Switch Theme:

Article Discussion: Dipping Tyranids  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us



This is an automated message added by the articles system.

A new article titled Dipping Tyranids has been added to the dakka articles system.

This message thread is for the discussion of content in the article.

If you have anything to add to the article, then just jump in and edit it by going to the actual article page and clicking 'edit' (the link can be found just above the article). If there is no edit link then the article is locked for now, so just add your comments or content to this thread and if they are appropriate then they should eventually get merged in.

If there is something in the article that you wish to debate or comment on, then this is the place to do it. Just hit the reply button and get chatting! You need to be registered and logged in to post in the forums so if you are an anonymous article editor then now would be a great time to register and join in dakka's great forum discussion!
   
Made in us
Banelord Titan Princeps of Khorne






How did you attach the models to the milk frother thingy?

Veriamp wrote:I have emerged from my lurking to say one thing. When Mat taught the Necrons to feel, he taught me to love.

Whitedragon Paints! http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/613745.page 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






A small town at the foothills of the beautiful Cascade Mountains

I used one binder clip to clip the base to the frother. See examples of the binder clips on the second to last picture, on the left. Those were the binder clips I used.... Mez

***Visit Mezmaron's Lair, my blog....***
40K: Classic 'Cron Raiders Hive Fleet Kraken Alaitoc Craftworld |
FOW:
Polish 1st Armoured Polish 1st Airbourne German Kampfgruppe Knaust |
RK
: Cerci Speed Circuit, Black Diamond Corps | 
   
Made in us
Banelord Titan Princeps of Khorne






Do those hold the mini's on pretty well? Do you have a problem getting them off of there when you are done? If it's not too much trouble, can you add an actual picture of the mini with the binder clip on it? I can't seem to wrap my head around how they can attach and still hold tight.

Awesome bugs by the way. Dipping is king!

Veriamp wrote:I have emerged from my lurking to say one thing. When Mat taught the Necrons to feel, he taught me to love.

Whitedragon Paints! http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/613745.page 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






A small town at the foothills of the beautiful Cascade Mountains

whitedragon wrote:Do those hold the mini's on pretty well? Do you have a problem getting them off of there when you are done? If it's not too much trouble, can you add an actual picture of the mini with the binder clip on it? I can't seem to wrap my head around how they can attach and still hold tight.

Awesome bugs by the way. Dipping is king!


Just added some more pictures! Mez

***Visit Mezmaron's Lair, my blog....***
40K: Classic 'Cron Raiders Hive Fleet Kraken Alaitoc Craftworld |
FOW:
Polish 1st Armoured Polish 1st Airbourne German Kampfgruppe Knaust |
RK
: Cerci Speed Circuit, Black Diamond Corps | 
   
Made in us
Banelord Titan Princeps of Khorne






AWESOME!

That looks ten times easier than glueing them to sticks, Milk frothers for the win!

Veriamp wrote:I have emerged from my lurking to say one thing. When Mat taught the Necrons to feel, he taught me to love.

Whitedragon Paints! http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/613745.page 
   
Made in nz
Mutilatin' Mad Dok




New Zealand

I saw the nids. They look fantastic! I only have one (1) question.

1. Does this work on Orksies?

2. What colour do I use on red armoured orsies?

3. Where can I get that dipping mixture you used?

4. Will it kill models if done wrong?

5. Do you base afterwards? Can it be done beforehand?

6. Does it make them lucky?
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Dankhold Troggoth






Shadeglass Maze

Wow! I'd like to echo that question- where did you get the dipping mixture?

I just purchased and am trying to assemble 96 gaunts at once- and this looks like the PERFECT way to paint them! Otherwise, I was looking at prime/basecoat/wash/drybrush for the skin, and multiple highlights for the carapace. Tried it out on a test model... and it doesn't look as good as your simple method here!

Did you add any highlights to the carapace? It's just red? What about the teeth, did you paint them separately?

AND I actually have a milk frother
   
Made in us
Tunneling Trygon





The House that Peterbilt

I dunno if Mez posts here much anymore so I'll answer you q since I am familiar with the technique
Wow! I'd like to echo that question- where did you get the dipping mixture?

MinWax polyshades walnut. It is a wood stain you can pick up at any hardware store or in most hardware departments at the bix box stores (I bought mine at walmart, as an example).

Did you add any highlights to the carapace? It's just red? What about the teeth, did you paint them separately?

Pretty sure he did not highlight. Most don't, as it defeats the purpose of the quickness factor. Don't really need the highlights as the dip creates a really nice two tone transition. You can do a lighter then basecoat dry brush though to help create a 3 tone transition.

Also, I personally paint on the dip, as I like having control, making 0 mess and easily 'dipping' larger models (which is a scary prospect using the flick, drill or frother methods). Is certainly a bit more time consuming but for me it is more about the result then getting an army done in a weekend.

HTH

snoogums: "Just because something is not relavant doesn't mean it goes away completely."

Iorek: "Snoogums, you're right. Your arguments are irrelevant, and they sure as heck aren't going away." 
   
Made in nz
Mutilatin' Mad Dok




New Zealand

Can I get Miniwax polyshade walnut in a shade other than the one he got? e.g. Could I get it in black?
   
Made in us
Tunneling Trygon





The House that Peterbilt

http://www.minwax.com/products/one_step_stain_and_finishes/polyshades.cfm?tn=4&td=#Colors
Yes they do offer black, it might be a hard one to find. I have not used it and have read that it is much more stark a stain. You would probably want to dilute black with paint thinner.

Also, I believe Aussies have to look for a different brand, but there is one that people use (sorry, no idea what or where to point ya)

snoogums: "Just because something is not relavant doesn't mean it goes away completely."

Iorek: "Snoogums, you're right. Your arguments are irrelevant, and they sure as heck aren't going away." 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Dankhold Troggoth






Shadeglass Maze

I did a quick search, and didn't see any other guides on dipping... any idea how long to "spin" it for?
   
Made in ca
Tinkering Tech-Priest





Canada

awesome thanks.

I wonder how well this will work on my Deathwing and the massive amount of undead i have been working on
   
Made in us
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot





585NY

dipping is amazing for doing undead...
just slap on the bleached bone, put white on the teeth and base color any weapons, dip and done...

i hope to dip my necrons if i ever get that army started, and this was just the kind of guide i was looking for

 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






A small town at the foothills of the beautiful Cascade Mountains

RiTides Nids wrote: Did you add any highlights to the carapace? It's just red? What about the teeth, did you paint them separately?


No highlighting at all. Just pure red. The mouths were pure black, then teeth painted pure white. Both before dipping.

***Visit Mezmaron's Lair, my blog....***
40K: Classic 'Cron Raiders Hive Fleet Kraken Alaitoc Craftworld |
FOW:
Polish 1st Armoured Polish 1st Airbourne German Kampfgruppe Knaust |
RK
: Cerci Speed Circuit, Black Diamond Corps | 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






A small town at the foothills of the beautiful Cascade Mountains

RiTides Nids wrote:I did a quick search, and didn't see any other guides on dipping... any idea how long to "spin" it for?


Seriously, about 1-2 seconds. If you spin too much, you just redip. If not enough, just spin again!

***Visit Mezmaron's Lair, my blog....***
40K: Classic 'Cron Raiders Hive Fleet Kraken Alaitoc Craftworld |
FOW:
Polish 1st Armoured Polish 1st Airbourne German Kampfgruppe Knaust |
RK
: Cerci Speed Circuit, Black Diamond Corps | 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






A small town at the foothills of the beautiful Cascade Mountains


Also, I personally paint on the dip, as I like having control, making 0 mess and easily 'dipping' larger models (which is a scary prospect using the flick, drill or frother methods). Is certainly a bit more time consuming but for me it is more about the result then getting an army done in a weekend.


I just dipped two Carnifexes - will try and post pictures this weekend. I dipped, then instead of spinning, used a can of compressed air to blow off excess.... But I can see that just painting on would work too. I'm sure there are alot of methods that would work - dipping is surprisingly forgiving.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/11/07 05:04:22


***Visit Mezmaron's Lair, my blog....***
40K: Classic 'Cron Raiders Hive Fleet Kraken Alaitoc Craftworld |
FOW:
Polish 1st Armoured Polish 1st Airbourne German Kampfgruppe Knaust |
RK
: Cerci Speed Circuit, Black Diamond Corps | 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






A small town at the foothills of the beautiful Cascade Mountains

Pika_power wrote:I saw the nids. They look fantastic! I only have one (1) question.

1. Does this work on Orksies?
2. What colour do I use on red armoured orsies?
3. Where can I get that dipping mixture you used?
4. Will it kill models if done wrong?
5. Do you base afterwards? Can it be done beforehand?
6. Does it make them lucky?


Thanks!

1) It should work fine.
2) Not sure - would probably just recommend the same I used.
3) Ace Hardware in North Bend, WA. Otherwise, I think your FLHS should have it.
4) Yes, but its hard to do wrong. Just mix it up really good before dipping.
5) Depends on the base. If a brown base, might work. I am going to base afterwards.
6) They are 1-1 right now, (but 1-0 as a complete, finished army...).

Good luck! I'll try and post more pictures of the complete army this weekend in the article.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/11/07 05:08:43


***Visit Mezmaron's Lair, my blog....***
40K: Classic 'Cron Raiders Hive Fleet Kraken Alaitoc Craftworld |
FOW:
Polish 1st Armoured Polish 1st Airbourne German Kampfgruppe Knaust |
RK
: Cerci Speed Circuit, Black Diamond Corps | 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Dankhold Troggoth






Shadeglass Maze

Wow, this is great thanks for all the answers!!

Let's see those pics
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Dankhold Troggoth






Shadeglass Maze

Thanks for the new pics in the article... I'll post some results here when I've tried this process. I should be trying some test models this weekend!
   
Made in ca
Tinkering Tech-Priest





Canada

I found some water based easy clean up stain/polyurethane under another brand i am going to give that a go tonight and see how it goes, found it at walmart when i went in to get my WOW fix

i will be doing both undead skeletons and my deathwing tonight i will let you know how it turns out and if post some pics once there dried

this stuff turned out quite thicker then i expected. they should be dry tonight but i think i just killed a couple of old plastic terminators.

this stuff claims to be water based i am going to thin it down with some water and try again

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2008/11/18 16:24:48


 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Dankhold Troggoth






Shadeglass Maze

That was exactly my question (as I'm nearing the dipping stage on my gaunts), your 'nids look a lot better than other models I've seen dipped. Don't you need to thin this stuff down somewhat???

Also, doesn't that binder clip make your milk frother spin out-of-circle? I've obtained one (translated: my wife was generous with one she had ) but in testing out the spinning it seems like it's going to throw it off. I was thinking of using a magnet instead, since I will probably be putting magnets in the bases, anyway...

Thanks for any tips on the "thinning and spinning"

RiTides Nids

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/01/29 23:36:45


 
   
Made in us
Oozing Spawning Vat





Hey i have kind of a strange color scheme for my Nids and was wondering what color dip should i use for a mostly choas black and mithril silver army?

- Thanks for the Help. 
   
Made in au
Adolescent Youth with Potential




Australia

Hi, i just read the post and i was wondering how the process goes,
Do you spin the models in the dip as well as afterwards or just afterwards.
Also do you know what colour dip i should use for my army they are mostly black with bone white caraprace and bony bits.
Thanks for any help.
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






A small town at the foothills of the beautiful Cascade Mountains

Sugamonster wrote:Hi, i just read the post and i was wondering how the process goes,
Do you spin the models in the dip as well as afterwards or just afterwards.
Also do you know what colour dip i should use for my army they are mostly black with bone white caraprace and bony bits.
Thanks for any help.


You just spin the models after dipping them. Not while in the dip.

Not sure on the color thing. Brown dip like I used may work, but Army Painter dark dip may work better. I would test both out.

Mez

***Visit Mezmaron's Lair, my blog....***
40K: Classic 'Cron Raiders Hive Fleet Kraken Alaitoc Craftworld |
FOW:
Polish 1st Armoured Polish 1st Airbourne German Kampfgruppe Knaust |
RK
: Cerci Speed Circuit, Black Diamond Corps | 
   
Made in au
Adolescent Youth with Potential




Mount Deathfire, Nocturne

Man, thank you SO much for this tutorial.
I too had really wanted to do a swarm army, but painting 100-200+ minis really turned me off. But now I really have to give it a shot!

Current Army: A roughly 1000 point Salamanders army %30 painted
Games played: 3 Win/Lose ratio: 3.0
DA:90S++GM-B++I++Pw40k08+D+A+/cWD332R++T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in us
Banelord Titan Princeps of Khorne






Sugamonster wrote:Hi, i just read the post and i was wondering how the process goes,
Do you spin the models in the dip as well as afterwards or just afterwards.
Also do you know what colour dip i should use for my army they are mostly black with bone white caraprace and bony bits.
Thanks for any help.


Pure white and black don't look good dipped. Black ends up looking gloppy and muddy, and white stains either brown or black depending on the color dip used.

Veriamp wrote:I have emerged from my lurking to say one thing. When Mat taught the Necrons to feel, he taught me to love.

Whitedragon Paints! http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/613745.page 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut







It's slightly tangental, but if you use MinWax Mahogany (I forget the specific color name, the can's out in the garage...) you can get a either a very dark red or a slightly reddish black, as an alternative to the browns and blacks.

White or a light color dipped in red can do some interesting things, but it's a bit risky and really depends on how thick the dip ends up being.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/09/16 03:52:37


 
   
Made in us
Scuttling Genestealer







I dipped some Nids a while back, and now I've decided to switch up my color scheme. Bleached Bone and Hawk Turquoise wasn't such a bright idea.

So how do I remove it? I've only dipped a few models, luckily.

DA:90S++G-MB++I+Pw40k08-D++A+/hWD-R+T(M)DM+

 
   
Made in gb
Been Around the Block





middlsbrough's local games workshop store :)

Nice guide, I may try it for my orks. Slightly OT but where did you get that foam? And is it the GW army case they fit in?



soon to be 500 points of Orks

W L D
0/0/0 
   
 
Forum Index » Article Discussion
Go to: