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Made in se
Twisted Trueborn with Blaster




Sweden

I just made a search for 'solder' to see what I'd find.. Not much, just that it could be used by those alergic to super glue.

So, since I'm no fan of seeing metal models fall apart (I've got an old metal Space wolves Dreadnough who kept doing that) I wanted to try something new. I tried greenstuff, which didn't work out very well.. And so I went to get my solder pen and get it together. However, there's a problem.

As soon as I remove the pen, the tin hardens, I don't have enough time to put the pen away and put the arm in place! >.<

Anyone got any tips about soldering?

Not enough oysters. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





New Jersey, USA

First off, and I can't stress this enough. Be careful it is very easy to ruin a metal model this way.

With that being said you need to make sure that you have two vital peices before starting. A good temperature controlled solder station and the lowest melting point solder you can find.

With these, the way you solder you have to heat the parts at the same time, its hard to explain and fairly difficult to do. But basically you need to heat the two parts you are soldering and melt the solder useing the parts.


 
   
Made in fi
Calculating Commissar







You can solder white metal models together, but you need specialist tools for the job. The idea is to use temperatures low enough not to melt whatever alloy you're using. By the sound of things, whatever you're doing is wrong, though. Every soldering technique I've ever heard of involves having the two parts in position to start with, then adding heat and solder into the equation, instead of trying to melt it down and use it like glue (because, as you discovered, that is impossible).

I can't give any more specific help than that because I've not used it for anything models-related. I advise you to look at model railroaders, though. A lot of the small-run craftsman kits for their hobby are white metal and etched brass affairs that you solder together.

The supply does not get to make the demands. 
   
Made in se
Twisted Trueborn with Blaster




Sweden

I just burnt my fingers on the model which got reeeeally hot, reeeeally fast.. I don't think this old solder I've got is meant for this kinda stuff. o.O I'll just go with glue... Thanks anyhow.

Not enough oysters. 
   
Made in us
Evasive Eshin Assassin






if youre allergic to super glue then this isnt the hobby for you my friend.
what are your plans for combination plastic metal minis?
   
Made in se
Twisted Trueborn with Blaster




Sweden

usernamesareannoying wrote:if youre allergic to super glue then this isnt the hobby for you my friend.
what are your plans for combination plastic metal minis?


I didn't say I'm alergic to it, I just found some dusty old thread from 08 with some guy who was, where someone else suggested him to solder his metal minis together.

I'm anything but alergic to the stuff, there's nothing more fun than gluing my own hands together and then sit with the scalpel and cut 'em apart again.. Which is pretty hard when my hands are glued together, though.

Not enough oysters. 
   
Made in us
Evasive Eshin Assassin






Riffzor wrote:
usernamesareannoying wrote:if youre allergic to super glue then this isnt the hobby for you my friend.
what are your plans for combination plastic metal minis?


I didn't say I'm alergic to it, I just found some dusty old thread from 08 with some guy who was, where someone else suggested him to solder his metal minis together.

I'm anything but alergic to the stuff, there's nothing more fun than gluing my own hands together and then sit with the scalpel and cut 'em apart again.. Which is pretty hard when my hands are glued together, though.
rofl... my mistake man. enjoy the glue
   
Made in us
Bounding Assault Marine





Boston

Getting a hobby vice could help you out. they are pretty cheap.
   
Made in us
Confessor Of Sins






Scranton

pinning is safer... easier... and far less annoying

 
   
Made in us
Kid_Kyoto






Probably work

The one time I tried soldering an old reaper mini that had lost an arm, I ended up with something that looked like it got hit by a plasma gun. They've already all been covered, but to emphasize the fact, the lessons I learned:

-Don't use soldering meant for hobbyist electronics.

-Don't use the $10 radio shack soldering iron you bought for said electronics.

-Don't hold the mini in your hand.

Glue and pinning are your friends. Pinning's not even always required. I have an Inquisitor Lord Karamazov assembled entirely with only glue. The only parts that ever have fallen off of him are the ones that would be too small to pin anyway. Not saying it's best practice or anything, but it's interesting.

Assume all my mathhammer comes from here: https://github.com/daed/mathhammer 
   
Made in se
Twisted Trueborn with Blaster




Sweden

I guess I'll have to start trying with pinning, then =)

Not enough oysters. 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




If your allergic to CA you can buy "odorless CA" which you should not react too.

   
Made in se
Twisted Trueborn with Blaster




Sweden

*points upwards* I'm still not alergic. o.O

Not enough oysters. 
   
Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA










 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Riffzor wrote:I just made a search for 'solder' to see what I'd find.. Not much, just that it could be used by those alergic to super glue.

So, since I'm no fan of seeing metal models fall apart (I've got an old metal Space wolves Dreadnough who kept doing that) I wanted to try something new. I tried greenstuff, which didn't work out very well.. And so I went to get my solder pen and get it together. However, there's a problem.

As soon as I remove the pen, the tin hardens, I don't have enough time to put the pen away and put the arm in place! >.<

Anyone got any tips about soldering?


You want a tip? DON'T Solder the minis. You use a pindrill a piece of small wire, and glue it by using the standard glue that you use on your minis. There are several types, I use zap a Gap, but others have had good luck with the testers in the bottle and other CA glues. Leave the flames away from the glues, you don't need to burn your had off.

for 1, the solder is the wrong type of metal for the job. Using the acid core is going to go nowhere fast, and using the other type is only going to end up brasing the metal with a nice sheen. The solder has a lower temp to mealt down then the mini, depending on the type of metals used, you are going to havfe to do more homework then you really need to to get the right concentration of metals to match your mini.

For the other, your more or less trying to keep the pieces together, while heating both up, and watching yourself put your work through more issues thewn you honestly need to. whats going to happen is that you end up burning your mini up and mealting both parts. They won't stick together, they will more or less just mealt at the higher tempatured areas, while disfiguring the mini, all the way down to heating up the metal and possible seperating the mixed metals of whatever the mini was made of.

Its not 1980 anymore, minis are mixed differently with different concentrations of materials in the whitemetals that they make minis out of these days.

Pinning.

Good glue.

Patience.

Greenstuff AFTER the pinning, to fill in the gaps.

Be careful of the bright idea fairy, she will get you hurt almost every time.



At Games Workshop, we believe that how you behave does matter. We believe this so strongly that we have written it down in the Games Workshop Book. There is a section in the book where we talk about the values we expect all staff to demonstrate in their working lives. These values are Lawyers, Guns and Money. 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Burtucky, Michigan

Breotan wrote:











Its just missing clips but yea totally this. Trying to convince people to ALWAYS PIN METAL is almost as important to me as convincing people that SuperClean is WAY better at stripping paint off minis then simple green. Speaking of..... Im now going to put that in my sig
   
Made in au
Sinewy Scourge






Western Australia

... that pug is disturbing.

Kabal of Venomed Dreams
Mourning Angel
UsdiThunder wrote:This is why I am a devout Xenos Scum. We at least do not worship Toasters.

 
   
Made in se
Twisted Trueborn with Blaster




Sweden

Yeah I suppose I'll have to start pinning stuff. Thanks for the tips guys!

Not enough oysters. 
   
Made in gb
Lord Commander in a Plush Chair





Beijing

You could try a two-part resin epoxy, that's what we used in the old days when first buying GW miniatures. Pinning is best though, can take a while but the results are worth it.
   
Made in us
[MOD]
Madrak Ironhide







I use GS and glue for most project. It's generally good enough.

DR:70+S+G-MB-I+Pwmhd05#+D++A+++/aWD100R++T(S)DM+++
Get your own Dakka Code!

"...he could never understand the sense of a contest in which the two adversaries agreed upon the rules." Gabriel Garcia Marquez, One Hundred Years of Solitude 
   
Made in jp
Krazy Grot Kutta Driva





Chiba, Japan

I'm intrigued as to why you considered soldering at all if you're not allergic to CA. Surely it's bound to be more hassle than it's worth...

In the grim darkness of the 41st millennium there is only Devlan Mud Agrax Earthshade.
My Scientific Scavvies (WIP)
The Free Mechanised Goblin Republick
Malifaux (so far just Hamelin the Plagued) 
   
Made in se
Twisted Trueborn with Blaster




Sweden

Soldering sounds fun?

Not enough oysters. 
   
 
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