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I got a rhino, and i painted it for the black templars, but since i didnt have any large brushes, my mom told me to try a brush we use to paint the house. now my rhino looks like its made of wood and it had a bunch of places where it bunched up but i cleaned those out. anyway i had the idea of spraying a layer of primer over the model and seeing if that would fix it, but before i get into any more of a hole with it, i wanted to here what you guy think. please tell me ideas to fix it or if my idea works, thanks.

A pic would help immensely

How do i get pictures uploaded from my pictures on the desktop to the page?

Iron Gryphon wrote:How do i get pictures uploaded from my pictures on the desktop to the page?

wow, thats a project, i see flecks of blue everywhere, was that thing blue before you painted it over in black?

Spraying primer over that will NOT fix it. Doing so would add more paint and obscure even more detail.

You could try stripping it and starting again.
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvLink on how to strip modelsvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/246978.page

BUT....
Stripping a large model like that is going to be a proper PITA.
In my opinion I would take a hammer to it and use it for scenery/a slightly elaborate 'vehicle wrecked' counter.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

(Or you could try and sell it to a nurgle player)

Alex Kolodotschko wrote:Stripping a large model like that is going to be a proper PITA.

Tricky yes, but not impossible - just carefully pry off any bits that look like they'll come unglued easily (you might get lucky) then strip the rest of it one area at a time. Don't try to rush the process.

Also, next time ask us friendly Dakkites for modeling advice, don't ask your mum - unless she happens to be Victoria Lamb of course

I dont believe he should wreck the model and use it as scenery.

Strippin it of paint would help.

Spraying over it seems the worst option.

Since you have a standard rhino hull, just get rid of the paint. Start new, but add some details from the vehicle upgrade sprue to distract
from lost details ( whatever you like, purityseals, eagles, skulls,..).

But remember to get a better brush and maybe this time use black primer spray first.

BURN IT BURN IT NOW!!!!!!!!!!

There is one solution to fix it without re priming / respraying / stripping / or burning it.

Most of paint's thickness is only visible via 2 ways. Uneven coating or , diminished details.
Neither is an issue in our hobby because after all , dry brushing and high lights are a way to create false lighting.

With that said , as long as dry brushing are NOT applied onto the noticeable areas ,
it'll be hard to see the uneven surface.

Here are my Hell Hounds , believe it or not its 4 paint coats thick atleast ( 3 coats before i started, the turret itself have 6 coats rofl )
but why is it not noticeable? because the color are placed to totally obscure the lights that would reflect from the uneven previous thick paints.

Nice Luna. And a like the colour scheme youve got on those hellhounds

BoW- John

Or you could use a real fine sandpaper, say Nº 640 to smooth the surface, reprime with a spray, paint again and pretend nothing happened ^^

You're in the states so here's my suggestion:

1) Go to walmart
2) Get a dirt cheap piece of tuppaware (however you spell it)
3) Get a 5 dollar bottle of simple green concentrate
4) Place model in said container
5) Fill with simple green and close the lid
6) Wait 24 hours then remove
7) use an old toothbrush and running water to scrub clean
8) Let dry then paint properly

I say the states because simple green isnt available other places I dont think

LucasLAD wrote:You're in the states so here's my suggestion:

1) Go to walmart
2) Get a dirt cheap piece of tuppaware (however you spell it)
3) Get a 5 dollar bottle of simple green concentrate
4) Place model in said container
5) Fill with simple green and close the lid
6) Wait 24 hours then remove
7) use an old toothbrush and running water to scrub clean
8) Let dry then paint properly

I say the states because simple green isnt available other places I dont think

Yes, I did this with an ebay rhino that had forge world doors and the worst paint job ever. It worked very well.
And Simple Green is available here in Australia BTW.

That sounds like a plan, the simple green way is always one of the best ways...

All so great ideas, but i am going to try some sandpaper and if that doesn't work i'll try the Simple Green stuff. Thanks for the help.

Iron Gryphon wrote:All so great ideas, but i am going to try some sandpaper and if that doesn't work i'll try the Simple Green stuff. Thanks for the help.

I'll tell you this, if you're trying to save money because you have some sand paper lying around you're going to cost yourself. By all means do what you want, but if you don't sand the rhino smooth you're going to dig gouges into the plastic and it'll look even worse. Here's the thing if you do a bad job sanding it then it's going to look like utter !@#$ if you do a good job sanding the detail is going to be gone. If you use 1000-2000 grit paper you're going to heat the paint up to the point that it'll melt and then you'll have a real mess.

From someone with experience, spend the 6 possibly 7 dollars and simple green it. Otherwise you're going to be 35 dollars down because you have to buy a new rhino

Simple Green it.

I've done a Rhino mysef with Dettol (I am UK based) and it was not without effort, but was achievable.

Iron Gryphon wrote:All so great ideas, but i am going to try some sandpaper and if that doesn't work i'll try the Simple Green stuff. Thanks for the help.

So you're going to fix a lack of details by sanding them off completely? Don't use sandpaper unless you're taking paint off of something with no raised details. In other words, don't sand unless it's a Tau tank

Use a chemical stripper. Simple Green or some brake fluids work great for taking off paint. Just pour it into a big bucket, bowl, jar, or other means of containment that will fit a tank, and let the model sit for a day or so. Then just use an old toothbrush to brush off the paint.

Don't sandpaper it. It really won't work, the flat places may get paint removed but the crevasses and other such places where you want the thick paint to be removed will be untouched, and the details that you don't want removed will be sanded away. Use some sort of stripping chemical, if you don't want to get simple green then rubbing alcohol works alright.

If he uses brake fluid on a plastic model his rhino is going to be a blob of goop on the bottom of the container.

Simple Green for plastic. Brake fluid for metal

LucasLAD wrote:If he uses brake fluid on a plastic model his rhino is going to be a blob of goop on the bottom of the container.

Simple Green for plastic. Brake fluid for metal

I used dot4 brake fluid to clean up a whole load of my plastic models the other day, including a rhino, and it worked perfect. No melting whatsoever after I left them in it for about a week.

Are you saying this from experience?

LucasLAD wrote:If he uses brake fluid on a plastic model his rhino is going to be a blob of goop on the bottom of the container.

Simple Green for plastic. Brake fluid for metal

Read poster's comment above this. -Some- brake fluids do work. But always test all chemicals (Especially Brake Fluid) out on a piece of sprue first because yes, some of them will melt plastic.

so i should just get Simple Green Concentrated? If you can give me a picture so i know exactly what to get. Thanks.

Hint: Google is your friend.

Did you consider buying a few brushes instead of using the big one?

metallifan wrote:

LucasLAD wrote:If he uses brake fluid on a plastic model his rhino is going to be a blob of goop on the bottom of the container.

Simple Green for plastic. Brake fluid for metal

Read poster's comment above this. -Some- brake fluids do work. But always test all chemicals (Especially Brake Fluid) out on a piece of sprue first because yes, some of them will melt plastic.

Back in my earlier days I remember reading that someone used brake fluid, so I tried it with some stuff I had in my dad's garage, ruined my minis. That was over 15 years ago and I'm sure they've altered the formula for DOT brake fluid to be a lot safer. Still I error on the side of caution. I find that simple green obliterates paint on pretty much everything from metal to resin to plastic.

Ok my dad and i are going to get some Simple Green soon.

Oh just spray it again, or use another coat.

The diminishing of the detail isn't as big of a deal as people make it. Nobody is going to be checking your Rhino for minor mistakes, nobody expects it to be perfect. Far too many people take stuff like this way too seriously.

I am honestly amazed someone even suggested turning it into terrain, that would be the last thing you should do with it. If nothing else strip the paint and re paint it. but honestly the small amount of diminished detail wouldn't be worth giving up on your Rhino altogether.

Next time though, use a small brush instead of using a makeshift brush. Yes it may take longer but it would be worth it to avoid accidents such as this.

If you ever fancy doing a Nurgle army you could convert it into a Nurgle Rhinowith some added bits and pieces