:
Also, no one has really answered my other question, would these be acceptable conversions for the Skitarii Dragoons?

It really would depend on your opponent.

Every conversion has a potential for issues but "rule of cool" tends to apply: The more work put into and good looking something is, the more likely to be accepted.
A successful conversion I look at the "main elements" of what I am trying to substitute:
- Guy with big lance-like weapon (yep!)
- "Chicken walker" looking ride (yep!).
- Seated / braced rider working the ride (not quite).

Critique:
I personally would be a bit worried for the guy "surfing" on the roof getting knocked off when he lances a target.
A seated position a little closer to the ground would have been ideal so it looks like he can actually hit a target.
The means of controlling the walker is not as apparent as well.
<edit> You could have made use of the Eldar seat or replaced that area with something else.
Swapping out the lance tip for a tuning-fork kind of end would help tie-in the original model look, but this is being fussy.

Good points:
The rider has a similar archaic look as the ranger type driver.
I think it was the right idea to try to have the rider at the top of the vehicle since that is how the original model was done.
I probably would have found a way to sink part of a bike chassis into the hull as an idea (there are many options).
The red is a good tie-in with the typical red of mechanicus.
It would have to be a truly "blasphemous" mechanicus adept to make something like this work so the story could be interesting.
Never mind how upset the Eldar would get, the Loota Orks would be in awe...

I think the initial idea is REALLY good, I had not thought of it.
I know it is a fictional universe so trying to make something "realistic" could be silly but this configuration as it stands your pilot is like Don Quixote.
See link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Don_Quixote The crazy guy who would attack windmills thinking he was a knight attacking monsters.

**ninjafiredragon**

Spoiler:

Talizvar wrote:
ninjafiredragon wrote:
Also, no one has really answered my other question, would these be acceptable conversions for the Skitarii Dragoons?
It really would depend on your opponent.

Every conversion has a potential for issues but "rule of cool" tends to apply: The more work put into and good looking something is, the more likely to be accepted.
A successful conversion I look at the "main elements" of what I am trying to substitute:
- Guy with big lance-like weapon (yep!)
- "Chicken walker" looking ride (yep!).
- Seated / braced rider working the ride (not quite).

Critique:
I personally would be a bit worried for the guy "surfing" on the roof getting knocked off when he lances a target.
A seated position a little closer to the ground would have been ideal so it looks like he can actually hit a target.
The means of controlling the walker is not as apparent as well.
<edit> You could have made use of the Eldar seat or replaced that area with something else.
Swapping out the lance tip for a tuning-fork kind of end would help tie-in the original model look, but this is being fussy.

Good points:
The rider has a similar archaic look as the ranger type driver.
I think it was the right idea to try to have the rider at the top of the vehicle since that is how the original model was done.
I probably would have found a way to sink part of a bike chassis into the hull as an idea (there are many options).
The red is a good tie-in with the typical red of mechanicus.
It would have to be a truly "blasphemous" mechanicus adept to make something like this work so the story could be interesting.
Never mind how upset the Eldar would get, the Loota Orks would be in awe...

I think the initial idea is REALLY good, I had not thought of it.
I know it is a fictional universe so trying to make something "realistic" could be silly but this configuration as it stands your pilot is like Don Quixote.
See link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Don_Quixote The crazy guy who would attack windmills thinking he was a knight attacking monsters.

Thx for the critiques.
Will have to see what I can do for a seat type item.
He is able to stay standing because of the grav boots. Duh

Just kidding haha