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Here is the old Rhino. Again, I built this one about ten years age out of plasticard/Styrene. A friend of mine introduced me to Warhammer and I took a look the Imperial Guard vehicles and their simplicity. I told him that I could do that. He smiled at me and said "Teah... Right" Three weeks later I presented him with a Rhino. This one is different in that it has five road wheels instead of the GW version of four roadwheels. Four road wheels just did not look right. The plans for this should make it about the same size as the GW version. If the download schematics are too big, you may have to reduce them slightly like on my super Chimera done earlier. The first pic is of the Vehicle finished. The plans are next. Enjoy the build. I only download the plans for the items that I designed. The other tutorials are from someone else's downloads and I just show how I build them and any extra stuff added.

Now the fun begins. I have been downloading my build in sections. That is because more than 10 pics, seems to lock my computer while it is waiting to upload. That aside, here is the first set of instructions/tutorial. When doing the ramp, there is an overlap. Once the glue has set, trim off the excess. The ramp is positioned different than in the GW version. It is more lateral than horizontal.

More on the build. Continuing with the hull. and the Track guards.

The drawings/schematics are not adequate in the picture forum and way off. Here is a RAR file so that it is in the right size.

More build thread.

1. The headlight housing. Laminate the front only and cut or punch out circle for head lamps. Now you can either paint a backdrop red green yellow or what ever color feeds your fancy and glue them from the rear. This will give some depth to the headlights. I placed them to the top, that way they will have clearance above the plow when it is attached. You can also make the lenses on the rear clear or other colored acetate to give a glass look to the lenses.

2. Separate the roundels for the Roadwheels. One stays intact, the one for the back. The front ones have the center cut out but save the center portion for later. The roadwheel guide is folded over with a V look to the center. Glue the center portion only, do not glue the edge.
Set aside for now.

3. Follow the instructions for the muffler. Repeat 4 times.

4. Now take the road wheel guide and cut the red wedges off. It should leave you with a serrated edge. Color the track bottom only, the serrrated edge will be colored in gunmetal or metal look paint.

I love it!
What are you using to make it out of?

I think he uses paper.Nice tutorial,I love the diorama you did with it.

Deff Dread red Edition wrote:I think he uses paper.Nice tutorial,I love the diorama you did with it.

That diorama was with the new Rhino. This is the old style with 5 road wheels instead of four. And yes, it is made of paper. it is a mix of 120lb weight (the same thickness as a business card) which can be used in your printer, and a heavier stock used to make posters or an old shoe box carton. You can even use cereal box for the heavier gauge.

Here is the procedure I use to make road wheels. I used to cut the circles out and make a frame for the wheels. I came up with this idea as an alternative and is a bit faster than building up to the frame, plus I get a better rounded product. With the build up frame style, I kept making uneven wheels. This method I get the same results every time.

The road wheels are ready for attachment. This where I changed my roadwheel attachments for future tracked vehicles. This is the old procedure I used. The spacer is to bring the road wheels in so that the track would fit in place. When I finished this section I found that the bottom of the hull was too shallow. That extension came in handy because in the next posting you will see that I place another bottom hull to give it that thickness. With the new method I do not have to cut out a bunch of half spacers like I did on this build. The new method for the road wheels is in my build for the Super Chimera. This is one of the areas where the build process is different from my original sheet styrene model. On the old model I used left over spruce to do the wheel attachments to the hull. If I did it the same way in paper, it would have been too flimsy and not stood up to many games. This method and the new method makes it sturdy enough to use over and over again.

There is a side stiffener inside the track skirt/guard. this gave me a depth to calibrate the depth of the road wheels and to keep them even. Make it deep enough so that the track skirt is about the center of the road wheel or wheel hub.

Thanx for this I cant check it out too closely right now but I will definately later when I have a go. Cereal boxes That easy for me to get.. Might use that.

If you use the cereal box, use a grey paint primer over the printed or glossy side. The rough inside tends to soak the paint a little unless you use a sealant spray first. Just remember that enamel over acrylics does not work well most of the time, but acrylic over enamel does as long as the enamel is fully dry. If the enamel is still tacky, the acrylic will not let it cure and you will have a sticky finish.

Finishing up on the tracks.

1. Track center guides, glue this on first or you will have a warped track if you attach to outside track and then try to fold around the end road wheels.

2. Attach the outer track outline.

3. Cut a two equal long strips and glue them together. This will make the tracks stand out.

4. The track pads in place, see how they stand out. This is the area where The hull clearance is too high. I made another wide strip and used the edge of the inside road wheel support as the guide for making the bottom of the hull.

Almost there, there are a few dwtails to touch up on.

Main body is almost finished. If you see the bottom clearance now, you see how high the clearance is. The next posting will be on the front loader/plow and the bottom extension to fix that clearance. Here is the preliminary color scheme. Sprayed painted the vehicle with a gre primer and washed the body with a mixture of browns diluted with water.

Working on the Front Plow. Fixed that bottom clearance problem and made the plow connectors.

More on the plow and almost done. The next postings will be the last. It will be armed with 2 bolters next post.

This thread is at an end. May update later with turrets or whirlwind version.

Nice Scratch build. maybe you can show us how to make a razorback (manned/unmanned) from this? or a whirlwind?

AlphariusOmegon wrote:Nice Scratch build. maybe you can show us how to make a razorback (manned/unmanned) from this? or a whirlwind?

I have some other projects ongoing but this is the basic design, from here there are other variations that I am considering. I am going to be out of town for a week and on my return I will start doing some other add-ons and projects. So much to do, so little time.

very cool. I might have to make a few (read: 5) of these.
I dont like spending money, and I love good looking scratchbuilds.

That's awesome!

I didn't even realize it was a scratch build in the first picture, until I read the post! I really like the tracks, those things are beefy.

that.... is.... AWESOME!!!!!!!

Very cool, and I love those old rhinos...

Fantastic idea! Now just show us how to make spacemarines out of paper and you have and uber cheap army!

Great job. Now if you could make a paper wave serpent and prism tank, how about a land raider.

Fandamtastic!!! Looks like I have a weekend project!!

Sphe wrote:Fantastic idea! Now just show us how to make spacemarines out of paper and you have and uber cheap army!

If I took that bet you would lose. There is a set of plans for a Blood Raven and a Ultramarine but unfortunately they are the size of a 12 inch GI-Joe. Again, those plans are in the download section of zealot.com.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

rzsanguine wrote:Great job. Now if you could make a paper wave serpent and prism tank, how about a land raider.

Again there are plans at zealot.com in the download section for a Landraider and a Baneblade. There are other plans there for W40K imperial armor as well as flyers.

I always liked watching scratch built models come to life and this is no exception. I want to use that one rather than mine.

Vindicator#9 wrote:I always liked watching scratch built models come to life and this is no exception. I want to use that one rather than mine.

Thank you for the compliment. Keep in mind that I kept this model to strictly paper but some areas could have been enhanced by wire such as in the handrails and the crash bar on top around the exhaust system. This is a basic build and remember that in the beginning I made it out of sheet styrene, But with paper, the road wheels were easier to make.