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Made in us
Ork-Hunting Inquisitorial Xenokiller






My time tested method has always been a good set of files and a lot of time and patience. Recently I was introduced to a new method and I want to share it here.

The first image shows the tools needed.



The bottle is Tenax-7R. It is called a Plastic Welder.
The brush is a trusty addition from the 79 cent bin at Micheal's.

Before we begin I STRONGLY suggest purchasing a separate brush for the Tenax. This brush is for this sole item only due to the properties of the Tenax. Accidental usage of this brush to paint will ruin plastic models. You have been warned.

Next we have the new sprue.


This is the DA Upgrade sprue, robed legs.

To use the Tenax simply dip the brush into the jar and apply it in one direction across the mold line, careful not to get brush strokes in the plastic. Yes, this melts the plastic for a few moments and can build up on the brush if it is left in contact with the plastic.

Depending on the height of the mold line, it may take a few passes for it to "melt" away.

Here is the same sprue after a few passes.


Yes the camera angle has changed due to it being held by me. Notice the stark difference of the two images. This technique saves me a lot of time and dust.

The following are a few more images of what the product does.






Quote: Gwar - What Inquisitor said.
 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Aberystwyth, Wales, UK

So you used plastic glue to melt mouldlines?
Ingenius, well done
   
Made in au
[MOD]
Cutting stuff up and bunging it back together in new and interesting ways.






Under the couch

It's a clever idea, but I'm not seeing how it would be any less work than just filing them off.

   
Made in us
Steadfast Grey Hunter





Austin, Tx

Brilliant!

   
Made in us
[MOD]
Decrepit Dakkanaut







insaniak wrote:It's a clever idea, but I'm not seeing how it would be any less work than just filing them off.


Don't files get clogged? He does say in the post that it saves him from the dust.

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Made in ca
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God





Inactive


But he says the plastic also melts and gets stuck in the brush .

Not to mention the fume ( exterminatus on brain cells )

Paused
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          ʳʷ   ᵖˡᵃʸ  ᵖᵃᵘˢᵉ  ˢᵗᵒᵖ   ᶠᶠ 
   
Made in ca
Frightening Flamer of Tzeentch



in Canada

good idea effective and time saving. Thanks for the post I will be sure to use this.
   
Made in us
Ork-Hunting Inquisitorial Xenokiller






The plastic only gets into the brush if you do not use single strokes.



Quote: Gwar - What Inquisitor said.
 
   
Made in gb
[ADMIN]
Da Big Mek






London, UK

I would dearly love this to work as mould line removal (both dust and texture issues) are my biggest beef with plastic models. Has anyone else tried this with success, or are there any other things that need to be considered. I imagine that this might not work too well on heavily textured things like piping or fur, and anything that has offset moulds might not work compared to being shaped with a knife, but does anyone have any direct experience of these issues? I would try it myself but am away from my models for the next 2 weeks so more information is very welcome!

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Made in us
Ork-Hunting Inquisitorial Xenokiller






I have used this method on my Nurgle Chaos Mortals army, and have had no problems with the fur on all of them.



Quote: Gwar - What Inquisitor said.
 
   
Made in us
Thermo-Optical Tuareg






Nashville, TN

I have used this for those hard to clean areas like fur and skelly ribcages.

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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Scyzantine Empire

Would make mould line removal on areas like hands easier if it didn't melt the detail off. Is the Tenex like a liquid or is it more like the Testors plastic glue in consistency?

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Made in us
Ork-Hunting Inquisitorial Xenokiller






It is a liquid.



Quote: Gwar - What Inquisitor said.
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





San Jose, CA

insaniak wrote:It's a clever idea, but I'm not seeing how it would be any less work than just filing them off.


It's about the same amount of work really, but the advantage is that you can "melt" moldlines in areas of models where you can't reach with a file or knife.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Where do we get this stuff?
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






i usually just scrape with the back edge of an xacto blade
   
Made in us
Ork-Hunting Inquisitorial Xenokiller






Tenax is generally available at most hobby stores.



Quote: Gwar - What Inquisitor said.
 
   
Made in gb
[ADMIN]
Da Big Mek






London, UK

Any chance of some detailed photos of the label/active ingredients so that we can find equivalent products? I've not seen that particular product before but wonder if I have anything identical in my cupboards.

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Made in us
Ork-Hunting Inquisitorial Xenokiller






No problem. I will take some and get them up.

Edit.

Upon reading the label, I cant find a single active ingredient. I will get the whole label up anyways.

Asked for and recieved.





This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2009/05/08 07:00:42




Quote: Gwar - What Inquisitor said.
 
   
Made in gb
[ADMIN]
Da Big Mek






London, UK

Thanks for that, now I know what to look for

Check out our new, fully plastic tabletop wargame - Maelstrom's Edge, made by Dakka!
 
   
Made in us
[MOD]
Mossy Troggoth






The Dankhold

Whoa, that's some serious stuff Looks like a great idea! Thanks for the pics and the walkthrough
   
Made in us
Sybarite Swinging an Agonizer




Ann Arbor, MI

I want more examples on detailed areas...

-J.

In Vino Veritas. ("In wine there is truth.")

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Made in us
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws






Troutdale, Oregon

Interesting, so is the consensus that any plastic glue would work the same? I hate mold lines, if this works well it has to be better than filing away on mini after mini. Maybe I'm old, but after filing a dozen or so marines-my hands are all cramped up. I welcome a new technique.

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Made in gb
Bounding Assault Marine






I have just tried this with my Humbrol Liquid Poly cement and it worked quite well (I normally favour a combination of scalpel blade and needle file for removing mould lines). I am a true 'tightwad' Yorkshireman so I wouldn't use this technique as the sole solution to removing plastic mould-lines and having the glue bottle open for long periods of time will not only cause evaporation but give you a stonkin' headache to boot.

The technique is definitely useful for hard to reach areas though and a welcome addition to my repertoire, so a big thumbs up to InquisitorFabius for bringing us this handy tutorial, well done.


KNOW YOUR GLUE
Just as a matter of interest...most liquid poly/plastic weld products are Dichloromethane (pronounced Di - Cloro - Methane) based or a derivitive of it. Basically if it smells a bit sickly sweet pear-droppy and makes your eyes water and head pound after using it too much you have the right stuff...needless to say...use in a well ventilated area and if you can't, using organic vapor cartridges attached to a half face respirator will help keep your brain cells alive and kicking.
   
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Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws






Troutdale, Oregon

I've got enough brain cells, I usually try to kill as many as I can in one go.

Terrain Blog Reaver Blog Guide to assembling Forge World Warhound titan
"So if I want to paint my house green, even if everyone else thinks it should be red, guess what? I'm going to paint it Jar-Jar." -George Lucas 
   
Made in us
Sybarite Swinging an Agonizer




Ann Arbor, MI

jabbakahut wrote:I've got enough brain cells, I usually try to kill as many as I can in one go.


I was always taught that if you do something, do it right!

-J.

In Vino Veritas. ("In wine there is truth.")

"If a man dedicates his life to good deeds and the welfare of others, he will die unthanked and unremembered. If he exercises his genius bringing misery and death to billions, his name will echo down through the millennia for a hundred lifetimes. Infamy is always more preferable to ignominy." -Fabius Bile



 
   
Made in us
Moustache-twirling Princeps





About to eat your Avatar...

I know this topic has been inactive for a bit, but I have a bit of input.

My friend does this with most of his big mold lines. It appears to work really well, even on areas like hands. Apply the stuff as lightly as possible to get the most control. I personally use files because I can actually finish a box faster than my friend can. My building and painting methods are pretty production line, so I like to avoid any mishaps beyond my own mistakes. If you are good with files there is really no need to do this (it smells pretty bad as well).

"Note"
Clean your files with some paint thinner and a small brush (goggles are advisable for this). Pewter tends to wreck files over a period of a month or two of heavy use; there is no way I know of to avoid this.


 
   
Made in gb
Bounding Assault Marine






Wrexasaur wrote:
"Note"
Clean your files with some paint thinner and a small brush (goggles are advisable for this). Pewter tends to wreck files over a period of a month or two of heavy use; there is no way I know of to avoid this.

Use a fine wire brush (like the kind used for cleaning spark plugs)...this will clean your files up just fine!
   
Made in is
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit




Iceland

i like the toutorial , saves me from a lot of SMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSH in my vaccum cleaner

One question though :

I already used up all my spare braincells trying too use purified acetone for stripping my models in an non air condition place , does this one use up the ones i need ?

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




I've used this process for years it works very well. I stiff brush works best as does brushing perpendicular to the mold line.

In my opinion this method works best for heavily textured areas that have mold lines. Stuff like tubes, fur, wrinkled skin, and rib cages.

Use only Tenax 7R or Ambroid ProWeld as they are the thinnest plastic glues on the market. What makes this work so well is how quickly both these glues evaporate. This lets you precisely control the exact amount of mold line removed.

I use this method in combination with files, and Xacto knives. You can also smooth out a roughly filed area with a thin coat, and easily fill gaps in plastic models with a few passes.
   
 
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