Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

i've got lots of advice, most unfortunately learned the hard way. the zip/zap kicker (aka glue accelerant) works like a charm with even the thick gap filling glue (the kind i generally use) drying in 2-3 seconds on the outer coat. that's strong enough to hold most pieces against the stress of gravity right away. to get the inner layer to dry, you have to wait a minute or two so i'd just move on to the next model. also, don't use the accelerant with a very thin cyanoacrylate glue because those types can run easily and you don't notice it easily. however, you WILL notice them running instantly if you use the accelerator since the chemical reaction produces alot of heat! it burns!!! i had glue unknowingly run into the webspace between my fingers before i nonchalantly sprayed the accelerator... it hurt... alot...

if you're using plastic pieces only, use the specific plastic only glue available from testors model master series or even the pricier gw variant. it melts the plastic together like a weld (instead of just gluing) and the models survive regular use alot better than with CA (cyanoacrylate aka super glue). if you have metal on plastic, use CA. also, if you get the plastic only glue, make sure it's a completely clear variety. i've tried variants that come in a tube (cream texture) as well as the liquids that are milky in color and they don't bond as well as the two i listed above.

finally, pinning is cheap and your friend. i didn't buy a specialty dremel but instead use my normal household drill. if you use the smallest one (i think it's the 1/16 size), the hole is big enough for the "pin" and some glue. what do i use for my "pin"? i clip the required length from a paper clip.

hope that helps! i had to come up with a bunch of solutions to keep my 2nd edition blood angels from becoming multiple amputees whenever some just knocked the table i was playing on.

Testor's plastic gel bottle is two b ucks.

Hmm...... it MIGHT glue your guts shut... and in some weird turn of events not make you hungry anymore? Im not in any way an authority on this matter so please dont do that and then sue me for saying you should

Also you cant use it on big nasty cuts or gashes. Rule of thumb is, if it needs stitches or more... goto the hospital lol

KingCracker wrote:Hmm...... it MIGHT glue your guts shut... and in some weird turn of events not make you hungry anymore? Im not in any way an authority on this matter so please dont do that and then sue me for saying you should

Also you cant use it on big nasty cuts or gashes. Rule of thumb is, if it needs stitches or more... goto the hospital lol

lol I was joking
Then again, I would save money on food


Thanks for all the advice warboss




-Orkishly

Kicker is sold in spray cans for 6-12 bucks depending on size, please work in a well ventilated area with this stuff it smells to high heaven... and DO NOT EAT CRAZY GLUE it contains some toxic stuff, to use on cuts is fine...

KingCracker wrote:
Also you cant use it on big nasty cuts or gashes. Rule of thumb is, if it needs stitches or more... goto the hospital lol

Superglue was used in the military as field-expedient stitches. That's why it works so well at glueing your fingers together.

Some interesting and/or useful facts from the superglue wiki entry:

Superglue was in veterinarian use for mending bone, hide, and tortise shell by at least the early 1970s. The inventor of cyanoacrylates, Harry Coover, said in 1966 that a superglue spray was used in the Vietnam war to slow bleeding in the wounded, whilst they were being transported to hospital. As it can irritate the skin, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration did not approve superglue's civilian medical use until 1998 when a variant called 2-octyl-cyanoacrylate was developed.

When added to baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), cyanoacrylate glue forms a hard, lightweight filler/adhesive (baking soda is first used to fill a gap then the adhesive is dripped into the baking soda). This works well with porous materials that the glue doesn't work well with alone. This method is sometimes used by aircraft modelers to assemble or repair polystyrene foam parts. It is also used to repair small nicks in the leading edge of composite propellor blades on light aircraft. Note that the reaction between cyanoacrylate and baking soda is very exothermic (heat producing) and also produces noxious vapors.

Another important trait is that cyanoacrylate sets quickly, often in less than a minute. A normal bond reaches full strength in two hours and is waterproof. Accelerators such as toluidine trigger setting in two or three seconds, with some loss of strength.

Acetone, which is commonly found in nail polish remover, is a widely available solvent capable of softening cured cyanoacrylate. Nitromethane is also an excellent solvent. Methylene chloride is the most effective solvent, but is toxic. Gamma-butyrolactone is also effective at removing cured cyanoacrylate, and has low toxicity.

Low temperatures cause cured cyanoacrylate to become brittle. Cyanoacrylate's bonds can be weakened (allowing disassembly) by placing a glued object in a household freezer for several hours. Opened containers of cyanoacrylate glue can also be delayed from prematurely setting by storing the containers in the household refrigerator.

In my own experience, GW glues are not only costly, but don't work well at all. I use a gel SG that holds pretty well, for the most part. Sure, after a few games, they're prone to fall apart, but that's because I don't pin...

The Testors Polystyrene Cement is awesome for plastic models, just don't get carried away squeezing the tube. If you get it on detail, it will melt it.

jep'ray wrote:Kicker is sold in spray cans for 6-12 bucks depending on size, please work in a well ventilated area with this stuff it smells to high heaven... and DO NOT EAT CRAZY GLUE it contains some toxic stuff, to use on cuts is fine...

Ya but wouldn't it present some hazard to the open wound? If it somehow sticks to a vein couldn't it cause blockage? And why would you think I would ACTUALLY eat super glue? It smells bad and doesn't look too appealing


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Ya but the GW plastic glue is pretty good. I have only had 2 models break. One because I had put it in my pocket by mistake and the other because my dreadnought had fallen onto my chair JUST as I sat down

I doubt doctors would apply superglue to a severed vein. I've had it used to repair a head wound with no ill effects - though admittedly the wound had stopped bleeding on it's own by this point.

Few tips for making better use of superglue

1. dont use GW superglue crap ...
2. Little is much(the more you use , the sooner it drops/stops holdin as well as it should be)

Thats the only things i can think of right now

I have had similiar problems about super glue (so i go for all plastic models) but what brand of super glue do you reccomend

preferably from hobby lobby or i guess it doesnt matter
sorry orkishly that im posting a question in your own forum lol =p

Loctite is the brand that I use. You can get it in an easy-to-squeeze bottle dispenser thing.

deffskullz wrote:I have had similiar problems about super glue (so i go for all plastic models) but what brand of super glue do you reccomend

preferably from hobby lobby or i guess it doesnt matter
sorry orkishly that im posting a question in your own forum lol =p

no problem But if anyone posts a brand of glue please post approximate price and store where we can buy it.



EDIT: Woohoo! I'm an angry BA assault marine! Also I just finished 7 assault marines and 10 tactical marines and fixed up 10 broken tactical marines. YAY! tomorrow I'm gonna work on my Tau pirannah OHH Also I'm getting plastic glue tomorrow. YAY!


-Orkishly

Aroldite is great, grab the 60 second stuff and it holds just as strong as super glue and pinning
it will hold after around 20 seconds, leave it overnight and it will be solid (pretty much impossible to take apart, so make sure its right)


My friend has also been known to use no nails glue lol, used it to stick the wings on his thirster (which held for years and has been dropped alot)
now the problem is he wanted to take the wings off.
3 hours later and using his model saw he actually got them off

JD21290 wrote:Aroldite is great, grab the 60 second stuff and it holds just as strong as super glue and pinning
it will hold after around 20 seconds, leave it overnight and it will be solid (pretty much impossible to take apart, so make sure its right)


My friend has also been known to use no nails glue lol, used it to stick the wings on his thirster (which held for years and has been dropped alot)
now the problem is he wanted to take the wings off.
3 hours later and using his model saw he actually got them off

Ya I have no nails glue. My dad said it might ruin the models when I wanted to use it. Will it actually ruin the model or is it ok to use it for something like boss whats-his-name (guy who's next to snikrot)? If I can use it I'm gonna try it tonight.

Yay I got myself some plastic glue and some tips while I was at it!! A guy who was painting at my FLGS told me to do the following.
Put very little glue on one side of what you're glueing. Only a drop is needed. Hold the pieces together and breath onto where the glue is drying. Not just blowing out air, but when you breath out from the back of your throat with hot air. It somehow causes the glue to become sticky and dry easier. Just tried this on wraithlord legs for the wraithlord I'm putting together and it worked the first time I tried!!! Also he said that the licking (I first licked my finger and then touched the platic with my finger btw because there is a possibility of lead) trick actually causes the glue to dry slower and with less grip.





-Orkishly