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hi all,
i recently bought lots of guitar string to use on the plastic CSM's to turn them all nurgle like. but i am finding it really hard to use. if you cut it to size and try to bend it into the right shape....it wont bend. if you leave it long and bend it its very hard to judge what shape to make it so that it fits onto the model the way you want....any advice on how to do this would be very welcome!

also i have been trying to take pictures of my projects to start a work in progress thread here but i cant get the detail without the picture blurring. im using a 9mega pix digi cam which i though would have been fine butturns out not. any tips on how to photo your models?

many thanks as ever

phill

In regards to the model photos, there are some other great threads on this already, but the secrets are light, tripods and (possibly) autofocus.

1. You need a fair amount of light to photo fine detail. Try shooting on a sunny day near a window. The reason that this matters is that your camera needs to have a certain amount of light reach the sensor for it to "make a picture" (more technical details can be had if you want me to go into the physics of CCDs). But basically, when it is dim, or dark out, your shutter stays open longer (cause the camera is smart), so if you move at all, you get a blur.

2. If you can't have light you need a tripod (or some other method of holding the camera perfectly still).

3. Some cameras will not autofocus on the model, but will pick up the background as the focus point. Make sure the model looks sharp on the screen before you shoot.

4. (Ok, more than what I said above). Try using the "macro Mode" on your camera. (The icon with the little flower). This sets the camera up to focus at close range stuff, and will help you get some good detail shots.

5. If you don't like the way the macro shots turn out, try puttng your camera on a tripod, or a stack of books about 2-4 feet from your model, and zooming in (without triggering the "digital zoom" which is just gak). To actually get detail, the camera must be steady.

thanks der Wiskinator
i shall try all those suggestions today! im really keen on getting some feed back on my new nurgle tanks etc. before i commit to paint. thanks, you have helped a lot!

phill

There's a trick you can use if you camera doesn't have a macro mode. It's possible to create a makeshift close-up lens system by placing an ordinary magnifying glass right in front of the camera's lens. It's important that both the magnifying glass and the camera be very still, so it's best if the camera is mounted on a tripod and the magnifying glass is clamped in a vise (or something similar). Finding the best distance from the model for such a setup takes a lot of trial and error, and the magnifying glass will distort the image slightly, with the distortion being lowest in the middle and increasing toward the edges (it's best to be far enough from the target to keep it out of the noticeably stretched parts of the frame).

I've found this technique to work well for single figures, but it's harder use with groups. I assume vehicles might be difficult as well. It, however, a lot cheaper than buying a new digital camera. All of the lighting requirements mentioned here still apply - I've found floor lamps turned on their sides and aimed at the model work nicely.

Any camera with 9mp will have a macro mode, and tripod is a must

re guitar string -
have a couple of pairs of needle nose pliers.
start bending about an inch or so from the of the string.
you need to almost stretch the wire to the bend and bend a small section a small degree at a time - little & often.
trim off the excess.

thanks bubber....i shall try!

Bubber's right on that one. Also, try a smaller guage of guitar string, they'll be easier to bend and shape. The "g" string of my bass (the smallest string) was about the right guage for most 40K cables and had enough give that it worked perfectly for the necron Wraith I needed to mount.

That's what I use for cabling. A bass-guitar 'g' string.

I use 'proper' electrical wire cutters for cutting it, and needle-nose pliers (2 pair) for bending it to shape.