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I agree with Dronze on many points.

I have some hand motricity problems which first manifested quite years ago, the first one, affecting my motricity-coordination got solved with a lot of re-education work. The second is neural and will never be solved, it makes my hands shaking with more or less intensity, and even if it's surely far less hard to deal with than your problem, it really is a when I paint models.

When I discovered dry-brushing, it was quite a revelation and I worked it for years, trying different variants of dry-brushing, using long brushes, medium brushes, short brushes and even very short brushes, and various paint textures.
Of course it's not adapted to every surface but you can get really really good results if you combine it to washes.

The model choice is important. I obtained the best results whith non-human models (mostly Wolfens and Goblins and Mid-nor dwarves from the Confrontation range) Tyranids are a good choice(I'm quite proud of my Tyrant) but Orks, Kroots and Daemons are fine too!

When painting details I usually put the model into an artisanal support and hold my painting hand's wrist with my free hand, I lose motricity as i can only paint under a single angle and I have to change the model position several times, but I gain stability.

The last point is patience, but I've got no advice to give on this one

What kinds of techniques did you use in the past? Might help to know your past methods to help develop or redefine new ones.

Also, how bad is the MS? Does it happen sporadically? Are there times during the day when it is at its worse? Times when it doesn't effect you? Basically, does it follow any type of pattern?

Thank you everyone thats posted so far, I appreciate the help and advice.

So, I learned to dry brush somewhere around a year after 3rd edition first came out. After that it seemed so cool I dry brushed everything I could for a while. Then I started to find its limits, and as I learned other techniques it slipped farther to the bottom of my tool box. Now that there are several excellent washes available- Ive hardly been using it except to highlight certain textures like fur.

Ive always been sort of impatient, and like getting quick results- so Ive always liked more efficient techniques. Ive used an air brush for almost 9 years, most of that was just to base coat figs in colors other than white/grey/black. But in the last year I picked up an Iwata knock-off and started doing more detailed work(but the problems flared up right as I was getting into it).

For detail work- I held the mini in one hand and the brush in hte other. Rotated the fig around as needed to put the color where needed- then on to the next fig. Usually Id do 5 or 10 like this before I'd do go back and do any need clean up. That whole bit has pretty much gone right out the window.

Who knows, maybe all this will make me slow down and I can focus on quality over the quantity of figs painted. Since I cant work right now I guess I can spend a week on a fig without feeling rushed

Ive got a friend with MS, and he had to just relearn how to do everything (as far as painting goes) It sucks, but I think you may just have to slow down as much as possible (have fun with the horde armies) and basically rethink how you paint. Otherwise your just going to keep running into the same problems. I know it sucks, and granted people that get things like this, dont want to admit it, but you just cant do somethings anymore. So the only way to get back in the painting chair, is to learn how to use your problem to your benefit.
Sorry to hear about your bad news too, and honestly I was wondering what happened to ya

Your hands may be too shaky for this technique, but I'm prone to very shaky hands myself. (although not for any medical reason)

First, firmly plant the elbow of the arm that's holding the model onto the table, holding the mini in your fingers, with the hand palm-up.

Next, pick your brush up in your painting/writing hand, palm-down.

Place the bottoms of your palms (I mean your thumb/wrist area) together, and hold them there with as much pressure as is comfortable. Your hands should be able to line up if you're not holding anything.

There should be 3~4 inches of space between your hands (depending on size) at the part of your palm that joins your fingers. This should make *about* a 75 degree angle from wrist to finger-base.

This is AMAZING for stability, my painting went from average to contest winning in a few months when I discovered this. I would also suggest people with shaky hands thin their paint a little extra.

Now, as I saw, my hand-shaking isn't medical, so YMMV, but I hope it helps you as much as it helped me.



*EDIT*

Space marine terminator I painted using this technique. I should have thinned the highlights more, but this is what someone with chronic lifelong hand shaking can do with this stabilising trick.

Ktulhut, I'll have to try that, the twitchy/shakiness doesnt just limit itself to my hands so this might not work all the time. But its something that can help

Sounds like your best bet, until you learn to deal with the MS, is to take things slowly and experiment. Maybe work with lighter colors so you can cover up mistakes easier.