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I don't get it. I use the macro setting and set the exposure compensation at 1.5. When I take the picture my camera is always on a flat surface so it doesn't shake. But my photos still end up blurry. I seem to take better pictures of other models in the photo than what I'm actually try to photograph.

Examples:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/41117-.html

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/41120-.html

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/41111-.html

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/41114-.html

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/41116-.html

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/41112-.html

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/41115-.html

In particular, Kharn is less blurry in the photos where he's off to the side rather than the main subject. ????

K Please remember this because it happens all the time.

Possibility : You arnt using the "macro" option. However even if its not macro mode it still shouldnt be this blurry.

So the reason should be because you are taking the pic too close . Your picture should be waaaay too big anyways, dont you have to resize? So instead of resizing , why not take a few steps back ?

Things for you to try next time : Take 1-2 feet back from your normal distant , give the subject a white back ground ( this would force the camera to only focus on the mini , and nothing else )

That should be it.

Just reminding you , this is how big your pic is:

1) What resolution are you using?

2) Does your camera have an auto-stabilize feature (to remove hand shaking)?

One thing you might try, if you have a digital camera, is set it to the 'object' mode, mine has a switch on the side for when your taking pictures of things that don't move.

Also, you may have an auto-focus feature that you have to 'trick' a little.

If you're trying to get a picture of something small, take your digital zoom all the way out. Move the camera closer or father away until you get a clear, focused image. THEN use the zoom function to get in closer.

Also, you may need to increase the contrast between the object being photographed and the background. This will also help to force the auto-focus to look at the right thing.

Also, try a few second delay. I had a similar issue caused from my finger pressing the button and the camera readjusting
when taking the image. It may not seem like it should affect the photo but we are talking about very small subjects and
focal lengths. Now I set mine for 2 secs and the problem disappeared.

Akula wrote:1) What resolution are you using?

2) Does your camera have an auto-stabilize feature (to remove hand shaking)?

I think the res is 3056x2292 and yes, I have auto-stabilization.

Lenses and cameras have certain minimum distances you need to be from a subject to focus on it. Some also have annoying features that don't let you control what point in the view finder is being focused on. Chances are you have a minimum focal distance of around 18" so back the camera up, zoom up to your optical zoom limit (disable digital zoom if you can) and snap the shot on a steady surface.

Hello

I know some people swear by the Macro function, but sometimes you might have a shaky hand, and even with the best auto-stabilisation function, the camera will be jerky, lenses waver, and as soon as you press the button, the image ruined and out of focus.

Have a go at using the 'S' function if you have one on your digital camera, it usually means shutter function, where the camera will control (with preset values) the speed of the shutter.

It's good when you have a shaky hand, because it will take a photo much more quicker than the standard setting.

I don't think using a higher resolution is any better either. I mean, I think a 1280x1024 is fine. Since you're going to have to edit and crop the image to show only the model anyway.

Someone also mentioned the object function, I think this is the same as the range finder function on some cameras. Basically mine has different ways for the camera to focus on, the background, a single laser point like dot, faces etc. Basically a range finder... there's no other way of explaining it (because I suck at explaining things). You might want to play around with different settings.

But like the first response said, you have to take a few steps back. The Macro function will go haywire if the lens is close to the object - hence the blurry distortions.

Take a few steps back, play around with the focus/range option, and try the shutter function if your hands feel shaky.

inzeos wrote:Lenses and cameras have certain minimum distances you need to be from a subject to focus on it. Some also have annoying features that don't let you control what point in the view finder is being focused on. Chances are you have a minimum focal distance of around 18" so back the camera up, zoom up to your optical zoom limit (disable digital zoom if you can) and snap the shot on a steady surface.

QFT. What Luna said about the background is also right, your camera not actually be focusing on the miniatures because it gets confused as to what you are trying to make it focus on. Also, a plain white background helps you to easily adjust the white-balance settings as well, making for more color-correct shots.

You should know if the model is in focus because you'll see through the viewfinder what the camera has focused on. Some cameras take a while to focus, so you hold down the button gently for a second or two before squeezing down fully to take a photot. I'd be sure that you've got the Macro on (usually a flower symbol), but also that you're not too close to the object. Even macros have a focal length of a few inches though cameras are getting better all the time. You're probably better off putting the camera several feet away and using the zoom. Sometimes the mass of a miniature isn't enough for a camera to lock on and focus, and no matter how hard you try it ends up focusing on the wall or skyline behind. So try a solid background, and then gently light the miniature from the front and take the photo with the light source behind you. Cameras don't like taking photos with the light source behind the object because they over compensate creating a lot of contrast. The skyline comes out nicely but the miniature is totally black, this happens a lot with people's holiday photos. The sun should be behind the cameraman lighting up the subjects, yes I know they moan the sun is in their eyes but it makes for a better photo as long as they don't squint.

Some cameras have the macro able to work with the self-timer mode, this helps eliminate camera shake purely from the button press. A combination of this AND either a tripod or some other way of stabilising the camera (small beanbag?) should eliminate shake for good.

Check the destruction manual for the minimum focusing distance in macro (will give it in cm, usually).

Oh, and use a smaller file size and CROP to fit the mini.

A few have already said it but I'll say it again. It's because the camera is too close. You can always take it from further away and crop the image in photoshop afterwards.

The macro distance listed for your camera is 5.1" - 2.3 feet.
Make sure that you're in that range when you're taking pics.
Also, set up a backdrop and use proper lighting.
A couple of desk lamps should do the trick.
The backdrop can just be a piece of printer paper that you lay against a wall so that it curves.
Put the fig on the bottom part.


Taking huge pics is perfectly fine. Just make sure that you don't post them directly to the thread
because it makes it impossible to read posts without having to scroll around. If you post
from the dakka gallery it will automatically resize the image

I almost always take pictures in sunlight. Nothing better for lighting then a giant ball of exploding atoms to get the lighting perfect. And yea, first thing that came to my mind, is way to close.

You could use the macro funtion and place down your camera somewhere stable like a table. This way you should have accurate photo. I'm also using this free photo editing program called Photoscape,
http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/download.php
which is pretty easy to use to rezise and combine photos.

Others have said it but I think its worth emphasising. Just because you are using Macro mode doesn't mean you can jam your lens into the model to take a picture. Macro mode allows you to focus on close in objects, but there are still limits.

Digital cameras will autofocus, even using Macro mode, so if you half-press the shutter button you should wait for a green light/icon/thingy to tell you that its focussed up properly before taking the picture.