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In terms of simple raw covering power, you'll get better results out of Vallejo Game Colour, and out of Reaper I cannot say. I would not recommend Vallejo Model Colour for the purpose of covering large areas with white. I also probably would not use Rackham simply for the sake of covering large areas en-masse with white either, more for careful detailing. Rackham can definitely cover, but the nature of it's binder just isn't as suited to covering large areas with speed. The Vallejo Game Colour product dries extremely rapidly so it's very good for quickly coating large areas. I think I would recommend Vallejo Game Colour the most since even though you will need to do more than a single coat, you can do coats extremely rapidly. You could also look at other manufacturers like Golden or Liquitex acrylics or Winsor & Newton's galeria series (cheaper series) of acrylic paints.

In my opinion however I think if you want to do a whole lot of white you should go get yourself a filbert-tip brush. Filbert brushes can be seen here: http://www.dickblick.com/brushshapes/filbert/
The large flat sides of the brush are perfect for covering large areas quickly, far better than using round brushes, and the rounded end is better than a perfect flat tip on miniatures since flat tips will tend to spread out over time if you're not supremely careful with them. That will make things go a whole lot faster no matter what brand you choose.

Of course I'm assuming that you *want* to cover a whole lot of area in a hurry to create a white basecoat after priming black. If that's not the case and you are just looking for spot-treatments of white, then what I said might not apply to you.

I'll try the game colour white, i think it will be very interesting to compare it to Citadels Skull white in terms of coverage power.

It's not heaps better *per layer*, but it dries super quickly, so you can do those multiple layers pronto.

If you just wanted to cover heavily in a minumum number of coats, I'd actually try something like Winsor & Newton's Galeria line of paint instead, but because of the heavy body you have to be careful not to leave it unattended in a mini's recesses. It is one *bold* white. If you go with something like this though get Titanium whites, not Zinc whites (zinc whites are transparent whites for mixing)

Thanks Caern I'll try that. Is Citadel white Oxide based?

I don't know. I've searched high and low in the past in order to find a paper from Games-Workshop detailing the ingredients of their paints. All one can do is to guess. Citadel white doesn't behave totally like a good titanium dioxide or zinc (and there are no other inexpensive ingredients you can make a white from except lead, and it's not lead). It's weaker and slower drying than titanium dioxide should be, but still covers far better than zinc ever will. My guess would be it's just a rather weak (not enough pigment) titanium white.

Since you live in England you might want to go check out the Winsor Newton tour sometime. There's a small 'donation' of five pounds but I hear they sometimes hand out small samples. http://www.winsornewton.com/news_8EN.php

Rather than going out and getting a tube of Titanium White paint, get Titanium White gesso. It includes glue in it's binder, is designed to be a primer coat and will shrink a bit when once cured (ie: it shouldn't obscure any details). There was a recent topic on using gesso as a primer here recently, which might help.

I do that in the summer when I can't use my spray paints (humidity). If you go with that option, do yourself a huge favour and buy a couple cheap as dirt brushes *just* for doing this. It dries in no time and has a huge amount of tooth in order to grab paints going on above it, so it will rapidly degrade any light-duty brushes you use it with.