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At the advice of several people on this board, got a bottle of the Testors Liquid Cement for Plastic Models. Seriously? I really don't think I like this stuff.

First off, a hard plastic bottle, made of opaque black, it's really hard to control how much is coming out. Seems even the lightest pressure I end up with a flood, and I can't tell when it's about to reach the tip.

Second. What kind of dry time does this stuff have? I glue some parts together, come back some hours later, and it's still not fully set up yet? With super glue most things are ready for more work and abuse after a mere ~15 minutes.

I think I'm going to stick with my trusty super glue.

Super glue is fine, but for something that doesn't have to be fixed in place quickly the plastic glue is better. The total set time on using it is 24 hours but it should be fairly firm in like 30 min.

Now, one big issue...The plastic glue is very toxic so be sure to use ventilation. The big benefit is that 2 pieces joined by the plastic glue will literally be fused together. It'd be nearly impossible to come apart.

???

I find this hard to believe. I hate it when I have to break out my super glue. Plastic cement for me is so much more preferable. That black bottle you mention is the same I have been using recently, and while I share your skepticism on the flow rate, that is easy to counter.

I never squeeze it primarily onto the parts. I always start the flow onto a scrap paper, so I know the flow is at the tip and ready to proceed. I didn't like the bottle at first, but now it is part of my tool set, as it and tube-born variety of cement have slightly different consistencies.

Your dry time woes are likely due to user error, not fault with the product. Sounds like you are using far, far too much. Once you get the amount down, the set time is just barely behind that of super glue, especially when it comes down to construction on all but the most load bearing of supports.

My advice? Put some more time into it, and be sparing with the cement. Also, if you put some cement on both side of the join it will bond quicker, as it will prep soften both sides and adhesion will go quicker.

I also greatly prefer when I can use plastic cement. It's only useful when bonding styrene to styrene, but in that situation is will create a bond that's nearly as strong as if it was molded that way.

I can't vouch for the squeeze bottles. Sounds pretty lame to me. I use the bottles with brush applicators, and they work very well.

Certainly there's a learned skillset to getting the right amount of glue, and how to get it to wick into seams, but once you have that, it can't be topped. With a little practice, you'll have it creating a little bead of melted plastic which can be shaved or filed off, with no seam showing at all.

Dry times are certainly not as short as super glue, but they're shorter than you're suggesting. I find that 3-4 hours is more than enough. But even then, I like to wait 24. You can't rush good results.

That's the problem with super glue. It certainly works, and it certainly is quick. But it's not the best option for styrene to styrene bonds. Proper use of plastic cement will produce a cleaner, stronger bond. I'll always practice patience to get something done right.

Here's a tip that melds the best of both worlds: When you're building a Rhino, or similar vehicle kit, use plastic cement to do your gluing, but drop in a big glob of super glue inside the hull where it won't be seen to hold the pieces in place. This lets you squeeze the pieces into a perfect fit, then lock them there with quick drying super glue, but with the great welding, gap reducing properties of liquid cement.

For plastic models I swear by the orange tubes of the testors plastic glue. It is more of a gel then the GW stuff and it is only about $1 a tube. I use the little plastic nozzles that you can buy this allows me to be able to control the flow and get it into tight spaces.

As long as you do not over glue with plastic glue it should melt the plastic parts together and make a very strong bond. If you use to much it will just turn to goo and take a very long time to harden.

i cant vouch for testors in particular but i can deffinatly tell you that opaque bottles and squeeze bottles of plastic glue need practise to use well, but after you know the right amount to put on and the propper technique to control the flow they work much better than super glue in my opinion.

Liquid plastic cement and an old paint brush. You can't beat it.

The best method of application is to hold the two pieces together with Sellotape, clothes pegs or Blu-tac, and wick the liquid cement into the joint. Leave the piece a few hours to let the joint set hard.

Plastic cement is basically acetone. It dissolves the two surfaces of the pieces. As the acetone evaporates, the dissolved plastic melds together and forms a single continuous piece.

The sticky plastic cement is acetone with some polystyrene dissolved in it to give it the stickyness.

As with any craft skill, practice makes perfect.

I use testors plastic glue, but I use the good ole fashioned kind in the orange tube. Never ever had any problems with it.

Oh and when I'm gluing smaller parts together I will usually squeeze a little out on a piece of paper then use a toothpick to apply it to the model, so if you have problems with too much coming out when you squeeze, just do that.

im with aduro on that one. im a super glue guy. i buy the cheapest set of super glue from walmart. it comes in a black and yellow package(almost iron warriors lol) they have 4 tubes in it anf that stuff is just simply AMAZING! it bonds really well, kindda like plastic cement but superglue and its only a buck for the 4 tubes. check it out sometime i think youd be suprised

I like "Model Master" It's easy to control the flow and sets quick.

All the stuff I glued yesterday with Testors was popping apart today when I was doing some dremeling on it. I reglued the joints with super glue, and have had no further problems with em.

@Fitzz: "model master" is a Testors branding.

I use Revell's contacta (both liquid in jar and the bottle with needle applicator). Yes, the bottles do require practice to use properly. Like all things in life. Stuff I glue has set inside 5 minutes (so it's not that much slower than superglue - which may set in seconds, but doesn't fully cure for several minutes).

I rarely use superglue on plastics - and use epoxy on metal/plastics and resin. The right tool for the job and all that.

Testors plastic cement gel, from the tube, applied thinly, gives the strongest plastic-to-plastic joints.

Liquid cement is clean-looking, but not as strong.

CA makes for a brittle joint.

I use the Model Master liquid cement by Testors. The one with the slender metal tube comeing out of the upper corner of the squarish bottle.

The dry time for the stuff really blows, and if you use too much, expect some filing to do...

The only way I've found to avoid using excess of the testors plastic cement is to take a small paper clip, straighten it out except for the small curve, then jam it into the cap, makes for a nice applicator.

I'm not sure the brand, will look for it, but it comes in a hard plastic bottle, and has a metal needle tube for the spout, the stuff is perfect and drys quickly.

Zap is the brand.

My favorite is the stuff that smells like citrus. Yum!

I'm not the most careful plastic modeler, though. So people are right when they say
that the model master toothpaste tubes are messy to deal with.

I've had the same bottle of Model Master plastic cement for years. The pipette it comes with is +++

In my mind, the slower drying time is kind of a plus, as it allows me to better pose the model I'm working on. Kinda key for getting those shoota boy's arms just right.

I dread using CA, as I know if I drop a model, I'm going on a part hunt for everything that just fell off.

For most plastic kits, I use the same testors "model master" black bottle with great success. After it gets a bit empty, the flow rates are much more manageable and the control is much superior to the old orange tubes. I haven't used the tubes in years now.

But I've occasionally had trouble with GW plastics using the stuff. I think it's the release agent they use in their molding process, though it may be the specific plastic they use. And it does seem to take longer to dry with GW plastic too, with the occasional weak joint. I dunno, GW just seems to do a lot of odd things with their clunky kits.

I've really steered toward using Tamiya Extra-Thin though for the vast majority of building lately though. Particularly with critical seam lines, it wicks into joints so nicely and bonds so well.

CA just plain drives me nuts. Can't stand the stuff. The shear strength is crap, too inconsistant in drying time, makes my eyes water if I use too much. But not much in the way of options to bond metals and resins. 2-part epoxy holds a lot better, but is more of a pain in the ass to work with.

-Hans

LOCKTIGHT!!

ive got this super glue at my work its worth 17 bucks a bottle (small one at that) but it works so good if your not fast enuff you will become part of your model

I still like my $.99 orange tube of Testor plastic cement. You have to buy the little applicator tips or you just can not reach or get good flow control.

If you get plastic pieces falling off after using plastic cement you are doing something wrong.

I'm considering again ordering this thing for resin/metal/PE work. If I never have to buy another bottle of CA glue, It would be worth it.


http://www.rai-ro.de/english/webshop/index.html

Dakka Dan wrote:For plastic models I swear by the orange tubes of the testors plastic glue. It is more of a gel then the GW stuff and it is only about $1 a tube. I use the little plastic nozzles that you can buy this allows me to be able to control the flow and get it into tight spaces.

As long as you do not over glue with plastic glue it should melt the plastic parts together and make a very strong bond. If you use to much it will just turn to goo and take a very long time to harden.

As do I.

This stuff rules.

I've never had any problems with it, whatsoever.

So, after reading this thread when it initially came up, I gave in and bought a bottle of Testors plactic glue... The brown bottle with the ULTRA thin applicator head that has 2 flat sides so it can sit with the cap off & not have everything ooze out...

I was, of course, using metal models at the time, so I had no need for it.
Recently, I've begun assembling my AoBR Orks and I desided to give it a shot.

Wow.

Okay, overall I LOVE this stuff. I have a COUPLE issues... but nothing horrible.

It smells... I mean, it smells BAD> Worse than any super glue I've ever used. Of course, I tend to hold the model < or = to 6" under my face while assembling, so that doesn't help. LOL The smell is even worse while it's curing the plastic.
blech.

Drying takes SOOO long. I tend to want to assemble one mini at a time. Clean it, assemble it (completely), then clean up the joins. I cann't do this with this glue. The plastic's still soft where the 2 pieces go together. this, too, however, is simply a matter of how the way *I* work collides with how the GLUE does. It's not a reflection purely on the glue.

The Good:
That is ONE strong bond. Fugeddaboudit. that thing isn't coming apart. If it does, you did something wrong.

The applicator tip is a GIFT. That is ONE SMALL THIN line of glue. It's easy to control and, as long as you excercise a modicum of patience during your initial squeeze, you get an easy-flowing, smooth, thin line.

I love the "tube's" shape. The hard plastic container with flat sides is far easier to squeeze (and hold) than a little tube of super glue. The fact that it stands on its' own is a bonus. A BIG bonus.

All in all, it's top notch.


Eric

I use the Testors square black bottle. The trick with flow is to trim the tip in small slices, to try to get the smallest opening. If it's too slow, then trim a little more. Like others mentioned, it probably takes a little practice. I haven't had problems with joints unless I put on too much glue. Personally, doing my Marines, any part stays after about 15-20 seconds, with a few minutes to move things around for posing. For me and my unsteady hands, that's a big plus. But, like anything else, to each his own.

The Model Master line has 2 different bottles one with a crummy plastic tip and a MUCH BETTER ONE with a metal applicator needle, which is the ONLY plastic glue I ever use, flow control is a snap and the applicator is precise, like the difference between a Knife and a Razor!

I am another fan of the good old testors plastic cement gel in the orange tube. You will break the plastic before you break the glued area. The dry time is pretty decent as well. I takes a whole day to totally dry, but you can easily start working again in 10-20 minutes. You just have to careful with application, it can get messy.

Big ups to the cheapo superglue as well. That stuff is the best for Resin, or plastic to metal bonds.

Yeah, the gel tube rocks for plastic-to-plastic joints.

For superglue, I still like to add a little talc to the joint as gap-filler and extra surface area.

I just started using the Testors in the orange tube for my scratch built super heavy, then stopped for a while. It worked really well on the styrene.
I just started using it again for plastic models with two vindicators and a pile of converyed LatD boys and biggerized chaos marines, and I rather like it. It tends to fill and smooth gaps nicely, and gives you a little time to slide peices around to get a good fit. The drying time is a bit of an issue, but not too bad if you are doing multiple models at once I find. It seems to take 10 minutes to set to the point that it can be handled without completely screwing it up.

That said, I still keep the Locktite glue handy for metal bits and plastic ones that just won't stick. I also find the stringing habits of the Testors annoying, but workable. I do need to find that applicator tip though to help handle the flow and position problems so it isn't so messy.