Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

So, I'm starting from scratch, with no supplies, and I'm wondering what I need for a basic setup other than this...

-some kind of model glue (brand anyone?)
-paints (using vallejo game color)
-hobby knife
-brushes (probably a super fine detail, a less fine detail for base coats, a dry brush, and separate brushes for glue and metallic colors)
-primer (krylon flat black matte?)

eventually I want to get some green stuff, some plasticard, and some modeling sand/gravel mixture for some neat basing, but I want to finish my army before going in to more advanced things like that. Also... for attaching the sand/gravel to bases, would I use super strong glue for the models, or should I use something more like Elmer's?

I'm not looking for expensive things like super bright lights, as my little hobby station is mostly going to be very small at first. I want the necessities for getting some decent looking table-top quality minis.

Actually I have found you really should glue the sand to the base BEFORE you primer. The paint helps stick it to the base that much better. And elmers glue works just fine.

One thing I recomend is a set of files (Lowes, about $20). They are invaluable when cleaning mold lines.

Speaking of mold lines...this is very important for a nice looking model. Because of the way they are manufactured just about all GW product will have a mild line running around it. Take some time, trim this off, and you will be much happier with your finished product.

burb1996 wrote:Actually I have found you really should glue the sand to the base BEFORE you primer. The paint helps stick it to the base that much better. And elmers glue works just fine.

One thing I recomend is a set of files (Lowes, about $20). They are invaluable when cleaning mold lines.

Speaking of mold lines...this is very important for a nice looking model. Because of the way they are manufactured just about all GW product will have a mild line running around it. Take some time, trim this off, and you will be much happier with your finished product.

Thanks. As a couple of responses, I've done a LOT of researching on techniques, so I have answers to most of your suggestions. I plan on separating the models and the bases when I do the basing. I'm getting gridded plasticard and using that as the surface that the actual figure is going to be on, so I'm going to map out the foot position, along with other bits and debris, and then I'm going to prime and paint the base without a figure on it.

As for the files, yeah that does sound like a good idea. I was planning on just trimming down mold lines with the hobby knife, but that does sound like it could for some cleaner presentation.

Well, what I have found is that when cleaning with an exacto blade you can cut gouces into your model. So I would rather just file it smooth.

My take on new painters

http://www.kan.org/michael/mkp/new_painter.php

Ifurita wrote:My take on new painters

http://www.kan.org/michael/mkp/new_painter.php

Very helpful, also short and sweet. Thanks very much. The biggest new fact there was that I need separate glues for metal and plastic minis, but the thought of buying one of those cheap-ie 3 man space marine boxes for practice is seeming like a very good idea.

Lights don't have to be expensive and I cannot stress how important they are for
both painting and photography. (Especially if you will be painting/photographing at night.)

It is possible to pick up a daylight or craft bulb from most DIY or lighting stores for under £5 and
a cheap desklamp that is compatible for similar money.(Not sure of US$ but they are not expensive).
Failing that a halogen desklamp is a good close second.

1)A Daylight bulb will show your colours as close to 'true' both in real life and in photos (Which you must post here BTW! )

2)Using a good strong light source will reduce eyestrain allowing you to paint longer and thus
(in theory) finish your army quicker! This may not be completely scientific but I know my eyes get tired
more quickly from working in low light. If you are in this hobby for the long run your peepers are
worth looking after!

Also, get your eyes tested if you dont already wear glasses!

You sound like you are going about this the right way!
Good luck with it and keep us updated!

Some suggestions:

1) You don't have to pay for sand, just find a good construction site, or a friend with cats, and steal some.

2) You might want to have a cutting board for use with the hobby knife.

3) A pin vise some paper clips and a pair of pliers to cut them are useful for pinning stuff.

4) All the best painters use Winsor Newton Series 7 brushes. They're a little expensive, but not much more than the cheapies. You don't save money with cheap tools, particulary brushes.

BigToof wrote:Some suggestions:
1) You don't have to pay for sand, just find a good construction site, or a friend with cats, and steal some.

Use great care if you go down this road. Cats may have left you a little surprise if you go digging through their sand.

Go to Wilkos (or similar) and buy a bag of bird sand and a bag of bird grit, should cost about 50p each. Mix the two to get a huge tub of sand with some bigger "stones" mixed in... basically what GW will sell you for 6 times the price (for about a 10th as much).