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Hey, can anyone recommend a good plastic glue, that could be used with GW miniatures? Same question with the superglue.

Testors glue for Metal and Testors glue for Plastic.

Used a bunch over the years.

For plastic glue, the Revell Contacta Professional is fantastic. Balance between rapid bond and adjustment time is just right, dispenser is really neat and doesn't clog and it's good value.

For super glue, I find it's pretty much all the same as long as it's fresh. (shelf life for super glue is about 6 months, 3 for super glue gel - remember that the shop may have had in for quite a while before you bought it...)
Thinner super glue is stronger, thicker super glue is more shock resistant. I prefer a bottle with a brush to a nozzle, just personal preference.

I also reccomend testors.

Defo Revell Contacta Pro for plastic glue. Anything with a precision applicator is immediately better than GW's shameful nozzle.

Super glue - no preference. I've tried them all, and am quite happy with the 8 Tubes for £1 variety. Keep it in the fridge to vastly increase its shelf-life.

Our group uses LocTite now, it is the best super glue for models we have found.

Moving to modelling.

Tek wrote:Defo Revell Contacta Pro for plastic glue. Anything with a precision applicator is immediately better than GW's shameful nozzle.

QFT. I've been using Revell since i started wargaming and its never let me down.

Krazy glue. I won't use anything less.

Doomthumbs wrote:Krazy glue. I won't use anything less.

Of course you wouldn't. As an added bonus with the Revell glue when the bottle is empty you can convert it into some kind of gun. Possibly an AA gun of some sort.

testors for plastic (the toxic one is always loadsss of fun hahaha)
and for metal I use loctite gel, the stuff that comes in the spacey looking bottle. it's pretty good stuff.

Brother Azul wrote:

Tek wrote:Defo Revell Contacta Pro for plastic glue. Anything with a precision applicator is immediately better than GW's shameful nozzle.

QFT. I've been using Revell since i started wargaming and its never let me down.

I've been using Revell Contacta since about 5 months after I started putting model kits together (a good 10 years before I started gaming) - I went from 'gunge-in-a-tube' style gel cements to the liquid kind and didn't look back.

Superglues - I use what I have available. Currently it is a bottle of Zap medium (green). Although I've also used loctite and the cheapies. There's a 3 pack of cheap superglue that stays in my gaming bag (gaming emergencies).

Revell pro syringe for plastics. Zap CA superglue I'm ruin, medium and awesome thick for gap filling. Zip kicker is useful for accelerating superglue curing, and debonder for fingers. I also use a 2-part epoxy like araldite for sticking to weird surfaces like stone or concrete, and occasionally use green stuff as glue and filler (takes a long time to set) on metals, or if I want try different poses on a plastic figure.
Lastly, White PVA school glue is the nest thing for gluing sand and flock to bases...

We have lots of glue.

Humbrol Liquid Poly Cement is the best for plastic, I have found.

I use Revell Contacta Professional for my plastics - the precision applicator is very nice, even if it has some clogging issues - though nothing that a lighter won't clear up in a matter of seconds.

For superglue I've been using Pattex, a German brand, for a while but recently I've bought me some Filla-Glue. Especially the Clear type has been very good for putting together my larger metal models - in concerto with pinning of course.

Cheers,


IK-Painter

Revell contacta & humbrol liquid poly (although I suggest that you snip off the brush in the lid & use a regular paintbrush instead)

Testors... www.thewarstore.com best prices IMO

Loctite Ultra Gel is my latest glue of preference. Very shock resistant, stays where I put it, and holds on like its life depends on it.

Did you actually know that GW and Wickes super glue are actually one of the same. They use the same formula, and Wickes super glue uses the same bottle as GW plastic poly cement. I don't know if Wickes sells poly cement though.

To people outside the Wickes reign of flatpacking, Wickes is a DIY superstore.

Any superglue or two part resin is enough: LocTite or Araldite

Any old polyliquid or polystyrene cement for those plastic only joins.

Most superglues are pretty solid. I'm using Gorilla Superglue right now and thus far it seems to give the best all purpose bond for metal to plastic and plastic to plastic out of anything i've used, but i haven't seen how it holds up over time, and it also has the added unscientific advantage of being used on models that are almost all pinned.

i used krazy glue for very long time (mostly due to stubbornness) and unfortunately it often creates a very brittle bond and has disappointed me many times, but it works much better if your model is pinned.

Testors masterclass in the black bottle with metal dispensor for plastics. Bsi/ bob smith industries superglue for everything else.

Loctite Control Gel is what I use for both plastics and metal. It's a bit (I mean a LOT) tougher than the normal super glue and comes in a really handy dispenser.

Was using Zap Medium CA, didn't like it much, so graduated to the good stuff.

hemingway wrote:Most superglues are pretty solid. I'm using Gorilla Superglue right now and thus far it seems to give the best all purpose bond for metal to plastic and plastic to plastic out of anything i've used, but i haven't seen how it holds up over time, and it also has the added unscientific advantage of being used on models that are almost all pinned.

i used krazy glue for very long time (mostly due to stubbornness) and unfortunately it often creates a very brittle bond and has disappointed me many times, but it works much better if your model is pinned.

Another recommendation for Gorilla Superglue. Has the best consistency IMO. Not too runny and not too jelly
Also, the top cap has a built in pin so when you screw/unscrew, it punctures the actual top to prevent the tip from clogging. Ingenuous!

Tek wrote:Keep it in the fridge to vastly increase its shelf-life.

Refrigeration will approximately double the shelf life of super glue (to approx 12 months for liquid or 6 months for gel)

Best to keep it in some tupperware though to avoid getting the fumes on your food!

Im pretty fine with GW plastic glue. I don't use their super glue however, I either use krazy glue from a dollar store or I use privateer press glue

I use superglue from the pound shop - about 8-10 tubes for £1 - good hold and super cheap.

Not particularly accurate applicator but for the price... excellent.

I've used Plastiweld for years. Nice brush applicator and thin enough to wick with capillary action.

I use Gorilla Glue for those plastic items that don't require permanent attachment.

I avoid CA because of the 'crazing'

Based on my experience:

I tried Testor's plastic cement first, the non-toxic kind, and it gave a great bond at first. Then I started experiencing some issues, so I bought a new tube. It gave me the same issues, where it would take 5-15 minutes to dry and then the parts would just peel off. So I tried the toxic kind, and that did the exact same thing.

Next I tried the Mercury Adhesives super glue, you know, the expensive kind. It was total and serious crap. I was having minis constantly breaking in transport, and almost every game resulted in a bare minimum of 3-5 broken models.

I tried generic off-brand super glue next, Helping Hand or something like that, and it was pretty similar.

Then I tried Gorilla Glue(the super glue, don't want to use the normal stuff on models), and haven't changed ever since. Unfortunately, there's no brush and it comes out rather fast, but it gives a very very strong seal. My models very rarely break in transport now, and most of the time only ones that were glued with the other super glues. You might want to use some kind of accelerator with it, as it does dry kind of slowly, but it's worth it.

One thing I have found is that... Absolutely none of these work on metal. Maybe that's just the models I'm working with, but all of them seem to give a crappy seal on metal, or not even hold the parts together at all(metal Stegadons anyone?). I'll try pinning them and see if it holds up any better before I call the jury on that one though.

I'm going to throw the GF9 hobby glue in there too, I use it on plastic and metal and have never needed to pin a model when using it.