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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





Hello All,

I have just started to get into table top war gaming, my friends have for quite some time and they got me into it. However I really have no artistic talent and had to do a lot of research to find a color scheme that I liked for them, but I'd like to post my first ever paint job and see if there are any tips I can get for my next one for my first tactical squad. I cannot for the life of me seem to get the decals to go on, so I gave up and will attempt it later.

   
Made in gb
Raging-on-the-Inside Blood Angel Sergeant





That is excellent for a first model, everything is neat and within the lines. If you're after tips, I'd thin down your paints a little more and look at getting a full and smooth coverage of blue (several thin coats should work).

Looking forward to seeing some more pictures.

d-usa wrote:Orks are the GW version of R2D2. No matter how advanced the defenses may be, there is always an open serial port somewhere that can be pluged into and a firewall that was never configured.
 
   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






State of Jefferson

That's just dandy. You might be able to add some blue ink/wash and make the shadowing slightly more crisp.
   
Made in us
Irked Blood Angel Scout with Combat Knife




Portland, Oregon

That's great for a first model, try multiple thin coats of blue on the next one.

DR:90S+G+MB+IPw40k11+D+A++/fWD389R+T(T)DM
"I shall reap a terrible bounty from the death that I sow in your name. Father Nurgle..." Typhus, Herald of Nurgle

Armies:
Blood Angels 3000pts.
Death Guard 2000pts.
Rebel Grots: WIP. 
   
Made in se
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot





Skovde, Sweden

Very nice, not just for a first model... I have seen quite a few models on the tabletops that are not as nice as this.

You have kept it simple and clean, I like!

// Andreas

Dark Angels 4th Company (3,830pts) 950pts fully painted

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





Hey guys, thanks a lot for the feedback! It really ups my morale. I'll post the entire unit when it's finished.

Anyone have any advice on putting decals on?
   
Made in se
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot





Skovde, Sweden

Decals is a bit of an art... but these are pretty much the basics.



// Andreas

Dark Angels 4th Company (3,830pts) 950pts fully painted

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





Put some the next model I did just because it was more open, I need to find a way to make that glossy look go away on the decal.



   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





matt varnish on top of decal takes away shiny.
FYI guys he dry brushed a lighter blue on the model it was not the paints thinkness :p.

If you want to try and highlight you can do the butchery known as rim jobs on the outskirt of the areas or you can try wet blending. I would recomend the second since the first should never be done... NEVER!!!
Makes them look like a cartoon comic book character when 1 part is reall bright.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2015/01/25 06:24:32


I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





Hmm, I'm assuming I can find a matte varnish at any hardware store? The only problem that I have with they way the look is that shine.

I also have another question, I picked up a Blue Ink Glaze yesterday and was going to wash the entire model with it, Gullimann Blue I think it was. I don't know if it will ruin how they look right now or accentuate any other shadows or cracks that needs to show up. If the entire model had a "slight" shine to it I don't think I would mind, which is why I'm arguing with myself that I should do it.
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





wraithlord1984 wrote:
Hmm, I'm assuming I can find a matte varnish at any hardware store? The only problem that I have with they way the look is that shine.

I also have another question, I picked up a Blue Ink Glaze yesterday and was going to wash the entire model with it, Gullimann Blue I think it was. I don't know if it will ruin how they look right now or accentuate any other shadows or cracks that needs to show up. If the entire model had a "slight" shine to it I don't think I would mind, which is why I'm arguing with myself that I should do it.
Matt varnish should be no shine thats just gloss varnish that does. But as for the inkage, thats hard to say it is a personal choice at the finished stage. Adding to much will run into other places but help blend the blue better. So since this is your first i say give it a try if you see to much in one spot dry brush off quick and the bristle will suck up most of it anyways. P.s. Inks and Glazes arnt the same glazes help with blending brighter areas with darker one with colours that can be tricky to do that with like reds and blues where inks will help give a better shadow and depth to the model

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/01/25 18:58:25


I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. 
   
Made in us
Hardened Veteran Guardsman





Virginia

This tutorial is for Space Wolves, but it still has some good tips on how to paint a Space Marine. Just swap out the colors in the video for Ultramarine colors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKdzNh1JGE4
   
Made in es
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





I wish my first paintjob would have looked half as good as that.

For beginners, I'd usually recommend keeping things easy, simple and effective. Specially if you're starting with mere troops, as it is the case. Don't worry about trying some experiments from time to time, experience is always good. Never be shy of trying new things, you never know if you'll like the result until you've tried it.

For now, good job ;-)

Progress is like a herd of pigs: everybody is interested in the produced benefits, but nobody wants to deal with all the resulting gak.

GW customers deserve every bit of outrageous princing they get. 
   
Made in us
Mutated Chosen Chaos Marine





NorCal

Thats your first model? Jeez....wish I'd had that clean of a start.

I'd recommend trying out some washes cut 50/50 with water for shading, then reapplying your highlights with a drybrush. Seriously though, great start man. Far better than my own first model.

The Undying Spawn of Shub-Niggurath
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/660749.page


Twitter: BigFatJerkface
https://twitter.com/AdamInOakland

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





Thanks for all of the positive feedback everyone, it's making me more confident with the entire squad. I'm going to use some painters tape to put he 2nd company stripe on their knee (I've been reading the fluff for a long time). I just need to get these decals right, that shine from them makes it look fake.

I wonder if I'd be able to cut out a stencil from them and paint over it on the pad to make it look painted on. I need to add a second decal to the Ultramarine Symbol for the Squad Leader and Sergeant otherwise and I don't know how well they'll overlap.

Thoughts?
   
Made in gb
Keeper of the Holy Orb of Antioch





avoiding the lorax on Crion

Certainly looks alot better than my first marine i must say. your onto a a good start.

who in fact is sat on my desk reminding me of how far ive come. in all his messy, metalic, thickly painted glory.

Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.

"May the odds be ever in your favour"

Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.

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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





So I've painted a few more up and added some extra details, along with the decals. I need to find a way to "melt" the decals so that they uniform and then try a matt varnish to take away that shine.

Any thoughts?



This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/01/28 17:29:56


 
   
Made in de
Mysterious Techpriest






There are several products for decals that help.
Microsol and Microset are the most popular ones.
They basically "soften" the decal so it conforms to surfaces better.

A little tip also is to cut lil' lines into the decals - the clear areas. This will make it easier for it to shift and match the bend of the shoulder guard. Applying the decal on a gloss varnish for the smooth surface also helps - you will get rid of the shine via the matt varnish or satin varnish anyway.

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Made in fr
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle






I'm impressed for a first painted figurine.
You can go play with them without shame.

Like other people said, washes and highlight to make them a little more fancy.

Do not forget to paint the base
   
Made in gb
Stealthy Grot Snipa





First model?!

I was a little blown away. Attention to detail, ability to pick a reasonable scheme (I like the red guns.. i likey alot...)So some people have already given great advice on decals, as I personally dont use em on me orks. But a few pointers/ areas I think you should look into next;

basing! grab a little sand, some gravel, put some pva glue on the base and sprinkle. wait till it dries and add a 50:50 water PVA mix; this simply acts to give it an extra seal and help it stay. even a couple coats might help. Paint said bases, to taste, dessert? stoney? It will really bring your models to another level without it being you needing to 'improve' as its simply something you havent done yet

terms of painting, thinner layers, with more layers to achieve solid colour and get your ass some washes! Even a black wash will simply sit in the crevices and help give the armour a varied look around the edges. Simple, yet very effective!

I look forward to seeing your next models! I'd play against these on the table any day of the week.

Favourite Game: When your Warboss on bike wrecks 3 vehicles simply by HoW - especially when his bike is a custom monowheel.

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





Thanks all,

I'll take a look at the microset/sol as I saw it will give the decals a painted on look, which is what I'm looking for.

Also, I do have some Gulliman Blue, which is a Glaze by GW's standards, but I don't know if that's going to "ruin" the nice coloring they have already with the Calgar Blue that I use for the armor. If it were to make them darker, I don't know if I'd like that.

I know ultramarines are typically a darker blue, but I really like how they turned out.
   
Made in gb
Stealthy Grot Snipa





wraithlord1984 wrote:
Thanks all,

I'll take a look at the microset/sol as I saw it will give the decals a painted on look, which is what I'm looking for.

Also, I do have some Gulliman Blue, which is a Glaze by GW's standards, but I don't know if that's going to "ruin" the nice coloring they have already with the Calgar Blue that I use for the armor. If it were to make them darker, I don't know if I'd like that.

I know ultramarines are typically a darker blue, but I really like how they turned out.


A glaze will sit on the raised areas more, unlike a wash which is the opposite Can be good for evening out colour on a models surfaces, but will affect the colour underneath. Perhaps find a spare shoulder or something, do a little test. Good way to get an idea of how it functions. Then you can decide whether you like the new colour or if perhaps next time go a little lighter to start with then glaze to bring to what you want but definitely give it a try, i highly recommend experimenting where possible, mistakes can give you a lot of experience

Favourite Game: When your Warboss on bike wrecks 3 vehicles simply by HoW - especially when his bike is a custom monowheel.

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





All right, I'll have to give it a shot to see how it looks on a spare bit here and there. Darkening the colour a bit may make them look a little better, and cover up some of the places the dry bush looks spotty on.
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





Based and finished now. Just have to work on the Sergeant and they will be ready to play. Thank you to everyone who gave me pointers, I still need to find a matte varnish for their shoulder pads.





   
Made in us
Tough-as-Nails Ork Boy





The trick to decals is-

-Paint a layer of gloss varnish under where the decal will go
-Apply the decal, and use Microsol to soften it up and take out the wrinkles. Q-tips are a huge help here.
-Paint a layer of matte varnish (or spray clearcoat) over the top.

Microsol is the solvent that softens the decals, Microset aids the glue on the decal if adhesion is poor. I generally only need microsol.
   
Made in nl
Ultramarine Scout with Sniper Rifle






awesome models. Almost jealous!
   
Made in si
Fresh-Faced New User





Sorry if this has been mentioned before, but to take away the shininess of decals, an alternativ that I love to buying specific products, is just paint over the colors of the decals, in the same color. Meaning, I go white over the Ultramarines "U" and blue over the transparent parts. Works very well for me.

- In the grim dark future there is only war. And Gatorade, with electrolytes. 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





The whole squad is finally finished!



   
Made in gb
Stealthy Grot Snipa





Goodjob on the basing
Nice and neat and it gives a good definition to the ultramarines blue.

How did you find the overall process? Whats your next adventure into 40k?

Favourite Game: When your Warboss on bike wrecks 3 vehicles simply by HoW - especially when his bike is a custom monowheel.

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





I feel as if the sergeant's helmet doesn't look right.

But, I found the process extremely fun (and time consuming) and next time I may actually paint them on the sprue rather then already on the base like I did this time. I purchased a Strike Force off Amazon for $150, so I still have another Tactical Squad, Assault Squad, Dreadnaught, Drop Pod, Command Squad, and Rhino to paint so I'm going to be quite busy with that.

They are the army I would like to play, I would consider maybe doing an Imperial Army, and add Space Wolves into the mix, because I love their fluff and they look badass as well.
   
 
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