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Hey again Dakka Populace... another question from the Shark...

Does anyone know the melting point of metal GW figures? Or...barring that... what type of equipment will melt it?
Blowtorch, propane torch, plsama cutter, sun beams through a magnifying glass?

A cigarette lighter will melt GW metal figures. Don't hold them in your hand while doing it, use pliers, they conduct heat VERY well.

Joyous_Oblivion wrote:A cigarette lighter will melt GW metal figures. Don't hold them in your hand while doing it, use pliers, they conduct heat VERY well.

Obviously a lesson well learned. You can probably also pop them in a pan and melt them over the stove...granted, you probably don't want it to be a pan you ever cook out of again, but...you know what I'm saying. While I haven't tried it with GW minis, I know that you can do this with other older minis. I can't imagine GW's "white metal" being so different from a melting point perspective.

I think the melting point is around 500-600degrees for pewter. I have not melted them with a lighter (not doubting that it can be done), but I have melted them with a simple propane torch. Please take Joyous_Oblivion's advice and be careful.

Now I know this is a wonderfully addictive hobby, but I must put my foot down and say: Freebasing mini's is a horrible idea.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spin_casting

Has some info on melting temperature vs. casting temperature.

When I said they melt with a cigarette lighter, I mean it..they turn pure liquid and drip off the model.

DO NOT let the drops hit your skin!!! It burns like a mother****** and lasts for a few days.

Joyous_Oblivion wrote:When I said they melt with a cigarette lighter, I mean it..they turn pure liquid and drip off the model.

DO NOT let the drops hit your skin!!! It burns like a mother****** and lasts for a few days.

Looks like there is some pyros in this forum

Teek wrote:Now I know this is a wonderfully addictive hobby, but I must put my foot down and say: Freebasing mini's is a horrible idea.

Ya caught muh! I've got some Tzeentch models that will get you waaaaayyyyy up there... hehe

Anyways, I ask because I'm going to cast a few things... or try to...and I have some models I can do without. I really only need to melt down one guy..maybe two, figuring in for error.
I think I'll try out a lighter on some old bits... then I'll try a propane torch... either way, I think I'll do good.
Just gotta make the mold, let it dry, and cst a few test runs... should be fun.

If my next post in this thread is horribly mis-spelled, it'll be because of the third degree burns...

If you are casting invest in a hotplate. Anything over 250C will ruin most moulds.

I just use a propane burner (those cartridge camp stoves are fine) and a crucible (heat resistant ceramic 'cup' used for holding molten metal) with some clamps and tongs.

All of my off-cuts and pieces of minis I don't use and haven't managed to get rid of (by giving away/selling/whatever) go into 'the pot' and melted down into an ingot (Using one of those heat resistant silicon cupcake tray things).

I've got about 2kg of white metal ingots saved up this way.

LOL

First thing I thought when I saw this was that you must also be in Melbourne!

Over 43 degrees (109F) for three days in a row.

The metal figs have not yet melted!

;-)

What about plastic?

with out a vacuum chamber making plastic models is a waste of time. If you don't want to worry about heat go with resin.

So would be ok to use sculpey on a metal GW figure and bake it (model and all) at 275 degrees fahrenheit to cure the clay?

Whatcha makin????????????????????

Plastic Nurgle's Rot.

sA

Ironhide wrote:So would be ok to use sculpey on a metal GW figure and bake it (model and all) at 275 degrees fahrenheit to cure the clay?

It should be fine. Your mini shouldn't start melting until this range: 230 °C and 300 °C (450 °F and 575 °F). It will however retain the heat better and that could affect the clay curing. You should watch it make sure it doesn't start to melt or burn, I'm very very doubtful but you should keep an eye on it anyways.

Just as an FYI the temperatures it takes to melt the metal will burn Sculpey black and will cause it to bubble and release not so good gases.

Metal (and plastic) will soften and sag before it reaches actual melting point.

Check the glass transition and melting temperatures of materials on Wikipedia or a reputable materials science database.

Remember that white metal figures are cast from alloys and without knowing the composition of the alloy you can't know for sure the melting point.

You can certainly melt metal figures on a household stove. I've accidentally melted an aluminium pan on a household stove. Melting point 660 centigrade.

Doing a conversion, but I don't want to use GS because it's not as easy to mold/shape as sculpey. Not to mention sculpey is not as expensive as GS.

Make friends with a black powder enthusiast they have every thing you need to melt metal.

Ironhide wrote:Doing a conversion, but I don't want to use GS because it's not as easy to mold/shape as sculpey. Not to mention sculpey is not as expensive as GS.

I'd suggest trying out GS again if you can afford it. If you have the right tools and setup, GS is very easy to work into fantastic shapes and sets hard without any additional effort, allowing you to work on something over a number of days building up detail as you go.

I was a GS novice a week ago, having only managed very basic blobbing.

I took on a project however, and over a short period of time my confidence with GS has gone up markedly - you can see here the daily transition of my GS efforts:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/229684.page

Cheers

I plan on going back to GS once I refine my technique.

I normally melt them on the gas hob when casting, pewter melts at about 280 Degrees Centigrade, but additions to the mix change this. RTV101 is rated in the 300 Degree range and copes with it more then happily, so I'd suspect its more like 250.

If you stick a piece of wooden sqewer in the melted metal it will smoke but not burst into flame, which is how I normaly check its at the right nice and fluid temperature for casting as thats about 300 ish.

As for working with GS, as with many things Time and Lubrication is the key!

Try KY gel or Durex Play lubricant gel, works really well with GS.

Akula, I've been casting stuff for the last few years, feel free to drop me a line if you need any advice. Always remember ONE THING.... Liquid White Metal WIILL BURN YOUR SKIN OFF.... Don't mess arround, wear gloves ALWAYS!! And yes, this IS from experience!