The_Blackadder wrote:Have you been away for the summer? I took a week off from modeling after finding the forward toe cylinders as presented on the original model are too short to function properly on an actual moveable construction. I got so P.O.'ed I lost interest in the whole thing for a while. I really should do some drawings of these toes. They are the hardest part of the whole model especially if you want them moveable. The dual cylinders at the base of the toes are particlarly hard to manufactureas they are about 4.5mm long and I still haven't figured a way to mount the knuckle end of the piston. I might have to forgo that bit of articulation.

EB

Feels like I've been gone for the summer. I'm usually reading all you're updates, I just feel that unless I can add something constructive, why bother commenting? All I would be doing is parroting the same thing over again "man great work, looks incredible!" So unless I can add something interesting I just let everybody else commend your work. I was starting to wonder why you hadn't updated in a while (hence my adding a comment to bump your thread). I can totally understand hitting a wall with a project and just walking away from it for a little while. I was considering offering my Titan to you to borrow for comparison, but I realized that is something you probably could have used a long time ago, things are pretty set now. But just like everybody else, I can't wait to see this thing painted up. Your fears about exacting proportions is fair, but in reality I don't think anybody will be able to tell this is a scratch, even FW owners.

I've been punching out some rivets, I was going to put them on some buildings, two questions.
1. What is the procedure you use to apply your rivets?
2. How you you make them uniform in distribution?

jabbakahut wrote:I've been punching out some rivets, I was going to put them on some buildings, two questions.
1. What is the procedure you use to apply your rivets?

I slice the rivets off with a new #11 exacto tip about 10 at a time on a wood cutting board not a self healing mat. I don't measure but extra thin rivets I discard and the thicker ones I install in easy to reach places for sanding later. I use a steel emory board to file the rivets, available in cosmetic stores. I've used the same one for many years and even glued a new wood handle on it when the original plastic handle broke. Apart from that they last forever.

I pick the rivets up with the tip of a new #11 exacto blade and put a dot of tamiya super thin cement (usually one to three at a time, any more and the glue dries too fast before you can place the rivets.)

2. How you you make them uniform in distribution?

Fortunately I have a rather good eye for spacing so unless I have a critical area where a slight discrepancy in spacing is readily apparent (or I have had too much to drink) I just apply the dots by eye and transfer the rivets on with the #11 blade. a second or two of pressure 'til the glue adheres and you move on to the next. I find that even with measuring (which would be prohibitable tedious for so many rivets) I constantly correct in placing the rivets because of micro variations in the pencil line thicknesses anyway so I don't bother to measure except in the above cited instances.

A little practice is all that is necessary.

Hope this helps,

EB

Labor day weekend has come and gone and I was sure I would have been finished with this project by now but I am still rebuilding and detailing. I did manage to amost finish the detailing on the toes yesterday. only the banners and the final rivet dressing to complete and I'll be ready to prime them. I thought I would share the images of the toes before I paint them but my poor camera isn't up to the task. Anyhow here is the latest stage of production.

EB

Your attention to detail is bordering on inasnity, but this all just serves to make your titan look even more impressive!

Vitruvian XVII wrote:Your attention to detail is bordering on insanity, but this all just serves to make your titan look even more impressive!

Wadaya mean "bordering"? I am truly certifiable.

Not one to do things by half,

Blackadder

The amount of detail you're putting into this is equally amazing, insane, and awesome. This is one of those projects that you'll be really proud of for a long time.

You? Titan KING.

Dare I say, I believe that your toes look better than the originals. I just think yours actually have sharper detail than the FW ones. I couldn't tell in the photo, did you put skulls and banners on them? No way you were able to put the aquilla on the piston joint right?

Terribly sorry captain, didn't mean to offend

Seriously though, what with the casting problems of the FW titans, your toes look bettter! (i should know, ive built and painted one!)

Oh dear, that sounded a bit boastful, wasn't meant to, sorry!

SargesSquad wrote:The amount of detail you're putting into this is equally amazing, insane, and awesome. This is one of those projects that you'll be really proud of for a long time.

You? Titan KING.

Titan King, I like the sound of that. Hopefully it will last longer than my first coronation.

jabbakahut wrote:Dare I say, I believe that your toes look better than the originals. I just think yours actually have sharper detail than the FW ones. I couldn't tell in the photo, did you put skulls and banners on them? No way you were able to put the aquilla on the piston joint right?

Banners are going on this evening but a source for the miriad of tiny skulls is a bit of a problem. My son is scouring his friends bitz boxes for enough.

Vitruvian XVII wrote:Terribly sorry captain, didn't mean to offend

Seriously though, what with the casting problems of the FW titans, your toes look bettter! (i should know, ive built and painted one!)

Oh dear, that sounded a bit boastful, wasn't meant to, sorry!

No offense taken; I was only taking umbrage in a jocular vein.

Boast away, I covet a real Chaos Titan myself.

Some day sigh,

EB

jabbakahut wrote:............................No way you were able to put the aquilla on the piston joint right?

?

The perplexed Blackadder


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh you mean:




Not yet.

E.B.

Maybe I need to shoot a photo for you, there is no way you could replicate an aquilla which is an 1/8" across, even the FW one isn't that sharp.

Here you can see that the feet are rather covered in little insignia details, maybe because if you were to stand next to a titan that is all you would really see? If you click on the pic and view it in the gallery you can zoom in (very far I might add).



Also, I've found my preferred method of making rivets is to use a tiny punch and varying thicknesses of plastic card stock depending on the need.

jabbakahut wrote:Maybe I need to shoot a photo for you, there is no way you could replicate an aquilla which is an 1/8" across, even the FW one isn't that sharp.

Baiting the Blackadder are ye Sir? Throwing down the gauntlet as it were. Now that I have seen the close up photos I think I can duplicate the rhomboid shaped blobs indicated by the arrow. :wink:

Also, I've found my preferred method of making rivets is to use a tiny punch and varying thicknesses of plastic card stock depending on the need.

Nice little punch you have there. It appears to yield a 1/16"=.0625" inch dia. rivet. Unfortunately the largest rivet I require is 1/25"=.040" and the smallest I can manage is 1/64"=0.021" although that is a great idea for punching out headlights and the other lights needed in clear styrene after I paint this sucker.

Thanks for the photos,

EB

Another point of interest is the length of the cylinder. Given that the barrel of the cylinder is so short, it is pretty much as I suspected that the toe would not have that range of motion for if that were a possible stance then the toe could not be posed flat as is the usual flat footed pose seen on most models. let alone curling around objects such as the Rhino pictured below.

The toe cylinder would have to be considerably longer and conversely the piston that much shorter.

Mind you I am not casting aspersions on your inspired model so much as pointing out a minor flaw in the FW design.

But I want to know, why would a titan be stepping on a Space Marine tank?

Looks great, yadda yadda.

A note on skulls: The Empire Flagellants kit comes with a mess of nicely scaled skulls on ropes and chains etc. You might be able to grab the bits off the warstore at a reasonable price. Likewise the Sisters of Battle Immolator sprue has many icons with nicely scaled skulls, though it gets a little salty to buy up for that purpose. A SoB player who isn't into super blinged out tanks probably has a number of spares though.

Also, Freebooter miniatures sells a blister pack of assorded skulls that have pretty good detail, but come in a variety of sizes and styles, so you might need more than one.

Again, great job. I really need to work on a better method of rivet production...

jabbakahut wrote:But I want to know, why would a titan be stepping on a Space Marine tank?

If you look close the toes are mottled and I assume, (not being fully conversant on Empire alliances) that it is a Chaos Titan,

or FW has hit a new low in quality control,

or whoops, Collateral damage a new dimension in friendly fire!!

Wehrkind wrote:Looks great, yadda yadda.

A note on skulls: The Empire Flagellants kit comes with a mess of nicely scaled skulls on ropes and chains etc. You might be able to grab the bits off the warstore at a reasonable price. Likewise the Sisters of Battle Immolator sprue has many icons with nicely scaled skulls, though it gets a little salty to buy up for that purpose. A SoB player who isn't into super blinged out tanks probably has a number of spares though.

Also, Freebooter miniatures sells a blister pack of assorded skulls that have pretty good detail, but come in a variety of sizes and styles, so you might need more than one.

Again, great job. I really need to work on a better method of rivet production...

Thanks for the information but I have decided to accept Jabba's challenge and am going to make the skulls and assorted accoutrements from scratch so the ultimate completion date has been set a bit back accordingly and you can blame Jabba Ka Hut.

Watch this space for further developments, :
E.B.

I smell some insanity cookin

Why not convert the rhino to chaos?

I just went through this whole thread. woah nice work titan king.

Shaman wrote:I just went through this whole thread. woah nice work titan king.

The title has officially stuck.

Shaman wrote:I just went through this whole thread. woah nice work titan king.

SargesSquad wrote:

Shaman wrote:I just went through this whole thread. woah nice work titan king.

The title has officially stuck.

To this I can only quote a remark made by American Civil War General William Tecumseh Sherman when he was being considered as a possible Republican candidate for the presidential election of 1884. He declined, saying, "I will not accept if nominated and will not serve if elected.

"If drafted, I will not run; if nominated, I will not accept; if elected, I will not serve." Lord Edmund Blackadder

There are those who may say I have compromised and not carried this out to the nth degree but in truth I am tired of making these toes and they're just going to have to suffice as they are. I have to move on to the arms and armor or this thing will never be finished so here are the toes as they stand (groan) and let no man say I didn't try.

E. Blackadder

Thanks to Jabba for pushing me to make the skulls, aquilla, and banners from scratch. They're all there Mr. Hutt

EB

The toes honestly look fantastic. It looks like you've poured your soul into this work... I think adding anything more to it might hinder the fact that you punched all of those rivets, which itself is amazing.

Anyone who's thinking that your work is sub-par should probably be taken out back and given a stern talking to.

Note to Jabba, I don't have a full picture of the tread on the center toe. Seeing as that you have three mighten it not be too much to ask if you would be so kind as to provide one when you get a chance.

Thanks,

Blackadder

Yep, you're definately crazy Personally I would have called quits on the toes looong ago. Excellent dedication!

Looks great sir!

And your request...



Anybody who is wondering why my titan has two middle toes-feel free to read my guide

WOW...all these toes are amazing.

Thanks Jabba I never would have guessed that was what the tread looks like.

Interesting you haven't corrected that toe error considering your modeling skills it should be a snap although on the other hand battle field conditions necessitate compromise when extreme conditions arise so it is conceivable that when faced with supply shortage and a damaged beyond repair phalange; substituting a middle digit for a side one may have proved a viable expedient.

I hasten to finish these toes before this becomes the foot fetish corner of the Dakka Forum.

EB




Automatically Appended Next Post:

The Dreadnote wrote:Yep, you're definately crazy Personally I would have called quits on the toes looong ago. Excellent dedication!

person person wrote:WOW...all these toes are amazing.

Crazy, a definite certainty. Thanks for the responses,

The well over the fine line Blackadder

It took a week to do these treads. and I accomplished four today so I guess I was just dragging my feet (groan).

Many thanks to my benefactor Jabba for the images of the bottom of the toes. Not that anyone will see all this work but at least I'll know it's there.

Blackadder

You astound me again. such attention to detail!!! Fantastic!!!! I've got to figure out how you do such detailed work with plasticard

The level of dedication that you have expressed throughout this project is truly outstanding, Blackadder.

The_Blackadder wrote:I hasten to finish these toes before this becomes the foot fetish corner of the Dakka Forum.

I think that this part provides an insight into how the foot fetish mind works. It's such a shame, though, that not many of them have seen this hot stuff. Mmmm.

...So get it finished ASAP! I can't control the feeling within for much longer...

Cosmic rates this work highly indeed!

Vitruvian XVII wrote:You astound me again. such attention to detail!!! Fantastic!!!! I've got to figure out how you do such detailed work with plasticard

I'll be more than happy to impart any of my techniques after all this is a mutual aid discourse. Mr Hutt was kind enough to provide me with the necessary photos to accomplish this model. can I do any less than help those that want to know how I managed to build it.

The treads were made of 0.5mm Evergreen boxcar siding which comes prescored with each board approx. 1.5mm. I cut the strips with a standard Stanley Utility knife (not an Exacto knife which is too flexible.). To make the treads I first sanded the edge of the plastic card so instead of 2 slats of siding I had 1 1/2. i laid them out on the foot pad and used a scrap 0.5mm strip to provide the spacing. I figured the spacing based on the need for six units of tread per side toe and the center toe with the aquilla emblem was spaced between the toe treads as space would allow. That was pretty much of a guess as I don't measure and do much of the work by eye. I find that when working with such small scale that measuring is more of a hinderance than a help and pencil lines and even scribed lines are too thick to give a satisfactory result.

I laid out each course of tread and cemented it with Tam. super thin cement. When all the courses were laid I used a razor saw to cut out the center section from toe to heel and cut out the scrap with a #11 exacto knife. I cut 45° tips from the center of each tread end and guestimated how far to cut each back as the toe tapers with each segment. I then pared every other strip as the tread segment s are not uniform with a # 11 exacto blade. I installed each of the chevron shaped treads and again guessed at the angle to cut them as they are way too small to measure being >4mm in length. After all the chevrons were glued in place I used my needle files to dress the rough intersies and sanded the whole tread pad smooth with very fine sandpaper.

I then added the small triangles pieces between the chevrons and sanded and dressed again. I the applied a thin wash of glue to insure the whole set of treads were firmly attached, did a final cleaning after it was dry and another light sanding as needed. I then used my pinvise drill and a 0.030" drill bit to cut the tread holes by hand.

Then I painted the whole mess with Krylon grey primer.

Cosmic wrote: The level of dedication that you have expressed throughout this project is truly outstanding, Blackadder.

The_Blackadder wrote:I hasten to finish these toes before this becomes the foot fetish corner of the Dakka Forum.

I think that this part provides an insight into how the foot fetish mind works. It's such a shame, though, that not many of them have seen this hot stuff. Mmmm.

I don't know, a well turned ankle is hard to beat. :LOL:

...So get it finished ASAP! I can't control the feeling within for much longer...

Cosmic rates this work highly indeed!

Man, no one is more anxious to finish this than me,

Blackadder

Wow, great to see the inner workings of a half-crazed
lunatic!!!

Seriously though, its really interesting to get an insight into your methods

Looks great.
How thick is that card your using for the treads?

jabbakahut wrote:Looks great.
How thick is that card your using for the treads?

http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Sheets.htm

I use the freight car siding .020"thick (0.50mm), 0.067"spacing $5.49. I have used less than two sheets for all the models I have built.

A true value and well worth the price considering the time and aggravation saved in cutting thin strips.

The easily ballistic Blackadder

Blackadder, your work is nothing short of amazing. I would request that should you want your titan to be stepping on soming, the Ork trukk makes a lovely wreck.

Breotan wrote:I would request that should you want your titan to be stepping on soming, the Ork trukk makes a lovely wreck.

lol, an ork trukk is already effectively a wreck. not really much to 'make' it into that

"She's got legs and she knows how to use them."

"She's got legs and she knows how to move them. "

To quote an old song BTW the real lyrics for that song are a bit too racy for this forum.

Finally she's standing on her own (well sort of I need to install some junk in the trunk) don't worry, I've got room for half a pound of lead weights.

but the joints seem strong enough to bear the weight and then some and she is fully possible within the limits of the design.

There are flaws in the FW design and the cylinders built to scale length do not allow for the full range of motion as represented by the various poses of the production model. FW employed a fudge factor (artistic license). The main problem is with the waist to hip cylinders. the piston length is too short and when posed at the extreme end of the socket orbit, the opposite piston slides out of the cylinder. The toe cylinders are likewise too short. I could change the length but it would alter the look of the model which I don't want to do so I'll just have to settle for a limited range of motion.

Now I can start on the weapons.

EB

And when did I start referring to her as she? Well just today.

Is that a custom super-heavy Stormblade in those pictures?

So, I take it you don't paint much, besides terrain of course. But still, good about finding out Forgeworld's little 'mistake'.

Nurglitch wrote:Is that a custom super-heavy Stormblade in those pictures?

This was the subject of one of my Dakka construction articles and one of my pride and joys. Actually it was my first attempt at a total scratch build.

I saw a beautifully rendered model on ebay and had to make it.

Read all about it here:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/210995.page





Blackadder

I read that thread! I thought it looked familiar.

Lord Kaesar II wrote:So, I take it you don't paint much, besides terrain of course. But still, good about finding out Forgeworld's little 'mistake'.

As a rule I like my tanks grey. I figure a house sized vehicle moving slowly across a field could only be disguised as a big ass boulder. I called my tank platoon the Steel Legion before I was apprised by my son that such an army already existed. The difference is my vehicles are steely grey

My favorite color (or lack thereof) has alway been black before it became chic and grey is a logical extention of that.

The Warhound will be an exception. It just doesn't grab me all grey. initially I was going for a grey on grey camouflage see below:



but even that wasn't what I was looking for so I've ultimately decided to copy the FW signature Warhound piece:



Unless someone has a better suggestion

Ah, that makes some better sense, lol. "Sir! A boulder is closing in on our position! Shall we open fire?" But still, certainly a lot of post have said this, but you've got some mad, possibly even psyker induced skills. Better just not let the inquisition find out about you and your scratch builds...

IT WALKS!!!

And its awesome.

The joints which have remained dynamic, how loose are they? Is it able to support its own weight in various poses? Will you glue it solid once a final pose is picked?

As of right now the joints are extremely stiff in the knees and ankles. the toe joints are somewhat looser and I may glue them if I can't stiffen them up. While it was fun(Yeah Right) to try to design moving toe joints there is a limit to practicality and endurance of the material.

Blackadder

Titan pilates?

Walked onto a floor covered in marbles.

First time I've seen a Titan breakdance.

Awesome job on this, I'm amazed at the effort you've put into the whole thing.

This stuff is just too awesome, Blackadder. She's a Blackadder Pattern Warhound for sure!

jabbakahut wrote:Titan pilates?

SargesSquad wrote:Walked onto a floor covered in marbles.

Neith wrote:First time I've seen a Titan breakdance.

Awesome job on this, I'm amazed at the effort you've put into the whole thing.

My son let the cable guy in to hook up my new 'FIOS' and that was how I found the model when I got home from work.

Fortunately there will be no evening news account.

The very much in control Blackadder

At last the long awaited raison d'etre. I mean walking about towering of the battle field is all well and good but ya just gotta have sump'in to kick some ass and here is the first of those somethings. I started with the megabolter because it looked like it would be the toughest to make and I was right. There's a lot more to this boxy weapon than meet the eye of the casual observer. Angles and step ups and downs telescoping parts and for the life of me I can't determine if those two lumps on the back are moulding vents or actually part of the gun.

Anyway here's the first days work.

The_Blackadder wrote:There's a lot more to this boxy weapon than meet the eye of the casual observer.

Funny, that. When I see a Warhound Titan, I just think "wow, a Warhound Titan!" On the other hand, when you next see FW's resin version, I'll bet that your thoughts will most likely be much more about the actual model itself. I guess that's why many people would rather just to pay up than attempt it themselves... Or that they can't actually do it anyway!* This is what makes this project different, it's about Blackadder doing the more difficult thing and pushing his boundaries further outwards. Like has been mentioned before, this is inspiring stuff.

Oh yeah, good luck with the megabolter. Finally, some shooty-killy things!

*Neither can I!

EDITS: OCD spelling/grammar corrections!

I'm speculating that the two lumps on the back are in fact the places where the tubes/lines from the titan connect to.

Thanks for the replies.

How stupid of me to not include a picture of the "lumps."

Blackadder

Tres Sweet Blackadder,

It'll be great to see him marching in the 'arm' y.

bring on the gun show.

I hope is bite is bigger than his bark.

(the last one wasn't a very good pun at all)

Always wondered how much ammo that thing could carry, considering its ridiculous rate of fire.

Cosmic wrote:

The_Blackadder wrote:There's a lot more to this boxy weapon than meet the eye of the casual observer.

Funny, that. When I see a Warhound Titan, I just think "wow, a Warhound Titan!" On the other hand, when you next see FW's resin version, I'll bet that your thoughts will most likely be much more about the actual model itself. I guess that's why many people would rather just to pay up than attempt it themselves... Or that they can't actually do it anyway!* This is what makes this project different, it's about Blackadder doing the more difficult thing and pushing his boundaries further outwards. Like has been mentioned before, this is inspiring stuff.

If I ever see a FW production Warhound I've never seen a real one and apparently they're a rare item here in Jersey. No one here has ever seen one in the flesh er resin. Most of the GW company stores have closed in this area also. I had four local a couple of years ago and now they are all closed?

I guess the scratch builders put them out of business the Ba----ds,

EB

Wow. The mega-bolter looks amazing. Your build prowess is something to behold. Can't wait to see it when it's all together.

How are you going to do the rubber hoses that attach to those points on the gun and titan, and between the head and body?

jabbakahut wrote:How are you going to do the rubber hoses that attach to those points on the gun and titan, and between the head and body?

I dunno?

But seriously, I've toyed with the idea of black monofilament fishing line. I'll try making a bundle of it. Pass it thru some rings made of copper or brass tube stock. Glue the ends into brass tubing collars and glue it to the connectors. The bundle can be held intact with cyno acetate glue and still remain flexible.

'course you could be a sport and give me yours,

EB

Actually, now that you mention it, let me look in my bits dressors, There was some left over when I was done.

Very good work !!!
You recreate it very proffessionaly !
Why don't you create your own model?( after finishing this one of course !

earenciel wrote:Very good work !!!
You recreate it very proffessionaly !
Why don't you create your own model?( after finishing this one of course !

Aside from me being merely a copier there are certain estabished models that have been accepted for this genra. I suppose a titan could be created with the same strengths and play values as the production model but would it be allowed in a tournament game. It would be a shame to waste all that effort on an unplayable piece.

Mais alors my next project will be a scratch built Warlord Titan and aside from a few photos I will be building entirely by instinct.

That should assuage the creative criteria.

serait il pas

La Vipère Noire

Thanks for the reply. I've never had a response from France before (I don't think).

EB

I am amazed by how you are able to pull this off. This has amazing attention to detail and is one of the best works i have seen. Keep it up, my friend. I wouldn't be surprised if GW looked to hire you for something. Im sure Dakka is proud to have you.

The_Blackadder wrote:..my next project will be a scratch built Warlord Titan and aside from a few photos I will be building entirely by instinct.
...

I've been thinking about doing that myself. Too bad the timing isn't right, we could have a Warlord build-off!

jabbakahut wrote:

The_Blackadder wrote:..my next project will be a scratch built Warlord Titan and aside from a few photos I will be building entirely by instinct.
...

I've been thinking about doing that myself. Too bad the timing isn't right, we could have a Warlord build-off!

There's no time like the present. Er that is after I finish the Warhound.

EB

Honestly I didn't know who sang the song; I just remembered the "leggs" comercial.

How's that for dating yourself.

Not much accomplished this week. I do have the bolter body nailed I think and am starting to add the detail.

Originally the front housing was too short and the mount arm housing too long. The bolter barrels were too small and the front overhang too short so I redid virtually the whole thing working on the existing frame.

It looks pretty alright to me and the proportion to the head and hull looks about right so now on goes the detail this evening











If anyone has just cause as to why this detailing should not take place; let him speak now or forever hold his peace.

E. Blackadder

If you dont detail it, ill kill you!!

Seriously though, do the detailing. The VMB casing/shell is looking awesome and those bits on the back of the FW weapons are for attatching hoses/wires.



edit: double post

To detail or not to detail that is not a question with you. Of course detail.

+1, detail please.

A polite request, a preamble to a soliloquy, and a death threat; hmmm I guess I'll detail the existing bolter as it is.

Whether it is nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of an outraged patron, etc.

Blackadder

Can't see to much detail due to brightness but looks good so far.

That disk diameter you're looking for is, I believe, 3 inches.

I started building a warlord last year (it got sidetracked) and did a lot of scaling via AutoCAD, and that's what I remember it being.

Holy moly that is better than a forge world one

Looks great as usual. What's the diameter of the styrene barrels there?

Also, Legs is sung by ZZ TOP.

Beamo wrote:That disk diameter you're looking for is, I believe, 3 inches.

I started building a warlord last year (it got sidetracked) and did a lot of scaling via AutoCAD, and that's what I remember it being.

Thanks, love to see the autocad work.

jamunition wrote:Holy moly that is better than a forge world one

Thanks,

Wehrkind wrote:Looks great as usual. What's the diameter of the styrene barrels there?

Also, Legs is sung by ZZ TOP.

The barrels are 5/32" or 3.98mm and the tips are 1/8" or 3.5mm.

Who?

The out of it Blackadder

Wow, its awesome.

The gimbal is installed. Now to finish the detailing.

Don't know why I put off installing the gimball. It really is quite simple.

First you cut, chop bore, carve, or blast a hole larger than the rotator sphere.

stuff paper, kleenex, or whatever into the void so you don't waste too much epoxy.

mix up enough epoxy to fill the hole.

smear a light coat of vasoline or wax onto the sphere.

Insert the sphere slightly more than half way into the epoxy. a rim of epoxy will push out around the sphere. don't wipe it off or disturb it; you'll just make a mess.

Allow the epoxy to set for a few hours. I use epoxy that hardens in 24 hours but after a few hours it is hard enough to handle.

I use an exacto chisel to remove the rim of epoxy from the ball. The epoxy at this stage comes away readily from the plasticard with no residue. you can even flick it off with your fingernail.

At this point it's good to note that I have threaded an 8-32 screw into the ball.

Grabbing the screw with a set of pliers; the ball should come out with a satisfying 'pop'.

Voila one fully articulated gimbal,

Blackadder

Whoa... You've got a head full of ideas, Blackadder! I'd imagine that a few more rivets will see this baby finished.

If I were to ever complete a project such as this, I think that I'd spend a few days afterwards spinning around on my desk chair whilst laughing madly. Who needs an evil feline pet when you can have a titan!

"I told you not to anger me, and now the Warhound is upset. Start running now... Mwhahaha!"

"So are you going to tidy that mess up or not?"

"Oh, right, that. Errr, give me a minute and I'll do it... I SAID A MINUTE!"

Ah, a touch of randomness never did any harm. Anyhow, have fun getting this part done!

Awesome.

Now I'm really jealous. You can pop it in and out easily AND it retains enough tension to hold the gun (the resin weapons are rather heavy-that was a major problem with magnetically mounting them) how much do yours weigh?

I can't find my postage scale but about an ounce i.e. 28grams.

Here's what you need to do if you have a Dremel style power tool. Cut out a large amount of material from the bottom of the weapon (Where the detail is sparse or cut a slab with the detail intact.) and hollow out the weapon especially towards the front. Then epoxy the slab back on and fill the seam. That shouldn't be too hard because you have a bolter and a plasma cannon. A lascannon would require a rebuild of the barrels out of evergreen tubing again not too difficult.

HTH,

EB




Automatically Appended Next Post:
Live and learn Department:

Here's some thing I just found out while I was waiting for the Tamiya glue to dry. I have always cursed them because the brush doesn't reach to the bottom of the bottle. I've been adding marbles to raise the fluid level but I was just holding the collar around the gimbal and waiting for the glue to set and noticed that the brush is an insert and can be slid out to reach the bottom of the vial. Those insidious Orients; wouldn't you think they would have mentioned that on the label instead of the ridiculous admonishment not to drink the stuff.

I mean if you have to be warned not to drink plastic glue I'm afraid you won't be long for this world anyway.

Of course with that in mind one might argue that if you have to be told to slide the brush out you might be too stupid to build plastic models Blackadder. LOL

Thought I'd get that in that before someone else did,

EB

Man I am mired in work and have not been able to devote a lot of time to this project. Here's the bolter as it stands today. You will note the lack of detail on the appendage empennage (Look it up.) I can't find any images on what it's supposed to look like. Mayhaps some kind soul would regale us with a timely image of the butt end of the bolter and the ammo caissons as well ??? I hope

The hat in hand Blackadder

'Sanity is for the weak!'

Insane again Blackadder. Brilliant stuff.

Cili

Man I love DakkaX2 forum. I can always count on a quick response and I thrive on the replies.

Thanks for responding,

Here Lucy waiting for her arms I hope I can do more in the next week.

Blackadder

Just the other day I was transferring some photos from my cam, I guess I did something and ended up deleting the entire card before completing. Tried file recovery to no avail. But I had taken some weapon photos for you. I'll see if I can't do it again tonight.

looks awesome ATM.

Wish I had as much skill at plasticard and scratch building stuff like some of yall out there.... Needless to say that, that looks AMAZING thus far! Good work mate!

This is very impressive, the rivets and surfaces look so even and sound. This is certainly a journey of a thousand miles, and you've definately gone a couple extra. I've just started scratchbuilding, and what I'm doing is shenanigans compared to your titan. Great job, keep it going!

Heliodore wrote:This is very impressive, the rivets and surfaces look so even and sound. This is certainly a journey of a thousand miles, and you've definately gone a couple extra. I've just started scratchbuilding, and what I'm doing is shenanigans compared to your titan. Great job, keep it going!

Scratch building is indeed a gratifying pursuit and I wish that there were plasticard when I was a youth. We used to model WWII naval vessels out of shirt cardboard and celophane tape. A 600 foot battleship would be rendered at about a foot long and take weeks to build. With the impetuosity of youth we would think nothing of shooting them up with BB's (Do they still make BB guns anymore???) and setting fire to them while recreating various Pacific battles. What I wouldn't give to have those models back; but I digress, I have one rule now with scratch building well actually two the first being don't set your work on fire but second never build anything you can afford to buy as a kit. There is a lot of work in even a small model and why not let someone else do the hard part. I personally wouldn't do a model that costs less than $250 dollars, my time and effort is worth more than that.

Just my two cents for what it's woth which seem about right. LOL

Good luck on your scratch build and any help I can be don't hesitate to ask,

Blackadder

LOL, that is good advice, definately more than two cents worth. After a few tries at simple conversions I just decided to give plasticard construction a go. Just keeping it simple for now, but certainly shooting high for projects worthy of the time and effort.
I read your explanation on how you did your great looking rivets. I've read of similar methods, but I've heard that many times that rivets done like this tend to come off fairly easy during transport or after being stored in foam for a while, or just be rubbed the wrong way. Are there extra steps one should take to prevent one's rivets from falling off. I've been using small nails, which requires a lot of pin vice work, and I think I want to avoid this method in the future. Can't wait to see your finished titan, and the one after!
Heliodore

Rivets are definitely the fly in the ointment on plastic models. I've had relatively good luck by pressing the rivet firmly into a dot of Tamiya cement with the tip of a #11 exacto blade and holding it there until the glue adheres. Even thought I still lose a rivet now and again.

I used dress making straight pins almost exclusively for my tank models They are available in various head sizes (which vary with the length of the pin) in stateside millinery shops. I drill slightly undersized hole and insert a cut off pin head with about a 1/8" shank still attached. no glue necessary and they don't come out in normal use. The last alternative is to drill a slightly larger hole and insert a plastic rod dipped in glue and cut off the excess. After it's dry dress the head with a fingernail emery board (I use a steel one which I've had for ages). This method is the most labor intensive but best for 0.020" or less sized rivets and what I used on the plasma cannon.

Still bloody amazing man.
I am glad to see that I am not the only one to justify buying models based on the notion that it would take me far longer to make one myself than it takes to make the money at work! My wife doesn't quite understand the notion, her hobby being saving money.

just picked up this thread cause I was bored at work, but WOW was it worth it and boy am I glad I did. Honestly like you said whenever you see scratch built titans usually they just look horrible, but yours...I mean WOW honestly WOW. the true attention to detail the overall magnitude of it...WOW. I tip my hat to you sir.

this is so sweet. when she's walking and shooting and painted it'll be a day to rejoice!!

Ah, dress pins, that's a good tip, they are manufactured in such a way as to have a uniformity in the shape of their heads. Carpentry nails, like what I have been using, their heads differ slightly to each nail, since they ae more crudly made. I really should have known better. Thanks for the tips Blackadder.

C'est exellent!

The level of detail on this thing is stunning.

Can't wait to see the finished thing

I'm very impressed, Edmund.

Which weapon will you make as Lucy's second arm, out of interest?

Wehrkind wrote:Still bloody amazing man.
I am glad to see that I am not the only one to justify buying models based on the notion that it would take me far longer to make one myself than it takes to make the money at work! My wife doesn't quite understand the notion, her hobby being saving money.

Actually I said I wouldn't scratchbuild models I could afford to buy. I don't actually buy models except for derelicts I find on ebay. I restore these wrecks to their potential glory (mainly superheavy tanks). At the moment I have:

two FW Baneblades, a Lucius and Mars each,

three FW Shadowswords

A FW Stormblade,

An Armorcast Baneblade rebuilt to look like a FW Lucius

An Armorcast Shadowsword in original condition

and my scratch built Titan hunter.

They are quite a sight on a battleboard.

Empchild wrote:just picked up this thread cause I was bored at work, but WOW was it worth it and boy am I glad I did. Honestly like you said whenever you see scratch built titans usually they just look horrible, but yours...I mean WOW honestly WOW. the true attention to detail the overall magnitude of it...WOW. I tip my hat to you sir.

I hope I have never made a disparaging assessment of others scratch built efforts and if I have I deeply apologize. I do recall stating that the level of detail is measured by ones personal satisfaction or words to that effect.

Dysartes wrote:I'm very impressed, Edmund.

Which weapon will you make as Lucy's second arm, out of interest?

I intend to make a full varity of arms eventually but the next weapon is (as I am working out the basic shape right now) the dual lascannon. That should be relatively simple as the complexity of the detail is much less than the bolter.

I don't relish making another plasma cannon as I hate repetition especially on a scale this size but I must as the Hunter's cannon isn't adaptable to the Warhound.

I won't be making a fist, mace or chainsaw though because they just look silly IMHO,

Blackadder

By the way you take old wrecks of tanks and fix them up you sound kinda like the Mechanicus in how they take blown up stuff and just restore it for further punishment, lol. Cool idea in itself, taking derelicts others get rid of and recommissioning them. This next bit may also be kinda redundant, but your warhound is an absolute killer so far. Keep up the good work, and may the Omnissiah be with you/

Wehrkind wrote:Still bloody amazing man.
I am glad to see that I am not the only one to justify buying models based on the notion that it would take me far longer to make one myself than it takes to make the money at work! My wife doesn't quite understand the notion, her hobby being saving money.

Ms Blackadder is the same way. Poor women god love 'em they sure got the short end of the stick when it comes to interests. I mean could you be satisfied with floral arangements and china patterns?

I rather think not,

EB

s.j.mccartney wrote:this is so sweet. when she's walking and shooting and painted it'll be a day to rejoice!!

Man, you and me both. I'm champing at the bit to start the next project.

Valkyrie wrote:C'est exellent!

The level of detail on this thing is stunning.

Can't wait to see the finished thing

See above, thx

Lord Kaesar II wrote:By the way you take old wrecks of tanks and fix them up you sound kinda like the Mechanicus in how they take blown up stuff and just restore it for further punishment, lol. Cool idea in itself, taking derelicts others get rid of and recommissioning them. This next bit may also be kinda redundant, but your warhound is an absolute killer so far. Keep up the good work, and may the Omnissiah be with you/

It's sad when parents buy expensive models for their kids and don't help them build them. The level of ability to render a resin model satisfactorly is beyond most pre-teens; they just don't have the patience. Think what a teaching moment this would be instead of indulging the kid just to get him out of your hair.

Help me off this soapbox,

Blackadder

The_Blackadder wrote:I won't be making a fist, mace or chainsaw though because they just look silly IMHO,

Not to mention the fact that Warhounds don't carry close-combat weapons

Lemme see I gotta picture around here somewhere. Ah, here it is.

I believe Dysartes was referring to the datasheet/ FW rules for a warhound. However that pic looks pretty awesome. CCWs also suck on titans as the void shields don't work when you get close-up :(

Back OT: Brilliant work as usual. As to the rear of the VMB its just 2 smaller squares on the angled face, with a small gap between each square and the edges. These are for the hoses to attatch to the body.

Ps. Not sure if you got that, i would take a pic of mine but its at the club. If there are any reference pics you need, let me know and ill get them for you on Wednesday. (Although i don't have the turbo-laser or flamer thingy)

Hope that helps,

Vitruvian

Great progress mate and first class attention to detail!

Can't wait to see the finished product!

Cheers,

Dante

AS noted by Vitruvian, I'm referring to any version of the Warhound which has seen rules - either Epic or 40k - as I'm 95% sure none of them have carried close combat weapons.

What some people choose to model is, of course, up to them.

Having said that, the old Reaver chainfist looks cool on the appropriate chassis.

Dysartes wrote:AS noted by Vitruvian, I'm referring to any version of the Warhound which has seen rules - either Epic or 40k - as I'm 95% sure none of them have carried close combat weapons.

What some people choose to model is, of course, up to them.

Having said that, the old Reaver chainfist looks cool on the appropriate chassis.

So that's what that is and once you said it I remembered seeing it on an old AC Reaver. Thanks for the info. I get myself in too deep when I talk about the game. That's my son's department

Empennage the rear part of an aircraft.

jabbakahut wrote:Empennage the rear part of an aircraft.

Poetic license, sue me. In the future it will apply to titans as well.

Thanks for the pictures

The Blackadder

I'm not getting notifications of replies. I look forward to responses. It's been a busy couple of weeks and I haven't got much done on the lascannon but the bolter is ostensibly finished except for the rear and bottom detail. Lucy is so excited she accidentally stepped on one of her escorts. Fortunately the driver was unharmed.

EB

Wow, I swear that looks better than FWs. Cant wait to see more on the lasers.

Crushed sentinel ftw !
Man i can't wait to see this finished

The_Blackadder wrote:I'm not getting notifications of replies. I look forward to responses.

Alright, alright! Hehehe. On the other hand, it's good to know that our comments are helpful to you. You (and the Titan) deserve them!

The_Blackadder wrote:Lucy is so excited she accidentally stepped on one of her escorts. Fortunately the driver was unharmed.

Ah, der Imperialen Armee, 'tis a man's life! Seriously, Blackadder, I'm not too sure if there's anything else that I can say about this project other than WOW! It's waaayyy too deep for my understandings. Well, at least I think so anyway...

You should e-mail FW with some picture of "her" when she's done. The caption should be "HA!" or something else suitably similar.

Keep it up man!

Blackadder, what's the curled strip of plasticard going to be used for?

Dysartes wrote:Blackadder, what's the curled strip of plasticard going to be used for?

It's the curb that goes around the gimbal sphere for the lascannon. It's the same part as is on the Bolter. I just wanted to so how to glue it. I used the cap of an old Taminya cement bottle for a form.

EB

Lol at the crushed sentinel. I really like this, keep up the good job.

Normally scenic elements on a model are of a rival faction, it makes more sense that a titan would step on a sentinel than anything else, great concept.

At one time I had toyed with the idea of making bases for my Superheavies and the Titan. Sort of a mini diorama I even have the tank tread imprints made. I was going to have the tanks rolling over skeletons and corpses and likewise the titan stepping on the remains of battlefield casualties. But A) aside from skulls I can't find any realistic 28mm bones (Yes I can make them but I haven't the time right now.) and 2) they would have to be Imperial Guard as you don't always know what army you'll be fielded against.

At any rate the squashed Sentinel was just a joke. I care too much for my Apocalypse Sentinel squad. It was on the workbench for repairs as it had fallen off of it's base and broken a leg so I just bent Lucie's toes around it. Its not a permanent fixture.

EB

I've been looking all over for a decent picture of the lascannon rear detail and found that the original FW assemble instructions had a perfect image of the side and bottom detail!!!

Incidentally it's called a "Turbo Laser"! Why doesn't somebody tell me these things??? LOL

The red faced Blackadder

can warhounds take turbolasers?

if so I am gonna give my imaginary warhound 2...........

DC

deadly chicken wrote:can warhounds take turbolasers?

if so I am gonna give my imaginary warhound 2...........

DC

It's quite clear they can. The information is right out of der buch der unstrrucshions (the German word for 'instructions' is unrecognizable...Unterricht or Anweisungen LOL)

EB

Vitruvian XVII wrote:Wow, I swear that looks better than FWs.

QFT

How many weapons are you planing on, I presume you're making them swappable?

jabbakahut wrote:How many weapons are you planing on, I presume you're making them swappable?

I intend to make the full compliment of arms eventually but the next weapon is (as I am working out the basic shape right now) the dual lascannon (Turbo laser). That should be relatively simple as the complexity of the detail is much less than the bolter. There a also a few new weapons introduced by FW for the Reaver titan. I may make those in a scaled down version for the Warhound but after I get the Turbo laser completed and the arm hangers I will complete the Warhound before making any more weapons.

I don't relish making another plasma cannon as I hate repetition especially on a scale this size but I must as the Hunter's cannon isn't adaptable to the Warhound.

The weapons of course will pop onto the rotator spheres and the cable conduits will plug in.

Blackadder

I had some requests on another forum for pictures with a few figures to get a sense of the size of Lucie. It would be interesting if someone with a real FW 'hound could take a similar set of images that I might compare my effort to the real thing as it doesn't seem likely that I'll be seeing one in the near future.

I did post images with some Catchans literally underfoot and others with a Sentinel actually underfoot. As big as it looks Lucie stands only ten and a half inches high which scalewise translates to about fifty feet tall or twice the height of your average two story suburban home.

Below are a few pictures I just took tonight with my poor obsolete camera. Surprising how many different shades that lamp puts out.

I have it on authority that the figure between the feet is a Tech Priest who (No doubt sans fey regalia.) would be in charge of the beastie. So help me the grey color is growing on me I may go with the grey on grey camo after all.

The_Blackadder wrote:It would be interesting if someone with a real FW 'hound could take a similar set of images that I might compare my effort to the real thing as it doesn't seem likely that I'll be seeing one in the near future.

Do you have WD 334? The one which features Apocalypse? That might help... If not, there's always Google if nobody can give you a size comparison picture.

The_Blackadder wrote:So help me the grey color is growing on me I may go with the grey on grey camo after all.

When it comes to stuff like colour schemes and such, nobody can truly help you out. If grey is a favourite colour choice of yours, then go with it. You'll find that you may prefer the over-all outcome of the titan because of this, where-as you may be more critical of it if you were to choose another colour scheme. Whatever you do, don't ponder over a choice like this - It'll just get you nowhere. Sometimes it's all too easy to spend a long time planning on things, and yet not actually get anything done.

Anyways... It's all looking good from what I can see Blackadder. As usual - Keep it up!

Sage advise Cosmic. Actually I have had the better part of two years to ponder the colour scheme although the actual build really commenced in ernest April of this year. Since the material is too fragile to paint more than once I'll have to be sure of the design I select. There's a lot more leeway on resin models as the material is so tough and hard that if you don't like the colour you can scrap it off and repaint it. Thats what I did with all the derelicts I bought on ebay. Yeah I know you can use Simple green but its way too late for that.

Well I have a couple more weeks before I make my final decision. The lascannon whoops I mean Turbo Laser is coming along nicely now that I have the final basic shape done. All that left is the detailing which to me is the icing on the cake, I love detailing. Here's the basic body that I just put the finishing touches on today. Yup no barrels yet, they're detail.

As usual FW's design is a lot more complicated than a casual glance would allow. There are many cutouts and recesses that make the overall model come alive instead of looking like a couple of scale shoeboxes glued together. The FW designers are true artists as well as d--ned fine engineers and I would love to see concept drawings and prototype models. They should offer that to the public. I also would like to know whether this was the effort of one individual or a team.

Nice, Cant wait for detail.

The_Blackadder wrote:I also would like to know whether this was the effort of one individual or a team.

I think all of the titan stuff (both patterns and the Reaver) were created by the dynamic duo of Will Hayes and Simon Egan.

Sorry, I don't have any sentinels in which to photocopy for you.

My poor showing for this weekend. The hull of the Turbo laser detail and the beginning of the base of the barrel of one of the guns using a wrap of the aforementioned HO boxcar siding

Hot diggity dog, this looks better every time I look at it.

Truley is outstanding, your accuracte replication of this model, on the begennings of the turbo laser is just amazing

Well done, keep it up, and I look forward to your next update

Thanks and who might be that strange fellow in your avatar???

The one and Only Mr. Bean, who according to my mum, looks alot like me... which he doesnt lol.

Anyway, must get some help from you on working with those materials you are using.

So to create the barrel you wrap the card around an xacto? How do you close and hide that seam?

AWESOME

Very nice Blackadder.

The_Blackadder wrote:Thanks and who might be that strange fellow in your avatar???

jabbakahut wrote:So to create the barrel you wrap the card around an xacto? How do you close and hide that seam?

First of all I knew full well that Wolf's avatar was Rohin Atkinson in his Mr Bean persona. That was supposed to be what you may call a bit of a joke; yeesh!

That out of the way to the business at hand.

Plasticard telescoping tubing only comes in sizes up to 0.5 inches so to get the necessary barrel thickness which I calculated to be about 0.625 inches I had to wrap some thin stock around the 0.5 inch tube. The exacto handle is 0.375 and I use it to prevent the tube from collapsing when I clamp it. I use this technique quite regularly as when I made the hydraulic cylinders, the band around the hip barrel, the rim around the hip and ankle gimbals, the collar around the gun mount gimbals and the waist swivel gear. I glue the end of the card stock to the cylinder insuring it's square with the tube and allow it to dry. Then I file the end to a fine bevel and proceed to wrap and glue until the desired thickness is achieved. another coat of glue and clamp until dry at which point there is a raised seam that gets beveled with a file so it is barely perceptible. There is usually some structure that will hide the seam if need be as in this case where the two barrels will be in close proximity so the seam could be hidden there.

Hey we're talking about FW here. You know how bad their castings are anyway. LOL

Blackadder

Interesting, you use a metal file or like a nail file?

If nothing your 'hound will look better because it won't contain any of those horrible mold shifts!

Hey Blackadder nice looking model you got there. You've inspired me to try to make a Mars Pattern puppy instead of wishing for a FW warhound to drop outta the sky. I just have a couple of quick questions on the size of some materials. Sorry if you already covered it in a previous post.

First, how large was the ball you used for your ankle. I'm leaning towards 1" wooden balls for the ankles, waists, and arms, but I would still like to know the right dimensions.

Second, how thick was your base ankle tube. It looks like 0.5".

Third, what size square tube styrene did you use for the legs?

From what I've seen making this seems easy enough with the right amount of patience. Just start simple, then add details. The only problem I see is getting the dimensions right. Any useful tips on making the legs?

-Kal

The_Blackadder wrote:

jabbakahut wrote:So to create the barrel you wrap the card around an xacto? How do you close and hide that seam?

First of all I knew full well that Wolf's avatar was Rohin Atkinson in his Mr Bean persona. That was supposed to be what you may call a bit of a joke; yeesh!

I know, the picture posted was a bit of a celebration of that fact.

Plus, the idea of Blackadder as an inquisitor amuses me.

That being said, top performance all around. I love the model.

Kaladin wrote:Hey Blackadder nice looking model you got there. You've inspired me to try to make a Mars Pattern puppy instead of wishing for a FW warhound to drop outta the sky. I just have a couple of quick questions on the size of some materials. Sorry if you already covered it in a previous post.

First, how large was the ball you used for your ankle. I'm leaning towards 1" wooden balls for the ankles, waists, and arms, but I would still like to know the right dimensions.

Second, how thick was your base ankle tube. It looks like 0.5".

Third, what size square tube styrene did you use for the legs?

From what I've seen making this seems easy enough with the right amount of patience. Just start simple, then add details. The only problem I see is getting the dimensions right. Any useful tips on making the legs?

-Kal

I'll answer your questions in full tomorrow I just put in a long day today and am bushed. I'm very pleased to offer what help I can but to be fair; I don't have any accurate measurements just educated guesses so the info I give you may not be totally correct.

A Mars pattern, thats an ambitious project. Sculpting skills in addition to boxcutter skills I'm looking forward to your thread.

Blackadder

The_Blackadder wrote:

Kaladin wrote:Hey Blackadder nice looking model you got there. You've inspired me to try to make a Mars Pattern puppy instead of wishing for a FW warhound to drop outta the sky. I just have a couple of quick questions on the size of some materials. Sorry if you already covered it in a previous post.

First, how large was the ball you used for your ankle. I'm leaning towards 1" wooden balls for the ankles, waists, and arms, but I would still like to know the right dimensions.

Second, how thick was your base ankle tube. It looks like 0.5".

Third, what size square tube styrene did you use for the legs?

From what I've seen making this seems easy enough with the right amount of patience. Just start simple, then add details. The only problem I see is getting the dimensions right. Any useful tips on making the legs?

-Kal

I'll answer your questions in full tomorrow I just put in a long day today and am bushed. I'm very pleased to offer what help I can but to be fair; I don't have any accurate measurements just educated guesses so the info I give you may not be totally correct.

A Mars pattern, thats an ambitious project. Sculpting skills in addition to boxcutter skills I'm looking forward to your thread.

Blackadder

Thanks, man. I got a toe done today (I'm impressed with myself considering this is my first time ever working with Styrene, lol I'm such a noob) and I'll get pics by tomorrow. Yea Mars Pattern will be tough because its sleek and curvy, but for the body and shin guards I am just going to sand wooden molds for each and heat the plastic onto it making nice smooth curves. Unfortunately, a woman's hair dryer was not hot enough for the styrene, though. Maybe I have to heat it longer, but I digress... I am probably going to fudge the measurements like you. I am praying I am right on my calculations (kinda ironic for an engineering student), but even if I mess up I got practice modeling.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/260414.page

^Along with your thread, this one is very helpful for reference and the detail is down right impressive. The legs don't scare me modeling-wise at all, it's the head and body. Mine will probably end up as a crude version of his but the fact that I made a titan will be sweet.

Finally, here's a fun idea. LED's inside the head to make the eyes glow. I will probably attempt this much later once I get modeling down.

take it easy,

Kal

Kaladin

You are more then likely going to have to go and purchase a heat gone from an electrical store or hardware store. We use them all the time for heat shrink and are a little bit hotter then a basic hair drier without all the wind. Also use to use them to help put Kiwi wax on boots.

Kaladin wrote:Hey Blackadder nice looking model you got there. You've inspired me to try to make a Mars Pattern puppy instead of wishing for a FW warhound to drop outta the sky. I just have a couple of quick questions on the size of some materials. Sorry if you already covered it in a previous post.

First, how large was the ball you used for your ankle. I'm leaning towards 1" wooden balls for the ankles, waists, and arms, but I would still like to know the right dimensions.

Quite correct I used 1.0" balls for the ankles but the waist spheres should be 1.125" (1 1/8") but you will have the devil of a time finding them. For the arms I used 0.875" (7/8") spheres and the neck is a 1.25" (1 1/4")wooden drawer pull.

Second, how thick was your base ankle tube. It looks like 0.5".

The base ankle tube is 0.664"( A shade under 11/16"). How I came up with that measurement I don't know. it just looked right.

Third, what size square tube styrene did you use for the legs?

I used four (3/8) grey styrene hollow square stock; (I don't know the manufacturer) but it has thicker walls than the Evergreen. If I had it to do over I would just use Evergreen stock. The reason for that was to provide a good base for the joint tubes to be epoxied to the leg segments. The leg units in cross section are 0.93" X 0.85" again it just looked right. I built them up by sheathing them in Plasticard stock.

From what I've seen making this seems easy enough with the right amount of patience. Just start simple, then add details. The only problem I see is getting the dimensions right. Any useful tips on making the legs?

All these measurements are just my guesses, I don't have any dimensions taken from a FW model for you.

The wretched Blackadder


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Kaladin wrote:

The_Blackadder wrote:

Kaladin wrote:Hey Blackadder nice looking model you got there. You've inspired me to try to make a Mars Pattern puppy instead of wishing for a FW warhound to drop outta the sky. I just have a couple of quick questions on the size of some materials. Sorry if you already covered it in a previous post.

First, how large was the ball you used for your ankle. I'm leaning towards 1" wooden balls for the ankles, waists, and arms, but I would still like to know the right dimensions.

Second, how thick was your base ankle tube. It looks like 0.5".

Third, what size square tube styrene did you use for the legs?

From what I've seen making this seems easy enough with the right amount of patience. Just start simple, then add details. The only problem I see is getting the dimensions right. Any useful tips on making the legs?

-Kal

I'll answer your questions in full tomorrow I just put in a long day today and am bushed. I'm very pleased to offer what help I can but to be fair; I don't have any accurate measurements just educated guesses so the info I give you may not be totally correct.

A Mars pattern, thats an ambitious project. Sculpting skills in addition to boxcutter skills I'm looking forward to your thread.

Blackadder

Thanks, man. I got a toe done today (I'm impressed with myself considering this is my first time ever working with Styrene, lol I'm such a noob) and I'll get pics by tomorrow. Yea Mars Pattern will be tough because its sleek and curvy, but for the body and shin guards I am just going to sand wooden molds for each and heat the plastic onto it making nice smooth curves. Unfortunately, a woman's hair dryer was not hot enough for the styrene, though. Maybe I have to heat it longer, but I digress... I am probably going to fudge the measurements like you. I am praying I am right on my calculations (kinda ironic for an engineering student), but even if I mess up I got practice modeling.

My idea was to build a foam core poster board base and smear epoxy over it and sand it smooth. Of course I would be building a chaos model so flaws would be a plus. I really think FW uses the QC rejects to flesh out their Chaos stock and the really bad stuff become Ork models. LOL

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/260414.page

^Along with your thread, this one is very helpful for reference and the detail is down right impressive. The legs don't scare me modeling-wise at all, it's the head and body. Mine will probably end up as a crude version of his but the fact that I made a titan will be sweet.

Finally, here's a fun idea. LED's inside the head to make the eyes glow. I will probably attempt this much later once I get modeling down.

I've toyed with the idea of LED headlights which is why the sockets are still empty.

EB

titasah64 wrote:Kaladin

You are more then likely going to have to go and purchase a heat gone from an electrical store or hardware store. We use them all the time for heat shrink and are a little bit hotter then a basic hair drier without all the wind. Also use to use them to help put Kiwi wax on boots.

Ah, it is as I feared. Alright, looks like I have to invest more money into this project. Thanks.

The_Blackadder wrote:

My idea was to build a foam core poster board base and smear epoxy over it and sand it smooth. Of course I would be building a chaos model so flaws would be a plus. I really think FW uses the QC rejects to flesh out their Chaos stock and the really bad stuff become Ork models. LOL

Hah, well any mistake can be made into "battle damage" but you can't fix Ork tech, lol. Anyway, thanks for your measurements. I will probably play it by eye, too, but I just needed some idea of the proportions. I'll try to get a thread up tonight for my puppy if I can get my webcam to take high detailed images, but so far no luck. Thankfully, there's always the internet to save me.

Thanks for all the help,

Kal

Not being a gentleman of leisure I've spent the better part of my past three weekends raking leaves. Fine employment for my time when I should be working on that d---ed Turbo laser.

Here's the poor showing for this week.

Blackadder

The_Blackadder wrote:Here's the poor showing for this week.

No worries, Blackadder, at least it's some progress, as a suppose to none. Not that I'm saying that you don't deliver constant updates of this project - Far from it, in fact. Since you began, you've managed to keep up a really good level of dedication and progress. Look at it this way: The end is almost within reach now!

I'd imagine that it's almost time to mount the barrels onto the main weapon part. Are you going to just glue them straight on, or reinforce the bond by adding something more? Perhaps this isn't necessary... Well, I'm sure that I'll find out soon - Keep to the Emperor's word!

Agreed.

Cosmic wrote:

The_Blackadder wrote:Here's the poor showing for this week.

No worries, Blackadder, at least it's some progress, as a suppose to none. Not that I'm saying that you don't deliver constant updates of this project - Far from it, in fact. Since you began, you've managed to keep up a really good level of dedication and progress. Look at it this way: The end is almost within reach now!

I'd imagine that it's almost time to mount the barrels onto the main weapon part. Are you going to just glue them straight on, or reinforce the bond by adding something more? Perhaps this isn't necessary... Well, I'm sure that I'll find out soon - Keep to the Emperor's word!

I'd wondered about that myself so today I just bit the bullet and glued them on with Testor's Blue label plastic glue which I find works better with plasticard that the red label original toxic glue surprise surprise. The bond is super strong and after a minute I could bearly nudge the two guns into a more refined alignment. The gun barrels are so light only a few grams each, that the glue joint alone is more than adequate.

Pictures later,

Blackadder

Im utterly speechless - I should have been working, but instead i was reading this amazing project log :O
Im astounded by your attention to detail. I cant even imagine working on one project for that length of time!
keep up the great work!

Hello!
I tought i should put a comment on your blog, it's so overall well done detail, quality and mechanized (hydraulics and such, dont think i would have made all those functionable) wise.
I wish you best luck on the Blackadder Titan , and keep up the great work!

The_Blackadder wrote:

jabbakahut wrote:............................No way you were able to put the aquilla on the piston joint right?

?

The perplexed Blackadder


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh you mean:




Not yet.

E.B.

Man I had to do this just to take up Jabba's challenge. LOL



Look at the cylinder blocks above the forward toe pistons Jabba.

The suffering from eye strain Blackadder

BTW I use 'Opera' as a browser which gives me +300% or greater if needs be magnification.

Those look incredible man. And I have to say that yours look better than the FW ones. My disapointment with the quality of FW was cemented when I got my titan. In addiction to horribly shift molds, vent problems, air bubbles, there were also many small details (rivets in particular) which came out poorly. Now I wish I would have just shaved off all of the original ones and replaced them. Technically your reproduction is incorrect in that your rivets are larger-and all present, but it looks so much better in my opinion. Great work.

jabbakahut wrote:Technically your reproduction is incorrect

Gah! Don't tell him that! He'll probably redo the whole thing!

Wow! I love that conversion work! Make sure to do some more

jabbakahut wrote:Those look incredible man. And I have to say that yours look better than the FW ones. My disapointment with the quality of FW was cemented when I got my titan. In addiction to horribly shift molds, vent problems, air bubbles, there were also many small details (rivets in particular) which came out poorly. Now I wish I would have just shaved off all of the original ones and replaced them. Technically your reproduction is incorrect in that your rivets are larger-and all present, but it looks so much better in my opinion. Great work.

Gad! my rivets are too big well the trash man may not be that fussy, Guess I'll start over.


I'm really over my head on this one yadda, yadda, yadda.............

Blackadda

Yeah right it is what it is.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

exponent wrote:Im utterly speechless - I should have been working, but instead i was reading this amazing project log :O
Im astounded by your attention to detail. I cant even imagine working on one project for that length of time!
keep up the great work!

I do have other concurrent projects: raking leaves, cleaning the moss off the roof, helping my son with his scratchbuilt Thunderhawk, loading the dishwasher etc.

O yeah and of course work,

EB

Wanted to get this up before the end of the weekend. Lucie has guns, well weapons anyway. It's been a long wait but they came out fairly good. All that detail on the top and all you see is the bottoms and sides. The weapon hanging arms were a real bear. getting the length angle and size was really trying. The whole this is just slapped together temporarily so I size up the proportions. Everything looks okay so I'll finish the detail.

Blackadder

Now she's a really becoming a true Titan, Blackadder! The weapon joins are a cracking idea. BTW, your new image website host thingy seems to be displaying quite small pictures. Not that it reduces the awesome rating or anything.

Anyway... Well done to have got to this stage! Praise be to the Omnisiah! Wait... Blackadder must be the Machine God! Then what does that make Buldrick? Well, I'd going to go for the Emperor myself...

Cosmic wrote: Now she's a really becoming a true Titan, Blackadder! The weapon joins are a cracking idea. BTW, your new image website host thingy seems to be displaying quite small pictures. Not that it reduces the awesome rating or anything.

Anyway... Well done to have got to this stage! Praise be to the Omnisiah! Wait... Blackadder must be the Machine God! Then what does that make Buldrick?

Best kept secret... Baldrick is the Emperor!

Click on the image for the full sized display, the images are shrunk to fit your computer screen. If you DL them you get the full size as well.

Well I can assume someone might want to DL them,

EB

I don't see the hose connections on the head?

I swear, sometimes I look at your photos and think you've just been playing an elaborate senseless prank. Great work.

Wow Blackadder, I love it. In one year you've made a monster in your spare time!! and saved lots of money by not buying forgeworld.

You have inspironed us all.

it's utterly gorgous I have to say. WOW I mean just WOW great work all around, and though I applaud you I have but one question: in the end time/money wise was this cheaper overall for you if you combine the time to build it plus materials then buying a forge world one? I know building your own especially that cool is better, but I just mean in a economical sense.

Why climb a mountain when you could easily take a helicopter to the top. Why learn to play an instrument when you can listen to a recorded symphony. There is a certain satisfaction in model building that pays bigger dividends than the actual acquisition of the object. Time and money is not an issue although it would surely kill me to pay the better part of $500.00 for a model kit.

Blackadder

You have made a wise investment, no one in the world will have as detailed and as personal a warhound as you. or as pose-able!

Keep it going!

very true my good man, and I concur it was definately a worthwhile investment for you.

Agreed

I really wnna see it painted,

any estimates on when you will finish construction?

DC

Then I'm afraid you will have to build your own, I am so close now I don't want to take the chance and rush the end work. I'm working on the leg armour right now; not too much to show but I should have it close to completed this weekend, er; the leg armour that is. Two millimeters seems a bit too thin and the ankle armour is a real bear. Getting the proportions and angles right and still allowing for the flexibility. This model wasn't really meant to walk or my proportions are off.

Nahh! It wasn't meant to walk.

I reject FW's reality and substitute my own,

Blackadder

Good work! This should bulk up her lower legs a bit. I must say that I do like the look of warhounds. It's possible to imagine them actually walking. When I see these huge EMPRAH CLASS TITAN! scratch builds I just think:

"Yeah, you've done a great job, but seriously... That's just a fancy monument! How could it possibly walk?" kind o' thing. Well, I suppose it's 40k, so anything's possible. (Such as dwarfs in space for instance...)

++Thread hijack STOP!++ Anyways, all the best with getting this bit done this weekend. We look forward to seeing the results!

(P.S. I don't know whether this has been mentioned earlier, but do you prime your components after you've finished them? The grey model areas have always made me wonder about it...)

Cosmic,

Many years ago I started priming my models with Krylon Sandable Grey Automotive Primer. It goes on thin, dries instantly and gives great coverage. The silly bast---s went and changed the nozzle so you can't spray as thin a coat and I'm using my last can with the old nozzle for Lucie. When that's empty I'm screwed.

EB


Automatically Appended Next Post:
BTW I still want to do the Dave Smith Warlord with full regalia and that is a believable rendering of an imperial titan.

Blackadder


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Cosmic wrote: Good work! This should bulk up her lower legs a bit.

Hey wait a minute! You still think the lower legs are too scrawny??? I though I licked that problem.

One doesn't tease the Blackadder with impunity

LOL

EB

The_Blackadder wrote: Two millimeters seems a bit too thin...

Yes, it's actually 3mm. Hope these photos help with the angles. At first I thought it was based off of a square box, but the angle jig in the photo's is 90 degrees, they flare out father than I thought. The other photos I tried to take on the same plane as the Armour when possible.















Sometimes I really hate the Dakka image servers, half finished uploads my ass.

That's terrific, thanks a lot. One thing though; whats the measurement across the square front panel?

The 'rectangle' front of the greaves is 29.5mm x 47mm. Is that what you were asking about?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

The_Blackadder wrote:Many years ago I started priming my models with Krylon Sandable Grey Automotive Primer. It goes on thin, dries instantly and gives great coverage. The silly bast---s went and changed the nozzle so you can't spray as thin a coat and I'm using my last can with the old nozzle for Lucie. When that's empty I'm screwed.

Is it a special design? I have bags full of different spray can nozzels, they can pop right on and off. That is how I make sure they stay clean between sprays.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
That is really weird, I answered your question a little while ago, but it never posted.....


29.5mm x 47mm

Well this is the first comformation that my model is in the ballpark scalewise. I calculated from visual evidence that the front panel of the 'greaves' was 30,0 X 48,0 mm but when I made the cardboard mockup the ankle pistons locked up because they hit the armour so not knowing the side skirts flaired at the back edge I widened the front panel to 35,0 X ~ 50,0 mm adjusting the height proportionately. Now it looks too damned big and your information about the shin armour not being square in cross section may allow me to scale it back to the original size. If my guestimate was only off by 0,5 mm the whole model (With the exception of the waist block is fairly accurate.) Thanks for the information. You are a godsend Jabba.

BTW "greaves" is a good name for this piece of armour but 'griefs' would be more appropo.

Blackadder

Hi Blackadder,

I've been watching this blog for quite some time now and I have to say that it's a superb piece of modelling. I doff my cap to you and will use your model as inspiration so that one day(!), I will get round to modelling a Ryza pattern Reaver in full Warmongers regalia!

Just a quick, Baldrick-esque cunning plan for you Re: the basecoat spray paint you use. you may already have tried this and I may be teaching you to suck eggs as it were (no offence intended if so) but you mentioned that they have stopped producing the cans with the fine spray nozzle. I was just wondering if they are similar cans to normal spray paint as I have often managed to inadvertantly pull the nozzle off the can when cleaning it which reveals the little plastic feeder tube underneath. Maybe you could pull the fine nozzle of one of the old cans and pop it onto the newer ones? Apologies again if you've already tried this and I'm stating the obvious.

Looking forawrd to seeing Lucie finished!

All the best,

tsd

Edit: Sorry, I missed Jabba's post above first time round, have just read it and realised he had already addressed this.

The new nozzle is incompatible with the old valve and vis-versa. The new nozzle has an adjustable horizontal/vertical spray pattern that uses too much paint and actually offers less control than the old style nozzle that has been around for more than fifty years.

That's progress for you. Bah!

EB

I respect the grumpy-ness. I used to buy GW spray paint in shadow grey and catachan green. Even though my space wolves and IG armies still weren't painted after all that opportunity at least I had the chance!

Now its been taken away and replaced with a gimmicky, over priced, waste of time and paint spray gun!!

Oh well, I must be getting old.

But your titan looks great. A crazy suggestion would be that you could have hinges on the greaves, so that they 'flap' over the ankle joins to give you more movement.

I know, I'm crazy!! But you can't do something like that with Resin, why not do it when scratchbuilding!!

s.j.mccartney wrote:A crazy suggestion would be that you could have hinges on the greaves, so that they 'flap' over the ankle joins to give you more movement.

I know, I'm crazy!! But you can't do something like that with Resin, why not do it when scratchbuilding!!

Not such a crazy suggest at all and I am thinking along similar lines. These pantloons just appear a tad too big still and if I shrink them smaller they will inhibit the movement. These segmented panels do appear lend themselves to opening when the various components are flexing. Do you think they are segmented for that purpose and if so what is the purpose of the waist and thigh armour segments?

EB

I took a week off from building because I was becoming too complacent in my work. It's a telltale sign that I have been over saturated and tend to get sloppy but last night I got my groove back and put the finishing touches on the armour i.e. cut the grooves for the panel segments. I first shallow scored the plasticard with my utility knife and then made a few more passes to deepen the scores. The holding the knife at an angle I made furrows on either side of the scored lines and sanded the raised ridges smooth. Then with a razor saw I deepened and straightened the furrows and filed the surface smooth again.

The grooves look about done and the armour as you see it is just clipped in place for now.

EB

Looks perfect. Gonna have any icons on the greaves?

The greaves are just clipped on the lower joint and not permanently mounted. I've been toying with the idea of branding the small icon squares in the plasticard and filling in the detail. I have to practice on some scrap before I attempt it on the actual model.

Any decorations will be added after it's been painted.

thanks for the reply,

EB

Are you planning any banners?

Glad you reminded me, I actually made some banners for the exposed (unarmoured) shins and put them in my holding bin. It's probably about time to install them I believe. doh!

EB


Automatically Appended Next Post:
BTW, What's the diameter of the rubber electrical conduit. I just found some very flexible tight spiral metal coils from a thermostat probe that is slightly less than a quarter inch in diameter and would look fantastic for electrical conduit.

EB

Close enough, 7/32" to be most accurate. ;-)

Actually, looking through the bits, I've got two three inch lengths of both styles, you want em?

Its looking good. Lucy is almost there!!

s.j.mccartney wrote:Its looking good. Lucy is almost there!!

I though Lucy is in the skies with diamonds?

Most impressive and extravagant build, Blackadder.. a shame it isen't motorised so you could radio-control it on the tabletop..

jabbakahut wrote:Close enough, 7/32" to be most accurate. ;-)

Actually, looking through the bits, I've got two three inch lengths of both styles, you want em?

That's a mighty generous offer check your PM.

Thx, Blackadder

I've pretty much decided to go with the FW original paint job.



I've seen a lot of colour schemes and I like this one the best. As of right now I've only the void projectors, exhaust stacks, the cable conduit and connectors, the cockpit windows and head armour and a bit more detail on the armament and I'll be ready to paint. I'm hoping to get the void projectors and exhausts completed tomorrow.

Blackadder

Really? Stock style paint job? I hate to be a nay-sayer, but you can come up with something better.

I think BoLS has a lot of the titan legion color schemes, I've been trying to figure what to do with my reaver. I really like the stock reaver paint job, but I just feel one should distinguish their titan from the FW painted examples.

Are you magnetizing the void shields? Ever since I saw someone do that I was jealous, I'll be sure to put that on my reaver.

jabbakahut wrote:Really? Stock style paint job? I hate to be a nay-sayer, but you can come up with something better.

Not really, I just copy work. when it comes to originality I'm a rather unimaginative basic fellow witness my tank colour schemes.

I think BoLS has a lot of the titan legion color schemes, I've been trying to figure what to do with my reaver. I really like the stock reaver paint job, but I just feel one should distinguish their titan from the FW painted examples.

Being different for difference sake isn't necessarily a good thing. I'm not going to copy every last detail I just like the yellow and grey motif.

Are you magnetizing the void shields? Ever since I saw someone do that I was jealous, I'll be sure to put that on my reaver.

"Magnetize the void shields?" ????

The void shield projectors are those four little mushroom shaped protuberances atop the generator housings. How they generate a three dimensional field I can't imagine. I picture a void shield as something like a clock bell jar

encasing the vehicle (Kind of like the shields in the original 'War of the Worlds' movie with Gene Barry.)

which in the case of a model would save a lot of dusting. 'Chuckle'

EB

Trying to find some decent paint. Some flat Caterpillar yellow should do the trick. Just the windows and conduit connectors to go

Can't wait to see some paint on the beast. Are you gonna use GW paint?

Wow, that thing is really looking good. Can't wait to see it fully painted. Bravo Sir!

Lucie has been free standing for a few days now. the rubber bands are to keep the right spur in place during re-gluing. I accidentally broke the spur off. It just happened that my ham fisted hands managed to break off one of the spurs when press fitting the greaves for the first time. The rear appendage is firmly glued and pinned this time so a repeat mishap is not likely.

The greaves are removable for ease of painting and maintenance and are just pinned in place with 0.060" plastic rods and sockets.

Blackadder

Lucie appears to have a hulking appearance of late. After all the concern that the legs looked too flimsy it turns out that they appear more massive than that of the original.

That's alight I like my females with a healthy set of gams.

EB

Just got my computer back up and running today. I had a big problem with reloading windows and have been virtually off line for the better part of two weeks. Naturally the first thing I checked was my emails. Not very many replies from the various forum I usually frequent. I've done some major revamping of the the head and cockpit and finally made the windows and windshield. I installed the cockpit crew and made them so they are visible though the windows. Not technically accurate as looking at the cockpit layout the crew actually sits below the window sill! That doesn't make sense to me so I changed their position. Perhaps their seats elevate so they can look actually around. Anyway thats my story. My son is still looking for the airbrush. I asked him for it about a week ago so I don't hold out much hope that it's still available. Guess I'll bite the bullet and buy a new one.

Taking some pictures later but really not much to show for such a long hiatus.

hey, that looked really cool. I hope you get a tonne out of it.

.. just read this thread from start to finish.
Wow.
Blackadder, your work is amazing you should be proud

Liking the idea of putting guys in the cockpit and making them nice and visible. I've been thinking of doing the same for mine once I build one....
Anyway, could we get some pics of the filled cockpit? Oh wait, right, there will be. But with that airbrush, the problem with that sort of stuff is it always ends up reappearing once you get the new one, lol. Well, continue with the good work

It seems Lucie is finally finished; as far as manufacturing the parts is concerned anyway. All that is left is the final assembly after painting. Thanks to all who showed such patience during the nine months (actually eight because I didn't start in earnest until the middle of April last.)

I did a major revamping of the roof panel on the cockpit because once the brow trim was added the overhang did not look thick enough. I added another millimetre to the thickness which still isn't as much as the original but I think gives the head a bit more sleek overall appearance. See I'm not slavish in my attempt to copy, (Yeah, Right). My rationale is; this is the Lucius MarkII version. Anyone who has an original FW product can readily see that I widened the hull on my version and of course faired in the void generator housings into the top engine compartment. I straightened the fore to aft angle on the side of the carapace and lowered the overall height the void generator housing projects above the carapace. These were not mistakes as the changes greatly please me aesthetically. If I were to built a FW 'hound I would attempt to incorporate these amendments into that model as well.

The void shield projectors and the exhaust stacks (Thats the little cylindrical pieces strung on the wire for painting in the foreground.) are finished as well. I still debating whether to put the rivet detail on the greaves. They look so tiny compared to the massiveness of the panels on the original.

I'm using Ambroid thin cement now and I must say its a lot more volatile than Tamiya. It evaporates before I can set the rivets so I have to glue them one at a time whereas with Tamiya I could put a few dots of liquid and set two or three rivets before it dried. A word to the wise "Don't leave the cap loose on the vial of Ambroid overnight or you will have significantly less the next day."

I used the empty Tamiya bottle to store the Ambroid glue as its less prone to tipping and the applicator brush is much better for applying fine detail. The brush is the main reason I stopped using Ambroid years ago.

Any suggestions or critiques will be welcome because I plan to paint this sucker this weekend,

Blackadder

I have just read this thread and have enjoyed watching the Titan, - sorry Lucie, grow over the months.

You're attention to detail is phenomenal, and by virtue of that, the end result is nothing short of spectacular.

I've kept my home cooked projects limited to terrain, but this has really made me want to go and create something huge. Unfortunately, I'm not sure i'd have the patience, know-how or skill to endeavor on such a project. - Curse my Shovel-like hands!

The big question now is, after getting her painted up, what's next?

Rinkydink wrote:I have just read this thread and have enjoyed watching the Titan, - sorry Lucie, grow over the months.

You're attention to detail is phenomenal, and by virtue of that, the end result is nothing short of spectacular.

I've kept my home cooked projects limited to terrain, but this has really made me want to go and create something huge. Unfortunately, I'm not sure i'd have the patience, know-how or skill to endeavor on such a project. - Curse my Shovel-like hands!

The big question now is, after getting her painted up, what's next?

It's no secret I covet the Dave Smith Warlord titan.



http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk260/The_Blackadder/WARLORD%20TITAN/

I think I'll have a go at that.

And I still have that Thunderhawk on back burner



EB

I also love the Dave Smith. One thing at a time though!! Keep it going. Paint is next!

Oh man. You have so got to build a warlord.

Titan looks great. One looking at the final pictures, after primer, would have a hard time believing it is scratchbuilt unless they have the actual FW model next to it for detailed comparison.

Good luck for the paint job, you should take the time needed to do Lucie justice, 1 week-end sounds rushed if you want to do something more than a basecoat.

Anyway, wan't wait to see the painted Titan, and good luck for the Warlord build.

you sir are a converting machine. Ney this isn't even converting this is creating !!!!!!!!!

What is there to say? Apart from: Well done for getting this far, Blackadder! It's been fun to follow your epic WIP of Lucie...

For the Emprah!

This project has been pure dedication. You are a pro.

If you need detail shots of the thunderhawk give me a pm.

Agreed!

I uploaded some thunderhawk detail picks tell me when you want them.

I want them!

sonofruss wrote:I uploaded some thunderhawk detail picks tell me when you want them.

jabbakahut wrote:I want them!

ASAP and post them here if you please. It keeps this thread alive whilst I practice painting Lucie. There seems to be an interest.

Thanks,

EB

well you asked for it

































Some are blurry

sonofruss wrote:well you asked for it

Thanks for telling me I thought my eyes were going bad. Great photos and a lot of detail I haven't seen before. So you purchased a Thunderhawk kit or did you buy it on ebay? I'll see if these whet my son's appetite to continue the build. Well the paint should be dry, time for another coat.

EB

Whoops sorry,

Blackadder

Two years old Xmas pressy from my brother this years is a reaver with titan ccw, melta cannon and apoc launcher family with money FTW. If you need some more detail shots of the thunderhawk tell me what area and what parts there are so many parts.

Egad and gadzooks, the world has gone mad. A Warhound has sold for $217.50 on ebay and god help me I was watching the item but missed the final bid time.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120523808391&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Have all my endeavours been for naught??? Has the bottom dropped out of the Warhound market as well?

Even I would fork over $250 bucks (including shipping) to possess an original even if it had fallen off a table (anything can be repaired unless its melted)

A greatly distraught Blackadder

The_Blackadder wrote:

Thanks for telling me I thought my eyes were going bad. Great photos and a lot of detail I haven't seen before. So you purchased a Thunderhawk kit or did you buy it on ebay? I'll see if these whet my son's appetite to continue the build. Well the paint should be dry, time for another coat.

EB

PLEASE DON"T QUOTE LARGE WALLS OF TEXT, GOSH DARN IT!

Klawz wrote:

The_Blackadder wrote:

Thanks for telling me I thought my eyes were going bad. Great photos and a lot of detail I haven't seen before. So you purchased a Thunderhawk kit or did you buy it on ebay? I'll see if these whet my son's appetite to continue the build. Well the paint should be dry, time for another coat.

EB

PLEASE DON"T QUOTE LARGE WALLS OF TEXT, GOSH DARN IT!

Bla bla bla, listen to my caplock text....


@blackadder: That does seem like an incredible price, but you have more experience stripping and reclaiming models, I've never done that. I see it as as a 250$ gamble.

Klawz wrote:

The_Blackadder wrote:

Thanks for telling me I thought my eyes were going bad. Great photos and a lot of detail I haven't seen before. So you purchased a Thunderhawk kit or did you buy it on ebay? I'll see if these whet my son's appetite to continue the build. Well the paint should be dry, time for another coat.

EB

PLEASE DON"T QUOTE LARGE WALLS OF TEXT, GOSH DARN IT!

it was not a wall of text it was a wall of pics and it is his thread by the way

And to be honest, I don't mind seeing a thunderhawk twice

You will see it more than twice when the detail gets to the point the warhound did and there are more things that I haven't taken picks of ether

The long anticipated painting has begun and in the main it's coming out as well as I expected. I did a lot of masking the first week and experimenting with my antique airbrush. After a thorough cleaning it was working good as new but the fine spray tip assembly is missing and no local hobby stores support the Badger 350 anymore.

I'm a bit disappointed in the metallic paint on the legs but as everything is only the base coat I should be able to rectify the shininess.

Anyway here she is showing her colours. Please bear in mind this is only the basic paint. The detailing will begin when I get the fine tip assembly.

Blackadder

You, mister Blackadder, are a legend. An inspiration. Hope the painting continues to go well

Very impressive.

Thanks for the quick replies. In case anyone is wondering; I popped the shield generator louvers off of the back to add some lead weight to the generator housing. Lucie is front heavy.

I likes 'em front heavy but not toppling over front heavy.

EB

Hi,

I've just spent half an hour speeding through this build, I've got to say it is just amazing! I can't believe the lengths you have gone to to recreate this warhound. You must love constructing models!

Can't wait to see the finished product!

Um, I can't believe I didn't notice it before, is that extension between the hips and main body set? Is it just sitting on there? It has to be just how it's sitting right?

jabbakahut wrote:Um, I can't believe I didn't notice it before, is that extension between the hips and main body set? Is it just sitting on there? It has to be just how it's sitting right?

Would you believe:

A telescoping feature I incorporated into the Mark II version so Lucie can see over obstacles...

A launching motar to propel the main body into orbit if the battle is going poorly.

A device to make Lucie seem bigger than she is to frighten off larger titans.

A transparent ploy to garner responses?

All of the above?

None of the above?

Jeez Jabba ya gotta give me a little credit. Actually the pivot shaft is a close tolerance fit so the body doesn't wobble and a few layers of paint prevented the body from seating all the way down.

I can't believe you'd think I made a mistake like that! LOL

The cut down a peg Blackadder

"Down a peg" get it?

EB

Just want to say this looks amazing! Even my GF(who is not into WH 40K) said it looked awesome! Though she thought it looked like an Wall-E

Greetings from Holland

Gorgeous. Utterly gorgeous.

The_Blackadder wrote:Actually the pivot shaft is a close tolerance fit so the body doesn't wobble and a few layers of paint prevented the body from seating all the way down.

I can't believe you'd think I made a mistake like that! LOL

No, I never thought it was really, just looked so odd, yet it also looked like it belonged that way. Are you just going to force it down when you're ready?

My dear Sir; A Gentleman never uses force therefore a good whack with a hammer oughta set it. Actually after I've finished painting I'll scrape the overspray off and she'll be right as rain TYVM,

Great to be back on line again.

Addicted to the internet Blackadder




Automatically Appended Next Post:
My local art supply house has let me down. They promised to have the fine tip assembly for my airbrush in Friday last but came a cropper. Monday is my best hope for continuing the painting. On a brighter note I did paint the armament; pictures to follow..............

Now where did I put that Hawkeye (Kodak (®))

EB

The yellow is Testors Flat Yellow in those tiny jars which cost over a buck and a half now. I remember when they were a dime a jar??? I don't like water base paint and it's only the base coat. I'm going to wash it out with some shadowing with rust and highlighting with various shades of lighter yellow and orange in hopes of achieving a similar look to the FW offering. The Carapace will be likewise highlighted and a subtle coat of blue to add depth would not be amiss. The metallic paint on the legs and feet was a total mistake and I efforting to remedy that.

Looks clean.

Wow, you are old, a dime?

So you don't paint with any acrylic?

I still have an old jar with 10 cents stamped on the lid.

Hope I don't break a hip going down stairs to get it.

EB

A rare glimpse into the Adder's Sanctum Sanctorum that holiest of holies; my work bench. Rarely is it as neat as in these pictures I just cleared it of construction mess and substituted painting mess. I was surprised how much paint I had left from ten years ago and real toxic stuff at that.

Flo-Quill railroad colours remember that.

WARNING Known by the state of California to cause cancer in white mice!!!

Hell! Everything causes cancer in white mice.

Anyhow I got my 'fine' tip assembly for the antique Badger and tried it out today and here is the result. Naturally I didn't practice because what I do first always comes out best and it's all downhill from there so I did the yellow parts mainly because I was scared to do them. I used Testors flat yellow and added red blemishes with ModelMasters British red which is almost a burgundy colour and goes on the yellow in what appears to me a close match to the FW yellow headed Warhound.



Okay so I'm fairly good at modeling but I fairly suck at painting.

Blackadder

Looks cool.

I like it, but it looks a little uniform, needs different shapes. Are you doing corrosion, or that camo pattern as in the FW one? I think your orange is too dark is that was your goal.

jabbakahut wrote:I like it, but it looks a little uniform, needs different shapes. Are you doing corrosion, or that camo pattern as in the FW one? I think your orange is too dark is that was your goal.

There are whitish patches still to be added that should tone down the vividness of the colours. All in the course of due time my dear Sir.

EB


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I just couldn't wait to peel all that masking tape off. I had to see what the damages from over spray were and see how the colours complement each other. Not too bad but a hint of steely blue I think is in order for the carapace and hull. I'm rather pleased with the yellow armor, a few touch ups here and there are needed and that's all. I had to reassemble Lucie to show her at her best; a waste of valuable painting time I know.

Blackadder

Those colors do work well together, some pages ago I think I gave you guff for doing the FW pattern, but it does looking very striking.

You didn't answer my previous query... Do you never use acrylic? Or just through the airbrush you don't?

jabbakahut wrote:Those colors do work well together, some pages ago I think I gave you guff for doing the FW pattern, but it does looking very striking.

You didn't answer my previous query... Do you never use acrylic? Or just through the airbrush you don't?

I don't remember any guff, you just said I could be more original than to copy the FW model. Well I could but my tendency is to follow a strict military motif which would be a basic somber colour or earth tone camouflage neither of which would be very striking on such a flamboyant vehicle. I figured if I didn't like the yellow colour I could always change the armour to a military colour with a minimum of effort. Well I do like the yellow so I'll stick with it for the nonce.

I had some bad experience with acrylic when I used it to paint some vintage 1860 rolling stock for my Civil war HO railroad. even with the airbrush the cover was so poor that to get the right shade coincidentally yellow on the passenger cars I used so many coats the siding detail was obliterated. I resolved then to never use acrylics again unless I was painting a room. Quite possibly acrylics have improved since then but I'll stick with what I know best.

BTW I have the most extensive set of Civil war engines and cars quite possibly in the world including a scratch built conversion of a Mantua 'General' to the original Rogers model as she rolled out of the Paterson Locomotive works in 1855. I'll take a picture of it if you're interested. That also took a long time to built but mainly because the parts were all white metal and brass and soldered together.

Thanks for the response,

EB

OOOOh black adder is a fellow train guy huh I have been on the sp 4449 and have picks hehe

Painted the greaves for a color test, I can't decide of they're too blue.

Blackadder

Go with the blue; it adds a lot of depth to the model. Besides, this modle deserves every bit of attention you can give her!

I like the colors, I would work to remove the poke-a-dot feel though.

The images I have of the FW Warhound show in various lights the carapace and hull painted with the same blue to gray camouflage depending on the lighting. I've toned down the spots but I like the concept except for the side skirts which don't work for me

I will be painting the hull and carapace the same colour and pattern and I'm concerned that it will be too busy or too blue. I looks right in the pictures but as you can guess I hesitate to commit as I only have one shot at getting it right.

The FW samples:


As you can see I'm spot on with the greaves. (Groan),

Blackadder

Spot on, good sir! Pip pip, and Cheerio!

Did you leave it so her legs are posable or did you have to lock them down for stability?

Lookin' awesome!

Looks great, I think painting the grey like that wouldn't look too blue.

Wow, I should look before I leap. I thought the FW style was more like diffused clouds, it actually looks spot on sir!

Wow... *Looks at his own partially finished Scratchbuild*

Mine doesn't even compare. Great Job. I don't think you can actually tell the difference between yours and the Forgeworld one.

That is the most Amazing Scratchbuild I have seen.

Of course everyone does realize the last five images I posted were from the FW catalog.

My posting of this thread was to inspire and demonstrate building techniques not to discourage builders Anthasu1. Not everyone is cursed with my particular brand of manic compulsion for which they should be truly grateful. I look forward to seeing your scratchbuilt posted.

Thanks for the replies,

EB

No you were right Jabba, the FW paintjob on the greaves demonstrate two styles of spotting. I did mine likewise and prefer the mottled style to the spotty style.

BTW I've discovered that this paintjob is actually dedicated to a particular legion, that of the 'War Gryphons'(sic). Not being totally up on the 40K division of command I thought the titans were separate from individual legions and were under the command/control of the Adeptus Mechanicus anyway this is their unit emblem which match the unit colours with the model nicely:


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I would have preferred the model to be independent of any particular unit but I suppose it will have to do.

The rogue Blackadder

looking superb Blackie.

I wouldnt worry about the warhound market. Ebay is a fickle mistress. Last year I got a jackal class for £170 on ebay then the following week managed to get another jack mint untouched for £200 on CDO.

Since then I've seen them on ebay going for above RRP (i'll never figure why FW stuff does that).

If it's put together I can kindof understand it, considering how hard some FW models are to assemble.

I've never bought an assembled FW model off of ebay that didn't have to be taken apart as it is invariably assembled wrong. Each piece then had to be cleaned, flash removed, filled, sanded, shaped, reassembled for proper fit and here's my bugaboo, painted. Of course I only bought derelicts but even well assembled models at first glance have grievous mistakes such as the recent Baneblades sold had some of the treads on backwards. I can only imagine how a tyro model builder could screw up the toes and legs on a Warhound.

Of course I am the anal retentive Blackadder

]Wikipedia states,"The term anal retentive (also anally retentive), commonly abbreviated to anal, is used conversationally to describe a person with such attention to detail that the obsession becomes an annoyance to others, and can be carried out to the detriment of the anal-retentive person. The term derives from Freudian psychoanalysis."

Not to be confused with the term arsehole which may or mayn't apply as well,

EB