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i've always been a fan of sniper scouts
and upgrading with Telion to take out some pesky problem on the field
i bought on sniper squad used for ten dollars
i stripped of their old paint (using a technique i'll post later)

i bought these at my FLGS for $25


i decided to do something new this time...
paint them on the trees

i used a black spray primer


after letting it dry i laid down a coat of ultramarine blue on the armour bits


and the same with the legs


and the arms


next i painted kommando khaki on the cloth bits






then a layer of shining gold on the chest piece (i know people say to put down a layer of silver first...but i like a more darker feel)


a coat of red gore on the capes (i know they're camo cloaks, but i feel like red makes the look better)


and the back


boltgun metal on the rifles


and then prett much we're done
you can add little details as you see fit
but really i don't care
they're your models i won't stop you from doing what you want

here are my finished scouts


i added a black wash to them
because washes make EVERYTHING look better
enjoy

You're pictures are a bit blurry...but other than that a nice tutorial. Too bad I don't play marines

Ok this isn't that good quality for a guide 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings 2: You havent painted the eyes no highlights or even over coats.

Sorry but this isnt really an effective guide

Looks like a great tutorial to me. I've never tried painting scounts on the sprues first.

-=Scar=- wrote:Ok this isn't that good quality for a guide 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings 2: You havent painted the eyes no highlights or even over coats.

Sorry but this isnt really an effective guide

And I 100% disagree, black was DOES make everything look better, or at least more than just tanks and buildings. Highlighting isn't everything, and neither is multiple coats, a paint job like this is perfect for having a tabletop worthy army - they'll look fantastic from above.

I think it was well put, but i dont like the effects. I think the black washes were a little too much. There are still spots where the paint didnt cover. There is a rushed feeling to them. I dont like this speed painting idea. Thats not what the hobby was about. but thats just IMO

Yeah kudos to you for sticking up a tutorial for people - however you should maybe adjust the title to include something about it being basic tabletop quality so that people don't tear into your technique.

Well done and keep practicing.

-Jaxn

The unfortunate thing about painting on the sprue is that your glue won't bond plastic to plastic. There's a layer of paint between it, so the pieces will break apart easier than pieces joined completely by plastic glue.

i recommend you putting some watered down regal blue on armour, and another chaos black wash using a thinner. just so it gets to all the crevices. do the same thing on the fatigues and face (has to be a very thin layer) with a brown, i use scorched brown. then just do all the raised spots again with whatever colour you used at the beginning. after that your dudes should look pretty cool

anooci wrote:The unfortunate thing about painting on the sprue is that your glue won't bond plastic to plastic. There's a layer of paint between it, so the pieces will break apart easier than pieces joined completely by plastic glue.

seemed to work for me

Here's an example of the difference between washed and unwashed:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/289506.page

Admittedly there not AMAZING but they're certainly to tabletop standard!

NoToTheMan wrote:

anooci wrote:The unfortunate thing about painting on the sprue is that your glue won't bond plastic to plastic. There's a layer of paint between it, so the pieces will break apart easier than pieces joined completely by plastic glue.

seemed to work for me

Of course it works. o-o I'm saying the bond won't be as strong as a plastic to plastic bond.

anooci wrote:

NoToTheMan wrote:

anooci wrote:The unfortunate thing about painting on the sprue is that your glue won't bond plastic to plastic. There's a layer of paint between it, so the pieces will break apart easier than pieces joined completely by plastic glue.

seemed to work for me

Of course it works. o-o I'm saying the bond won't be as strong as a plastic to plastic bond.

true
but it will be easier to repaint if i decide to do so

-=Scar=- wrote:Ok this isn't that good quality for a guide 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings 2: You havent painted the eyes no highlights or even over coats.

Sorry but this isnt really an effective guide

Screw you! At least this guy tried. A lot better than your "angry guard". I use black washes for my Necrons all the time. You, sir, are a dick.

EricOfDreams wrote:

-=Scar=- wrote:Ok this isn't that good quality for a guide 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings 2: You havent painted the eyes no highlights or even over coats.

Sorry but this isnt really an effective guide

Screw you! At least this guy tried. A lot better than your "angry guard". I use black washes for my Necrons all the time. You, sir, are a dick.

I secound your statement, its a good tutorial, not how i did my scouts...... there almost all black, the skin and hairs painted, the guns are black except for a few lights, and i glued static grass to there cloaks for a "ghilly" feel

EricOfDreams wrote:

-=Scar=- wrote:Ok this isn't that good quality for a guide 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings 2: You havent painted the eyes no highlights or even over coats.

Sorry but this isnt really an effective guide

Screw you! At least this guy tried. A lot better than your "angry guard". I use black washes for my Necrons all the time. You, sir, are a dick.

I drew them on paint -_- Ive not even been able to use my "watered down camera"
You guys really cant take a critizism Its advice >_> Not "ra ra ra you suck ra ra ra."
Also Black washs Are not clever to use for everything Just details like an aquila or something with lots of crack '_'

-=Scar=- wrote: 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings

You might want to take a look at a few of LBursley's tutorial videos for his space marines. I think you'll find he uses black washes very effectively for Space Marines amongst other purposes.

Natorum wrote:

-=Scar=- wrote: 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings

You might want to take a look at a few of LBursley's tutorial videos for his space marines. I think you'll find he uses black washes very effectively for Space Marines amongst other purposes.

Agreed

I've been watching this, and knew it would end up with someone breaking the rules in due time.

First off, EricofDreams, public warning, read the rules, direct attacks like your little outburst will quickly get you suspensions and eventually a ban around Dakka. If you don't like what someone else has posted, then remark in a more reserved and thought out manner.

To the rest of you: The constructive thoughts on a tutorial and how to make it better are good, the ones just stating that it isn't a good tutorial are not. If you have suggestions, then make them, do not slam someones attempts to help his fellow modeler/painter.

Thread will be purged of all comments if any of this continues.

++++++++++

Now on to the topic at hand, the tutorial!

It's a good tabletop standard but there are some issues that folks who decide to paint on the sprue will have to deal with. One big one being Big Gaudy Mold Lines. There is a tutorial somewhere in this section to deal with this though, but even then you're still going to be worrying about painting those clip off points once it's assembled!

Shading with a wash after the models are assembled alleviates one of the issues I also have with this method, but careful application is key. Also choosing a more appropriate wash color will help the shading look better. Using sepia/brown wash on a light bone colored cloth gives a nicer looking finish compared to black.

You also might think to use smaller images with larger available to those who want to see more of it. If you're using the Dakka Gallery, use the small or medium sizes in the drop down near the sharing options instead of full size images. It helps in the presentation some.

Keep painting, sharing and learning!

i appreciate you sticking up for me
but it was a little out of line

EricOfDreams wrote:

-=Scar=- wrote:Ok this isn't that good quality for a guide 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings 2: You havent painted the eyes no highlights or even over coats.

Sorry but this isnt really an effective guide

Screw you! At least this guy tried. A lot better than your "angry guard". I use black washes for my Necrons all the time. You, sir, are a dick.

QFT but be polite.

Angry Guards were such a lame concept and the title says this is about table top quality minis.

My only cirticism is using plastic glue on paint isn't going to bond very well.

poipo32 wrote:

EricOfDreams wrote:

-=Scar=- wrote:Ok this isn't that good quality for a guide 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings 2: You havent painted the eyes no highlights or even over coats.

Sorry but this isnt really an effective guide

Screw you! At least this guy tried. A lot better than your "angry guard". I use black washes for my Necrons all the time. You, sir, are a dick.

QFT but be polite.

Angry Guards were such a lame concept and the title says this is about table top quality minis.

My only cirticism is using plastic glue on paint isn't going to bond very well.

i did a little post-op work on the title
and i've realized that problem and countered it with super glue

i have realised superglue is probabely much better for plastic minitures than the plastic cement stuff, GW or not. superglue does to ruin the plastic where it accidenty touches and if an arm needs to come off for some reason instead of it being melted onto the plastic, it just is attached, and with some effort you can 'break' (the superglue bond) and take off the arm

i went through a few models before i realized that the plastic glue i've been using eats away at the primer

Natorum wrote:

-=Scar=- wrote: 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings

You might want to take a look at a few of LBursley's tutorial videos for his space marines. I think you'll find he uses black washes very effectively for Space Marines amongst other purposes.

However much I agree on this, LBursley can paint using elmers glue and somehow it would turn out awesome. Infact that should be a challenge to the man


OP - I think you did a pretty nice job on the tutorial. People seem to forget that tutorials are for people that are new, or havnt learned how to do certain things. So weather or not your a super awesome painter or not doest really matter. I think I personally am a rather decent painter, but I STILL read peoples tutorials, just because sometimes Ill learn something new

i saw some of LBureley's videos
he's amazing
but i don't really like using oil paints
a little too hard to clean

I wouldn't paint the cloaks red.

right now i only have one scout that was already painted (i bought him and other SM stuff from a tote at my local gaming store) but i am going with the same scheme, snow camo

It looks like your scouts have some blue balls.

-=Scar=- wrote:Ok this isn't that good quality for a guide 1: Black wash only works with tanks and buildings 2: You havent painted the eyes no highlights or even over coats.

Sorry but this isnt really an effective guide

Sorry mate but have to agree with this. Black was is only good on dulling worn metal, tanks and alike. if you want an all over wash. WONDER WASH 1/2 Badab Black - 1/2 Devlan Mud.

This quide is a quick way of painting your models for a mediocre table finish. I myself like to paint unit by unit so i can focus on what im doing and make each model at least 8/10.

None the less good guide for those people who prefer to play seeing how it's give them the 3 colors for a legal army.

Top tips: 1)Always assemble models before priming and painting. 2) ALWAYS use a foundation yellow (for bright finish) of brown (for dark finish) BEFORE applying gold

EricOfDreams wrote:

Screw you! At least this guy tried. A lot better than your "angry guard". I use black washes for my Necrons all the time. You, sir, are a dick.

of course black wash works for necrons.