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Made in gb
Beard Squig




Hi guys!

First of all if the post is duplicated let me know to remove it.

I present myself: my name's Daniel. I used to paint Warhammer's miniatures (and also from Lotr) a long long time ago.
Recently I've watched some videos from a youtube channel called Warhammer TV (the official GW one) and the interest for this hobby came up again.

I'd like to re-paint my old miniatures but after many years retired, I can see a lot of new things. The other day I went to a GW store and they had paints for layer, shades... even for texture! (especially those ones were amazing).

So I'm here to ask you a bit more about paints.

I have bought 3 kind of paints (https://dl2.pushbulletusercontent.com/TcBOJpV3wsuDgUG0wdBClEihJdwyHosI/IMG_20170105_185430.jpg):
- metallic Citadel colour: £2.55
- Crafter's choice acrylic tube: £1
- WHSmith tube set: £8 - 10ml each

Also I've heard about other brands and I'd like to know your thoughts:
- Delta Ceramcoat
- American paints
- P3
- Reaper

Some questions:
- What is the main difference between these paints and why is Citadel/Vallejo more recommended than the rest?
- Could I use a normal acrylic paint to painting and the Citadel/Vallejo special one (metallic, primer, texture...) for the rest?
- How do I know if a paint/brand has more "pigment quality"? Why is this important if I like the colour applied on the miniature?

If you know some store to order online or for collection as well it would be awesome (I'm based in London).


Thank you so much in advance for your help!!

Daniel

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2017/01/05 19:19:21


 
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





First off...with enough skill and time you can paint a model using damn near anything.

Now, in the pursuit of ease-of-use...most people stick to paint lines which are specifically created for use on miniature figurines (P3, GW, Vallejo, etc.). Simply because these come in a consistency intended for use on figures.

A lot of the craft paints (such as your others) are fine, but are often a much thicker consistency, intended for painting on canvas or painting wood craft boxes, etc. You can thin this stuff down enough to use it, but that's entirely up to you. One of the keys to painting is to use thin layers, keeping a smooth consistency which aids in coverage and drying --- it won't leave heavy streaks etc.

In addition, the biggest difference is the range of paints - many lines, such as Vallejo may have 250+ different colours, and GW (while a bit expensive) makes nice paints and they have entire lines set up to work with each other --- one paint for a base coat, another matching paint for highlights etc.

Add to this that you may run into issues getting the same craft paint on a consistent basis and you can see why a lot of people generally stuck to purpose developed paints for miniature painting.
   
Made in gb
Beard Squig




Thanks for your answer Elbows.


I understand that there are a lot of people who like to paint miniatures following tutorials or schema of colours and it's normal that they want to use the exactly the same colours to have exactly the same miniature.
In my case I don't mind if one red is more red than the next one. Also I can mix colours (funnier, isn't it?).

I don't know if you saw the picture attached but it says "suitable for a variety of surfaces". So maybe it's not just for canvas (at least these ones).

Anyway, if there is no problem to use these paints I think I'll give them a chance. But as I said just for base colours (normal ones).


Cheers!



Automatically Appended Next Post:
I just found this:
http://artuk.royalbrushstore.com/products/productdetail/WAT18+-+ESSENTIALS+WATER+COLOUR+18+PK/part_number=WAT18/201.1.4.3.1007542.67809.0.0.0?pp=12&
http://artuk.royalbrushstore.com/p/oil18-essentials-oil-18-pk?pp=12
http://artuk.royalbrushstore.com/p/gou18-essentials-gouache-18pk?pp=12

What's the different between water, oil and gouache?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/01/05 21:50:33


 
   
Made in us
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Oil, water, and gauche are different paint bases, basically. Watercolor is very runny, and basically those paints in the tray you had as a kid. Oil base will probably work but require thinner for cleanup, as they don't dissolve in water. Gauche I have no idea, might be the super thick "art" paints with heavy texture like for canvas. Basically, not what you want. If you're worried about getting it local, try testors at michaels etc, though this is oil base and will need thinner, its designed for models.
   
Made in ca
Cackling Chaos Conscript






Oil, watercolor and gouache are types of fine art paint, such as for use on paper or canvas. None of those are really what you want for painting models.

The old-school model paints such as Testors are enamels. While they can be thinned or cleaned with thinner/turpentine like artist's oil paints, they're not really the same thing. While they work just fine on models or miniatures, most miniature painters abandoned them long ago because they're a pain to work with (they're toxic, require paint thinner to clean up and take a while to dry).

Almost all miniature paints are acrylics. This includes all brands you've probably heard of, such as Games Workshop (aka Citadel), Vallejo, P3, Army Painter, Coat d'Arms, etc. So-called "craft paint" like you might find at a department store is also acrylic. Acrylics are so popular because they're easy to use - they thin down and clean up with water, will dry in 10-15 minutes and are usually non-toxic. Artists also work with acrylic paint for much the same reasons. Artist acrylics are usually fairly thick and sold in tubes, while craft paint and miniature paints usually come in a pot or dropper bottle.

The difference between craft store acrylic paint, artist acrylics and miniature paint come down to the different formulas of acrylic binding agent they use, and also how the pigments in the paint are ground and mixed. Miniature paint has acrylic base that is formulated to be as durable as possible, to help the paint stand up to being handled when you pick up and play with your figures. They also tend to have finely-ground pigments, so the paint will stay smooth if you thin it down a lot. Artist acrylics will usually have fine pigments, but the acrylic that holds the paint together isn't formulated to protect against handling (how many times do you pick up a painting compared to a miniature?). Craft paints can be a mixed bag - some companies have perfectly fine acrylic and pigments, while others will try to cheap out to cut costs.

All these types of acrylic paints can be used to paint miniatures, you just need to keep in mind the differences. You can certainly do most painting with craft paint and use miniature brands for more specialized stuff like metallics and washes, but you'll probably need to thin down the paint a little more since most craft paints are thicker out of the bottle. Artist acrylics can work too (I've seen it done) but keep in mind that you may need to do more afterwards to protect the paint from handling (such as extra clearcoats over top). Most people prefer miniature paints because they're already formulated for the job and therefore more convenient.

Citadel paints are popular because they're an easy match for lots of existing color schemes in the game, and their base/layer/shade system makes it easy to know what paint to use for what technique. Vallejo is another popular option because they have a huge range of paints available and are less expensive than Citadel. The good news is you can easily mix and match between different acrylic paint ranges - I have some models that have Vallejo, Army painter, P3 and Citadel paints on them just to get the color or effect I want. Which black I use is usually dependent on which is closest to me on the desk at the time

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/01/07 01:28:22


 
   
Made in us
Ultramarine Land Raider Pilot on Cruise Control





Macragge

In addition to whats already been said here, I think it's worth noting that the citadel base colors -- especially red and yellow -- are very well designed to put down a strong color with just one or two coats. Much easier to work with than even Vallejo or P3 in my opinion. Also, Army painter has a nice range as well. You can usually find these on ebay if you can't find a store that sells them online.

   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





The biggest reason I find not to use oils and enamels is the slow drying times. Oils are awesome for blending, but you have to wait a loooong time for them to dry. Here's a tutorial on using oils, he still applied a coloured undercoat in acrylic but then built up all the shades, highlights and bulk colours using oils...

https://youtu.be/XmOmJTlaqnc?t=40m11s

That said, if you're just trying for a good "basic" job, acrylics are good for 95% of the job.

Since I have an airbrush I find a good technique is to do some rough shading/highlighting with the airbrush then come back with oils to do my final shading. So for example, I'll airbrush a Blood Angel and he'll look like this...

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/828836-.html

I then apply a dark brown (almost black) oil paint directly in to the crevices, clean off my brush then use a stippling motion to blend the oil shading in with the acrylic base coat, producing a result that looks like this (with much deeper shadows than you achieve with the airbrush)....

http://www.dakkadakka.com/core/gallery-viewimage.jsp?i=835703&m=2&w=800

And I actually used water soluble oil paints for that, so I didn't need to use any harsh chemicals.

It's a relatively time consuming way of painting though, took me probably about an hour and a half just to do the red on 1 Terminator.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/01/07 02:01:51


 
   
 
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