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still gotta find a way to properly do the gold......

Nice. Try a brown ink/wash on the golds. Highlight all the way back up up to silver if you want it extra-sparkly.

Love what you did on the sword.

In Reaper MSP paint terms, Looks as if you almost used only New Gold (bright yellow) for your gold, and not enough Antique Gold? You have the sword NMM down, and, for the gold, you're going to need a highlight color to serve as the reflected parts of the metal.

Yeah I need to highlight but the main problem is an on existant base coat. Tried sun yellow from valejo to base coat the gold but it does NOT want to stick

The problem seems to be the blue bleeding into the other colors.

Id personally go over the non blue parts in black and then whatever metallic gold you would normally do.

im assuming its tamaya clear blue or something right?

that gak drys glossy.

you may need to hit the whole thing with mat or semi mat varnish before trying a new layer by hairy stick



love the sword btw

About to do some red and gold grey knights though thinking about doing the red over gold and then masking the gold. But I'd need a paintable masking agent......

gendoikari87 wrote:
About to do some red and gold grey knights though thinking about doing the red over gold and then masking the gold. But I'd need a paintable masking agent......

Valljeo liquid mask is very nice

but it wrecks brushes so use your crappy ones.

 Desubot wrote:

gendoikari87 wrote:
About to do some red and gold grey knights though thinking about doing the red over gold and then masking the gold. But I'd need a paintable masking agent......

Valljeo liquid mask is very nice

but it wrecks brushes so use your crappy ones.

dont know if my local stores have it. Can liquid green stuff be used or would that strip the paint? I know my local shop has that

gendoikari87 wrote:

 Desubot wrote:

gendoikari87 wrote:
About to do some red and gold grey knights though thinking about doing the red over gold and then masking the gold. But I'd need a paintable masking agent......

Valljeo liquid mask is very nice

but it wrecks brushes so use your crappy ones.

dont know if my local stores have it. Can liquid green stuff be used or would that strip the paint? I know my local shop has that

That is not what that is for liquid green stuff would probably wreck your model.

they have valljeo liquid mask on amazon and stuff.

gendoikari87 wrote:
still gotta find a way to properly do the gold......

Ha!
Same gosh-darn problem I had years ago where I was upset my CSM metallic trim could not get a sharp enough looking edge and looked blobby.

Block paint the miniature a slightly darker colour in non-metallic first, then coat it in metallic.
I would suggest also doing shades, everything like you were planning to paint non-metallic prior to.

Metallics tend to be fairly transparent or the metal flakes would not show up very well.
I promise, you do this and it will look ace.

Honestly they should just have a bunch of flakes in a clear medium and then you tint with an acrylic ink to suit.

The ONLY time I would use a wash after applying the metallics is rough surfaces: chainmail, anywhere you do not want recesses to be reflective.

<edit> Gold specifically, paint the base with like a scorched brown, basically a very dark brown.
Edge highlight with a lighter brown (leather-ish), hit it with the gold metallic (not "shining" or "burnished" gold, less yellow) then.
A brown sepia wash in particular with the eagle on the chest and then tiny edge highlights of silver along upper light catching surfaces.

<edit-edit> I noticed the gold paint is flowing a little too well, you may want to have it a bit more dry and perform a bit more of a drybrush with it.
Having it all pool into the cracks is working against you: all the raised surfaces that should shine are blue.

<even more edit> WHITE the bane of some. It can tend to look chalky when going to the full oh-my-goodness-titanium-white. Do you want a more old look or new? Old: paint a light brown or cream first. New: paint a middle grey (some blue to it) then the white. I find for both white and black you need to go a few shades back to grey or you cannot show shadows very well.

<you know...> So you are using airbrush... you are doing very well (braver than I am, I use it for block painting not details), you will need to mask a bit better to prevent the overspray.
The non-metal painting first will also help reduce the look of this.

That should do it.

If thats the Tamiya clear blue then yes getting other colours to cover it can be a pain, I've found two solutions for my 15th legion (red not blue, but the same problem).

1. use a brush on primer, for gold something like black or a dark brown would be best, it won't cover completely, indeed it will cover terribly, but let it cure over night and your gold stands a decent chance

2. use a layer of gold as above, whatever your base gold is, let it cure then apply another over it, thinned to avoid obscuring detail until you get the coverage you need.

Gold on this guy



is just the GW gold base (something Armour IIRC?) in two coats over the red which is airbrushed over the whole model, then the brown wash GW do and highlighted from there.


Loving the blue on yours that really works wonderfully but the gold is letting it down, you won't cure it wish washes, you need a suitable base colour to obscure the blue totally, two layers of a GW base gold should do it fine and with the rest of the models you've done seriously make them pop

That sword is awesome! Mini looks good! Is the sword done with an airbrush or what?

 Drummernathan wrote:
That sword is awesome! Mini looks good! Is the sword done with an airbrush or what?

yes. Cards on the table I'm a horrible painter. This is just what an airbrush can do for you. Base coat of aluminum with nuln oil wash. Then tamiya clear coat over top. Sword was just masking tape using the airbrush to go from white to yellow then orange red and black repeat in opposite direction on the other side

Better updated pictures, and also putting these guys up on ebay soon.