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So I've started to paint my bolter guys to test out colors and techniques, and Ive got a color scheme decided on, and possibly a style.



Now I know it's not traditional, but it's starting to grow on me. It's mainly inspired by relief art and some dry brushing stuff I've seen here and there. I'm wondering though, what causes the effect of the paint "flaking" off, even though it's not actually coming off (you can kinda see it n the right marines shoulder pad). Is it because I'm not watering down some of my layers? If I'm dry brushing, can I still water down the paint some to relieve this issue? Because I love the effect I have going on, but iI'd rather it be a little smoother instead of looking like something that popped out of Nurgles donkey-cave.

I like the scheme.

Yes, the texture is due to thick paint.

You can indeed drybrush with thinner paints, you just need two brushes. One to add some water to your palette, one to drybrush with. Trying to drybrush with a slightly damp brush will give you a very different result.

At the moment the bolters look very similar to the torso and helmet of the marine, maybe bump one of those up a little? Could be the photo not picking up colours.

Nice. Thank you for the tip. I've also seen people put their paints on a wet pallet (some paper towels). I haven't tried it yet because of all the issues I've had because I wasn't using two brushes to thin my paint (and I think I've been adding too much water) so I thought thinning/getting the paint wet was a no-no when dry brushing. But I will definitely be trying two brushes and I think a little less water to see how smooth I can get it.

I think getting some of the base on the chest, then doing the silver over it may make the chest pop a little more. I'll try it out.

I would personally use a wash to help bring the colours together and tone down the drybrushing but either way I like the scheme.

Whilst I'm no expert, I don't mind sharing with you that in my experience dry brushing marines is not a good idea. There's not enough variation in the surface textures to make the technique work as well as it does on things like fur, scales and chainmail. I would base paint all the different colours, wash, repaint with base colours leaving the recesses. Then use layer paints to lighten the more exposed areas of armour and then line highlight the edges.

I think it works in this case, because mrs timpson said they're aiming for "relief art". They're kinda little terracotta marines, I'm picturing wall tiles and carvings.

I do think a little more colour in the mix could really make things like eyes and details pop, but it's a scheme that doesn't need overloading with different colours.

However if you do want smoother outcomes after this initial test, give some pictures of the sort of real world colours you'd like to end up with, and there'll be an endless supply of folk here who could help you work out how to get them onto the marines.

no no no no

ok drybrushing has DRY in the name please do not thin the paint. instead reduce the amount of paint you are using to almost nonexistent.

it appears you are drybrushing a thick amount of paint of a light color over a dark undercoat/prime/base of some sort. the only time i have ever drybrushed flat surfaces was a long time ago painting black templar. it was a quick way to add a hue to the armor other than black without having to go through heavy shading/glazes etc.

drybrushing a flat surface is not really used to "cover" but more "accent" if thats making any sense

if i were to directly give advice on how to improve the shoulder pads in particular it would be to drag your brush from the center of the shoulder pad to the outside of the pad but always pull this way at an angle so that you leave a gap at the raised part of the pad. doing this will create a uniform line and look better imo. you can do this with the helm as well wth the little mowhawk part.

giving painting advice is very hard online... especially without really good pics

relief art, are you attempting to add texture to flat surfaces to mimic this art style? as was prev mentioned, drybrushing marines does not really work too well



OOOOOOOOOOH yah also this parts important - any part of a model you can NOT assemble and then paint and put on later DOOOOOOOO IT. two reasons.

- if you mess up a small part for say a showcase model or your version of your best work, only that part is "ruined"
- it allows you to get into the tough areas and even prime dif parts dif colors

I'm currently painting a biel-tan eldar army and i can prime my helms a grey primer and the bodys a white. my falcons/wave serps are not even CLOSE to assembled. virtually everything on that model is in pieces. makes life much easier and your "bolter guys" (tactical marines :p) can have anything from shoulder pads to guns not glued on. when you are going to prime the part, use a sticky tac or some sort of tape at the part that will get glue or what i do is simply scrape the primer off which also helps with the adhesion

Saw these in my travels and thought of this topic.

Weathering powders, I'd assume.

Slightly closer (click either to zoom).

I tried to get the painting credit in the photo, if you're wondering why the weird angles.

If you want to know how to make a flaking effect use get a sponge and dab it in a bit of paint ,take the sponge and work the paint into the sponge using a piece of dry paper.Slowly dab the sponge on places where flaking would happen eg.edges.