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Hi,
I normally use oven cleaner because its easy to find and really cheap. Just put the stuff into a tupperware overnight and toothbrush it under water the next day.

One time I had a ton of metal terminators to strip. I went to my local hardware store and asked them what they had.
They gave me a quart of the original rock miracle
http://www.rockmiracle.com/productdetail.asp?cid=8&pid=45
This stuff is crazy. You absolutely have to wear a paint mask and rubber gloves, and have open ventilation. And it will destroy plastic, so can only be used on metal minis.
But I stripped like 75 terminators in three hours. I was brushing this stuff on the termies and by the time I finished brushing one model, the model before had paint sliding off it. Ran under hot water and the paint came off all at once. It crazy caustic and has pretty bad fumes, so caution is necesary but if you have a lot of metal and want it done quick, cheap, and completely this is the way.
Cheers.

JohnHwangDD wrote:Does nobody do homework on the Internet anymore?

No.

I rely on pretentious internet users to do my research for me.

I don't think you can get Castrol Super Clean in the Uk - or maybe it's branded as something else...

Anyway, I use Nitromors. It's horribly toxic, so you need rubber gloves, but the stuff is so damn thick there's very little chance of 'splashes' into eyes etc...

We's Orks awways use 'ammer end of a choppa on dem minis, 'nuff poundin and der be no paint lef'!

Castrol Super Clean it is for me!

I would think you should be able to get it where you
are.I use Premium thinners.Not to be confused with
the stuff they sell in diy shops.This stuff seems to be
only available in spraygun shops(cars etc).This stuff
is the best I've ever used.It works straight away.
Results depend on how long paint has been the model.the
paint will eventually come off older paintjobs.
1)It stinks,it really does!Have all windows open.
2)It hates plastic
3)Not very good with enamel.

Super Clean may be available as an alternate product in the UK under the description "driveway degreaser". Check any auto parts store for this kind of product.

its just brake fluid isnt it? Castrol GTX i think is the same stuff...

WaaaaghLord wrote:its just brake fluid isnt it? Castrol GTX i think is the same stuff...

GTX is synthetic motor oil

Gitkikka wrote:

JohnHwangDD wrote:Does nobody do homework on the Internet anymore?

No.

I rely on pretentious internet users to do my research for me.

I'll take that as thanks and a compliment.
____

WaaaaghLord wrote:its just brake fluid isnt it? Castrol GTX i think is the same stuff...

No, it isn't.

That said, I *dare* you to put that into your car and see what happens...

I use "goof off", it's super powerfull heavy duty stuff and works very quickly.

I dont know its english name but I use Sterillium. It is a blue (or sometimes green) fluid used for example in hospitals to desifect yor hands after handling with sick people. You can surely get it rather cheap in any drugstore.
The best part about it, not only that it can be used a very long time and works very fast is that it is not harmful to you and non toxic.
I tried many diferent things, but Sterillium works the best for me either metal or plastic minis.

Gitkikka wrote:You want nasty? Oven cleaner is the ticket (I've used Easy-Off in the past). Horrible, horrible crap but it WILL even take old enamels off. I haven't tested it extensively, but it may damage softer metals (like lead). You will want the full compliment of goggles, dustmask and rubber gloves when spraying this stuff around.

meh, i used it to strip about 40 saurus warriors the other day, with no safety gear, while smoking cigarettes... I'm okay. good stuff.

MagickalMemories wrote:

ChaosDave wrote:You don't have to get fancy or even toxic with brake cleaners, oven cleaners, toluene or even acetone. Simply go pick up a nice smelling house hold cleaner called Pinesol or a generic equivalent. Leave the miniatures in it over night and take a tooth brush to them.

You seem to have missed the point.

he doesn't want to have to take a toothbrush to them and, if he does, he wants it to ba a minimum. Pine Sol sucks.
It does NOT do will with paint in creavasses, and isn't as powerful a cleaner as most items mentioned in this thread.





Personally, I'm thinking blow torch. It'll cause that paint to blister up in NO TIME flat.


Eric

Actually no matter what you try there will always be some left in crevasses. What really helps is a sonic tooth brush to knock that junk out of there.

Gasoline should have some toluene and benzene in it. It might do the trick if you can't find straight toluene or MEK.

I'm guessing if you tried acetone you also tried mineral spirits (paint thinner)? Should also be available at hardware stores.

If you are looking for even worse stuff to use, xylene or methyl chloride should do the trick and shouldn't be that hard to find.

Edit:

I did some more poking around for you.

According to http://www.scientificpolymer.com

your best bets are: Acetone, benzene, chloroform, MEK, THF

According to Polymer Handbook, 4th ed:

Try: Acetone, benzene, chloroform, MEK, THF, chlorobenzene,
chloroform, xylene, cyclohexanone, methylene chloride, formic acid

So it looks like acetone is one of the best already. I would try gasoline and/or MEK next depending on which you can get your hands on faster.

Giving it some more thought, acetone should be disolving the acrylic fine. It could be that you don't have enough agitation to lift the pigments that are left over from the crevices. Maybe instead of switching solvent you should add some occasional vibration during the soak period.

WaaaaghLord wrote:its just brake fluid isnt it? Castrol GTX i think is the same stuff...

No, it isn't.

That said, I *dare* you to put that into your car and see what happens...

Just an FYI (I didn't see that anyone referenced this yet) One of our own members wrote an article regarding Castrol Super Clean (Now called just Super Clean) here...

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

Varsal (paint thinner), cheap and gets the job done. I went threw a change in painting scheme half way threw my Warriors of Chaso army. This stuff does it, very little scrubbing required and it is not gonna damage the models, just the paint.

Varsal (paint thinner), cheap and gets the job done. I went threw a change in painting scheme half way threw my Warriors of Chaso army. This stuff does it, very little scrubbing required and it is not gonna damage the models, just the paint.

@JHDD: I suggested MEK and Toluene as the OP was after "...most effective/powerful stuff ...".

Sure, they're really nasty and you don't want to get any in your eyes or on your skin (they will blind you - and probably give you cancer), but they are two of the most powerful paint strippers you will ever find.

Toluene should be VERY hard to get in the EU (it's the reason that Dullcote had to be reformatted - solvent carrier is toluene) due to health regs. MEK likewise, as it IS a carcinogen that can be absorbed through the skin and the fumes don't do your lungs any favours either.

Bear in mind, that you do not EVER want to use these on styrene OR resin models, as they will both dissolve them (plastics) into a shapeless goo and turn resin 'spongey' at best - at worst, it'll do the goo trick.

Like I said, I use brake fluid. Full strength. I use a big glass jar about half full - maybe a litre of the stuff). They soak for a day unless it's an enamel, in which case it's for as long as needed (up to a week with agitation once a day).

They are removed from their bath with tongs and placed into the ultrasonic cleaner bath. None of my metal pieces have needed scrubbing with a brush yet.

There is almost always bits of paint left in the recesses. Ive found brass bristled wire brushes work extremely well at getting into those recesses & loosening the paint. $4 for a 3 pack at local DIY. A quick swish in lacquer thinner removes the loosened particles. Ive found that steel wire brushes scratch the model severely while the plastic bristled brushes tend to soften & melt after a short period of use. Brass bristled brushes are soft enough not to scratch the metal but will buff the surface if too much pressure or elbow grease is applied
Cheers
Terrain Dave

I used ZipStrip once or twice, really did a good job, but it'll do the same on your skin...

aircraft remover

http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=82&prodid=136

After reading this, I ran out and bought some Castrol SuperClean from Walmat. $8.78 (US Dollars)... I also grabbed a cheap toothbrush to help... $2.50USD...

I am absolutely AMAZED at how well this stuff work. I gave it a test run on an an older Librarian model... Let it stew overnight. Thoroughly impressed.

Here are the pics.

This is the stuff you want.


Rest well Brother-Marine, if this process works, you will have new life tomorrow.


The next day... he's not a pile of goo - so that's a great start.



Just bringing him up the stairs, and some of the paint rubbed off! Amazing!


Rubbed some more off with just my thumb! Wow!


After just a few strokes with the toothbrush, the results are evident...


The results speak for themselves.


Here's two pics - Before and After - of the company champion I stripped today...





This stuff is A-MA-ZING! Use it... I used nail polish remover before this..ugh... Don't mess with anything else - for 8 bucks, you can NOT go wrong!
I'm a convert! Superclean all the way!

NOT FOR EATING!!!

As with other stripping agents, use a sealed container, and wear gloves.

Also, you probably have a used toothbrush available - no need buying a new one!

Dettol. Look it up.