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I have been pretty happy with my Bones models so far, despite being the namesake for the "Wehrkind Spongy Factor." I have pissed around with painting one over and over, and generally found that the detail isn't a lot worse than a mid-range model from a small manufacturer. Bigger models look much better, and there are some serious misses. I wouldn't buy them sight unseen, but considering the retail prices are super low (back towards what I remember from the 80s but with 20 years of inflation on everything else) I don't mind picking them up from the store. Most importantly, I know exactly what I am getting, and wouldn't buy them for display or center piece models. In fact, the majority of my first KS order are going to be my daughter's first models when she is ready to take up the mantle of geekdom.
Kilkrazy wrote: Pretty easy with some wet and dry paper I should have thought.
Is the material very soft?
If it's anything like PP plastic, sanding seems to scar the plastic.
Indeed it does. PVC is tough, really tough. When filing or sanding I find the plastic, for want of a better description, tears and rips. I find that lots of stiff brushing with an old toothbrush along with very sharp knives which blunt quicker than normal are the best tools to use.
Indeed it does. PVC is tough, really tough. When filing or sanding I find the plastic, for want of a better description, tears and rips. I find that lots of stiff brushing with an old toothbrush along with very sharp knives which blunt quicker than normal are the best tools to use.
Yeah, I've found essentially the same, though I've had luck scraping with some of my older, duller blades. Usually works best on curved pieces, and only on PP models, which seem a bit softer than the Sedition Wars stuff.
Kilkrazy wrote: Pretty easy with some wet and dry paper I should have thought.
Is the material very soft?
If it's anything like PP plastic, sanding seems to scar the plastic.
Indeed it does. PVC is tough, really tough. When filing or sanding I find the plastic, for want of a better description, tears and rips. I find that lots of stiff brushing with an old toothbrush along with very sharp knives which blunt quicker than normal are the best tools to use.
Some really good quality files seem to work ok, but I've blunted so many blades just cleaning up one of my deadzone factions the rest are still sat in the box :(
I have two of those models and they look very much the worse for wear after I used files on them.
Curse you Mantic!!! I will never again be tempted by one your conucopia-like Kickstarters!
Six mistakes mankind keeps making century after century: Believing that personal gain is made by crushing others; Worrying about things that cannot be changed or corrected; Insisting that a thing is impossible because we cannot accomplish it; Refusing to set aside trivial preferences; Neglecting development and refinement of the mind; Attempting to compel others to believe and live as we do
zedmeister wrote: CaptJake cursed my eyes with this. Look upon this abomination. Look upon it!
How many blades would it take to clean this? How many cuts and Knicks to your thumb? Is it even possible?
Challenge accepted! I too have two of those glorious warmachines. I've a set of new blades and files at home and am willing to make a blood scarfice in cleaning it up for your viewing pleasure
I have two goblin trakks as well. They are in the loft. I suspect they will still be in the loft this time 5 years from now.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/06/09 22:46:05
Ex-Mantic Rules Committees: Kings of War, Warpath
"The Emperor is obviously not a dictator, he's a couch." Starbuck: "Why can't we use the starboard launch bays?"
Engineer: "Because it's a gift shop!"
Automatically Appended Next Post: That image is awesome. Great job basement.dweller!
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/06/10 01:47:17
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
I think this thread highlights what is IMO a big difference between GW and other manufacturers.
While GW may now be merely equal or even falling behind on sculpt quality (depending on your particular aesthetic preference), their casting quality is still leagues ahead of the competition.
The multi-part plastic approach lets GW hide mould lines on the edges or undersides of panels, or at least place them on the ridge lines for extremely easy removal.
Compare this to PP models which consistently have flash lines running down the centre of their face, or the ridiculous lines on Deadzone models. My deadzone enforcer captain had a the largest mould slippage line I've ever seen running horizontally across the concave middle of his cape. Ill try to find a photo. If it was GW I would have returned the kit promptly, but that just seemed par for the course with Mantic
Trasvi wrote:While GW may now be merely equal or even falling behind on sculpt quality (depending on your particular aesthetic preference), their casting quality is still leagues ahead of the competition.
Finecast. Never forget.
But yes, other than some wonky poses and sculpting aesthetic issues, their plastics are a dream to work with.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
Our halls echo with hushed tones and muttered curses. The name Draekerys is whispered from the cracked lips of returning knights; sword hilts firm in hand, shields gripped tight, eyes restless. Curious. I sought out this new threat and found it, but am unable to discern its nature.
The alchemists handling the beast call it benign. They say they've raised it and bred out all wickedness.
What kind of plastic do you use for the miniatures?
Our cumulated previous experience with plastic miniatures on other endeavours has made us decide on a very hard PVC plastic. We want your minis to be durable, not the scary "melt in the sun" crap. We are currently discussing these processing options with our manufacturer and we are extremely demanding (and our manufacturer is extremely experienced and known in the gaming industry) cause we don't make crap and we don't sell crap. It's a matter of honor. Plus, it goes without saying but it's better to say it : we would replace immediately and at no charge any defective product. PVC plastic can be chewy and soft or hard as a rock depending on the process and solidifying procedure used. We decided to not make more margin at your expense by using a process that would make small parts bendable. We want you to have crisp details and resilient minis on the table.
Dentry wrote: They say they've raised it and bred out all wickedness.
That's what they all say, Finecast included. If it is true, wait for them to prove it by putting production casts in people's hands and having them verify their claims.
Just imagine every other PVC kickstarter and none of them were saying things like "the details will suck and mould line removal will be awful". Instead they were boosting their product as best they can.
And then decide if you really want to risk money on "it'll be different this time."
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
Brother basement, your works continues to inspire.
Yet it also serves as a grim reminder of our plight. How can we hope to fight with such weaponry? Brother Zond has already experienced the futility therein:
Zond wrote: I'm tempted just to pledge for paints. Although I night stay for the models even if PVC, sacrificing my sanity for final answers, proving my valour to the Restic Knights. I shall fall on to my sword, broken, bent, twisted. Not through injury but merely as I forgot to use hot water to straighten things out.
Arm yourselves with the substances of truth, brothers- that blessed trinity of HIPS, resin, and metal. Cast aside your former arms upon the slightly round table, and forge them anew!
For those who yet labor upon the PVC anvil, we will honor you. A blood drive has begun for thine forthcoming needs.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/06/10 13:48:40
Indeed it does. PVC is tough, really tough. When filing or sanding I find the plastic, for want of a better description, tears and rips. I find that lots of stiff brushing with an old toothbrush along with very sharp knives which blunt quicker than normal are the best tools to use.
Yeah, I've found essentially the same, though I've had luck scraping with some of my older, duller blades. Usually works best on curved pieces, and only on PP models, which seem a bit softer than the Sedition Wars stuff.
If you must persist in your labors, brothers, take careful note of our fellow's arms below:
frozenwastes wrote: I first got restic when Privateer started using it. When their two player starters for warmachine came out, I got a bunch of menoth stuff for cheap off of eBay. It was pretty disappointing, but I got the figures in shape and they painted up alright. I made the mistake of painting one jack before I hot water straightened it's weapons and now it just keeps bending back each time I straighten it. I'm worried if I try to hot water straighten it now, the paint would be damaged or flake off or something.
I didn't participate in the Reaper Bones Kickstarter, but I've bought the occasional model. I find the material to be far better than the hard grey PVC stuff, but it still has its limitations. Reaper's sculpts that have deep details in metal made the transition to the bendy PVC just fine. The sculpts with shallow details though, are best avoided. I also find that higher end files can take off the mould lines without creating fuzzies at all. The ones I have are 2x100 files.
I don't think I'll ever buy another hard grey PVC miniature, but I'm sure I'll buy more Bones. The ones with deeper sculpted details only though.
But I urge you. Consider the cost of what you are about to embark on. You may remove that blemish which you set yourself upon... but at what cost? At what damage to your hobbying soul? To your spouse, as you take out your frustration upon them? To the very fingers with which you type upon the holy Dakka?
How will we know you have fallen, dear brother, if your fingers are to be sacrificed? How will we know?
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/06/10 17:28:45
