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I have a couple questions for some of you senior modelers out there that do green stuff work. I working on converting some space marine models nothing to major. But I want to know how you all work with it so well. The problem I'm currently having is that after rolling around the green stuff in my hands till its nice color green I find it sticking to EVERYTHING except the model. Not to mention when trying to smooth it out it just wants to stick to my sculpting tool. I tried using water on the tool and that seemed to lesson the stick factor to the tool but I'm just not sure if that's the way to be able to work with the putty without being tacky to every surface except the one I want.

I'm just curious if there are any tips or trade secrets that anyone would be willing to share with me about how to putty better and to ultimately achieve the look and goal that I'm looking for.

Thanks in advance.

i find if you leave the putty to air a bit after mixing it, it get less sticky.

also the age of the putty will effect its state as well ive found old putty does this more then fresh stuff

but water is definitly the way to go polycement is good for smothing the surface after it is dried

hope was helpful

Scragglefoot

I use cooking oil on my tools, though water works as well.

Thanks for the ideas, I haven't thought about cooking oil before. And I'll have to check the timeline for mu putty. I've tried to keep it out of air contact as much as possible to keep it viable for as long as possible.

when mine's too sticky I add a bit of extra blue to it. I tend to find the stickyness comes from the yellow portion

I've heard of using petroleum jelly, but I just use water. Try lettin the GS cure a bit, maybe 10-15 minutes - just let it rest before working with it. I leave mine in a bowl of cool water while it cures, this stiffens it up a bit. The opposite effect can be gained from putting it in warmer water too. Make sure you clean your tools when you're done with them. The various detrius that sticks to your tools will stick to the GS too.

hmm...I haven't thought about actually soaking it in water before. But I'll have to try that, that seems to be a re-occuring theme though. Letting it sit seems to help stiffen the GS and let it become less tacky and easier to work with. I always wipe down my tool once I'm finished I've just been having such problems with it being really sticky.

On a side note of a similiar topic, what other tools should I look into using for doing finite detial to the model in the GS? Do razor blades work well? Or is there something a little less sharp than can accomplish the same amount of detail when trying to work with the GS?

Thanks again for the ideas and replies, much appreciated.

I took one of those big paper clips, hammered the end until it was flat and used a file to round off the resulting square end. I ended up with a little tiny shaping tool which I mounted in a pin vice. It works great for detail. I also use something that's basically a thick needle mounted in a pin vice.

For general shaping I use a "polymer clay sculpting tool" set that I got at the art store.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz303/03/

The green stuff will NOT stick to the tips of these things. I dare you to try to make it stick. They're a little pricey but SO worth it.

When I need to use a different tool I use a little petroleum jelly to reduce the sticky factor.

I made my own as well using copsticks carved and sanded down into various shapes. I added a blob of unused GS to the end of one to make a smoother for fingerprints and the like. I also use darning needles, pins, paperclips, and generally anything I think will work.

For Father's Day I got a big kit of Xacto knives and have been using the heck outta them. Very nice for GS work, but the blades get dirty quick. Make sure they're sharp too.

The basic advice that anyone using GS will give you: use what works for you. Check out the modeling articles here at Dakka, there's some good basic advice for everyone there.

Hey Fexxor,

Try altering the ratio of yellow/blue until you get a consistency you like to work with. It doesn't have to be 50/50!

Also, try rubbing your sculpting tool (as long as it is not sharp!) along the side of your nose or in your hair next to the scalp. Sounds wierd, I know, but it's a nice quick way to lubricate the tool without getting it too greasy, and you always have skin/hair oil on your person!

It's something I learned from my printmaking teacher, for lubricating tools used to carve into metal plates for printmaking, and it works great for sculpting.

Brian P wrote:For general shaping I use a "polymer clay sculpting tool" set that I got at the art store.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz303/03/

Yup, clay shapers are the dog's bits.

I picked one up a while back to try out, and was just blown away by how much control it gives.

I still use a metal tool for the rough work, but this thing does the bulk of the smoothing and a lot of my detail work.


On the metal tool, I just use water to lubricate.

If you're having problems getting the GS to stick to the miniature, two other possible problems are mould release on the miniature (wash it in soapy water to get rid of that problem) or greasy fingers when you mix the putty.

For putty that's just too sticky, as suggested, leaving it a little while before working it, and varying the mix of yellow/blue can both help.

(Disclaimer: I'm not a figure sculptor, I just convert hair and fill gaps with GS.) I wear nitrile gloves to keep GS from sticking to my fingers and keep a cup of water in which to dip the tools (and my fingers) each time they're going to touch putty.

When sculpting hair or gap filling, I jam a blob of putty on the mini at the approximate area and wait about 1 minute. This seems to let the putty adhere better. Then I dip the tool in water and sculpt the GS. As stickiness increases, I re-dip the tool in water.

For gap filling, I usually just plonk it on there, and wait about 10-15 minutes before working with it. This way it´s quite stiff, and won´t come loose, but i can easily cut it, and can even shape it quite well.

(Most of my GS work is on tanks and other warmachines though.)

I have noticed that flat GS to flat metal joints can "hold" but often come apart later. I sometimes use this and just work on the outer details while the GS is hardening. Then after it hardens, the flat gs area can be cracked of and superglued back together or even pinned.

This means I am not too concerned about the adhesion of the GS. I consider that to be a later step, and so use a lot of water or just a little oil on the whole piece, not worrying about the adhesion point.