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Made in it
Skink Armed with a Blowpipe




Italy

I just finished my first two XV25 with my first real attempt to use NMM technique. Looking at the model seems that the lights are coming from all the directions, without any logic. Can someone explain me how to make this NMM more realistic or at least "logic" ?

Thank you
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- I was born too late - 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




U.k

Can’t help with the NMM but I can say I like that model. Looks good to me.
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block





He looks fantastic honestly. The lighting does seem a little all over but we can chalk that up to the highly reflective desert world he is scouting, yes? The only "fix" I can think is to darken in some of the spots to bring the directional effect in. My friend likes to take a high lumem lamp and hold it near his model and take a couple pictures, that way he has a reference for the shadows.
   
Made in it
Skink Armed with a Blowpipe




Italy

Andykp wrote:Can’t help with the NMM but I can say I like that model. Looks good to me.


Thank you, I was happy when I finshed this model, but after a while I got this idea of multi lighting that started to devour me

SkylarkR6 wrote:He looks fantastic honestly. The lighting does seem a little all over but we can chalk that up to the highly reflective desert world he is scouting, yes? The only "fix" I can think is to darken in some of the spots to bring the directional effect in. My friend likes to take a high lumem lamp and hold it near his model and take a couple pictures, that way he has a reference for the shadows.


Thanks for the suggestion i will try. Maybe i'll be able to to better understand how to direction the light on NMM surfaces.
I agree I can use the justification of the desert's reflection, if someone ask

Other ideas?

- I was born too late - 
   
Made in gb
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine






Northumberland

Firstly - that's a fantastic looking effort, well done!

As for NMM, I'm not in a position to tell you from experience (I rarely try NMM in any major way), but from what I gather, you should imagine a single, main source of light outside of OSL spot lighting. For the most part, this is going to be the sun. With your imagined point of light set, you next need to imagine how it'll catch the armour points. In the case of the sun, this'll usually be from directly above, or from an overhead offset to the right or left.

With regards to your model then, if you look at the highlights of the orange chest piece and the cannon in particular on the 1st photo, you have the lightest part of the chest at the top (Indicating an overhead source of light) but then the cannon's lightest point is from the direct left - indicating not only a different source of light, but also that the chest-piece's source isn't affecting the cannon reflections. Tying together the light sources in a common direction then, should help the overall effect.

All that said, I'll gladly stand corrected by anyone with more experience of NMM.

Now with 100% more blog: 'Beyond the Wall'

Numine Et Arcu
 
   
Made in it
Skink Armed with a Blowpipe




Italy

 Warpig1815 wrote:
Firstly - that's a fantastic looking effort, well done!

As for NMM, I'm not in a position to tell you from experience (I rarely try NMM in any major way), but from what I gather, you should imagine a single, main source of light outside of OSL spot lighting. For the most part, this is going to be the sun. With your imagined point of light set, you next need to imagine how it'll catch the armour points. In the case of the sun, this'll usually be from directly above, or from an overhead offset to the right or left.

With regards to your model then, if you look at the highlights of the orange chest piece and the cannon in particular on the 1st photo, you have the lightest part of the chest at the top (Indicating an overhead source of light) but then the cannon's lightest point is from the direct left - indicating not only a different source of light, but also that the chest-piece's source isn't affecting the cannon reflections. Tying together the light sources in a common direction then, should help the overall effect.

All that said, I'll gladly stand corrected by anyone with more experience of NMM.


Thank you very much for the help! I guess you are right, I should orientate all the lighting reflection in the same way. I guess that i need to assemble the whole model before paint it. This one is done by making all the parts separatly.

- I was born too late - 
   
Made in gb
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine






Northumberland

@Bearblu - Ahh, that may be the cause of a lot of your grief then. Sub-assembly is great for getting to all the little bits and bobs on the model, but with NMM you have to be super careful that the overall effect ties in. That's not to say it can't be done, but take your time to dry fit the parts at intervals in your painting, to ensure it's consistent. Glad my last comment helped - good luck with your further attempts

Now with 100% more blog: 'Beyond the Wall'

Numine Et Arcu
 
   
Made in us
Ship's Officer





Dallas, TX

have you tried priming your model in thin black, then lightly air brush it with mid grey from your choice of angle? If your model require sub assembly, then simply tac or pin them in place for this part and you should see where the shades and highlights are. Apply color using the gradient background as a guideline for highlights.
   
Made in it
Skink Armed with a Blowpipe




Italy

Warpig1815 wrote:@Bearblu - Ahh, that may be the cause of a lot of your grief then. Sub-assembly is great for getting to all the little bits and bobs on the model, but with NMM you have to be super careful that the overall effect ties in. That's not to say it can't be done, but take your time to dry fit the parts at intervals in your painting, to ensure it's consistent. Glad my last comment helped - good luck with your further attempts


Thank you

Big Mac wrote:have you tried priming your model in thin black, then lightly air brush it with mid grey from your choice of angle? If your model require sub assembly, then simply tac or pin them in place for this part and you should see where the shades and highlights are. Apply color using the gradient background as a guideline for highlights.


Unfortunately I do not have airbrush, do you think i can do this with GW sprays?

- I was born too late - 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

You can, but it isn't as subtle
   
Made in ca
Speed Drybrushing





t.dot

There are a couple of things you need to keep in mind when executing NMM.

First and foremost, lighting. As it has already been mentioned, you need to establish and keep your lighting consistent. Whether it's one source, two, or many more, as a painter, you need to figure out where you want a model to be lit from, and how, and keep it consistent throughout the model. I recommend starting with one strong light source, and then as you become more practiced with NMM, you can experiment with multiple.

The second is contrast. I'd recommend doing a quick Google search on "knight armor" for a point of reference. Take a look at the lights and shadows, and notice just how extreme it moves in values from light to dark. The brightest points are almost invariable white, and the darkest points reach not always black, but an extreme dark, depending on the environment. One of the tricks to selling NMM is the contrast. Putting a bright highlight next to a dark shadow really helps communicate the "texture" (that is, the reflectiveness) of the armor. The degree of transition will also really depend on how reflective you want the armor. Compare something that is quite matte (like brushed metal) versus a highly reflective metal like chrome. You will see that a matte metal tends to have softer transitions, while chrome is very hard, with very defined jumps between light and dark.

Third is reflective light. Obviously, metal reflects. And not just light, but what's around it. Metal objects will capture and reflect light and color bouncing off of materials around it, and you can capture that with secondary highlights and playing around with color values so that a silver metal isn't necessarily just "grey".

Consider this cylinder.


We have a single light source shining light directly onto our object. The light will reflect strongest on planes that directly face the light source, and then transition to shadows as the planes angle away from the light. We must also consider the environment (sky, ground, and external objects) and the light that they reflect from the light source onto the object. It should be noted that these reflective lights act as light sources themselves, but unless they also emit light (or are 100% reflective), the light they cast onto the object will never be as strong as the light source itself.

When we add color into it:


If our light source is the sun (which emits a yellow light), our highlights as a result of that will have a yellow tone to them. The reflective light from the sky is blue, and from the grass is green. Our object, which is purple/pink, will reflect a purple/pink tone.

So you can see how a grey metal can be all manner of color based on the light that is reflecting from the environment and objects around it. The closer the source of the light is, and the degree of reflectiveness of the object (and objects casting it) will determine the strength of that color.

Lastly, consider your model as an example. I've done a quick Photoshop pass on it to show how you could strengthen some of your lights and shadows, and add/removing lights and shadows to better showcase the NMM effect. I've indicated the primary source of light.

Also note that the closer the object is to the light source, the stronger the highlight. The helmet and collar are brighter than the gun barrel, which in turn is brighter than the foot.

Hopefully that helps. Keep experimenting, and when in doubt, Google for references!

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2018/08/09 19:38:24


   
Made in it
Skink Armed with a Blowpipe




Italy


wow man...I think that a simple thank you is not enough for your super detailed explanation! I will copy and paste your post in my painting archive
Also i really would like to thank you for the photoshop, it really helps me to understand the light on NMM

- I was born too late - 
   
Made in ca
Speed Drybrushing





t.dot

You're very welcome!

Just remember that metal is a surface like everything else, and reflects light just like everything else. It just reflects it more because of the material, and this means understanding light and reflection (and keeping your light source(s) fixed in your mind while painting) is very important!

   
Made in it
Skink Armed with a Blowpipe




Italy

Here I am, back on NMM with the last XV 25.
I have tried to follow your suggestions at best, trying to keep in mind where is the light source and using a LED to light up the model.

I don't like the NMM effect on the body, what do you think about the light now? I have tought of two light source one from front-above and one back-above. I know i should start with one source but i couldn't resist to have more

Hope you like it!

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- I was born too late - 
   
 
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