Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I was *just* about to declare this big ol Decimator model of mine (that has taken months to build) ready to spray and paint, but... then these two pieces fell apart and, for the first time, refused to wedge into the other *and* stay put (with this model's arm full attached) 🤦‍♂️



I'm purely speaking about where the two separate pieces here join (around the hole 🕳 and the rod).

So, without a super great way to get these things to wedge reliably together unto infinatum, I am seeking another option.

First and foremost I can try to find magnet rings of the right size (discs not preferable but I suppose I could...), then carve away some indents for them to sit into around the joints between the two bits.

My issue with this is that I already have two magnets underneath one of the parts here (the elbow). You can them in the photo. So this causes an issue because 1) it might force these other magnets to unseat the one I try to glue into place over time and 2) magnetic fields are bad for people in the long term, and I'm pretty sure this would create a fairly 'active' one. So I'd like a better option.

The problem is, I have no other option really that I can think of which is viable. I can perpetually try to cram masking tape into it, but that's weak and temporary and is no permanent solution if I ever want to display it.

I can glue it but then I lose the rotation ability, but I've enjoyed this ability for long enough that I really am refusing to give that up right now.

I can try and add green stuff into the hole, then squeeze in the elbow's rod which I had covered with a waxy substance so the green stuff doesn't stick to try and fill in the hole and restore the 'wedge' capability, but that will probably also only be temporary if it works at all.

Telescope mounts or whatever are theoretically interesting, but I've certainly never heard of something that could work on this scale, let alone gracefully: https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2XEwV7m5X3o/V2JyLOkVLzI/AAAAAAAAksM/g9W2mqTWxQw5RiDRN1_Dnd3X_JB2NyduwCLcB/s1600/P1240127%2Brsz%2Bflange%2B.jpg

As far as any other idea... I've got nothing. Thus why I'm writing this here. Anyone else have any more clever ideas for this kind of thing?

 Netsurfer733 wrote:
2) magnetic fields are bad for people in the long term, and I'm pretty sure this would create a fairly 'active' one.

Unless you're planning to eat them, or use the model as a pillow, a couple of neodymium magnets are unlikely to be a problem.

Your two best options here would be to -
- glue a magnet inside the socket on the upper arm, and another into the top of the elbow piece.
or
- glue a plastic rod into the socket on the upper arm. Drill a corresponding sized hole into the top of the elbow piece, replacing the current moulded rod/protrusion. Poke the upper arm rod through the hole, make sure it has free movement, and then glue a disc of plasticard to the bottom of the rod only, making sure it doesn't stick to the elbow piece.

 insaniak wrote:

 Netsurfer733 wrote:
2) magnetic fields are bad for people in the long term, and I'm pretty sure this would create a fairly 'active' one.

Unless you're planning to eat them, or use the model as a pillow, a couple of neodymium magnets are unlikely to be a problem.

Your two best options here would be to -
- glue a magnet inside the socket on the upper arm, and another into the top of the elbow piece.
or
- glue a plastic rod into the socket on the upper arm. Drill a corresponding sized hole into the top of the elbow piece, replacing the current moulded rod/protrusion. Poke the upper arm rod through the hole, make sure it has free movement, and then glue a disc of plasticard to the bottom of the rod only, making sure it doesn't stick to the elbow piece.

Yeah admittedly I was not 100 % sure just how much of a problem gluing these magnets into opposing positions would be...if you think that really shouldn't be a long term issue then maybe I will open myself up to that.

As for the structural idea you have there, that sounds very interesting - and I have some nice 1mm brass rod that I could use for that. Except, if I'm just sticking a rod inside the hole and hoping it stays put/doesn't slide out from the top, aren't I just back to square one? What would stop it and the glued disc at the bottom from slipping out? (if I'm not picturing it right then I invite you to make a sketch lol)

From what they're saying,you'd be solidly gluing in one end of the rod to the upper arm section, then running it all the way through the elbow cleft piece. After that, you'd glue a cap to the rod only on the elbow side that'd let the elbow rotate on the rod (though likely pretty freely or become so as friction takes its toll), If the rod and cap are both plastic, MEK or other plastic glues will basically weld the cap on solidly so it won't fall off. I think it'd be a pretty solid connection, but fiddly to not get glue where you didn't want it, and you'd probably lose some ability to hold certain poses over time (you'd turn it there, but it might lack friction to stay there.)

I suppose if you were worried about magnets being close to one another but wanted that grab, you could use a longer pin on the elbow peice, either of steel or with the magnet mounted on the end, and just drill deeper into the upper arm section with the magnet to give more space...

Yeah, the goal is to clue the rod into the upper arm, with the disk holding the elbow joint from falling off while allowing it to turn freely. Here's a very rough sketch-up.

@.@ Holy cow - you really did sketch that up! I was picturing a few seconds in an MS Paint app or something lol. That's incredibly impressive you were able to 3D that so easily. How did you do that, Insaniak? Which program?

I can't believe I didn't see it before; thanks Vejut as well, this really clarified the idea. Lengthening it to allow for glue to get into the right place is perfect as well.

Man. Thanks so much to you both, this is awesome!

 Netsurfer733 wrote:
@.@ Holy cow - you really did sketch that up! I was picturing a few seconds in an MS Paint app or something lol. That's incredibly impressive you were able to 3D that so easily. How did you do that, Insaniak? Which program?

That was done in ZBrush... it's often faster when I'm already sitting in front of the computer to just throw some shapes together rather than sketching from scratch... Glad it was helpful.

You might try using ball and socket joints or small hinges for a secure connection with rotation. Alternatively, a pin and sleeve mechanism could work well. These methods should allow for movement while keeping the pieces firmly connected. Testing on a small scale first could be helpful. I was struggling to write my research paper when I came across academized.com/write-my-research-paper and I’m so glad I used it. The service was super easy to use, and the paper I received was really well-written. If you’re a student like me who’s finding it hard to finish research papers, this is a great service to try.

I did mine the opposite: a horizontal rod across, magnetize the top for full rotation, depending on the weight of the arm, using Ring type magnet with a pin in center if the arm is heavy.