How do you get super glue to work better?

Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:

No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
Times and dates in your local timezone.
Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.

If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

**orkishlyorkish**

How do you get super glue to both bond and work better on both metal and plastic models? I need to finish glueing 1-2 tactical squads, 1 Assault squad and as many metal and plastic tau, eldar and IG as I can by tonight and all I have is super glue and so far it hasn't worked out so well. I do have a fan with me to help dry the glue faster but it only helps slightly. Got any advice anyone? If I could I would go get plastic glue but it's too late to go buy and I need to finish most of it tonight.

-Orkishly

**ryzouken**

Pinning. Use a small drill bit to drill into each side of each join, insert part of a paper clip into the two holes and glue together for a tight seam.

Works like rebar in concrete.

**orkishlyorkish**

Good idea. I know a GW that has good size drills for that. Unfortunately I don't have a drill bit at the moment. Any other methods that are good for a quick solution?

-Orkishly

**malfred**

Waaagh Gonads once told me to use thin tissue paper to act a medium.

Other suggestions given to me was to score the metal with a blade.

Currently I include greenstuff in my joins to help hold things in place while the glue sets.

**orkishlyorkish**

What do you mean by act as a medium? Should I put it between the 2 sides? Also I found out that GS works great since I foun a minute amount on one of the models I got (got them for free) so I spread any I could spare so that helped get 1 model done.

-Orkishly
Also as soon as you say that what you said with the tissue paper (would Kleenex work?) is what I thought it means, I'm gonna try it.

**malfred**

WG told me to use 1 ply toilet paper. Thin thin thin.

I used it on a warjack and as far as I know it still works (gave it away).

Yes, he told me to put it between the two sides. I forget what else he said about it, though.

**chromedog**

The main trick is knowing how much to use and how much is too much.

Pinning helps with certain models (I"ve got hands pinned into wrists of 25mm models but it does take a very steady hand (steadier the smaller the hole as those 0.3mm HSS bits will snap easily).

Accelerant is also sometimes a good thing. Only sometimes, though. Sometimes the heat produced by accelerating the exothermic curing will melt/warp plastics.

**orkishlyorkish**

OK thanks a lot I'm going to try it right now. So far I've gotten 10 IG Valhalla ice warrior models done (do you know what they are because I got them for free and don't no anything about them), 3 Assault Marines and 1 PR marine, 1 rocket marine and 1 regular marine done. Not to mention those space wolves that are half done.

-Orkishly

**Goodge**

use aroldite

**Zip Napalm**

Don't ask me why, but something in cigarette smoke makes super glue harden instantly. I learned this from a guy who was an army medic and later paramedic. They used it for closing wounds quickly. Weird huh?

**orkishlyorkish**

Zip Napalm wrote:Don't ask me why, but something in cigarette smoke makes super glue harden instantly. I learned this from a guy who was an army medic and later paramedic. They used it for closing wounds quickly. Weird huh?

That's..... Freaky. Anyways the toilet paper trick works for getting the model to get on the base easily and to attach legs to the body.
Guess how hard it is to get a TH onto a SM assault squad seargant? It took me the past 30 minutes to just get that part done.Right now I have 3 and a half SM's done and 3 and a half Assault SM done. gotta get back to work. Keep the idea's coming please. I'm most interested in easy fast idea's for now but I will use better idea's tomorrow.

EDIT: Turning in for the night. Got 4 and 4 done in total and found 2 or 3 models that are only primed and unassembled and I think they're either vanguard vets or they're Honor guards (I think or is it called command?) And they have relic blades and PW's. I also got 10 IG metal models done and 3 space wolves done.

-Orkishly

Automatically Appended Next Post:

chromedog wrote:The main trick is knowing how much to use and how much is too much.

Pinning helps with certain models (I"ve got hands pinned into wrists of 25mm models but it does take a very steady hand (steadier the smaller the hole as those 0.3mm HSS bits will snap easily).

Accelerant is also sometimes a good thing. Only sometimes, though. Sometimes the heat produced by accelerating the exothermic curing will melt/warp plastics.

Ya I know what you mean. I have 2 models that I needed to attach the plasma pistols to the wrists and one also had a TH. It needed to be cut until it would balance on the model without falling off.

**EOD Tech**

There is also ZAP Kicker, which is supposed to speed up the drying/curing process of super glue. Never tried it myself though.

**Sgt Rinehart**

Tissue paper definitely works. I used some to help attach an arm to a Killa Kan and that joint is rock solid.

**orkishlyorkish**

Sgt Rinehart wrote:Tissue paper definitely works. I used some to help attach an arm to a Killa Kan and that joint is rock solid.

For me it worked well with plastic things that where bigish (like body to legs) but it doesn't work for really heavy metal. Ork boss with the rocket pack thing (forgot his name) has VERY heavy arms.

-Orkishly

**KingCracker**

Pinning and GEL super glue works well enough. Its just sticky enough to help hold itself and the pin is just an untold rule, you HAVE TO DO IT lol

**orkishlyorkish**

KingCracker wrote:Pinning and GEL super glue works well enough. Its just sticky enough to help hold itself and the pin is just an untold rule, you HAVE TO DO IT lol

Would if I could get to GW today to get the drill and plastic glue

Do you know how hard it is to make a full tactical squad, assault squad and any other models you can find, when all you have is plastic glue and tissue paper!!! lol

-Orkishly

Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also why does super glue stick to everything except what you're trying to glue! Another idea, why not make it able to instantly bond to METAL instead of my SKIN!!! My hands are so hard right now from layers of glue that a pin couldn't pierce through.

-Orkishly

**broxus**

I cant recommend using Model Master Plastic Cement enough to anyone. This stuff is so very good its close to amazing. It holds your models together so well and even after its glued and dryign you can move and pose them. Its simply AMAZING and never becomes brittle and break.

**karmaiko**

It's likely due to the extremely nonpolar compounds released in cigarette smoke accelerating the curing process.
On a side note - you can (and I say 'can' purely to not get into a large argument over this 'issue') get cancer from cigarette smoke when you body tries to phosphorylate the specific nonpolar compounds to make it more polar and soluble; when it has undergone this process twice it is perfect size to fit in between two DNA base pairs and alter the sequence!

**orkishlyorkish**

broxus wrote:I cant recommend using Model Master Plastic Cement enough to anyone. This stuff is so very good its close to amazing. It holds your models together so well and even after its glued and dryign you can move and pose them. Its simply AMAZING and never becomes brittle and break.

Ya I used that stuff once I think. It's mainly for model trains right? I have it somewhere in my house but it's lost in a pile of junk that would make it take hours to find. On a side note, all 5 assault SM's done and I finished 8 out of 10 SM's. Not including most still need the shoulder armour though.

-Orkishly

**Gavvin Quinn**

I use a super glue accelerant and it works great for glueing metal parts together. I simply put glue on the two parts, hit it with a quick spray and press them together (quickly!). The glue sets in 2-3 seconds. I have found, however, that this makes the superglue more brittle than normal and rough handling may cause the piece to break off.

**orkishlyorkish**

Gavvin Quinn wrote:I use a super glue accelerant and it works great for glueing metal parts together. I simply put glue on the two parts, hit it with a quick spray and press them together (quickly!). The glue sets in 2-3 seconds. I have found, however, that this makes the superglue more brittle than normal and rough handling may cause the piece to break off.

Yes but brittle would be better then not glued at all, right? Besides if it breaks you can just use the same trick again. Where do you get SG accelerant?

-Orkishly

**Gavvin Quinn**

I picked mine up from Hobby Lobby. I'm sure most hobby stores will carry it.

**vodski**

I heard that if you sprinkle on baking soda that helps SG to set quicker. Water accelerates the setting time , and I've heard of people licking one side of the joint after tha glue was put on the other. Gotta be carefull which side you lick of course , and don't try it on those old lead based ones.

**orkishlyorkish**

I wish I had some plastic glue -_- Anyways I finished 8 model from the tactical squad and use 2 of my extra mini's to finish the squad so that I can use 2 for my assault squad so that my AS has 7 models. Finished the other 5 models for the assault squad and I finished a tau commander. Anyone know why the SG doesn't stick very well in the first place? Isn't it supposed to be... wel, SUPER??

-Orkishly

**KingCracker**

Well super glue WAS originally used for instant skin bonding for combat medics.... No surprise it still bonds skin like a mofo.

I guess the answer to your problem is... GO OUT AND BUY SOME PLASTIC GLUE ALREADY!!!!

**orkishlyorkish**

Blah would if it weren't for:
A) sick at home at the moment. That's why I have soo much free time to glue.
B) Don't have the money

I hate how it bonds my skin =\ Also for some reason plastic glue also sticks to me. I think I'm part plastic.

-Orkishly

Automatically Appended Next Post:
Wait they used to bond skin with a poison toxic???

**jep'ray**

kicker, get Zip kicker and apply with a stick to areas with glue and Zip its set...

as for the superglue what brand are you using, some take longer to set than others...

**orkishlyorkish**

guess. GW SG lol. Where can I get kicker and whats the estimated price?

**KingCracker**

poison? TOXIC?! your kidding right? Yes its bad if you ignite it and sniff the aroma of super glue for some time. But it is STILL a very useful way to close up cuts. Only some people get skin irritation from using it in that manner.
And no money?!?! Your telling me that inside your couch isnt 95 cents?! Testors man! TESTORS!

**orkishlyorkish**

Hmm let me state clearer- I have no money that I am able to spend on warhammer 40k at this exact moment. I only have the super glue right now because I got it for free because someone was giving away 40k stuff.

EDIT: So it's not poisonous to get into your blood? Does that mean I can eat the glue now??!!