Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Here we are again! This time it's not an assignment but rather a small tutorial on how I do stuff. Did all of these examples a total of 30 mins. You can achieve excellent results with more time spent naturally.

First off some tips and tools used:

NATURAL SAND: Made by Liquitex. Basically acrylic gel with fine sand mixed in. You could probably get the same effect using PVA glue mix with some fine sand. Or even a medium or varnish. Be creative lol.

PATINA = 1:1 Goblin green and Enchanted blue, then 1:1 green/blue mix and water, and a little white to flatten the color.

DRY BRUSHING: I use a Stippler in this. Rather large round brush, short bristles that make a flat head.
--Always brush the best you can, perpendicular to the edges you are highlighting--



HERE WE GO!





---- Did the EXFOLIATION tutorial because I get asked how to do Corrosion building under painted armor. This example is a bit extreme but you get the idea and the process involved.--

This is a very good tutorial. I have just tried the exfoliation tech. and it works well, thankyou for this.

PS: You should consider writing some article of tutorials for us.

Good tutorial - thanks. One question though; what do you mean by 'patina touch up'?

InyokaMadoda wrote:Good tutorial - thanks. One question though; what do you mean by 'patina touch up'?

In the dry brushing step I got the brass in some areas covering the patina (green/blue mix I talk about in the introduction) and the touch up part is exactly what it sounds like. Touch up the green where the brass was not suppose to go and you're finished!

.

Beautiful stuff -- I will be trying the exfoliation approach on my Deathwing.

Yeah, these are really great! I second the article writing!

The exfoliation technique (all of these really...) would work great to make for old, torn up necrons!

Wow neat!

Is the natural sand actually melting the plastic then, or is it on top of the shoulder pad?

Natural Sand is just acrylic gel and sand. It's painted on as a chunky medium and the sand adds texture and helps it keep its shape. It does not harm the plastic at all.

Fair enough. It was just a bit tricky to see from the pictures.

The close up pictures of the shoulder pads like that kind of make me feel sick... lol it looks grouse.

can these work with tanks aswell?

Gutteridge wrote:can these work with tanks aswell?

Of coarse! Anything you need. Here is my dread that uses all three techniques.

All the chunky rust you see was started using Liquitex Natural Sand + bestial brown mixed. SHORTCUT TECHNIQUE
You can see the WIP in my blog.