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Trying to match up the rivets on a leman russ and trying to find an exact match.

Anyone done this and can tell me what size and brand rivets you used?

Two suggestions.

First, would be punching plasticard from the back. Something like a pin or paperclip, maybe even a finishing nail. The idea is that you create a raised “bubble” on the opposite side.

The other, would be to search for *tiny* bearings, or steel shot maybe. You’d have to countersink the plastic, to have the bearing / shot sit halfway through the plastic.

I would t have any idea as to specific size, but that would probably work to mimic the rivets.

For larger rivets I use the rounded heads of brass tacks, cut them, drill a bit into the plastic and sink the cut end ofthe tack in.

For smaller rivets I've tried a bunch of ideas, but the latest has been 1mm nail decorating things, they're dome bits of plastic, perfect for gluing to a surface. A little hard to work with since they're so small though.

I have enjoyed the products of Tichy Train Group.

https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_nbw--rivets/Default.aspx

If you give me a few days, I might get a chance to compare some of the sizes I have, to an actual Leman Russ.

I don't have a Leman Russ to take measurements from - do you (or anyone else with the model handy) happen to have calipers? Hard to give exact recommendations without knowing the size you need.

Personally, I don't think you can beat the look of countersunk spheres, when emulating dome-headed rivets. For smaller rivets, I've had good luck using microbeads from the scrapbooking section at craft stores. There's some slight variability in sizing, but only slight - barely noticeable, even under close scrutiny. Didn't bother grabbing the digital calipers, but eyeballing with a ruler puts them right around 1mm diameter, perhaps a hair under. Larger than that, I dig through my small collection of ball bearings. Broken drawer runners are a goldmine - if they were cheap and light-duty, you can usually find a decent number of loose balls around 1/16" or 3/32". Sturdier ones will likely have larger caged balls at set intervals. You can also buy the balls new, but they generally go for a premium, what with all the engineering that goes into manufacturing to specifications we don't need. "Small and round" is good enough, so paying for exacting tolerances and quality metallurgy can be painful.

For the countersunk look, I have seen people take apart a Brita water filter (with take apart I mean; "Take the lid off of") and use the tiny pellets in divots made with a hobby drill.
You need to spend some time sorting the pellets, but when it comes to tiiiiny pellets, durable enough for painting, nothing beats the pellets from a Brita water filter.

Clipping the heads off sewing pins also works for rivets. Not sure if they're the right size for here, though. The straight bits of the sewing pins are also great for pinning small things.

If you need a perfect match for the Russ rivets, use a scalpel to slice them off other Russ parts. The obvious downside is finding other Russ parts (Buying another Russ just for this would be silly ) However some rivetty parts aren't normally visible on a complete Russ (e.g. I think the hull bottom has some) so you may be able to steal them from there.

Oh, and if you are scrounging fror second-hand parts, also consider Chiera parts, which i think have the same size rivets.

you want a set of modelling grainers. they're little punches that can can be use on aluminium or plasticard.
Hard to find as google thinks you mean 'trainers'.

Plastic finger nail art beads from ebay are awesome as rivets!

 bubber wrote:
you want a set of modelling grainers. they're little punches that can can be use on aluminium or plasticard.
Hard to find as google thinks you mean 'trainers'.

no luck on google, even making it use "grainers". You got a link?



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 Big H wrote:
Plastic finger nail art beads from ebay are awesome as rivets!

I tried looking for something like this in the art store. Couldn't find anything.

You got a link to specific ones you've used?

Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Big H wrote:
Plastic finger nail art beads from ebay are awesome as rivets!

I tried looking for something like this in the art store. Couldn't find anything.

You got a link to specific ones you've used?

 Big H wrote:
[size=9]
These are not the exact ones I got last time, I can't find the exact match as 1000 rivets lasts a fair while but are very similar,

You can get ones that stick with plastic cement if you're lucky, or super glue if not !

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1000-HALF-ROUND-IMITATION-PEARL-BEADS-FOR-NAIL-ART-CRAFTS-DECORATION/131299616588?hash=item1e9211274c:m:mCwPrPtvbW_itCAj6PSUP2w

Thanks for that, now I can see what I should be searching for. Much appreciated!

Question, I would prefer plastic cement, super glue is hard to work with. I found acrylic ones but I think you have to use super glue with those. You said there are some that you can use with plastic cement?


.

I picked up 2 silicon molds with 20 different size and type of rivets and nuts and bolts from Greenstuffworld.com and I just press in some Milliput or Green Stuff and they work great for the sizes I use I haven't used the smaller sizes you may want to get some of their Sculptor Vaseline too to keep the milliput or green stuff from sticking where you don't want. check out their video on it too.

http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/541-silicone-molds-rivets.html

you could also look at:
https://www.zinge.co.uk/collections/small-parts-forest-sprues/products/medium-1-5mm-round-head-rivet-sprue-x-100

or these (but all sold out atm):
https://www.zinge.co.uk/collections/flexible-resin/rivets

there's a few ideas here:
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94815-where-to-buy-a-rivet-punch-and-use-it-correctly/

I can't find a website for grainers atm sadly. i'll try to find mine so i can get a manufacturer's name & search from there.

found my grainers (also called beaders) but they don't have any markings on them, even a country of manufacture :( Sorry.

Did find my Band of Brothers Damien Lewis bust, so thanks for that!

Rivets that small are going to be really hard and punching them from the back on a separate piece of poly would work the best (NO Gluing small rivets just the plate their on.)

I find using .020 polystyrene with one of my pointy files works well but you can use anything that will give you the right size rivet your looking for. Just be careful not to punch all the way through.
Punching rivets will deform the card a bit but nothing that can't be straightened back out. Does not work so good on think plastic.

 bubber wrote:
found my grainers (also called beaders) but they don't have any markings on them, even a country of manufacture :( Sorry.

Did find my Band of Brothers Damien Lewis bust, so thanks for that!

LOL, glad to be of help. Thanks for looking though, never heard of that tool.


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 Bull Gunta Grimm Smakk wrote:
Rivets that small are going to be really hard and punching them from the back on a separate piece of poly would work the best (NO Gluing small rivets just the plate their on.)

I think this would be my problem, I mainly add rivets to thick plastic and punching probably wouldnt produce the best results for me.