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Hey folks!

I just bought my first ever block of "Green stuff." I'm using it to try fixing some of my broken models; for example, I have a dark eldar ravager with the tip broken off - I mushed up some green stuff, put it on the tip of the ravager, smoothed it out the best I could to a point to make it look like its supposed to. If you don't inspect it too closely, you can't really tell that its not a natural part of the vehicle.

Any tips for smoothing out green stuff? How to make it have edges where I need it to?

Also, I was wondering last night about its application as a bonding agent instead of glue. Does anyone do that? Instead of using superglue or hobby glue to attach something, use green stuff to hold and reinforce it? If you drop something you make like that reinforced with green stuff, will the green stuff bond break like superglue does?

The best way to smoothe it out is to use a wet hobby tool (like a sculpting knife). The wet surface will stop the GS from sticking to your tool. It is also wise to wet your fingers when mixing to avoid it sticking (and leaving fingerprints).

Secondly, no never use GS over glue. The bond you get from glue is much better than that of greenstuff. Although, I have used a combination of the two (glue on surface, then a blob of greenstuff, then glue again) when assembling large metal models, but on plastics, glue is the winner by-and-far.

Awesome! Thanks for the input about the wet fingers....I'll start doing that.

I also heard that using some lotion to reduce friction on your fingers is a good idea. I haven't done it yet but I found water to be pretty useless.

I use a tiny bit of cooking oil, this works very well to get smooth finishes, and stops things sticking at all, but make sure you wash the model before painting or the paint won't stick well

I don't like water at all. Spit seems to work pretty well. Some people use petroleum jelly, but you have to clean the model well afterward.

I'm actually thinking about using a personal lubricant. I know there are some out there that are supposed to dry without residue, but I haven't played with it yet.

You can also sand and file GS after it hardens, I believe. Should help getting good straight lines.

I haven't used one yet, but paint shapers are supposed to work well. They have smooth silicone tips that are supposed to work well. I can't find them here and haven't bothered to find them online to order from them yet.

I use GS (other than conversion work) to put on broken parts to small to be glued.

An easy and effective way to get smooth surfaces when working with GS is to use clay shapers (silicon tipped sculpting tools). The GS doesn't stick to them at all so no need to wet them or the GS when working.

Also, as I stated in a previous thread, adding FIMO polymer clay to GS changes the characteristics of the putty making it more clay like and less sticky. A ratio of around 4 parts GS to one part FIMO is a fairly good mix. This also helps greatly to break down the 'memory' element of the GS so fixing details in the putty and having them 'round out' as it cures becomes less of a problem using this method.

Finally, if you want to keep the edges of your GS sharp you can go about it in two ways... Firstly, you can keep working your GS until it has firmed up enough to leave (after about 1-1 1/2 hours after mixing the putty). By this, I don't mean to constantly work the GS, just retouch the edges as it is curing so they don't round out. Alternatively, you can use a cut & scrape method whereby you cut the excess GS off of the mini after it has cured and scrape the surface of the putty with a hobby knife or scalpel til it is smooth. Neither method is fool proof, but with practise you should see some fairly good results.

Hope this helps


Stuart

I bought some of those clay shapers from Ebay - they are awesome for 'non-stickyness' on greenstuff. Only recommendation - dont get the soft ones (go extra firm). Now i have both... (for just twice the price)!

I don't know what a clay shaper is, or one of those non-sticky tools.....but petroleum jelly, lube, spit, water....if a stranger read this thread *laughs*

Could someone link one of these? And if one of those tools can help sculpt the green stuff as much as making straight lines and smoothing it, that would be ultra-cool.

Lukus83 wrote:I also heard that using some lotion to reduce friction on your fingers is a good idea. I haven't done it yet but I found water to be pretty useless.

Using some lotion... to reduce friction... I... don't know what to say...

Dashofpepper wrote:I don't know what a clay shaper is, or one of those non-sticky tools.....but petroleum jelly, lube, spit, water....if a stranger read this thread *laughs*

You are, of course, correct!

Dashofpepper wrote:
Could someone link one of these? And if one of those tools can help sculpt the green stuff as much as making straight lines and smoothing it, that would be ultra-cool.

Try these:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/colour-shapers-tools/

Thanks!

Seems like they're out of stock though? For the set of 5 at least.

Sorry - forgot to check stock levels (I already have fine!).

I bought individual pieces too, so maybe that's the way to go?

I'm sure they'll be back in stock soon(ish) though, as that's where I bought mine, back when I also bought a wet palette...

btw - clay shapers are also called colour shapers.
If you use a sculpting tool to smooth down the GS make sure it's clean and smooth itself.

Wet pallettes can also be made for free -
get an ols blister pack - a rectangular one not a GW slopy one.
Put the packaging sponge in.
Add water
Cover the sponge with some grease-proof paper.
Voila - a wet pallette.

Gray Stuff drys a bit harder and is better for working edges and such. Also, I don't see it mentioned but you can use an old brush, dipped in water, and brushed over Green Stuff to get it smooth and finish the area you worked. I find it less messy than constantly working with water (I can't imagine oils) and rubbing alcohol for a really smooth and/or detailed finish.