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Right now I am putting together a few marine bikes and am getting join lines between the two main pieces which make up the bike. To be clear, they are not gaps, I'm using poly cement and they're right tight together. These are more like mould lines except they cant be fixed with a knife as it's kind of like the parts have touched together at the bottom and left a recess at the top.

Here's a crappy diagram of what I mean. Side on from the two pieces...



I'm sure I'm not the first one to encounter this I just don't know what the proper name is and don't know if you will get what I mean.

Anyway, anyone have an easy fix for this, besides green stuff, which I am hoping I wont have to do this due to the time it will take.

tia

Alot of the new vehicle kits are like that now, best bet is a small line of GS, then simple smooth over the gap and remove excess putty.

Ah, I was hoping this wouldn't be the case.

The best bet is to use a plastic welding glue like Ambroid Pro-Weld or Tenax 7R. It will make seamless joints in plastic without any filler.

If you press them together with a little force a small bead of melted plastic will form at the join line and fill any errors like this one. You then sand the joint flush without the need of fillers.

Cheers linkdead, works. Unfortunately in some places I can't get it tight enough due to the bike wheels being in the way but it's made less of a job of it.

Lots of rubber bands are your friends when you are putting bikes together!

In a pinch, I've put superglue on it, mounded higher than the level of the join, then sprayed it with accellerator to make it solid. Once the liguid from the spray dried, I went at them with a modeling file. Once it was filed smooth & painted, you couldn't see the difference between it, a GS'ed join and a solid piece of plastic.

Eric

I use liquid polycement and scrape the line away before it hardens completely. It's how I've always made plastic kits since I learned how to do it back in 1982.

Rubber bands are your friends with larger kits, for sure. Baneblade, Valkrie, Land Raider.

I've used this and it works very well.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/242132.page

Hmm, looks effective. But risky.

werewolfhunter wrote:I've used this and it works very well.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/242132.page

Yeah. That's one of the things on my "to try" list.
I'm just trying to think of a way to do it without wasting a brush. LOL

Eric

MagickalMemories wrote:

werewolfhunter wrote:I've used this and it works very well.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/242132.page

Yeah. That's one of the things on my "to try" list.
I'm just trying to think of a way to do it without wasting a brush. LOL

Eric

just buy some halfbad-quality brush. they are everywhere and very cheap

In the uk you can get these cheap kiddys paint sets in supermarkets, they have plastic bristled brushes in them which aren't effected by the glue and can be used over and over without going hard.

@TFA
The idea of spending money on something only to ruin it just kind of makes my (highly frugal) stomach turn. : )

Eric

Thick CA, let set, and some scrapping and sandpaper

Testors makes a gap filling paste that is for exactly this. I have used it a few times, it is faster than green stuff to apply because you use in a similar manner as spackle but it takes 24 hours to dry. Here is a link to the putty I am talking about http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rm_tes.htm I am not endorsing the store, I just googled it but this is the stuff I am talking about.