Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

so i got myself some new models and i wanted to up my painting a bit and this is what came out of it

the garlequin is a refrence on how i painted my first models (still quiet new to painting)

That is a definite improvement! Well done sir! Don't be afraid to use washes as well if you haven't tried them they're good for shading under armor plates and all sorts of stuff.

A few immediate tips that will help.

1) Do edge highlights with the side of the brush, not the point. You just want to catch the raised 'corner' of detail. I can see in the top image you've apparently used the point of a not very pointy brush. Leads on to some other points below:

2) Get decent brushes and look after them. A decent brush has and holds a sharp point. Don't get hung up on size (I do pupils on eyes with a 1) - it's the point that matters most. Good brands - Winsor & Newton Series 7 (excellent, expensive), Rosemary & Co 3000 (very good, cheaper), WAMP (excellent), Broken Toad (seem to be excellent). Don't let paint get to the ferrule. Use a brush soap at the end of a session. Don't get superglue on it.

3) Use the right brush for the right job. Longer bristles make doing lines easier. Shorter bristles make controlling small details easier. A wide tip makes covering broad flat areas smoothly easier.

4) When you do a highlight that's too broad, or too bright, or you want to turn it into a gradient rather than a block, don't be afraid to go over it with the base colour to tone it down and adjust it.

5) Have fun - and remember to finish a figure now and then. It's all well and good just practicing techniques, but these things almost never look right in isolation and it's only when you've finished a model (including getting it based) that you know what it'll really look like. Plus, that's the rewarding bit.

I think Winterdyne's advice is excellent. I would just add:
- if you can buy the brushes in a shop, rather than online, you'll be able to check that there's no fraying or curved tip. Quality brands pack their brushes neatly, and have good quality control, but I think you still get better brushes if you can sort through a wide selection before making your purchase
- for edge highlighting, it's indeed easier to use the side of the brush. I actually find it easier if I shape the brush like a chisel (so a bit flat) rather than with a round tip like you normally would