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hi all,

i have tried everything i can think off. i have completely washed, rinsed and dried the pieces. i have tried two different makes of super glue (including the recomended GW glue) and i have left pieces in place OVER NIGHT! and still when i look at them the next day the come apart as if the glue had simply vanished.

am i doing something really dumb? i just dont understand how to stick my forge world nurgle dread together when glue....SUPER glue, doesnt work...

id be very very gratefull to any help you can supply.

many thanks

phill

I've never heard of superglue not sticking resin.

It may help if you pin the pieces in question as well as glueing them.

tough situation - never had problems with glueing resin with superglue.
You could try using 2 part epoxy glue if all else fails.

This may sound really stupid, but then you are having an extremely basic problem so the chances of the answer seeming damningly simplistic in retrospect are high; are you SURE it's superglue? Anychance maybe you picked up the bottle off the GW rack, bought it, and maybe didn't realize that it says plastic on the side instead of super? I know, call me a tard for suggesting somethign that obvious, but I've seen smarter people make dumber mistakes. If it is indeed super glue, have you tried accelerant, Zip Kicker? I would try it on some glue as a test piece first, just to see if it does something crazy. I've never had that problem ith forgeworld resin. Maybe you got a bad batch of glue?

Super-glue should work under 5 minutes,if it didn't stick it glue

Good super glue puts your fingers together faster than you can react.
Maybe a rougher surface will be better for your superglue?
some glues have problems with too plain surfaces.

Super glue has always worked on resin for me.

The problem I have with resin that you need to cover every bit with primer, because if you miss a spot, paint will bead and not stick to resin.

If you miss a spot, you need to hit it with some guesso.

i promise its super glue . but considering my problem its a fair question. as for dodgy glue...its stuck all my metal figures (and tried to stick my fingers together) without any problems.
i have been thinking that maybe i need to 'rough up' the joints but i really wanted to avoid that if i could. im just gonna have to pin it but its such a pain in the butt.. sigh.
thanks all

phill

you need really runny super glue - check out your local model store.
also scrape away the very top surface of the parts you are going to glue - the GW sculpting tool is good for this - to get rid of any trace of the release agent.
i normally don't wash my resin unless it feels greasy & looks a bit shiny.
it should grab almost instantlyly and the 2 parts should be flat not grooved (ie roughed up).

i had this problem with my squiggoth, just leave it in warm-ish soapy water for 20 mins, then use a harsh cleaning pad on it, let it dry and its fine.
FW just went OTT with the stuff to stop it sticking to the moulds.

i found the same problem with some FW resin pieces, too.
letting it set overnight and pinning didn't help me any either.
i found that switching glue was the solution to the problem.
stupid dollar store glue.

The way I glue resin is to lightly file it at the join point to make the surface much rougher and remove any trace of release agent that didnt already get washed off, and then to use revell superglue for small bits and 2 part epoxy glue for large parts. I have not had anything fall apart so doing that seems to work well for me.

grizgrin wrote:If it is indeed super glue, have you tried accelerant, Zip Kicker? I would try it on some glue as a test piece first, just to see if it does something crazy. I've never had that problem ith forgeworld resin. Maybe you got a bad batch of glue?

No.
Do NOT use Zip Kicker. it won't firx your problem... just give youa different one.
Zip Kicker doesn't cause Super Glue to cure properly. it simply hardens it in place.

Problem 1 with this is that the glue just hardens wherever it in (superglue drying NORMALLY will, at least, shrink down as it dries). Problem 2 is that the adhesion is actually WORSE than regular drying. The join is not nearly as strong.
Problem 3 is that your pieces won't fit back together properly when you try to put them back together after they come apart, because the "unshrunk" Superglue will cause you not to have a "clean" join.\

I do agree, though, that it might be your glue.


Eric

I just lightly sand the surfaces of resin pieces when gluing (regardless of whether I'm using superglue OR epoxy ). The process is called 'keying' and increases the surface area for the bond (as neither superglue or epoxy like a smooth surface).

which particular resin kits are you having issues with? Specifics can oftentimes help in resolving the problem. What works for one may not necessarily work for another.

hi all.....success! ok so i read all your suggestions....did all of them to a lesser or greater degree and it worked.
thank you so very much for your help. i was getting a lil worried.
having this troule on a lil dreadnought is one thing, but i have there GUO one to do too!!!

thanks again

phill.

Why not pin it? It's not that hard and it saves you the headache of parts breaking off during transport or games.

On resin models I consider anything that's glued but not pinned to be a temporary bond. It WILL break at some point and it will force you to damage your paint job to re-glue it.

Try using some very fine grained sandpaper and sand the surfaces to be glued. You can also think about drilling and pinning the pieces to give them added strength.

soak all the pieces in Wesley's Blechewhite....its a wheel cleaner for about 20 minutes, then wash them with cool soapy water and dry. If the glue is not sticking you didnt get all the release agent off....I just finished my warhound and it works wonders.

FYI if you cant find bleche white at your local autoparts store soak the parts overnight in Dr. Pepper soda. The caid in the soada will work just as well, just slower.

philpowell: I'm very happy that you got results you were good with! However, since you had what can only be described as a very weird problem, do you have any more information/suspicions as to what the issue was? I gotta be honest, I've NEVER heard of this one. I personally would have wanted to have an idea as to WTF. However, people in hell want ice water as well. I am also glad to see that you apparently picked and panned through the advice you recieved and used your own mind to decide how to approach the issue. Let us know anything more about the problem that you might have?

well grizgrin,
im not entirely sure what was going on. i washed the joints again, lightly filed them, pinned them and glued them. which seemed to work. as i dont know what was wrong, and technically i dont know which of the above actions solved the problem...i dont see how i can help.
sorry
phill

phillpowell wrote:well grizgrin,
im not entirely sure what was going on. i washed the joints again, lightly filed them, pinned them and glued them. which seemed to work. as i dont know what was wrong, and technically i dont know which of the above actions solved the problem...i dont see how i can help.
sorry
phill

Was the resin very smooth? If so then the super glue could have a problem sticking to it. Filling or sanding it usually resolves the problem.

I am somewhat of a junkie with FW myself and I am happy you solved the problem first off. Secondly though, it definately sounds like a light sanding/filing was the trick needed.

I remember my first attempts with resin were sketchy at best, until i relazied the smooths surfaces seem to repel glue/primer and paint. Some 400 grit wet sandpaper solved almost all my problems. For hidden areas a filing will do the trick.

You are trying to make a non-porous surface porous, so superglue will have its normal effect. The filing/sanding breaks the surface of the models and allows the superglue to bond properly.

And washing won't really help with gluing, but it will definately help when trying to paint the model.

And lastly Foundation Paints (from GW) have excellent covering properties on resin, compared to the regular GW paints, so make an ideal base layer after the piece has been hit with the primer.


Cheers and don't sniff too much of the resin dust

Sounds like old glue to me. Smooth surfaces have only helped superglue in my experience.

Smooth porous surfaces will be great with Superglue, but if they are non porous the super glue can't actually form a bond.

I've done loads of Forgeworld stuff. I find the best way is once you've washed it. let it air dry for a few days. Then spray it with some good quality varnish (NOT GW STUFF - I MEAN GOOD STUFF LIKE HUMBROL). Leave that to dry for a week (seriously a week) and then prime it with some proper undercoat (AGAIN, NOT GW SPRAY). I use grey primer for cars.

Your paint will never flake off again.

Humbrol Varnish? I myself will try that the next FW piece I do,always nice to have that extra layer of security against flaking.

I too use Grey (sometimes red) car primer, great coverage and paint adherance.

I haven't used GW sprays since they dumped every colour except black and white.

Besides, car primer is cheaper, and the car parts store is just around the corner, as opposed to going into town.

The key with superglue and epoxy adhesives (araldite, 5 min, 3 min, etc) is SURFACE AREA. Two smooth surfaces have way less SA than two roughened surfaces. Both superglue and epoxies give a far superior bond when applied to a roughened surface.

While I agree with Chromedog, the release agent FW uses also stops superglue from sticking....washing it properly will help as well. It sounds like a combination of fixes helped you out.

I clean up my forgeworld with a copper brush.



Also wrote a guide for my hierophant. Which encountered many problems and required drastic measures.
http://www.thepainteddragon.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1005.0

I have to say Gareth that was an absolutely excellent guide you wrote for your hierophant experience, well done sir.

I've never had any problem supergluing resin pieces,but I use extra thick superglue. It's more like a thick paste, so it holds the models together a bit better until it dries. It also fills cracks quite well, which is sometimes helpful on FW casts!

As i said, GW doesn't stock it. In the UK, you can get it in ModelZone, though...