Switch Theme:

Trying to Remove GLue and paint.....  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Rampaging Carnifex





Mandeville, Louisiana

     As the title says, I have a little problem removing some Testors acrylic paint and Zap-a-Gap from a Chaos Lord model of mine.  I want to repaint the thing, but after a week of immersion in Testors enamel thinner(50/50 with H2O) I can only get the junk off by scraping it.  To further the problem, his sword bit(Archaon's sword arm) had accidentaly had some zap-a-gap globbed on it and ruined the detail and paint job all at once.  This has been an even greater headache to remove.  I though of using my dremel with some sort of brush bit, but I am afraid that may damage the model further.  Any advice?


Dakka. You need more of it. No exceptions.
You ask me for an evil hamburger. I hand you a raccoon.-Captain Gordino
What are you talking about? They're Space Marines, which are heroic. They need to be able to do all the heroic stuff. They fight aliens and don't afraid of anything. -Orkeosarus

 
   
Made in us
Agile Revenant Titan




Florida

Zap A Gap makes a superglue debonder. I've used it a lot to disassemble models, but I'm not 100% certain you can use it to scrape glue off. However, probably worth a try.

Easy Off Oven Cleaner works on plastics and metal for paint removal. For metal models (read: not plastic), you can submerse them in Pine Sol. Both take some time to soak in really well, but I am able to use some old toothbrush to remove the paint and maybe a dental pick to get those really hard to reach areas.

Hope this helps.

No earth shattering, thought provoking quote. I'm just someone who was introduced to 40K in the late 80's and it's become a lifelong hobby. 
   
Made in gb
Dangerous Skeleton Captain






With the superglue, you could try rapidly heating and cooling the metal bit until the glue flakes off. Immerse in boiling water, immerse in ice water, repeat until glue is gone?

Cheers

Z4Miniatures - The Terran Diplomatic Corps

http://z4miniatures.blogspot.com 
   
Made in us
Tough Tyrant Guard





Sacramento, ca

Super glue or zap gap get some finger nail polish remover and place the model in it of a few hours( it turns the glue too a yellowish pigmet and gummy) then just take a hobby knife and pick the chunks off thats for Metal models.

Plastic models you can do the same thing too bu,t you have too brush on the nail polish remover and watch it closely... it might bubble up the GW plastic if it the older stuff the newer plastic is a little more resilent too the nail polish remover.
and for testors paints metal models
place them in brake cleaner for a bout a hour and then the paint should just come off in globs
plastic place in simple green over night and same effect...
   
Made in ca
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin





Livermore, Ca

You can place plastic and metal models safely in brake fluid. I've been doing it for years, especially when I find that simple green sometimes doesn't do the job. Brake fluid also has a nice effect of making super glue very brittle after a few days. I've never faced off against testors, but the brake fluid is king. (course pine sol is emporer on metal, and exectioner to plastics)
   
Made in us
Plastictrees



Amongst the Stars, In the Night

I swear by SimpleGreen these days. It's safe for both plastic and metal, with me having left the several metal figs in a jar filled with the stuff for over two years and no problems at all. You don't need to wait that long, 24 hours (or less even) is all it takes for it to penetrate and loosen up the paint and super glue. You will still need to gently remove the clumps of super glue with a hobby knife and/or dental pic, but it gets the job done and isn't some highly toxic chemical to boot.

OT Zone: A More Wretched Hive of Scum and Villany
The Loyal Slave learns to Love the Lash! 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: