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I'm using resin for the first time on three trukk models I've brought from Ramshackle Games for my Ork Army. I'm looking for the basic advice. I know to wash the models, I also know about the filing and breath mask. As well as the ventilation and the idea you should file all the joints and use Super Glue. Is this all right? Any other tips I should know? Incidentally any chance that some noble Dakkaite could right a how to use resin FAQ article?

It sounds like you're off to a pretty good start... you're probably going to want some kind of razor saw for removing large plugs from parts. Filing the joints works well, but I prefer to take an X-acto blade and make some cross-hatch scoring on the mating surfaces, providing the glue with some more surface and texture to grip between the parts. I've worked with alot of resin, and prefer it over most other mediums as long as it's well done... I supposed I could write a real article over Xmas break if Dakka is interested.

Do Want.

Thanks a lot Prometheum 5 any more advice?

Well, I can think of plenty to say, but I don't have time now to write it all up... if you've got specific questions I'm more than happy to help.

I prefer to cut flash and tags of waste resin by knife. Just whittle down the resin and you'll end up with a load of shavings that can be swept in the bin.

Sawing and sandpapering creates dust, and that's when it can get nasty. Wet sandpaper before use and keep a bowl of water handy to re apply water, it'll keep the dust down.


Everything else is ok, along with what Prometheum5 has said. But there's been no mention of painting yet. Painting on resin can be a funny business. Definately wash thoroughly first, but choose your paint carefully. Some primers will not set properly on certain resins, and sometimes paints on top of primers have problems too. I don't know why, but sometimes chemicals in the resin react with the paint preventing it setting properly making it discolour, go lumpy or blister. It all depends on what type of resin it is, what primer you use and what main paint you use on top of the primer.

I've never heard of problems with ForgeWorld stuff, but there's a lot of manufacturers using different resins and sometimes you get very odd problems.

Howard A Treesong wrote:I prefer to cut flash and tags of waste resin by knife. Just whittle down the resin and you'll end up with a load of shavings that can be swept in the bin.

Sawing and sandpapering creates dust, and that's when it can get nasty. Wet sandpaper before use and keep a bowl of water handy to re apply water, it'll keep the dust down.


Everything else is ok, along with what Prometheum5 has said. But there's been no mention of painting yet. Painting on resin can be a funny business. Definately wash thoroughly first, but choose your paint carefully. Some primers will not set properly on certain resins, and sometimes paints on top of primers have problems too. I don't know why, but sometimes chemicals in the resin react with the paint preventing it setting properly making it discolour, go lumpy or blister. It all depends on what type of resin it is, what primer you use and what main paint you use on top of the primer.

I've never heard of problems with ForgeWorld stuff, but there's a lot of manufacturers using different resins and sometimes you get very odd problems.

Everything in here is true... good advice on the wet-sanding, I'd forgotten about that. As for using a knife to remove mold tags, this will work, but I've had lots of kits with plugs large enough that using a knife is impractical... if you've a good jeweler's saw, you can shoot thru resin mighty quick, and provided you're careful, I think using a jeweler's saw is a lot less damage-prone to the model.

As for the paints and mold releases... I've never really had an issue with it, but it's certainly something to keep in mind. I tend to cheat, and if a resin piece doesn't feel at all oily/greasy to me, I'll sometimes not get as worried over washing the parts as I should, and don't typically run into any problems. I used to use automotive primer to great effect, but now I really prefer Tamiya's white and grey rattle can primers... they both finish very smooth, very thin, and incredibly well-bonded to the surface. If a model is at all greasy tho, I take it and wash it with an old toothbrush and some hand-soap, and upgrade to Simple Green if I'm not satisfied they are free of mold-release. I have heard some people having problems with FW items, but I don't know if that's more due to the model or ineptitude... I've got a few small FW items here like shoulderpads and doors and had no problems, but I've got a metric ton of 'real' kits coming for Xmas, so we'll see then if I run into any problems. I'm thinking I could work thru one of the kits I get then to write an article on resin prep and work.

Click the link in my signature.

Ah yeah, I've read your article actually... It was very well done, and I liked seeing the more in-depth look at the parts of the Warhound than a build-log usually gives... shame you didn't finish the interior tho When I get one, I have every intention of spending a ton of time on the interior... I'm even adding interiors to all my Marine vees...

I admire people who go the extra mile for interiors, but the only reason to do them is for yourself. I just can't bring myself to care that much for the headache, but good on yous that do the interiors.

See, a couple of my armor modeling buddies say the same thing... I just about only build 1/35 tanks kits if I can install an interior, and aside from removing the turret and engine hatch, the final product can usually only be seen thru a few small hatches, but it's still my favorite part of modeling for some reason.

Cheers for the advice it's going well already painted the first. The Super glue worked except for some parts which needed miliput and pinning because the actual surface area wasn't big enough. Would post pics but I don't own a digi cam