Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Really pleased with this purchase and how it turned out. Have included unpainted, half way there and final outcome:


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Just need to touch up the base a little.

Looks good. One piece of advice, from the pics the bone and the bandages look the same color making it hard to tell which is which. I think it would look better if it was easier to tell them apart.

 KingGarland wrote:
Looks good. One piece of advice, from the pics the bone and the bandages look the same color making it hard to tell which is which. I think it would look better if it was easier to tell them apart.

Fair point. Will see what I can do!

It is probably the lighting, but it looks a bit too shiny.
It may want a slight highlight to the bones, to mucky-them up a bit.

 Skinnereal wrote:
It is probably the lighting, but it looks a bit too shiny.
It may want a slight highlight to the bones, to mucky-them up a bit.

That'll help distinguish them from the bandages, too. Thanks.

The plastic is quite soft and shiny. Which means it's great for transporting (and dropping!), but not as good as GW resin for painting. Still, for £3 I'm not complaining!

I'll touch up and photograph using the angle/location I normally use (as I have for the very first - unpainted - picture).

Really nice model. I agree with the above that differentiating bone and bandage would improve the base colors a lot. In addition, when painting skeletons (especially a ton of them) drybrushing is your best friend. Use some very light dusting of the same basecoat color you use over the raised surfaces while leaving wash in the recesses, will give you more of a visual pop as it mimics the way light falls on the model which appeals to the eye a lot.

The metallics on the swords are quite bumpy. Not sure if it's primer or needing more thin coats.

A quick tip for true metallic weapons that are meant to look worn and used, is basecoat in black, then drybrush with small amounts of metallic paints starting at the edges and working the way towards the center of the widest surface. Then apply spotty corrosion as desired. In the case of copper/brass/bronze it should be seafoam green and white. GW Nilikah (sp?) Oxide is for exactly that and looks superb. If you can find the stuff at your FLGS.

I'm no expert by any means but the idea here being that the whole weapon would be covered in black tarnish and colored oxidization, and only the sharpened/in-use edges would see the coats of corrosion removed. So the cutting part of the blade would be the shiniest (and could even use a quick pass of edge highlighting with a more gold color for added detail) and adjacent surfaces where the blade has caught on flesh or bone but aren't sharpened would be less shiny and the wide flat surfaces that aren't being touched relatively at all would be black or still rusted.

Side note: your ability to pick out the tiny details in alternating colors (turquoise and bronze) is superb. I've just now started picking back up that skill after months of painting (after a long break) and watching hours of painting tutorial videos.

Base done properly and model touched up a bit.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 bocatt wrote:
Really nice model. I agree with the above that differentiating bone and bandage would improve the base colors a lot. In addition, when painting skeletons (especially a ton of them) drybrushing is your best friend. Use some very light dusting of the same basecoat color you use over the raised surfaces while leaving wash in the recesses, will give you more of a visual pop as it mimics the way light falls on the model which appeals to the eye a lot.

The metallics on the swords are quite bumpy. Not sure if it's primer or needing more thin coats.

A quick tip for true metallic weapons that are meant to look worn and used, is basecoat in black, then drybrush with small amounts of metallic paints starting at the edges and working the way towards the center of the widest surface. Then apply spotty corrosion as desired. In the case of copper/brass/bronze it should be seafoam green and white. GW Nilikah (sp?) Oxide is for exactly that and looks superb. If you can find the stuff at your FLGS.

I'm no expert by any means but the idea here being that the whole weapon would be covered in black tarnish and colored oxidization, and only the sharpened/in-use edges would see the coats of corrosion removed. So the cutting part of the blade would be the shiniest (and could even use a quick pass of edge highlighting with a more gold color for added detail) and adjacent surfaces where the blade has caught on flesh or bone but aren't sharpened would be less shiny and the wide flat surfaces that aren't being touched relatively at all would be black or still rusted.

Side note: your ability to pick out the tiny details in alternating colors (turquoise and bronze) is superb. I've just now started picking back up that skill after months of painting (after a long break) and watching hours of painting tutorial videos.

Thanks for the kind words and the great tips, really appreciate it